It was 8:30 am, January 17th, 1998 in Ocala, Florida.  Preparations were being made to begin the conformation show to end all conformation shows…the 1998 American Bulldog Association National Championship.  The sun was beating down on the large field adjacent to the show site where I had taken Toro to work off some of his excessive "puppy" energy.  Toro was, at only thirteen months of age, just a few points shy of his Championship.  I couldn't afford to have him enter that show ring "full steam"!  I pulled Toro's beloved ball out of my pocket and teased him with it.  He danced around me barking and jumping in his delight at the onset of the game that he lived and breathed for--BALL!!  I threw that ball forward with all my might and Toro took off after it like a bullet, returning it to me with equal speed.  As he approached me, I gave him a command.  "Aus", I called and as Toro promptly dropped the ball from his mouth, I flung the next ball behind me.  And so it went, me and my dog, my partner, out on that steamy field.  Me, throwing and Toro retrieving, his speed, determination and focus a tangible indication of the seriousness with which he "played" the game.  Toro, barking and dancing around me, demonstrating to the world his delight and love for the ball.  But the world didn't matter to Toro, only the game.
There were, however, two people at the show that I was looking forward to seeing.  Two people that I had met several times before, when Toro was just a young pup.  Two people who, in my opinion, had done more for the American Bulldog Breed, specifically in Schutzhund, than anyone had before (or has since).  The first of them was Al Banuelos, the first person to title and compete to a Schutzhund III, IOP III, FH level with not one, but several American Bulldogs.  The second was Tom Riche who, along with his American Bulldog, Brody, was scheduled to become the first American Bulldog team to compete at the United Schutzhund Clubs of America (USA) Nationals.  Most Schutzhund enthusiasts have different heroes, Gary Hanrahan, Jim Hill, Sheila Booth to name a few.  But because I love American Bulldogs even more than I love Schutzhund, AND because I understood that you had two strikes against you before you even began when competing with American Bulldogs (something that these two men are helping to change), Tom and Al were my heroes.  So, you can understand my happiness when, halfway through our game, I noticed standing on the side of the field and looking our way, Al Banuelos.  I was filled with pride and excitement not only because I KNEW that Al would be impressed with what he was seeing, but because Toro's ball drive was something that I taught him!!
 Extreme ball drive is a cherished attribute in a Schutzhund dog.  A Schutzhund handler that has recognized this and has nurtured and harnessed this drive in their Schutzhund partner has, at their fingertips, a training tool whose value must never be minimized.  Ball drive is indispensable in Schutzhund training.  The ball is used as a motivator in teaching commands and a reward for a command well executed.  It is used as a release of the stress of learning and as a tool for "proofing" a command already learned.  The ball is used to build stamina and endurance in the dog and to strengthen the dog's overall physical condition.  Through learning to work a dog using a ball, a handler's skills can be honed and their relationship with their canine partner strengthened.  Above all, the ball is part of what makes the sport fun for the dog.
 This article is being written from the perspective of building ball drive in a puppy, however, these methods apply also to the more mature, but novice dog.  As your pup progresses in his learning, you will use the ball in an increasing variety of ways.  Keep in mind that although the information in this article will assist you in building your pup's ball drive, it will be up to you to go out and learn how to use it, once your dog has it.  There are far too many "ball" techniques to fit into the context of one article.  You WILL, however, definitely learn, in this article, the ABOVE-ALL-WITHOUT-A-DOUBT-BEST way to teach the "Out" command!  You can learn more about using ball drive by joining a Schutzhund Club, watching training videos and reading Schutzhund training books (See Recommended Reading at the end of the article).  Please be sure to pay special attention to training advice that is followed by a [Fundamental] notation.

