Rides

Day 1
Who knows where any writing I do on my travels will take me. Most likely it will become a smorgasbord of observations, musings, notes, shopping lists, ideas, some poetry, and hopefully some memories. The train is pretty much what I expected it to be. Toronto was slow going, but we're moving now. My excitement at getting a chance to see the country form a new perspective is returning. I just saw the biggest grey heron I've ever seen, in a small pond. Now two ducks in a marsh. I've seen a lot of wildlife in my time, but my current venue and vibe are filling me with a new kind of interest, or at least a new perspective. As I write this I realize how sparked my observational engine is. Big deal, who cares about a bunch of birds? Right now, I do, I guess.

Day 2, 6:45 am
I wake up in the observation car to find it filling up with travellers only slightly less weary than myself. The train is cutting through a long corridor of tall skinny evergreens, and as near as I can tell, we are approaching Thunder Bay.?. We made good time after nightfall, and I met a few interesting people. The retired TV producer reminds me a little of Mr. Bongard and some profs that I've had (eloquent, interested, smart) He told me a funny story about the boston Globe. On the day that Tip O'neill died (old speaker of the house in the States), there was another big story in the news. Loreena Bobbit had just cut off the end of her husband's penis. The Globe ran the headline "ALL OF BOSTON MOURNS TIP". It's a greay day, and two baby ducks are the first birds of the day.

Day 3, 8:45 pm, Western Manitoba
Well, I've switched my watch back twice today. We stopped in Winnpeg for 45 minutes or so. Here's the cast of characters:
Wade: 3rd year Western student on his way to Dawson City for the summer
Rob and Nicola: my seat mates; nice couple from England about my age; Rob said that George Michael "got sucked into some trouble a while back, dinnit he, eh?" which I thought was funny.
Wibe: 19, from Holland, spent the last few weeks working in a nursery north of T.O. and now he's heading west to work; Wade & I taught him Euchre, but he hates it - he even left halfway through a game and didn't come back for two hours; don't worry, the Menonites took over in the euchre game
Danielle & Kristy: Danielle's from Thornhill, but goes to UBC, and Kristy's from BC, but goes to McGill. I forget know how they met.
Miranda: a really nice girl from Saskatchewan, who, unfortunately looks like a cross between Uma Thurman and Rodger.
Jed: the old TV producer I was talking about yesterday.
Sunny: the waiter in the dining car, who Wade swears is the guy from the Home Hardware commercials
The Menonites: two brothers who have never been off their farm - LITERALLY!! They have been sent on a coming of age, kind of thing, and are loving very second of it; in fact, they're kind of freaking me out - there's a story here somewhere, I'm just too afraid to find out.

More crew to come, I'm sure, but I'm going to grab a beer, now.

Day 4, 5:25 am, west of Unity, Saskatchewan
Two quick thuds to the bottom of my feet brought me to the blurry sight of the conductor standing over me grinning, "Daylight time son, you have to find a seat now."
A quick no worries, and here I am. A big field of while directly to the south prompts me to ask someone, "Is that snow?" a few seconds of hesitant "I guess so" looks are rescued by a "No, dear, it's the salt flats." Thanks, old lady. I feel enlightened, not embarrassed and it's a good feeling.
8:40 am
Had some breakfast with John a few hours ago, and have been dozing and reading ever since. Just outside of Edmonton
5:45pm
Just passed Valemount B.C. Peaks all around.
Day 5, 4:35 am
I tried to sleep in coach last night for the first time. Same result. So now I'm back in the glass bubble for the last few hours of the trip. As with most of the ride through B.C. we are following the course of a river. The land is steep to the water on my right and steep to the peak on my left. Fantastic views. I think we just passed Hell's Gate Canyon. It's a tram ride over the river that I remember Jim Fowlie taking us to on one of our many (cont.)

tours. It had actually crossed my mind last night. Cool. My only companions as I write area little old Japanese tourist, a cyclist who just rode from Victoria to Edmonton and a flat two litre diet Coke. At least the pop is cold. WOW. The sun is cresting the peaks to my right.
6:15 am
Just woke up to find the bubble car full. Two guys got on in Jasper yesterday after hiking/hitching through Alaska/Yuko/NWT. We played some cards and had some dinner. Their names are Mike and NIMROD. No shit. The dude's name is Nimrod. He's from Israel originally but moved to BC 8 years ago. He's a dead ringer for Tim Roth and I think he really is, and is just playing with my mind, man.
Gone, gone, gone...she been gone so long. Chilliwack, BC. A few farms, a small lumber mill and the memories of a great Canadian Rock n Roll band. We're at Matsqui (Mission) now.
1:05 pm
Waiting for for Aunt Robin at corner of Alma and 4th in Kits. Played some pool with Wibe at Jeremiah's. Got him settled at a nice hostel.
Day 6, 8:35 am (on ferry to Nanaimo)
It's amazing how the presence of nature can impact on your soul. Trees have a calming effect, the air makes you feel alive and the mountains make you realize how small you are.
5:15 pm
Terry picked me up and drove me all the way to Campbell River. It was a quick ferry to Quadra, and a lift from a nice family to the Cortes ferry. The air is of the sea. I don't know how, but it is. The people are very bohemian and rugged in teir own way. Hand rolled cigarettes and burlap sacks. The smiles are permanent and unforced. They look comfortable with life, whereas people in Toronto can't even be comfortable with each other. They speak of the pod of 65 whales off Campbell River, not the traffic on the DVP. I feel comfortable, but know my own differences. Even the gruffest passenger has the cutest puppy you've ever seen. NO ATTITUTDE. There is only the simple pleasure of petting a stranger's puppy.
6:06 pm
I acutally got a hold of bubber. Wow. As I wait, tennis ball jellyfish fill the blue water and starfish crowd the barnacled rocks that I leap to and from. Crabs scurry. a big purple starfish is sunning himself on a rock left dry by the tide. His bright purple tentacles are motionless, but his colour moves me beyond words. It is quiet. It is beautiful. I am speechless
10:53 pm
A hindu lesson from Paul.
Days later.
Yesterday was a beautiful and lazy day. Fell asleep before dinner. Just left Cortes after a nice swim in the lake. The gruff guy with the pup was a buddy of Bub's. Richie, and the dog's name is Diojee. (D-O-G) Cortes is a community of hermits, artists, loners and environmentalists. One story out of whack was the guy who cleared his land of beautiful trees to sell the lumber to Japan so he could buy a log home kit from Ontario. Brutally strange, but true.