Global Volunteers
part of the On the Road travelogue
I spent almost three weeks in a small village in Tanzania, helping the
local community construct a new buliding for their secondary school.
This was through an American-based organization called Global Volunteers.
They have programs world-wide, bringing volunteers and local communities
together. One thing I really like was their philosophy: they don't
go in and say "this is what you need." They establish a relationship
with a local sponsor, and offer to help them accomplish their goals.
This was a truly incredible experience, in many ways. I was amazed
how readily we were accepted into the community. We were able to
not only work side by side with local residents, but we were accepted as
part of the village life - we attended church, were invited to festivities,
went for dinner, played in soccer games. We instantly felt like we
belonged, and were able to get a truer understanding
of what their way of life is like.
The Approach
Our volunteer team met in Dar to start the two day journey to Pommern,
our home and work site for the next few weeks. As I was checking
in to the hotel, fresh off the boat from Zanzibar, I discovered the first
meeting had already started. Oops. The next morning we boarded
the bus for an all day ride to Iringa, the nearest "big city" to Pommern.
Luckily, we did have one major distraction: on the way we drove right through
Mikumi National Park. We saw all of the common critters: giraffe,
elephant, buffalo, zebra, antelope, and baboon.
This was the first time many of us had seen these animals, and we were
continually stopping by the side of the road to gawk. We spent the
night as guests of our hosts, the Lutheran Church. The next day,
a shorter, but bumpier, ride got us into Pommern. Our team leader
Mary got us situated in the Mission House, where
we would be living for the next few weeks.
The Job
We were one in a long chain of Global Volunteer groups, stretching back
over ten years, which had been working with this community. Most
of the work had gone into improving the secondary school. The previous
group had started the foundation for a new building - an assembly/dining
hall. We were hoping to finish that task. Much of the work
would revolve around building up a stone perimeter wall.
This meant hauling large stones to the site, transporting sand and water,
mixing mortar, and helping the masons with the stonework. Other work
involved making door frames with the carpenters, and helping out in the
local clinic. All in all, there was no shortage of things to do.
Each day we had a meeting to see what jobs needed to be done, and to
see who wanted to do what. I wanted to try everything, and was able
to do something different almost every day. The first day I hauled
stones. We got a great tractor ride out
to the next town over, loaded the bed with big rocks, came back, and dumped
them. Another day was hauling sand. First we used hoes to loosen
the sand from the sandbank. Then, we borrowed the lorry
and shoveled the sand into the bed. I actually
got a real kick out of swinging the hoe - very relaxing. The day
we got bricks, we actually got to see them
being made. First they water down the soil, then use wood molds to
create blocks of mud. These are laid out in
the sun to dry, then are later stacked to form a kiln, and fired day
and night.
All of this was mind relieving grunt work, but the cool part was working
on the site, seeing everything come together. The sand was mixed
with bags of cement (heavy!) in a set proportion. Then water was
added slowly, using shovels to turn the pile over.
In a matter of minutes - voila! - instant mortar. Next task was to
select out rocks of the right size to fit
the wall. Finally, with the help of the masons, the rocks were mortared
into place.
I also spent a day in the carpentry shop, making
door frames. It's amazing what they do with the most basic of
tools. They cut trees and use a two-man pit saw to cut it into boards.
These boards and then hand-planed smooth. All of the jams were also
planed down by hand. Amazing.
The Village
But our experience at Pommern was so much more than the work - in fact
it seemed that this was the least of it. The first weekend we were
invited to a traditional wedding reception. Many
went over early to help prepare the enormous wedding
meal. I even peeled a potato or two,
but soon found that this was not my specialty. The ceremony was long,
and mostly in Swahili, but was a neat experience. Periodically, there
was much singing by various groups - we even
got up and gave a song. Another neat thing was the way they gave
presents; they get in a line and dance up to the couple to present
the gifts. And the meal was pretty good, especially as we had
to eat with our hands.
Everyone was invited to attend church service on Sunday. I visited
the nearby Lutheran church (our local sponsors).
It was a pretty cool service, if a tad long. There was singing, there
was a play, there was sermonizing, there was a-prayin'. Again, mostly
in Swahili. But I think I got the general gist of it, and afterwards
we all filed out in the courtyard. Ladies went to one side, and men
to the other, and then an auction was held.
Mary bought a rooster - not sure what became of it.
