Histories of Kefalonia make frequent references to the contribution of the British to the development of the island in the nineteenth century. These references name worthies such as James Napier and show pictures of the splendid obelisk on the Trapano Bridge. But what of the common soldiers and sailors who made this success possible?

If you walk from Argostoli across the Trapano Bridge, passing that famous monument and continue just a hundred meters along the coast road you will see, on your left, the tall black wrought iron gates to the British Cemetery. Step inside and you can learn something of the experiences of the troops and their families who were stationed on the island.

This is a tranquil place, shaded by tall trees and filled with the graves of those who lost their lives so far from home. Many of the graves have headstones erected by families or comrades and it is these which tell the stories. Stories of fever, mainly cholera, which took so many young soldiers and sailors. Stories of whole families dying in a single month, or leaving one member to erect a stone in remembrance. Stories of sailors drowned in accidents. Stories of infants lost within days or weeks of their birth.

For years the cemetery was neglected and damaged. There are still bullet scars from Italian pot-shots during the last war. By the early 1990s the site was overgrown and derelict. But it was found by an ex-army visitor who felt a kinship with those whose bones lay in that place and who has since, single-handedly (with little or no support from the War Graves Commission as these people did not die in conflict.) restored much of the site and plotted and recorded the graves. A notice board gives a full account of his work and notes the names of all those known to be buried there.

Anyone visiting the island should pause, even if just for a few minutes at this place with its gentle ghosts of a bygone time.

PICTURE - AVENUE OF TRESS AND MEMORIAL IN THE CEMETERY
DRAKOPOULATA VILLAGE

The village of Drakopoulta which lies about 3km up the road to Makriotika from Aghia Efimia provides a wonderful insight into the way the island has progressed from the earthquake of 1953 and is well worth a visit.

To get to the village from Aghia Efimia walk up the road to Makriotika which is signposted and starts from the southern end of the harbour front beyond the church. Walking is better than driving as it adds to the feel of the visit. Halfway up the hill is a thoughtfully provided seat which offers a fine view over the bay as you rest. The village is signed, with new houses on the road, but to get to the original village walk on until you reach a left turn of tarmac road. Walking along this road you will pass a right turn to the, now restored, church. After visiting this walk on into the remains of the village.

The walk will have shown you the sequence of building after the earthquake. There are a few new houses built after the earthquake, most of which have been improved and extended. But look closer and you will see a couple which were erected but never occupied. Presumably the families just decided to move away.

PICTURE 1
You will also see evidence of the self-help approach in now decaying buildings constructed from whatever was available shortly after 1953. Noticeable is the temporary church with its tin roof and bell stand.

PICTURE 2
However it is the remains of the village itself which demands the closest attention. You can walk along the remains of pathways and road and amongst the stones and thousands of broken tiles seeing rusting pans, broken pottery, an old chest and other remnants, or look inside the shells with their decaying timbers and imagine the bustle of domestic life brought to such a sudden halt.

PICTURES 3 AND 4
If you drop down through the village and through the valley filled with olive trees you regain the road for your journey back.