The time had come to seek new
places, life's adventure had already taken me to every state of Australia by
motorcycle, it was time to add to those memories. I felt the urge to visit the
land of the free, of Mom's apple pie, and good old Uncle Sam.
Twelve hours after departing
a rain soaked Sydney, Qantas expelled me safely in Los Angeles. The warm sun
struggling to compete with the smog that covered the city. Within a couple of
hours I was on my way to Phoenix, Arizona where I was to pick up my rental bike.
Unfortunately it was not a Harley, but a BMW, none the less I had two wheels to
travel about on.
Time was limited so I couldn't see
all that Arizona offered, but not to be missed is the Grand Canyon, one of the
most spectacular canyons in the world. Winding down to the Colorado River are a
maze of tracks and, if you squint from the top, you can see the adventurous
making their way to the bottom on mules, although some took the easy way by
helicopter.
Departing the canyon I
followed the sentimental favourite, Route 66, which officially doesn't exist any
more. The heat continued to blast the desert as I made my way towards New
Mexico, with its sun-drenched mesas and dry river beds. New Mexico has its
attractions, but I spent little time in this state. I was Colorado bound,
chasing a dream ride over the Rocky Mountains.
Colorado is a state of natural
beauty, from the scenic Rockies to the dry flat plains. For a motorcycling
tourist, Highway 550 from Durango to Silverton and on to Ouray is known as
"The Million Dollar Highway", and it certainly was. The road traversed
up and down, through a multitude of switchbacks, over snow covered passes and
past elk grazing near frozen lakes with timber lodges on the shoreline. Under
mighty eagles soaring through a cloudless sky.
Descending from the pine forests,
I rode through towns nestled deep between the mountains. At lower altitudes, the
road made its way past farms and fast flowing rivers well stocked with tasty
fish. After Highway 550 a right turn takes you onto Route 50 heading east
towards Gunnison and Monach Pass. The summit dissects the clouds at 11,312 feet.
Snow on both sides of the unfenced road made it impossible to stop for
photography.
Turning south and a quick jaunt
through the north-east corner of New Mexico and I was in Texas. Crossing the
Texas border, the town of Texline is a welcome interruption to escape the heat.
In the Texas Panhandle the temperature rose to 110 F. Gusty cross winds,
electrical storms, heavy rain and hail made it interesting for a while. A few
miles to my north in Oklahoma, twisters were having a spinning good time.

I passed through many towns
well documented in western folk-lore. Amarillo, Sweetwater, Abilene and others
that jumped out of dusty cowboy books. The arid landscape emitted an
oil-stained aroma. The smell of money wafted around my nose. A couple of hours
later, the smell of oil was replaced by the smell of beef. Green, lush grass in
Central Texas was a pleasant change. Elm and cedar trees gave shade to fat
cattle as they grazed contentedly out of the burning sun.
Slow talking cowboys have
long been the symbol of The Lone Star state. Although I saw many cowboys on
horse back, even more were driving pick-up trucks. The horse-power may be
different, but jeans, stetsons and cowboy boots were still in fashion.
I decided to visit the Texas
Ranger Hall of Fame museum in Waco. This is a fascinating place where you can
spend a couple of hours and still miss something. On display were the weapons
used by Billy The Kid and Sheriff Pat Garret who gunned him down on July 14th
1881, in New Mexico, the Kid was 21 years old. History informs us The Kid killed
five men, legend states it is closer to twenty-one.
The search for more information
found me down near San Antonio, where Davy Crockett, Colonel Travis, and others
took on the Mexicans at the Alamo. Moving further south, I arrived in Corpus
Christi on the Gulf of Mexico where I found the USS Lexington, which served
during WW II after being launched in 1942. She saw many battles and became an
aviation training carrier after the war. The Lex was opened as a navel museum in
1992.
On completion of one hell of a
bloody good time, it was time to make the long trip west, towards Phoenix and
Los Angeles. A Texas thunderstorm bade me farewell. I didn't mind one bit as I
rode through heavy downpours minus wet weather gear. With the temperature
soaring at 115 to 120 F it did not take long to dry out once I was passed the
storm. On more than one occasion, dehydration was my travelling companion.
Before long I was back in west
Texas, the heat of the desert frying rattle-snakes on the highway. Towns of
cowboy legend came in to view and faded in to the shimmering heat. Eldorado,
Fort Stockton, Pecos and El Paso on the Mexican border. I had planned to cross
into Mexico but the rental agreement on my bike would not allow it. So I sat on
the US side of the Rio Grande and observed Mexico, eating an enchilada, drinking
root beer, and listening to a Mexican radio station on my trusty and well
travelled transistor radio.
My journey through Colorado
and the south-west of the USA covered 7000 miles and took eight weeks and at
$1.25 per US gallon and less than $20.00 a night for accommodation, a very
economical journey. Every where I went in rural America I found the people very
friendly, although I learned a new version of sign language as I mastered riding
on the wrong side of the road.
Would I go back? You bet!
There is still a lot of motorcycle roads in the US I want to ride on. If only
the Australian dollar would improve to make it more affordable.