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Marina del Rey Catalina Island (Mid-December)
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Dolphins escorted us across the Santa Monica Bay to Santa Catalina Island. We spent Christmas there and then returned to Redondo Beach to celebrate New Years with friends.
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We weathered our first storm anchored in Redondo Beach. Winds of 50 kts were predicted but they fortunately stayed below 30 kts. The storm kicked up waves big enough to break over the seawall.
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We returned to Catalina for a few more days after the New Years Celebrations. It was a wonderful time of year to visit because there are very few visiting boats. Trick was often the only visiting boat in the Isthmus. We left Catalina for San Diego mid January. We had managed a mere 30 miles South in our first 30 days! |
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San Diego
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San Diego was our next port of call, and an important one to pick up some equipment for Trick. Spare watermaker filters and the equipment to complete our Radio system to receive weatherfaxes and hopefully send email. We were very impresses with the abundance of sailing related businesses around Shelter Island and even more impressed with how friendly and helpful they all seemed to be. In between our shopping forays and boat projects we managed a few days of sightseeing. Among the highlights were seeing Geronimo one of the biggest and fastest boats in the world and a trimaran, of course! The aircraft carrier Midway, now a musem was another fascinating experience with its display of aircraft on the flight deck and a chance to roam around the rest of this fascinating ship.
While in San Diego we spent a few very enjoyable days as guests of the Southwestern Yacht Club, anchored a couple of weekends in La Playa cove and spent a few nights at the public docks where we paid a very inexpensive $10 per night.
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Geronimo at a dock in San Diego
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John wishing Trick had an engine room like this |
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Ensenada
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We left San Diego for Ensenada in early February and arrived in the early evening after a day of motorsailing. We we greeted by an unlit powerboat heading directly at us, bow to bow. We swerved to avoid him about the same time he swerved and came alongside us with offers of help. As we talked, it became pretty clear that the occupant of the boat was attempting every sort of misinformation in efforts to persuade us to use his 'services' (including trying to mislead us on what day it was). We later met other cruisers who had similar experiences, suggesting that this individual tries the same thing with everyone entering the harbor. We declined his help and anchored for the night.
The next day we did our check-in at the Migracion offices and obtained all of the necessary documentation for our stay in Mexico. We then found a slip at Bandito's Marina and discovered we were dealing with the individual who had rushed out to meet us the previous night. We should have known better! At least we had Trick tied up at a dock before we handed over any money. The following day he told us that he needed the dock for someone else and asked us to move. We argued that we had paid for a week and shouldn't have to move and agreed to revisit the issue 'manana'. Great, we thought, maybe that will give us a few days. However, we were harassed to leave every day that we stayed there. That, plus the very dirty harbor and primitive facilities on the dock persuaded us to leave Ensenada earlier than planned and not have the work done on trick that we had planned.
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Bandito's marina with Trick tied up at the dock. |
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The burned electrical outlet for shore power. |
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We would have enjoyed Ensenada had it not been for our experience on the waterfront, There was a totally different town just a few blocks away from the harbor. Friendly, helpful merchants in well supplied stores provided us with all sorts of items from multi-meters to stainless screws. They enjoyed our efforts to speak their language, laughing and even correcting us when we blundered, but all in a well meaning way. Patricia noted that one of our guidebooks pointed out that politeness goes a long way in Mexico and we found that smiles, acknowledgements with a 'buenas dias' as we walked into stores seemed to set a friendly tone for our efforts and we always found them reciprocated.
There are now several consumer related tourist sites in Ensenada that seem very helpful. There is one on the main road by the fish market, another across the street just a little North of Baja Naval and one on the East side of the main road near the Cruiseport marina.
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Turtle Bay
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Our intent was to gunkhole down the Baja coast but weather conditions just didn't cooperate. March is a notoriously unpredictable month for weather and we hit a period of cold, cloudy weather that just didn't make places seem very inviting. Consequently we just kept sailing until we got to Turtle Bay. This is a popular resting point on the way down the Baja coast because it is a large, well protected bay which is safe in most weather conditions. We arrived there mid February, after 3 days at sea and anchored among a few other cruising boats. We had both developed colds on the way down and so stayed aboard Trick for a few days to recuperate. The friendly locals visited us occasionally to see if we needed anything until we felt well enough to go ashore. There we found a small town with dirt streets looking somewhat rundown but otherwise full of friendly people and plenty of stores to replenish our supplies. Even an internet cafe. Most of the cruisers seemed to be heading North but we met one couple from Canada on a Rawson 30, Whistful, heading for Cabo. Food was very cheap and beers at a palapa on the beach were $1 each! |
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Turtle Bay Sunset
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A view of Turtle bay from a bar on the beach
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Punta Abreojos
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Next on our list of places to visit was Punta Abreojos. The name means 'open your eyes' and you certainly need them with all of the reefs and shallow water around. We anchored just off the village, so that we didn't have to dinghy far to visit. This is a very busy spot with lots of fishermen in pangas tending their abundant lobster traps. They were all very friendly and waved if they came close to Trick. Again a few came alongside and asked if we needed any help.