BUILDING BALL DRIVE

 Some pups don't have to be taught ball drive.  Some pups don't even need to be taught retrieving skills.  The strength of these drives in a pup may be correlated to the purpose the breed was created for.  Labrador pups, for example, may learn a retrieving game very quickly.  American Bulldogs, on the other hand, were bred for bull baiting and boar hunting.  The idea was to create a dog that would catch and hold.  Because of this, an American Bulldog's natural instinct will most likely NOT be to return to you with their ball, if they even chase the ball to begin with.  It has been my experience that American Bulldog pups are more attracted to the quick jerking motions (simulating a prey object) used in rag work (the first step in building bitework skills) than they are to the smooth rolling motion of the ball.  The Kong, which has the desired zigzag motion, does not seem to appeal to an American Bulldog puppy either, perhaps due to the smooth surface of the Kong or the pup's overwhelming preference for killing the arm that threw it.  What I have been most successful with in building ball/retrieve drive in bull-headed Bulldog puppies is a simple, plastic squeaky ball.  I purchase two such balls [Fundamental 5].  I then glue a strip of fake fur or lambswool around the center of the balls (be sure to use a non-toxic glue such as Elmers).  This fur or lambswool gives the pup something to hang on to that is more pleasing to her senses than the smooth surface of the plastic ball alone.

LESSON ONE

 Let's begin.  Get the pup's attention by squeaking and tapping the ball against the floor.  When the pup goes to investigate it, snap it away and squeak and tap on another spot on the floor.  The pup should be very curious at this point and pursue the ball more energetically.  As you are teasing the pup with the ball you should be repeating, "Get the Ball!…Get the Ball!".  Make sure you use the word "Ball" and not a simple "Get it" [Fundamental 7].  It is imperative to teach the pup the word for the object that you want her to play with.  Keep repeating these actions until the pup puts her mouth around the ball.  At that point, praise the pup vigorously,  [Fundamental 4] "Good Ball!…Good Ballee Ball".  Release the ball to the pup.  There are now three scenarios that may take place:

Scenario 1.  Pup drops ball.

Scenario 2.  Pup loses interest altogether.

Scenario 3.  Pup holds ball.

For scenarios 1 and 2, repeat squeaking and tapping sequence.  Attempt to entice pup to re-engage the ball.  If the pup is just not interested, put her away and take her out later in the day to try again.  If the pup continues to re-engage and drop the ball, you have been successful.  Repeat the sequence two more times and put the pup away [Fundamental 2].  Take the pup out later in the day to play again.
For scenario 3, as pup holds the ball, take it in your hands and give the ball a Very light tug, while saying "Good Ball".  Now it's time for you to read your pup's body language.  It will be telling you one of two messages:

1. "A little game of tug-of-war with the ball would be fun."
2. "No way!  I don't like when you tug my ball!."

For message 1, keep the tugging action light and short.  Be sure to let the pup win.
Allow her to keep the ball for a moment, then pull out your second ball and give her the command, "Out" [Fundamental 6].  Begin teasing the pup with the second ball, trying to entice him to release the ball in his mouth and engage the ball you have.  Do not repeat the "Out" command.  If the pup releases the ball, praise him by saying "Good Out!".  Immediately allow the pup to engage the ball you are playing with and reward him with another tug game.  Repeat the entire sequence one more time and put the pup away.  Take him out again later to repeat the game.
For message two, use the teasing, squeaking, and tapping sequence to have the pup re-engage the ball.  This time, as she is holding the ball, tap it lightly with your finger once or twice repeating, "Good Ball, Good Ball!".  Try to work the pup up to the point that you can tug lightly on the ball.  Keep the session very short, repeating the sequence only two times.  Take the pup out later in the day to play again.
 The ideal reaction, of course, is the reaction of the pup who gripped the ball, played tug-of-war with you and released it to the "Out" command when she saw the other ball come out.  This is the reaction that you are striving for during your firs weeks of ball training.  If you achieve it during your first session, you are way ahead of the game.  Repeat the game several times a day.  Remember to repeat the sequence only three times before you take the ball away [Fundamental 12] and put the puppy up.

Lesson One Problem Solvers
 Remember that it is highly unusual for a pup to do very well the first time out, so do not be discouraged if your pup doesn't seem to be too interested or is not showing the amount of enthusiasm you wish for.

Problem One:
The puppy drops the ball as soon as you release it to him.
Solution:
Do not release the ball to the pup immediately upon her gripping.  Instead, give it a couple of light tugs first and then release it.  After releasing, as she drops the ball, give the command "Out" and take out the second ball saying, "Good Out".  Repeat the sequence two more times and put the pup away.  Take her out later in the day to play again.

