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How
- To
CG Cell Art
INTRODUCTION
Contest Submission section is about
sequential manga, things to prepare for a
magazine submission or contest.
Here, I show the steps to the photoshop cel work
to your right. (Click on image for full size)
SOFTWARE SUGGESTION
Photoshop 4.0+ or above.
IMAGE SIZE
Up to you.
MY CASE
My files are bigger, since I would like to output
them later on in print, for my next book.
I don't like the soft pastel, airbrushed look.
The cel format with its crisp-cut, sharp edges suits
me very well.
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1
LINEART
(Click on image for full size)
First, I flip through my sketchbook, and find a rough
sketch I like to finalize. It's too ugly to put here, so
I put it on another link. ROUGH
SKETCH
My lineart is inked on 11"x14" marker layout.
That way, you can trace ove the rough sketch beneath
it.
Cel works are inked with quil pens.
I ink mine with quil pens. The G-pen nib for main lines
and maru-pen nib for fine details.
Roting and technical pen lines are too mechanical and
even. If you don't want your artwork to look like it's done by an engineer,
you should use quil pens.
PHOTOSHOP
TIPS
1) Scan the image in.
2) To isolate the black lines, utilize the CHANNELS palette.
3) Prepare the image by: IMAGE>ADJUST>BRIGHTNESS/CONTRAST.
Make sure the black is really dark.
4) Open CHANNELS palette.
5) Copy the CHANNELS b/w layer.
6) Go back to LAYERS palette.
7) Paste the channel layer. |
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2
COLORING
Due to the need to conserve disk space, I've deleted
several intermediary steps.
The pic to your right, is the basic deal of filling
in the basic colors. You can either do this with the bucket tool or whatever
is convenient.
INDIGO ORIGAMI
PATTERN
(selected to describe the character)
I scanned a sheet of origami paper.
Hand-pasted it to follow the folds of the cape.
(It's not a cape, it's an outer kimono)
In Photoshop, you can utilize the EDIT>DEFINE PATTERN
feature.
1) Scan your favorite pattern
2) Select an area of your pattern
3) EDIT>DEFINE PATTERN
4) Now to fill in the pattern:
5) Select the area you wanna fill in.
6) EDIT>FILL>PATTERN
* Above is just a tip. Just fool around & you
will discover your own favorite shortcut.
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3
HERE'S MY LAYERS PALETTE
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4
LAYERS OF SHADING
There are basically 3 color skemes in a cel parinting.
Base Color
Shadow
Highlight
Glare Highlight (white)
LAYERS
- MULTIPLY FEATURE
All my shadows & base color are the same color.
The LAYERS palette, each layer can be set to MULTIPLY,
LIGHTEN, DARKERN... the layer beneath it.
This is common stuff to Photoshop users.
A screen shot of my LAYERS palette is provided above.
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5
THE CHARACTER
Name: "Searcher in the Snow"
Nickname: Snowdrop, Dragon Tears
Personality: elusive, shy
Feature: always dragging
around a security blanket
The costuming should reflect the character.
But I'm only folling around here, so...
Basing on the gesture, it's a gentle, shy character ^0^
THE GESTURE
I am big on gestures.
I like the way the hand is tucked in, like in a warm
muffler. |
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6
FINISHED LAYERS
The file size, at this point, with all the layers
is 13.0 MB. Too big. I then flattern all finished layers.
Start the hair on a fresh, new ayer.
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7
HAIR TREATMENT
The hair treatment takes again, 3 layers, to color,
shadow, highlight the hair.
The light source is to the left & slightly behind
the character.
I want the character's face, more or less in shadows,
to mystify this shy, elusive character.
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8
THE FINISHED PRODUCT
(Click on the image for full size)
THE HIGHLIGHT
The last step is to add the highlights.
Highlights make a pic sparkle
Relieves the density of a pic
Provides visual breathing space
COMPARE
THE ONE BEFORE
Compared with the image before this one,
doesn't this one just come alive? |
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9
THE BACKGROUND
For character design, I prefer a white backgound,
since you can see the flow of lines, shapes better.
But for display purposes,
a background helps a pic stand out, and also to
further define a character's setting.
Below is my LAYERS pallette for this pic.

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10
THE COMPLETION
So here it is, the completed image.
Aren't you exhausted yet?
I know I am, when I finished this pic.
The character is bombarded by powdery snow, and with
here comes a lift of wind, blowing a cloud of snow dust behind the character.
^0^ It's so Kung-Fu-ish.
Anyway, I liked this pic without the background.
I can't seem to find the perfect background for this.
And where is the feet?
I've reworked this pic WITH THE FEET ON.
See below. |
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Art Show
Project
THE HAND-PAINTED
VERSION
This one is sold at SHOUJOCON 2000.
I've reworked the cape element into a dragon motif
to match the year of the Dragon.
This is rather a hurried job.
Since oh no, no, no, I've used MARKERS.
I never use MARKERS, for its obvious inferior quality.
But I was in a rush, so hum..hum...
The actual original looks much better than this lousy
scan. Due to the transparency of markers, it tends to look blotchy.
All the work goes into the ragon tattoo in the cape. It's hand-stippled
with .18mm Rotring.
MATERIALS
11" x 14" bristol vellum paper
airbrush
acrylic
(markers) Forgive me.
white, black ink
white gouache for sprinkles
This pic looks better when it's big.
(Open the image for full size) |
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My Comments
AFTERWARD
A hand-worked artwork will always surpass that of
Photoshop work.
A finely-yielded brush can add touches (mm of a pixel),
such as no wacom tablet can.
I find that I cannot whip fine strands of hair with
my wacom pen.
Still, Photoshop offer a quick, economical way to
execute a drawing.
(Save all these $$$ money on cel paint) ^0^
Unfortunately though, it's not gallery material.
In hand-painted originals, the subtle layering of
paint, that builds up thickness, and the
fact that hand-painted ones are one-of-a-kind...the
contrast between textures.
Even a silkscreen is more beautiful than computer-generated
graphic.
More tactile, I should say.
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