This is the Hermit Info Page
Picking out a Hermit:
You will definately want to procure your Hermit from a pet shop. They should have a variety for you to choose from. Don't get ones that are too big. That means that they are old. Older crabs may not adjust to the environmental change so well. The shell that they live in should be no more than 3 or 4 inches long (dependig on the shell). Inspect the crabs. You'll want to get one that has all 10 appendages, 2 eyes, etc. Though lost limbs will eventually grow back, you might as well start off with one that is in full health. Observe the potential crabs. I suggest getting the most active crabs. Inactivity could mean a sickly crab. NOTE: most of the crabs will be inactive anyway because crabs are nocturnal (i.e. inactive during the day). You should also get more than one, because crabs live in groups in the wild. I suggest at least three.
Accesories:
Now that you have the Hermits, what do you get to go with them? First let's start out with habitat.
The best environment for your crabs is in an aquarium. Depending on how many crabs you have dictates the size of the aquarium. Up to about 10 can live in a 10 gallon aquarium, about 1 gallon per crab.
Sand or gravel is required to go in the aquarium. Crabs like to bury themselvs, so you'll want a substrate that is fine enough to do this. Don't get wood shavings because that will dry the crabs out. Some pet stores have "bone sand" which is good for your crabs in that it helps them recive calcium, but it is bad for you in that it is a LOT more expensive than regular sand. I suggest getting regular sand, and supplementing thier diet in other ways. Food will be discussed later.
I also have a humidity and temperature gague in the aquarium. The temperature should be arount 70-85 F degrees. The absolute humidity should be at least 50-60, or relative humidity at 76-82%..
You will also need a lid for the aquarium. This serves two purposes: 1. It keeps heat and moisture in the aquarium. 2. It keeps the crabs in the aquariums. Hermit crabs are crafty, and they will escape on you given the chance. I once came home to find one of mine crawling down the hallway.
You will need rocks, limbs, and other things on which your crabs can play. In the wild, many live in trees. They also like to snack on soft wood. Choya wood is ideal because it has lots of little holes for them to crawl around on. I also have a metal wire screen that they love climbing on. Crabs need excercise too.
Lets not forget extra shells. Crabs are constantly switching shells. The usually change when they molt, but they will also change for the heck of it.
Food and Water:
Hermit crabs are not picky eaters. In the wild, they are scavengers. I would not, however, suggest giving them table scraps. Pet stores will have hermit crab food, especially designed for thier dietary needs. This is the best food, but they also need variety. Give them the store food, and then when you change the food, give them peanut butter, or raisins, apples, lettuce, or anything else you think they'd like. Sometimes I give mine fish food. Remember: variety is the spice of life.
The food should be changed out at least once a week, depending on the perishability of the food. Lettuce, after 2 days, fresh fruit after 3 or 4, etc. Use your judgement. If it looks like it is spoiling, remove it.
Another interesting thing to do that also helps build a relationship with your crab is hand feeding them. I have heard that if you talk to them as you hand feed them, they will associate food and your voice. They will actually come to you if you call them. Hold the crab by its shell so that he can't pinch you easily. Next take the food (raisins, grapes, prunes, and other soft fruit is best) so that the can pinch it. They will then begin to eat the food. It is very easy and is a great tool for bringing you and your crab closer together.
Water is very important for the crabs. Not only do they need it to drink, but also to moisten their gills. Though they do not like a sloppy wet environment, the aquarium must be moist. Evaporation from the water dish should be ample to maintain the humidity level, but periodical misting your crabs wouldn't be a bad idea either. Be sure to mist them outside the tank. This prevents excess water in their home and therfore reduces the chance of bacteria growth. Some recomend usisng an oyster shell for a water dish. This adds calcium to the crab's diet. Personally, I add crushed cuttlebone to thier food in order to suppliment ther calcium needs. Cuttlebone can be found in the bird section of any pet store.
Molting:
This can be a very traumatic experience for your crab. This is also the time when many Hermit deaths take place. The hard exoskeleton doesn't grow with the crab, so periodically, he must shed his skin. Signs of an upcoming molt include frequently burying himself in the sand, inactivity, and cloudy looking eyes. A molting crab needs to be seperated from other crabs because they are soft and vulnerable.
At first it will appear that the crab has died, but it is just the exoskeleton. Be sure to keep the shed skin because the crab will eat it and receive the extra calcium. After a week of two, the exoskeleton will have grown back and it will be safe for your crab to re-join the group.
Some experts suggest a bath with Stress Coat added to it as a preventative measure. I bathe my crabs once a week in tepid water. This is supposed to help moisturize the gills and is said to ease the trauma of molting. Don't over-bathe, because that can be unhealthy..
Links:
Other Hermit Pages with valuable tips:
The Hermit Crab Care Page
Scott's Hermit Crab Page
Hermitworld
Florida Marine Research
FMR is the expert when it comes to hermit crabs. They also have an e-mail address for your questions, and a toll-free number (US): 1 (800) 535-2722. If you have an emergency, call them.