Problem Two:
The puppy would rather bite my hands and arms than the ball.
Solution:
Poke a hole in the ball and thread a four to six foot length of clothesline through it.  Knot the line so that the ball won't come off.  Use the line to jig the ball around while you remain upright.  The only thing moving in front of the pup now is the ball.  If the pup insists on gripping the line, make the line go dead.  Keep the ball moving as long as the pup is chasing it and not the line.  When the pup engages the ball, give the line two light tugs and release the ball to the pup.  If the pup holds the ball, see Scenario Three above for instructions on how to proceed (putting a line on the second ball as well).  If the pup drops the ball, see Problem On for instructions on how to proceed.

Problem Three:
The pup still shows no interest in this ball.
Solution:
Don't give up too easily [Fundamental 9].  Keep trying several times a day for several days.  If the pup is still not interested, go to the store and purchase two small round stuffed animals for dogs.  Sometimes you can even get a stuffed ball.  Try using these, rather than the plastic ball.

Problem Four:
The pup STILL shows no interest.
Solution:
Soak the ball or stuffed ball in hot dog juice.  This engages the pup's food drive and may help to entice her to bite that ball!

Problem Five:
Well, that didn't work either.
Solution:
The solution to this problem is the FIRST Fundamental in building ball drive!  Put that puppy away for one month.  No toys, no bones, no siblings (canine or human), no fun.  Take the pup out four times a day and try to engage the ball play.  If the pup still refuses to play, away he goes again.  If your puppy wants to play, this is the game….nothing else.  This may seem extreme to some, however, if you are serious about training this pup and being a real competitor in your sport, you will be very glad you made this effort while your pup is young.  Believe me, it is far easier and faster to build ball drive in a young pup than it is in an adult dog.  Remember, if the puppy is expending energy and filling its need for play elsewhere, it has little use for you or your ball [Fundamental 1].

Problem Six:
The puppy plays, but becomes distracted very easily.
Solution:
Play with the pup where there are no distractions [Fundamental 8].  Keep your game very short, even if that means you are only doing one sequence of tease, release, tug.  Adhere to the solution for Problem Five.

Problem Seven:
The pup is doing well, but will not release the ball when I say, "Out" and tease him with the second ball.
Solution:
After giving the "Out" command, put your hand under the pup's chest and lift his two front legs off the ground.  Hold the pup there until he releases the ball.  As the ball comes out of his mouth, praise him vigorously, "Good Out!!" and immediately engage him with the second ball.

LESSON TWO

 By Lesson Two you will have a pup that is doing well, gripping the ball and playing a bit of tug-of-war with you afterward.  You may continue with Lesson Two techniques even if your pup is still on the stuffed toy or ball on the line.  Our goal for Lesson Two is to go from a strictly tug-of-war game to a retrieve and tug game.  Using one ball, get the pup's attention and toss the ball a very short distance.  Make sure your pup sees the ball go.  As the pup chases the ball, praise her saying, "Good Ball, Good Ball!!".  When the pup engages the ball, call her to you.  Three scenarios can happen:
Scenario 1.  Pup loses interest and walks away from the ball.
Scenario 2.  Pup runs off with the ball.
Scenario 3.  Pup returns to you with the ball.
 For scenarios 1 and 2, using a ball on a line can help.  If the pup is just walking away from the ball, it is because the ball is "dead" and no longer of interest.  Jig the ball as he gets to it to rekindle his interest.  When the pup grips the ball, or if the pup tries to run off with the ball, use the line on the ball to draw the pup to you.  Make sure, as you are drawing the pup close, you are jigging the line to keep the ball "alive".
 For scenarios 1, 2, and 3, once the pup gets to you with the ball, engage it in a light tug-of-war game.  The, give the command, "Out" and take out the next ball.  Be sure to have a long lead on the pup to prevent him from running away from you [Fundamental 3].  Repeat this sequence two more times and put the puppy away.  Take him out later in the day to play again.

