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Traveling to the North

Current Coimbra Weather

For the most part, road conditions in Portugal have greatly improved, minor roads are often poor and winding with unpredictable surfaces. But they are also building a number of new turnpikes known as "Auto-estradas" and a new bridge over the river Tagus. I've driven thousands of miles around a good part of Portugal and I've never had any problem with the roads.

If you are driving north from Lisbon to Coimbra (which has one of the oldest Universities in Europe), Porto and further, use the A1 super highway from Lisbon. It's a toll road, and it is as good as or not better than most U.S. turnpikes. I found that it was very easy to get on out of Lisbon. Then it is pretty much clear sailing all the way. Also I found that the traffic was very light, but most of the driving that I did on the superhighways was during the week days.

Great Deals on Rentals

The speed limit is 75MPH or 120km/h (on the Auto-estradas), but at that speed everybody will pass you. I chose 90MPH and they still passed but it did not seem as bad. The highway was very well marked as to directions. The rest stops are plentiful and very well kept. They offer everything from a full course meal to a sandwich, and some offer motel style accommodations.

I took A1 north a number of times. The first time, we went to Coimbra and the second time to Porto. I did not have any problem finding the exit off the highway to the town, but that was when the fun began.

Driving in most Portuguese towns can be challenging. You should have very explicit directions. The town maps that I had were not very good. What really gets you into trouble is that you will be going down a street and all of a sudden the street goes one way. After a few of these turns, you have completely lost your sense of direction and are hopelessly lost.

I also noticed that there were plenty of new roads being built all over Portugal. In my travels below I will mention some of the new roads that I found. I have driven over 14,000 km in Portugal and have never had any trouble. Just take your time and use some comment sense and you will be perfectly alright. Just don't panic, the end of the world is not coming yet.

However, if you wish not to drive, then you might consider using a professional guide with a car, such as Peter Feijão at Tel: 011 351 21 4531001 or E-mail him for more information. I have met Peter and I recommend him highly.

Coimbra

After a drive of less than two hours from Lisbon, we arrived at the turn off for the town of Coimbra. Then the fun began. I knew that I was looking for the Sol Coimbra hotel, but there didn't seem to be any signs indicating the way. It took me almost two hours driving around the circle in Coimbra before I located the hotel. Amazing after I found it, it was easy. It just wasn't very intuitive on which road to take out of the circle.

It was just up the hill past the Coimbra University Medical Center and then staying to the right put us right in front of the hotel. The Sol Coimbra is a new hotel and is extremely modern and clean.

Entrance to Coimbra Medical Center

After we checked in to the hotel, we asked the hotel clerk where was a good place to eat that night. She suggested eating at the Ze Manel dos Ossos restaurant that is located down in the city. "Ossos", which means bones, is a very unique place to eat. It is a very small restaurant with about six or seven tables. You sit on small wooden stools around the table. On the wall are letters and notices from past and present students and professors at the University. The food was unique but very good. My wife had a mountain of grilled fish (too many to count). I had a crock of Pork pieces and beans. Both meals were very good. I noticed that before we left, there was a long line of people waiting to get tables.

One day we were driving around and I saw an interesting looking building. We pulled in and parked the car. I saw a young man standing by the building and went over and asked where we were. He stated that we were at the Seminary (Seminário Maior de Coimbra) and that he was a first year seminary student. He further stated that he and his classmates were waiting for the professor to show up. He called his fellow students out of the building and we took a group photo.

Seminário Major de Coimbra

When the professor showed up, he asked for permission to take us on a tour of the facility. The professor gave his permission and we had a personal tour of the Seminary. We saw the study rooms, the chapel and enjoyed a spectacular view of the Mondego River from the terrace.