Besides the work we were doing at the secondary
school, we had the opportunity to visit the village's primary
school as well. It was educational to see almost a hundred kids
crammed into a classroom. Primary school
through Standard 7 is mandatory - but not enforced. Many parents
don't send their kids because of the school fees, or because they need
their help around the farm. You must qualify in a national exam in
order to get invited to secondary school - and again there are the fees.
The same, but even more selective, occurs after Form 4 of high school.
Very very few make it to University.
We took a group walk out to a big rock one
day; a waterfall another day. We walked the
town; many women bought material from local shops and had clothes made
to order. One day we had pottery lesson from one of the local
potters. Even Mary took a spin.
Locals came to the Mission House and set up camp, to sell us all kinds
of baskets. And it seemed like the kids
were always hanging around. For relaxing,
we had the serenade of Gina's guitar by the fireside,
or the ever welcoming Canon's and the refuge of the
place. In short, it was a full
experience.
The Finish
For the last weekend, we had the option of spending two days in Ruaha National
Park. Most of the group went, and perservered the dusty ride over
there. We were lucky to spot some lions coming in - a good sign.
We stayed right in the park, right on the Ruaha River, in cozy little stone
bandas. You could hear the hippos lowing at night from their resting
spots in the middle of the river. Elephant also wandered around the
camp, and we also saw giraffe, antelope, and baboons from the beach.
In short, an awesome place. What made it even more cool was that
the food was fantastic - I swear that first dinner was the best I've had
on my whole trip.
The next day we did two game drives, and saw oodles of stuff.
We saw elephants, and the baobab trees they bore out
for water, dik-dik, gazelles, giraffe, jackals, and crocodiles. I
even got to sit on the roof of the bus, if only
for a short time. The second day we arranged a walking safari through
the park office. Only we didn't realize that
they were going to take us to places where we wouldn't
see any animals. I guess it's safer that way. It was a decent
walk though, and we did get to see lots of trees.
We met the rest of the group back in Iringa-town, where we had some
time to cruise the local market, and sample the
local brew (whatever the difficulties). The next day we hit the road
back to Dar. Every time we stopped it seemed that we were swarmed
by hawkers selling everything under the sun. Once in Dar, we
had a final dinner: people would be dispersing
the next morning.
Z2
A small group of us were sticking around, and decided to head out to Zanzibar.
The first day we wandered around Stone Town, buying trinkets and catching
a traditional dance performance. Next off
we headed north to the beaches! It was as
ridiculously beautiful as it was the last time
I was here, so we proceeded to swim, snorkel, beachcomb,
and generally play in the sand. Unfortunately,
in a few days we had to leave. The time always seems too short here!
But others were headed home, and I was headed north, on to my next adventure.
Recommended Reading:
If you're headed out this way, you might want to check out the following:
-
Out of Africa
Forget the movie: this is one of the most lushly written, beautifully descriptive tales of Africa back in the days of the bush pilot and the great white hunter. Not to mention a true and gripping tale. It's the most lyrical of my all time favorites.
-
West with the Night
Contemporary with Isak Dinesen (Out of Africa), this book is a better adventurer's tale, more so because it is less well known. A female bush pilot presents her riveting picture of the Africa of the times through her escapades, often interceding and colliding with the same characters in Dinesen's world.
-
Lonely Planet Tanzania, Zanzibar & Pemba
Lonely Planet East Africa
Lonely Planet Africa : On a Shoestring
This series is the bible of budget and independent travel. I used it exclusively on my nine-month round the world journey, and entirely recommend it.
-
The Safari Companion : A Guide to Watching African Mammals
This is the best guidebook I've seen for not only identifying animals on safari, but for understanding their behavior. Did you know zebra are more closely related to donkeys than to horses? Even more comprehensive is the expanded tomb:
The Behavior Guide to Africa's Mammals : Including Hoofed Mammals, Carnivores, Primates
-
Lonely Planet Swahili Phrasebook
This is a good pocket-sized swahili phrasebook which I used and found valuable. Swahili is very regular and easy to learn, and I recommend at least this small book to enrich you experience. The more you reach out to the locals, the more you will get in return.
-
Concise Swahili and English Dictionary : Swahili-English/English-Swahili (Teach Yourself Books)
And this is it's big brother, for those with a more serious interest in the language, or who plan an extended stay in East Africa (Swahili is the national language of Tanzania, Kenya, and Somalia).