Lesson Two Problem Solvers

Problem One:
The pup is doing really well chasing the ball and bringing it back to me, but just is not interested in the second ball.
Solution:
You need the pup's interest in that second ball in order to teach the puppy the "Out" command.  It would be a crime to lose this golden opportunity to teach your pup a completely stress-free "out".  It is also important for continuity of the game.  Imagine having to stop your game at each retrieve to wrestle the ball away from your dog.  You must make your puppy believe that your ball is better than his ball.  Your ball is livelier, your ball is bouncier, your ball smells better, tastes better, looks better and everybody wants it!  This is how you do it:  When you give the pup the "Out" command and she continues to play with "her" ball, immediately ignore her.  Bounce your ball, roll your ball back and forth in front of you.  Make high-pitched squeaky excited noises the whole time.  If the puppy still fails to be interested, enlist the help of a friend.  Toss the ball to and from, play rolly polly.  Make sure that you keep an eye on the pup while you are having all this "fun".  The second she releases the ball, say "Good Out!" and lightly toss your "better" ball for her.  Repeat this sequence two times and put the pup away.  Take her out again later for another game.

Problem Two:
The pup is only interested in one or two throws of the ball and then loses interest.  You are trying to repeat the prescribed number of sequences and the pup just WON'T cooperate.
Solution:
Pay attention to what your pup is telling you.  One of the most important aspects of building any behavior in your pup is to quit while you are ahead!  The old show business adage, "Leave 'em wanting more!" applies here [Fundamental 2].  Imagine someone taking your plate of food away at every meal, just before you are full.  Imagine the water on the shower is shut off every day before you have finished rinsing the shampoo out of your hair.  There are a million examples like these, but the end result is the same.  YOU WANT MORE!!  When you are presented with an opportunity to get more, it still isn't enough!  A canine's mind reacts the same way in these situations, even more so!  The canine mind, unlike ours, possesses no logic.  A dog is unable to look forward to the next game or play when that game will occur.  Even more than a mature dog who ahs developed skills in restraint and obedience, a puppy is all id (Freud, 194?).  A puppy wants, wants, and wants it now!  As soon as you tell a pup it cannot have something, it wants that object even more.  So, if your pup usually loses interest in the game after two throws, then throw the ball only once, tease her up and put her away.  In this situation, you must adhere to the solution for LESSON ONE, Problem Five [Fundamental 1].

LESSON THREE

 Your pup is chasing the ball short distance, returning to you, engaging in a quick game of tug-of-war, releasing at the "Out" command and chasing the second ball now (if not, you are not ready to progress to Lesson Three yet [Fundamental 10]0.  Whether your pup is playing with the plastic fur covered ball, the round stuffed toy or the ball on the line, it is now time to introduce the tennis ball.  It is important to remember that any time you make a tangible change in what you are doing with a pup, you may have to back track a bit [Fundamental 11].

1. The pup is playing with the round stuffed toy.
Method A:
Now that you have been successful in building drive for the game, you must substitute the stuffed toy with the fur-covered ball.  You may have to back up a bit, using techniques from Lessons One and Two to accomplish this transition.  You would not be attempting to do this if your pup hadn't built a good amount of drive for the game, so fear not!  Once the pup figures out that the game continues with the "new" toy, the transition should go smoothly.  Even so, once your pup has mastered the game (Minimally two consecutive days of 100 percent consistent success [Fundamental 10]_ with the fur covered ball, you must continue for at least a week or two before switching to the tennis ball (see Method C below).

2. The pup is playing with the fur-covered ball on the line.
Method B:
Over the course of one week, shorten the line until you can successfully play without it.  If need be, you may keep a short line, three to four inches long on the ball for life.  You will see many Schutzhund trainers who only use tennis balls with a handle!  If you need two weeks to get that line shortened, take it!  You are not in a hurry.  This is part of training, enjoy it [Fundamental 13]!  When your pup has mastered the game without the long line, proceed to Method C below.

3. The pup is playing with the plastic ball with the fur strip.
Method C:
The first thing you are going to try is simply substitute the tennis ball for the fur-wrapped ball.  See if your pup will go for it!  If not, there are two or three ways you can go about making the transition.  You can try partially wrapping the tennis ball with fur so that it is the same as the ball the pup is sued to.  Then gradually remove the fur from the tennis ball a piece at a time.  If your pup loved the ball on the line, you can add a line to the tennis ball, or you can do a combination of both.  Remember, if you need to backtrack to accomplish this transition, please do so.  The transition to a tennis ball should go smoothly.  You wouldn't even be attempting it if your pup weren't ready.

