
Murdeshwar
Murdeshwar, 16 km from Bhatkal has
recently shot into prominence as one of the loveliest spots in
Karnataka. One can enter Murdeshwar from the Bhatkal-Honnavar National
Highway through a specially erected big entrance decorated with
intricate carvings. Murdeshwar symbolises the past glory of Hinduism. It
is centered around the splendid Murdeshwar temple atop a hillock
overlooking the Arabian Sea. Epic has it that this magnificent
Murdeshwar linga emerged when Ravana threw the cloth covering the
Atmalinga at Gokarn (another pilgrim centre in Uttara Kannada). And this
cloth is presumed to have landed on this hillock called `Kanduka Parvata'
and called Marideshwar'. The two inscriptions found in the older temple
shed light on the construction of Nandi Mantapa in 1542 A.D. and the
times of Devaraya II of Vijayanagar. There is however another version
about the atmalinga being broken into four pieces & thrown by Ravana.
The old temple has been recently renovated. Built in a Dravidian style,
this temple excludes medieval grace and charm. The magnificent temple
overlooks the Arabian sea. To the side of the compound wall is the
Nataraja statue made of bell metal. A shrine of `Jattiga', the guarding
deity, is seen installed outside the temple. One is greeted with the
bewitching beauty of the surroundings as one reaches the top of the
hillock. The vast stretches of silvery sands with the Sahyadri mountains
framed into the background, the coconut trees dancing to the tunes of
the billows, rose of boats dancing and drifting towards the shore, the
sun looking like a ball of
fire just before the sunset and then sinking into the sea - all weave a
magic spell and make the viewers forget themselves.
The
beauty of the floating mountain
The Bhatkal Alvekodi beach on the
Western coast may show water on all sides but sailing 30 kms off the shore
would reveal a floating mountain,
Unlike islands with vast, sandy beaches, this
one creeps up straight from the sea with rock edges, a sight that would
excite adventure buffs. The 30 acre forest area located above the hill
called Netrani contains the spectacular sights of nature.
Circum-navigating the island takes 15 to 20 minutes on a speed boat. We
learnt from local people that the island was at least thrice its current
size in the past. While Netrani appears amazing from a distance, climbing
atop its slippery rock edges is certainly dangerous. While sailing through
the vast engulfing ocean, Netrani comes to view an hour before we could
actually reach the island. The towering mountain silhouetted in the
morning sun is a sight of inexplicable beauty. Sailing nearly an hour and
a quarter on the speed boat was an interesting experience. Visitors have
to simply jump off the boats to the rocks and start climbing the hill. It
is hard to imagine what would happen if one falls from such a height. The
slippery rock beneath our feet brought out the shudders. Around 100 meters
of climb brought us to a flat muddy surface covered with thick forest.
Secular place
- Our trip to Netrani had two reasons: this place is a site of worship for
fishermen belonging to Hinduism, Christianity and Islam, which made the
island a rare thing. It's also used by Indian Navy for testing their
bombing skills, evident from several unexploded bombs we found on the
way.Fishermen of Uttara Kannada from Honnavar to Udupi frequent the island
to offer their prayers to the sites of their respective gods. Hindus
worship at Jatakeshwara and his family of gods, established here in
February this year, while Muslims visit the Darga where a muslim saint is
burried, and Christians the holy cross rebuilt in 1994, after it was
destroyed due to wear and tear of time and weather. Fishermen believe
visiting the place on special occasions, say while buying new boats, bring
god's blessings and make sea ventures more profitable. On these occasions,
they offer hens and goats to the gods in a vow called "Harake." Birds and
animals thus offered to god will be left to live freely in the island.
Fishermen also believe eating them or taking them back to the mainland
would invite god's wrath.
Visiting the island isn't always safe, as the Navy's Cochin and Mumbai
divisions conduct their bomb practice here. Fishermen are given sufficient
warning and the island is sealed off during the bombing raids, which
starts in April. Fishermen here say February is the best time to visit the
island. With no major shift in its temperature, this turns out to be a
true tropical paradise.
A small fresh water stream flows through the hill and on the trees, we
could see eagles, which, fishermen mentioned, hover around the island
looking for Boa-constrictors. Netrani is also called the pigeon island, as
it houses thousands of pigeons. It is said that many traders come here
from Kerala to collect the bird's droppings. Though we couldn't see
pigeons, we could hear them from a distance.