Ashore was a small fishing village with dirt roads. But this place seemed very well kept. The townspeople were clearly proud of their town, telling how great the fishing and surfing were. Especially windsurfing which seems highly likely given the relatively strong winds that we experienced there every day.
One fascinating feature was the large number of ospreys which used the power poles as foundations for their homes.
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Abreojos Pangas
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Main Street, Punta Abreojos. Dirt roads and osprey nests on the power poles.
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Osprey Nest
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Osprey
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Abreojos Sunset
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Very few boats came into Punta Abrohos. We saw one or two in the distance, choosing to anchor deeper in the bay where it was more sheltered. Only one boat, the Nina B anchored nearby and Byron, a HAM radio enthusiast did much to help us out and encourage us with the mysteries of our SSB radio. |
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There were plenty of well stocked stores and a couple of internet cafes in Abreojos, but no laundry facilities. John finally completed the saltwater plumbing so we could do some laundry on the boat without too much use of our freshwater. He didn't really do much of the laundry, just posed for the pictures! |
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Josephina's Place
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Restaurants were a little thin on the ground (but so were customers). We met Josephina at the grocery store and she promised to open up her 'loncheria' for us. It took her about 30 minutes to open up 'Las Palmas' as we hung out on the beach. Her tiny restaurant overlooks the bay and we sipped Pacificos as Josephina cooked us fish tacos. These are a popular meal in Mexico. Battered fish wrapped in a tortilla and accompanied with raw cucumber and cabbage. The batter was slightly hot and the fish was delicious! Four beers and 4 tacos for $10. Plus an ocean view as we ate. |
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We had hoped to visit the San Ignacio Lagoon, reputed to be the best place in Baja to commune with the grey whales. Unfortunately we couldn't arrange anything and eventually decided to take Trick close to the lagoon to see if we could make radio contact. The Bay (Bahia de Ballenas, or Whale Bay) is about 10 miles across and facilities in the lagoon are a further 10 miles inland. Surf around the entrance to the lagoon was intimidating and marked the extensive shoal areas in this area of the bay. We decided not to try negotiating them and moved up to the very Northern end of the bay to anchor close to another lagoon, Laguna Escondido. This is a much shallower lagoon that whales probably can't enter. More breaker marked shoals protected the entrance to this lagoon also. An extensive desert extends North of this region and we were treated to views of huge sand dunes on the nearby beach. The next day we decided to kayak to the beach about a quarter mile away rather than battle the breakers into the lagoon. We then walked across a narrow spit of sand and had lunch on another small beach overlooking a lagoon surrounded with mangroves. We waved at a passing panga and the fishermen immediately came ashore to greet us. They said they farmed oysters in the lagoon, told us that that local village, Campo Rene had a great restaurant and even places to stay if we needed somewhere. They also explained that we could enter the lagoon by dinghy from a shallow channel that hugged the shore and which was best negotiated at low tide. |
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Abreojos Beach
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North shore dunes
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Breakers off Laguna Escondido
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Next day we took the dinghy in and found our way into the lagoon, just as described by the fishermen. We experienced a wonderfully calm and sunny expanse of mangrove-lined waterways just full of all kinds of life. Leaping fish, small sharks, many species of herons, white pelicans, a turtle and even dolphins. This was a true nature-lovers paradise making Campo Rene a remote but very desirable place to stay. We didn't make it to Campo Rene since it was on the other side of the lagoon and separated from Trick by the mass of shoals, so can't provide any first-hand experience of the place. We met several fishermen in their pangas who seemed to be based there and all were wonderfully friendly and helpful. |
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EscondidaButterfly
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Mangrove Lagoon
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Mangrove Channel
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White Pelicans
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2 herons
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Heron
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Whales
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Disappointed not to have seen the whales, we eventually set off down Bahia Ballenas towards our next destination - Bahia Magdalena. As we crossed well offshore of the entrance to Laguna San Ignacio, we were treated to a spectacular display by a small pod of grey whales. One even poked his head high out of the water as if to take a good look at us. That behavior is called 'spyhopping' The whales seemed to be playing as they rolled around in the water and swam around in circles. Despite their prolonged and lively display, our camera just didn't manage to capture any of the more spectacular moments. Ahhh the ones that got away! |
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Magdalena Bay
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We arrived at Bahia Magdalena about a day and a half later. We had hoped to spend some time in Bahia Santa Maria, on the outside of Bahia Magdalena, but the pessimistic weather forecasts had us scurrying for the shelter of Mag Bay.
The winds died as we rounded Punta Entrada, entrance to the Bay. They picked up again once clear of the point and we decided to tack North to Man-o'-War Cove. A long port tack to the northeast set us up for the starboard tack into the anchorage at which point the wind died and we had to motor the rest of the way. We dropped anchor in the wonderfully calm cove among a few other cruising boats. Puerto Magdalena is a tiny village on the edge of Man-o'-War Cove. The popularity of this location with cruising boats earns it a full-tim Capitania del Puerto Gregorio Sanches. Capitania Sanches pulled his panga alongside Trick almost a soon as the anchor hit sand. As we are habitually discovering, he was very friendly and helpful. It took only a couple of minutes to complete formalities then we sat chatting over coffee for about a half hour. We asked about getting money at the much bigger port of San Carlos just across the bay (about 10 miles away! Mag Bay is HUGE!). He told us the nearest ATM was in Ciudad Constitucion, a 35 mile drive from San Carlos then offered to take us and another cash depleted cruiser to get cash the next day. We happily accepted and arranged for him to pick us up at 8 the next morning.