LESSON FOUR

 The goal for Lesson Four is to increase the distance that you can throw the ball while continuing to increase the pup's ball drive.  You must take the age and the visual development of your pup into consideration here.  Very young pups can only see short distances, make sure you do not throw the ball out of the sight range of your pup.  With very young pups, it is better to skim the ball along the ground rather than toss it in the air.  You will begin by working the pup up, as usual, for the ball.  Skim the ball just a little further than you have been.  As the pup returns to you with the ball, run backwards calling "Good Ball, Good Ball!".  When the pup reaches you, engage in a very brief tugging game, let go of the ball, and give the "Out" command.  As your pup releases the ball, get his attention with the second ball (don't forget to praise him for the "Out") and skim that one.  Every day, increase the distance you are skimming the ball, until you feel confident that you have reached the pup's limit of ability.  This distance will increase until your pup is an adult.  Many Schutzhund handlers play ball with their adult dogs using a tennis racket to dramatically increase the distance the ball travels and to give the dog and excellent workout.  Remember, keep your games short and leave the pup wanting more.

Lesson Four Problem Solvers

Problem One:
My pup just won't chase the ball any further.
Solution:
Again, listen to what your pup is telling you.  If he is playing well, with lots of drive, for short distances, it may be that he is just not ready to progress yet.  Lesson Four can wait.  Keep using Lessons One, Two and Three to build drive.  Try Lesson Four again in a week or so.

LESSON FIVE

 The goal for Lesson Five is to (1) wean the pup from the tug game and (2) become the center of her universe while playing.

1. What you are looking for here is a nice, fluid game of ball.
Method A:
Tug the ball lightly only after alternate retrieves.  As the days go by, decrease the frequency of retrieves that result in tugs on the ball until you are simply giving the "Out" command and throwing the next ball.  By this point, the pup should love all aspects of ball play:  chasing, retrieving and the anticipation of the next ball.  The pup may not even notice that you have stopped tugging the ball for her.  The pup will be starting her bitework on the puppy tug soon and will get her tugging satisfaction from that.  Make sure that there are no tennis balls on the field when you begin puppy tug work with your little gal, her ball drive should be so high by now that she won't want that tug if there is a ball around!

2. You will become the center of the pup's world.
Method B:
This is a subtle psychological  technique that helps to reinforce to the pup that you are the center of the game, without you there would be no game, and very good things come from you.  It is very simple.  As the pup releases the ball she just retrieved, instead of skimming the next ball in the direction from which she just came, skim it behind you.  As the pup releases that ball, skim the next ball to the right, then the left.  Now the game is over.  As the ball drive in your pup continues to increase, you may work up to two complete circles.  You will also gradually lift the height of the ball, elevating the ball from a skim to a full-blown throw.  Continue to use your body-language reading skills to end the game while your pup is still high in drive for the ball.

THE WAY TO PLAY

 Your pup should develop excellent ball drive using this method.  As I said earlier, it is quite effective for adult dogs as well.  In fact, I am currently using these techniques on my female, Topline's Sweet Cecelia, who came to me at two years of age with tons of prey drive, but no ball "savvy".  After several months of ball drive building, she is now completing one to two circles with much enthusiasm.  It is important to realize that you will need to maintain your dog's ball drive for life.  If you play the game correctly, your dog's love for the ball will never decrease.  For the life of the dog, in each game you play, you should follow the circular pattern, making yourself the center of the game.  Never stop praising your dog.  "Good Ball!", "Good Out!", "Yeah Ball!", "Hooray Ball!" should be standard vocabulary for each game and should be said with excited enthusiasm.  As the dog is returning to you with the ball, you should give this praise while running backward, stimulating the dogs desire to reach you and thereby increasing his speed.  As the dog "Outs" the ball, you should be ready with the next ball, keeping the dog moving.  The finished picture should be one of fluidity.  The bond between you and your dog will be obvious.  It should be the picture of a confident, competent trainer playing gracefully with his/her ball crazy dog!

THE FUNDAMENTALS OF BUILDING BALL DRIVE

 These fundamentals of ball-drive building are so crucial that I have put them in list form for easy reference.