Apart from visitors, Netrani has also been an attraction for scientific
expeditions. Local people revealed that teams of scientists have been
conducting experiments.
The unique characteristics of Netrani are that it has something for
everyone: adventure freaks, those wanting to see religious sites, nature
lovers and scientists. There are different ways of reaching the island;
the most common one of course is taking a boat on hire at Bhatkal port. We
learnt during our trip that training in swimming is important, considering
the dangers one may have to confront here.

THE
DESTINATION Around
10 miles west of the Karnataka coast on the Arabian Sea is
the Netrani Island. The only inhabitants of the island are
wild goats. Besides, the Indian navy often uses this island for
target practice.
THE
JOURNEY To
get there, one has to hire a fishing trawler from Bhatkal
or Honawar. One approach to Bhatkal is from the south by
road from Mangalore or from Bombay. Nestled between
the Arabian Sea and Saraswathy forest, Bhatkal is a small
sleepy and picturesque town untrammeled by tourists. The constant
travel of the locals to the Middle Eastern countries seems to have
had such an impact as to create a pseudo Arabic culture and the
place abounds in fancy bungalows and grand mosques.
THE ISLAND
On approaching
the lee of the island, from the east face, it looks like a cake
with near vertical sides topped by a gentle sloping plateau. It is
really a seamount, supporting a soil layer overgrown with trees
and plants. The monsoon rain percolating into the soil is held and
preserved by rocks to sustain plant life round the year.
Denudation through weathering and gunnery is extensive on the west
face and to a lesser extent on the south, but flora reaches
down to the sea level on the north and east, preserving the soil.
There exists a subterranean cave opening in the south as well as
north clear of the high water mark.
Scouting along the sea face, a grotto can
be located further south. It contains a fresh water spring
having a flow about a liter a minute. The water is cool and tastes
like mineral water. Apparently these grottos under the shadow of
the tree line usually possess fissures' flows.
If one chooses the dry watercourse, one
would find an incline of about 60 degree that is packed with loose
broken rocks overgrown with grass. After a crawling climb of
nearly 170 meters, a gentle plateau appears. The place
looks like a botanists paradise.
At night, it is a silent world from a
city dweller's point of view. Yet it has its own decibels. Sounds
of sea gently break on the rocks; wind blowing through the leaves;
nesting birds calling out to each other; wild goats foraging
nearby; or an occasional rat scampering about, punctuate the
night.
On the plateau is a temple and mazaar,
where in April pilgrims come and release a goat or chicken
as an offering. The temple and the mazaar co-exist peacefully with
a lone coconut palm maintaining vigil between them. The mazaar
appears ancient and has numerous flags tied around it. The temple
consists of a platform on which stand several deities. The lingams
and the statues seem fairly old bordering on the antique. One of
the lingams has some inscriptions on it.
he temple has three
bells. Puja
offerings of cash and other paraphernalia lay scattered. A notice
nailed to a large tree nearby reads, "People are prohibited
to kill and take away the birds and animals left here in the name
of God. Lifters will be responsible for the consequences."
HOW TO
REACH : To
reach Netrani, one has to hire a trawler from Bhatkal or Honowar.
It is a 22 hour-long journey by bus from Bombay to Bhatkal. It
takes almost two and a half hours to three hours to reach Netrani
by the trawler.
WHERE TO
STAY
: One
certainly can get a lodging at Bhatkal, but if one decides to stay
overnight at Netrani, they should make their own arrangements like
tents, sufficient food and water.Locally
known as Netragudo, the Netrani island is an excellent picnic spot off
the Bhatkal coast. Also called as Pigeon island, this Netrani island
which is about 25 km from the Bhatkal coast, is a hill in the Arabian
Sea.The island is enveloped by wild growth of trees and climbing the
step hill is not that easy. If we are able to reach the top of the hill
braving all hazards involved which is a rewarding experience we can see
the idol of Jattiga and sculptures of cocks and elephants on one side
and grave of a Muslim on the other. It is believed that it was once
common to take vows to offer worship here. The ruins of a temple, a
Roman catholic church and a mosque can still be seen. The island has
sheltered innumerable wild goats.