Mondego River looking South

Coimbra is also the home of Coimbra University, one of the oldest in Europe, founded in Lisbon in 1290 and then transferred to Coimbra in 1537. The University buildings are situated on the top of a hill, which overlooks the city. It is well worth a visit. You enter the old part of the University through an Iron Gate. Inside the gate is the enormous University Patio, with a large statute of João III. Beside the gate, to the left when entering, you will see the long low palace wing. The University Library is in the far-left corner and is well worth taking the tours that are provided. It is fascinating, very large and very old. If you're here in the end of April or beginning of May make it a point to see the students singing Fado and burning their ribbons at the end of the school year.

The University's Eighteen-century clock stands in the right hand corner of the courtyard, domineering the skyline. Next to it is a double staircase leading to other parts of the University.

Coimbra University Clock tower

Some of the students still wear their black suits and capes, pinned with a colorful ribbon indicating the student's course of study. There are also tears on their capes, which indicate the student's romantic conquests.

Coimbra University Steps

There are also many things to see in the city. The Baixa is the part of the city down by the river. It is full of narrow streets and crowded shops, banks, churches, cafés, hotels and walks to stroll along the Mondego rivers' banks.

Let's visit Coimbra University

For additional information about the University and the city of Coimbra visit the following site.

More information about the city of Coimbra

Even though the following site is in Portuguese, you should visit it just to see the photographs and experience the beauty of the town of Coimbra.

River Mondego in Coimbra

Let's visit the city of Coimbra (in Portuguese but good pictures)

Some of Coimbra Hotels listed in the Hotel Guide 

BUÇACO

About 20 Km. north of Coimbra there is a secluded forest that was tended by monks for over a 1,000 years and where there is a romantic summer place that was built by a king. This has been woven into a 2 square mile national park atop the northern most peak of the Serra do Buçaco. In this secluded forest the monks established contemplative walks, chapels, and trees. These trees were brought back by Portuguese explorers from all parts of the world. There are now some 400 native tree varieties and 300 exotic ones, from eucalyptus and oaks to sequoias and evergreen thujas.  

Palácio do Bussaco

In 1888, King Carlos commissioned Lugigi Manini to build a summer palace and hunting lodge in the midst of this forest. The kings summer place has now been turned into one of the finest hotels in Portugal, the Palácio do Bussaco. Even if you are not staying here a walk anywhere in Buçaco is most enjoyable. There are ample parking areas from which you may park and take this stroll through the wonderful greenery and moss.

Many of its rooms open onto terraces from which you can watch the stars over the deep green forest. It's elegant charm and its wonderful setting make it a very attractive place to stay. You will marvel at the Azulejos in the main hall featuring scenes from the Battle of Buçaco, the decisive battle that halted the French march on Coimbra. The large comfortable sitting room and bar and the beautiful dinning area.

 Palace Hotel do Buçaco - rates, availability and reservations   

Springs in the Buçaco Gardens

The waters from springs above cascade down 144 stone steps into a pool.

MEALHADA

If your wondering where to get off A1 for Buçaco its at Mealhada. However this town should not be missed either. This small town is in the heart of a region famous for its sucking pig, leitão. It was 25th April, the holiday commemorating the 1974 Revolution and we had driven down to the town to enjoy any festivities. We found a seat in the Cafe in the center of town and one of the first things that we noticed was people paying homage to the soldiers killed in the unpopular colonial wars.

It was very moving to see the people showing their respect for these men. We also noticed a large stage being set up for the folk dancers who had started arriving.

The various folk dance groups performed their dancing and singing and all in all it was a very pleasant and relaxing day.

VISEU

One day during our stay in Coimbra, we decided to explore the local countryside. Our Portuguese travel agent came from this area and he recommended driving to Viseu. He also gave us the name of a restaurant that he and his family had eaten in, the Villa Nancy, which is located on the road to Viseu.

Praça do Rossio

It only took about an hour to drive to Viseu. It is a very scenic drive as the road climbs through the mountains toward this fresh-faced country town. It was very pleasant to sit in the tree-lined main square. There is also a beautiful tiled "Azulejos" wall just opposite the square. If you walk up and down some of the connecting streets, there is plenty to see in this small pleasant town.

