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Alentejo - Eastern
For sometime, I had been fascinated by the road that I saw on the map that started in the Algarve and worked its way up the Portuguese Spanish border.
Maybe it was a suppressed desire to go where "No Tour Bus has Ever Gone" (doubt that will ever happen) or just a curiosity to see this another part of the county.
Alentejo Countryside
We left Tavira and proceeded East along IP 1 toward the Spanish border. As I saw the approaching bridge going into Spain, I began to look for N 122.
Scenery along the Rio Guadiana
We drove north along N 122 admiring the beautiful country side and at times catching site of the Rio Guadiana which at this point forms the border with Spain. The next big town on our list was Mértola.
Road Leaving Mertola
MÉRTOLA
This is a pretty whitewashed town that has great historical origins dating back to the Phoenicians. The town sits over the right bank of the Guadiana river. Mértola has three important museum site as a result of the intense archeological activity there. The town was alive with activity and I had to really look for a parking space.
We parked for a short while to enjoy the beauty of this setting had a cup of coffee and found route 265 and were on our way to Serpa.
Pousada São Gens
We planned to spend three days in Serpa and had decided to stay at the São Gens Pousada that is situated just outside the main part of town.
SERPA
Old wall in Serpa
Serpa is a lovely small town. It has pleasant streets and squares. Its houses and stores sparkle with the brilliance of their whitewash and the streets are so clean that you can almost eat off them. Yet as you see the arched aqueduct and the fortress walls you know that in a past time many brave warriors defended this town from occupation.
Serpa had a quality about it that in a short time there you become very comfortable. You begin to see people that you had seen the day before and some of them even recognized you. We also found two very nice and reasonable restaurants to dine in. I personally would recommend both.
The first was O Gato - Rua do Calvário, No 21 - SERPA Tel : 284 544 908 and the second one where I had some delicious Black Pork was Molha O Bico - Rua Quente, 1 SERPA Tel: 284 549 264.
On another vist to Serpa we found a new wonderful restaurant. This restaurant not only has great food but it also has two pleasant owners who we had the pleasure of spending two enjoyable nights with. Its called A Tradição - Alameda Abade Correia da Serra, 14 SERPA Tel:284 548 051. Good food, great Owners and an excellent Chief.
Barragem do Alqueva
For a number of years, I had been reading about a new dam that was being built on the Guadiana River. It is called Barragem do Alqueva and it is a very imposing site. Behind it sits a large man made lake that extends for miles.
Moura
Then it became time to move on to Elvas. I chose to go a slightly round about route. First I went to Moura and then continued on to Mourão, no not a typo, then from Mourão preceded westward to Reguengos de Monsaraz. Then turning north through Redondo, Vila Vicosa reaching N 4 at Borba and then on N 4 into Elvas.
Barrancos
Around the Vila Vicosa area I noticed miles and miles of Marble being minned. I was told by a friend that Portugal is the world's second largest exporter of Marble. The marble from the Borba area is white and pink, while the quarries at Viana do Alentejo yield a green stone.
ELVAS
We had been in Elvas before but only for a few hours. I had decided to stay at the Santa Luzia Pousada. This Pousada has quite a lot of history behind it. It was the first Pousada opened up by the Portuguese Government in 1942. There is also another story that I heard that Prime Minister Salazar met here with General Franco of Spain to discuss the situation of their countries during World War II. I also heard from a more reliable source that Prime Minister Salazar did spend some of his vacations at a farm in the Alentejo located not far from here.
We would use this location as a base in exploring this section of the country. The manager and his staff made this stay a very pleasant experience.
Well I have stated a number of times what makes Portugal so special in my mind is the people. One of the best ways to see this is when you can see their hearts. You do that by taking part in one of their festivities. We were very privileged in being able to do just that. Some friends from Lisbon invited us into his wife's home village for the Palm Sunday services.
VILA BOIM
Vila Boim is a little village about 15 km west of Elvas. We arrived there as most of the village was going into the church with their rosemary branches for the morning Palm Sunday Services. After the service was over the entire congregation, including us, formed a procession to march to the other church in the village.
We came back later in the day for the Stations of the Cross ceremony which began at 17:00.
Veronica joins the procession
The procession starting forming in front of the church. The village band arrived and the town preceded as a group to the first station. The stations were something that comes directly from the heart of the people. The stations are in what you could call a locked areas along the streets of the town. Different groups have the responsibility for maintaining and decorating their station. Each group tries very hard to have the best station. Briefly the station consists of a portrait of the station, an altar decorated with flowers, candles and beautiful linen. On the ground in front of the altar is a beautiful design made out of flower petals.
One of the stations of the cross
This day will always be a very fond memory because you seldom see or experience such faith. If you care to experience some of these please view the picture strip provided. Click on the small thumbnail to view a bigger picture.
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Between services, we were also treated to a wonderful lunch. Because of its design I could call it the inside out restaurant. The meal was superb and if you are in the area you should definitely try it. Restaurante A Maria - Rua João de Deus, 12 - ALANDROAL Tel: 268 431 143.
My friend told me that even though the church doesn't condone it, most of the rosemary branches would show up in a farm field the next day as an offering for a good crop.
A cross in the field the next day
Well the next day just driving around guess what we saw. It was really raining as you can see.
VILA VIÇOSA
This site was chosen in the 15th Century as the seat of the dukes of Bragança. Here they built their vast Paço Ducal. It is an imposing building with a Renaissance façade.
This became their favorite residence. The long suite of first floor rooms is very splendid and you can just sense the history that unfolded in these rooms. There are also the more intimate rooms of King Carlos and his wife and they are much as he left them the day before he was assassinated in 1908.
The formal gardens are enclosed by the palace walls but they may be viewed from the palace windows as you tour the grounds.
We have stayed at the Pousada de D. João IV in Vila Viçosa and it is a beautiful place to stay. Just about everything in the Pousada is breathtaking.
D. João IV
There is much more to see in this area. Much of it I have already seen and it is documented elsewhere in these pages. Just to remind you of a few are Estremoz, Évora, Beja and a really must see the beautiful medieval village of Monsaraz with its castle, walls and fortifications.
Monsaraz
You may also obtain information from Manor Houses of Portugal by completing the form on any page of their site.
Serpa's Nossa Senhora de Guadalupe
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Creation Date: 20 May 2000
Last update: 14 Feb 2005
Copyright © 1995-2005 Thomas J. Sullivan MA
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