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Pta Entrada - the entrance to Bahia Magdalena |
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Gregorio Sanchez - Capitania del Puerto, Puerto Magdalena |
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The wind picked up overnight, creating something of a swell but Senor Sanches arrived promptly at 8. Patricia elected to go alone and leave John to keep an eye on Trick in the strong winds. She joined fellow cruiser Rodney from the sailing boat Stella Blue (which was heading North) and headed off to Constitucion for a foraging expedition.
We arranged with the crew of Stella Blue to go hiking the next day. The high winds persisted and weather forecasts picked up on our SSB radio suggested that they would continue for several days. Other boats came in and anchored to await better weather and a small cruiser net developed as people radioed welcomes to newcomers. Some, we were even familiar with as they had introduced themselves on the SSB nets which occur morning and evening. It didn't take long for a few informal get-togethers to while away the time we spent waiting. There is an excellent restaurant on the beach although prices are closer to American than Mexican. Apparently, it is a favorite lunchtime stop for the whale watching panga trips. The food (local shrimp, lobster or fish) was outstanding and you couldn't ask for a better location than overlooking the peaceful beach. Perhaps the only awkward feature of the place being the abundant signs of the once-intensive whale hunting that went on in the vicinity.
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MagBay
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MagBaySouth
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MagBayNorth
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Whalebones
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Lunch with Ken and Julie from BunGee (far end of the table and Rodney and Dallas from Stella Blue (backs to the camera). This also happened to be John's birthday. |
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A mysterious honking attracted our attention one morning. It's source seemed to be a strange looging boat heading across the bay. Binoculars revealed it to be a car ferry! - two pangas tied together with a truck straddling the two! The panga pulled up to the beach and in no time the truck was driven down a makeshift wooden ramp to the beach. What a creative way to deliver a car! |
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Car Ferry 1
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Car Ferry 2
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Car Ferry 3
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Everyone was beginning to get rather anxious to leave the bay, but the weather forecasts just didn't seem to cooperate. A party was hastily arranged to provide some solace and Trick was volunteered as the host boat. We spent a lovely evening with the crew of Stella Blue, BunGee and Altair, getting slightly inebriated and very well fed. One of the crew on Altair was Rudy Pel, a longtime sailing friend of John's.
We had also heard through our Sailmail account that fellow SMWYC members Joe and Sharon Boyle were nearby in their Catalina 39, Lucky Lady II. Much to our surprise they came on the air when we were making radio calls from Trick. They were just a few miles away in Bahia Santa Matia on the outside of Mag Bay.
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Cabo San Lucas
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Eventually the gathering cruisers realized that the local weather didn't match up with the pessimistic forecasts. Light winds persuaded us to risk the next leg to Cabo San Lucas. Maybe the party had appeased the weather Gods, or Neptune. The gamble paid off and we encountered comfortable seas and just enough wind for us to sail. Coincidence arose once again as we crossed within a few hundred yards of Lucky Lady II in the middle of the night.
The tip of Baja appeared in the next glorious sunrise and we pulled into Cabo San Lucas in dying winds and warm sunshine. Despite John's concerns about this busy tourist town, it has turned out to be a very appealing place. The East facing bay is spectacular with a mountainous peninsula on the Southern side (ending in the famous arch) and beaches surrounding the rest of the bay. The harbor at the Western tip of the bay is very busy with dozens of glass-bottomed water taxis ferrying people along the rocky peninsula to the famous arch and beaches with their abundance of sea life. We topped up with diesel at one of the several fuel docks, paying somewhat less than prices at US fuel docks. Rumors of $100+ per night dock rates persuaded us to anchor in the bay where we found Whistful and Bungee. We eventually verified that a slip for Trick would be $180 per night! The anchorage would be very comfortable were it not for the hordes of PWCs and water taxis creating quite a chop. This also makes the short dinghy trip between Trick and the harbor something of an E-ticket adventure. The other 'feature' of Cabo seems to be the very noisy beach parties with loud music extending into the early hours of the morning. Of course, March is Spring Break month which may have something to do with that.
Restaurants and stores in Cabo seem to be about the same as US prices. Only the language seems to distinguish it from any US city. There are several good marine stores in the mall developments surrounding the harbor, dive shops for air fills, internet cafes and US style grocery stores among the mass of restaurants, fishing charter booths and tourist trinket stores.
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Cabo Sunrise
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Cabo Condos
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Cabo Bay
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Cabo Point
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Cabo Beach
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It had taken us exactly 3 months to travel the ~900 nautical miles from Marina del Rey to the Southern tip of Baja California. About 10 miles per day which seems to be an agreeable pace to cruise at, leaving time to explore and get to know interesting locations along the way. |
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