Manki
Located about 28 km from
Bhatkal,Manki is a place of considerable antiquity and was a famous Jain
centre during the 14th and 15th centuries. The place has temples
dedicated to Ganapathi, Venkataramana, Durga etc. The place has 3
mosques.

ADDITIONAL
PLACES OF INTEREST
Shirali
, Hadwalli, Kaikin , Marvanthe , Chitrapur ,
Shirali 4 km from
Bhatkal on the National Highway is Shirali, a place of
considerable antiquity. Lying on the north of the Venktapura river,
Shirali has inscriptions of the Alupas, Hoysalas, Hadwalli rulers
and Vijayanagar. This place houses a centre which measures
rainfall. The Mahaganapathy temple is situated here. The idol of
Ganapati is carved out of stone whereas the icon of Mahamaya is
made of an alloy of five metals.

SHIRALI
: Shirali is
located in the southern part of North Kanara (Uttar Kannada) district of
Karnataka state and is easily accessible to the Chitrapur Saraswat
devotees settled in both South and North Kanara districts. Shirali is on
the National Highway No. 17 (the highway that runs from Mumbai to
Thiruananthapuram). A large number of Karnataka and Maharashtra State
Transport buses pass through Shirali. Private transport buses using NH17
also provide facility to reach Shirali. From the main road (highway) of
Shirali, Shri Chitrapur Math is about 2 km in the interior, for which
auto-rickshaws are available. Distances to Shirali from some of the
major cities are: Bangalore 506 km Goa (Panaji) 225 km Mangalore 156 km
Mumbai 952 km Pune 780 km. On the Konkan Railway line, the nearest
railway stations are Murdeshwar and Bhatkal (both about 6 km from
Shirali to the north and south respectively). Autorickshaws, buses and
other modes of road transport are available to reach Shirali from either
of the railway stations. The Manglore-Verna stops at Chitrapur station
at 9.39 a.m.and Verna-M'lore trains stops at 17:03 p.m. The nearest
airport is Mangalore (156 km) and the next closest is Dabolim, Goa (200
km). About Math.
The village
Chitrapur in Shirali has been the seat of the Spiritual Head of "Chitrapur
Saraswats" community since 1757. The
Math at Shirali has also Samadhis of six of their Gurus, the other four
being located at Gokarn, Mallapur and Mangalore (in Karnataka) and at
Karla (in Maharashtra).
Lord Bhavanishankar is the
deity installed at each of the principal Samadhis. In Shirali, the
principal Samadhi, or the Hodi Samadhi, at it is known is of Shri
Shankarashram Swamiji-I .
Shri Shankarashram Swami belonged to the family of
Haritekars. He was adopted and ordained by Shri Parijnanashram Swami in
1720 (Sharvari Chaitra Sh-15). He was a learned saint and a great
Sanskrit scholar, having had the good fortune of long training under His
Guru. A solemn promise was made to Him by Chitrapur Saraswat people in
writing that they would be faithful to Him and would follow all His
religious observances. In His advanced age, H.H. Shankarashram Swamiji
was on His way from Udupi to
Gokarn and while
in Shirali, at the residence of Nagarkattikars, He fell seriously ill
and attained Samadhi in 1757 (Ananda, Phalgun Sh-5). Eventually, when
the question of location of His Samadhi came up, the Nagarkattikars
readily offered their house for the Samadhi and the temple.
Shri Shankarashram-I
having attained Samadhi suddenly, without adopting any shishya, caused
anxiety among the followers. The local authorities threatened to attach
all the assets belonging to the Math. At this juncture some elders
recalled that a saintly person from Pandit family, who had earlier been
ordained by the Swamiji was in Kollur, practising Yoga and would be a
worthy successor. When approached and earnestly prayed, He graciously
agreed to succeed to the Peetha. He was Shri Parijnanashram-II. He
however did not like to wield the power. He therefore adopted a shishya
(disciple) from Shukla family with the yogapatta of Shri Shankarashram-II,
and spend greater part of His life in Kollur, though He often visited
Shri Chitrapur Math. Samadhi of Shri Parijnanashram-II is located at the
right side of the Hodi Samadhi. The Samadhi of Swami Shankarashram-II is
located in Mallapur.He was a great scholar, a yogi and was regarded and
revered as an avataar of Shri Dattatreya. The shishya adopted by Him was
from Talgeri family and was given the yogapatta of Shri Keshavashram.
