Floor

I already had the fender trimmed and tought that with the axle moved 1.5" foward it would be enough to clear the 16-38.5 but under compression and full steering, the tire was rubbing on the sheetmetal seam and floor. So I decided it was time for a major surgery. Well it could have been more major but it would require to move the cab support and relocate the fuse block and EFI computer if applicable.

First start by marking the new opening of the fender. At the bottom of the fender there are two bolts holding the fender to the rocker panel, make sure to keep the rear one, if not the fender will be loose.

Cut 1/2" to 3/4" inside the mark so you can bend some sheetmetal to form a lip on which a fender extension can be attached. I used a ginder with a 5" disc by 3/64" thick.

Wear protective equipment since hot metal will fly and bounce all around your body.

Cutting in progress. Check once in a while inside to make sure you don't cut wires or the dummy pedal. Don't go too high because you will hit the fuse block.

Cutting is done.

A view from inside.

The fender is bent to form a lip. A new sheetmetal patch is pop riveted to the firewall. It could be mig welded but you'll need to be carefull for fire since a lot of rustproofing stuff were outside and inside the floor. I tried first to weld using a AC Lincoln set at 40amps with 1/16" rod, but it was too difficult not making holes through the floor.

Here the two holes are patched and primed. After I will paint inside and out, fill all the cracks and rivet hole with silicone, then spray some undercoating stuff over it.

Job done.