Tiled wall in Viseu

On the way back to Coimbra, we stopped for dinner at the Villa Nancy. It turns out that the owner lived in New York City for a while and the Villa was named after his daughter. We didn't need a menu. The waiter brought out a tray of fresh fish for my wife so she could pick what she wanted. For me, they brought out a whole side of beef so that I could select my steak. We had a very nice meal and stuffed we headed back to the hotel.

More information about the city of Viseu

Some of Viseu Hotels listed in the Hotel Guide 

CONDEXIA

Somewhere during my travels, I got to really like quite small towns. Condexia was one of them. We stayed in the Santa Cristina Pousada. It's within walking distance of the center of the town and as a few friends had told us its a very restful place.

The peacefulness of this location plus the friendly nature of the townspeople made this a most enjoyable rest.

Condexia on the other hand it also in a very convenient location to see other places in this section of Portugal. 

Montemor O Velho

It is only 6 km or so from Coimbra, 2 km from the old Roman ruins at Conimbriga and a short pleasant drive to Figueira Da Foz and you can even drive through Montemor O Velho on the way.

One afternoon we took a drive over to Conimbriga, where they have the largest and most extensively excavated Roman site in Portugal. It is quite a site to behold. As you read the descriptions on the ruins its hard to believe that people lived here in 2nd century BC and that in 25 BC it became a substantial town in the Roman world. You are amazed by the structures that they built and some of the utensils that they produced.

Roman Gardens and Temple

This is the Casa das Fontes dating from the first half of the second century. It is under a protective cover and it is being restored so that you can see the Roman taste for good living. 

Just outside the ruins is a informative museum that explains the history and the layout of the site. There is also a restaurant and a picnic site available.

I had been traveling for almost a month and my hair plus the crude beard that I was attempting to grow was getting long. I found a barber shop on the square in Condeixa and decided to get a trim. I went into the shop and in my most fluent Portuguese asked for a trim. The kindly barber had me take a seat in the chair.

I looked in the mirror. He stood behind me. The look on his face was that he was Michelangelo and he had been commissioned by the Pope to paint his finest masterpiece. Then, he came at me with clippers, scissors and combs. I could barely see as the hair fell from my head. Then he stopped stood back - the look on his face was pure rapture, the determination of a true master - then he came at me again. I wondered what had gone wrong. Had I slurred - trim - did I use the wrong verb? Finally it was over almost as quick as it had begun. I looked up not really wanting to see my bald head. I was pleasantly surprised. It looked pretty good. A little shorter than usual but not bad. Then he leaned me back in the chair. I heard the razor being sharpened on the strap. A few deft stokes here and there and it was done.

Well we both smiled as he proudly showed me his masterpiece. Not bad at all. The best was yet to come. The cost of this work of art was 3 dollars US.

Figueira Da Foz

Figueira da Foz is one of the most popular resorts in Portugal. Its appeal is a two-mile long beaches that is one of the prettiest in  Europe. It also provides opportunities for surfing and wind surfing

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Figueira da Foz beaches

I was totally amazed by the beauty of this town. Wide open expanses of beaches on beaches it went on for miles and more was under construction. 

The village is prosperous and attractive, a casino housed in a former Palace opens in the afternoon, two miles away is the unspoiled fishing village of Buarcos.

Best of all it is but a short drive, about 45km, from Coimbra. Take route 111, which runs along the Mondego River and you are in for the treat of your life.

Let's visit the city of Figueira Da Foz (in Portuguese but good pictures)

Some of Figueira Da Foz Hotels listed in the Hotel Guide 

Pequeno Portugal em Coimbra

Creation Date: 04 Dec 1995
Last Updated: 12 Feb 2005
Copyright © 1995-2005 Thomas J. Sullivan MA

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