Thirteen Fundamentals

1. This fundamental of building ball drive is the most important of all.  Even pups with good ball drive can benefit from this fundamental, sending their ball drive through the roof.  For one month, or longer if need be, ball is the only game you puppy plays.  When your pup is not out for a ball playing session, he is in his crate, building energy and drive for the next session.  Most pet owners don't want to take this step.  They purchased their pup for cuddling and spoiling.  Serious Schutzhund competitors, however, use this method all the time.  They are rewarded with an indispensable training tool.  Their dogs are rewarded with a lifetime of fun, playing the game they live for!

2. Always put the puppy away wanting more.  Playing until your puppy is exhausted or bored is a huge mistake and will result in a pup with mediocre ball drive at best.

3. In the early stages of building ball drive, take care never to play with your pup on a leash that is attached to the live ring of an correction collar (I never recommend giving a Schutzhund pup a collar correction until they are at least twelve months old anyway, but that's the next article).  A correction can occur through the pup, or you, accidentally stepping on the leash or the leash getting caught on or wrapped around something.  An improper correction on an impressionable puppy can mean the death of ball drive in hat pup forever!

4. Always be excited in voice and manner while playing ball.

5. Always play with two balls.

6. Always use the "Out" command when playing ball.

7. Always use the word "Ball" when praising the pup, i.e.:  "Good Ball!".

8. In the beginning stages, restrict your sessions to locations that are not distracting.

9. Don't give up too soon.  Far too many novice handlers throw in the hat without really, seriously trying.  Be persistent.  Follow all the guidelines and if you are still not satisfied, bring the pup to the Training Director of a local Schutzhund club for evaluation.  Don't just walk away from the ball, for if you do, you will be depriving yourself and your pup of a training tool that can make all the difference in the attitude of your dog toward her work.

10. Do not progress to the next lesson until your pup has mastered the current lesson.  Mastering a lesson does not mean the pup performed it once or twice correctly.  You need to see two consecutive days where the pup is 100 percent successful to truly be confident that the pup has mastered the lesson.

11. When introducing anything new in Schutzhund training, it is sometimes necessary to back track.  Your pup may do a terrific sit/stay, buy you can't expect a pup that doesn't know "down" to do a down/stay the very first time you teach him the command!

12. The puppy should never see or have access to the ball unless you are having a play session.  If the pup gets her fill of the ball by herself, she will grow bored with it quite rapidly.

13. Enjoy your journey.  Each day's training session will bring you closer to your goal.  Don't be in such a hurry to get there.  Impatience kills drive.  Keep in mind that each day's training session is precious time with your pup.  You will be frustrated and overjoyed, sometimes all in one day!  Remember, life, especially in dog training, is a lot more journey than it is destination.  So RELISH it!!

CONCLUSION

 December 29, 1996, Johnston City, Illinois.  I stood alone in the kitchen of Alan Sloan's house talking to my Training Director, Richard Quinn about my new pup, Toro.  I had just done my puppy temperament test on six-week old Toro and was going over it on the phone with Rick.  "how was the sound sensitivity test?", Rick asked.  "Fine", I replied, "he hardly noticed it."  "Pain tolerance?", he inquired.  "Excellent!", I answered.  "Rag drive?"  "Through the roof!!  This puppy's a rag-monster!"  Rick asked about dominance, sociability and recovery time.  Great, great and great were my answers.  Then Rick asked about Toro's ball drive.  I felt a lump develop in my throat.  I knew from my years in the Long Island Schutzhund Club how important ball drive is.  "Well," I replied, "not so good.  His sisters chase after the ball and one of them will even bring it back to me.  But Toro, he won't get off my jeans cuff long enough to even notice the balls there."  I swallowed hard and asked, "Do you think I should come home without him?"  "NO!!" Rick laughed, "Absolutely not!  You'll teach him."

 January 17, 1998 I stood on a hot Florida field with Toro.  We were united in an intense, fluid and thrilling game of ball.  My heart filled with excitement and pride, not only because I knew that ANY Schutzhund trainer watching would be impressed with what they were seeing, but because Toro's ball drive was something that I taught him.  I taught him!!!  Since that weekend in Florida when Toro's ball drive helped him complete his Conformation Championship, Toro has earned many working titles.  All of Toro's Schutzhund training has included ball play.  I credit his ball drive for helping me teach him to be the happy working dog he is today!  You can do this with your pup too!  Just go out and PLAY BALL!!

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