Being an able administrator, Shri Keshavashram began acquiring landed
properties for the Math and later He attained Samadhi in 1823 and it is
located on the right hand corner of the line of Samadhis (No. 3 in the
diagram). Before attaining Samadhi Swami Keshavashram ordained a young
shishya from Shukla family under the name Shri Vamanashram. He was very
simple and quiet, and because of His intense leaning towards
spirituality He entrusted all the affairs of the Math to the Shukla
Bhats who were the managers. He attained Samadhi in Mangalore. He had
adopted shishya from Nagarkar family. As a boy named Parameshwar, He was
found to possess some rajachinhas on his face. Shri Vamanashram ordained
him as a shishya under the title of Shri Krishnashram. It was during the
regime of Shri Krishnashram that the affairs of the Math were set right
with the help of the then paripatyagar. Most of the disciples were
brought round from Vaishnava practices, fresh landed properties and
assets were added and many reforms were brought into force. The car
festival was started during His long and glorious regime, at the
instance of His shishya. He was a great Sanskrit scholar and was
regarded as patron saint of people in Shirali and adjoining villages and
towns. His shishya was Shri Pandurangashram. Samadhi of Shri
Krishnashram is between the Samadhi of Shri Parijnanashram-II and Shri
Keshavashram Swamis. The eighth Swami, Shri Pandurangashram also came
from the Nagarkar family. Even in His tender age, He was intelligent,
quick-witted and strong willed. He was ordained at the age of 12 and had
the benefit of training and guidance under the tutelage of His able
Guruswami for 5 years, and His reign as Mathadhipati was among the
longest. During His period, the greater part of the Math was rebuilt and
all the Samadhis of His predecessors were reconstructed with
tamrashashan. A big tank, Shiv-Ganga Sarovar near the Math was dug and 'Panchavati',
a tall building on the Govardhan Hill was constructed. Chitrapur village
was almost planned and built with schools for the children, Post Office
with the quarters for the Postmaster, market etc. Credit for starting
the Rathotsava primarily goes to Him. He was a great Sanskrit scholar
and a jyotishi too. He attained Samadhi in 1915 (Rakshasa Jyeshtha Sh-2)
and the Samadhi is located on the left of the Hodi Samadhi, near the
Ganapati shrine. His successor, Shri Anandashram Swamiji was ordained
hardly 8 days prior to the Mahasamadhi of Shri Pandurangashram Swamiji.
Having been ordained at very young age, he did not have the benefit of
the guidance of His Guruswami. Yet being exceptionally brilliant, He
Himself sought knowledge from every source possible. With His pleasing
personality and brilliant and learned discourses, He won the hearts of
the community. During the earlier period of His reign, the financial
position of the Math dwindled, and then the elders of the community
under the leadership of late Shri H. Shankar Rau formed a new
Constitution for the Math administration and strengthened the financial
position of the Math. During the long period of His reign, Shri
Anandashram Swamiji travelled widely and thus the members of the
community were attracted towards the Math. He attained Samadhi in
Bangalore in 1966 (Prabhava Bha. Sh-3) and His Samadhi stands in Shirali
next to that of His Guru. In 1959, Shri Anandashram adopted a shishya
from Shukla family and named Him Shri Parijnanashram-III. He was very
intelligent, had progressive outlook and keen thirst for knowledge -
Vedic as well as technical. He restarted Rathotsava, which was earlier
discontinued for economic reasons. Swami Parijnanashram installed a
wireless station and Observatory near Panchavati and also collected
antiques and artifacts to set up a Museum. As the Spiritual Head of
Shree Trust, He started a school for the handicapped in Bolinj at Virar
near Mumbai, which is regarded as a unique institution of its kind.
Swami Parijnanashram-III attained Samadhi in Bangalore in 1991 (Prajapati
Shravana Kr-4 ) and His Samadhi is located at Karla near Lonavla in
Maharashtra. The Mahaganapati Shrine is to the left of the Hodi Samadhi,
in line with the Samadhis of Shri Anandashram and Shri Pandurangashram
Swamijis.

Hadwalli
Hadwalli
which falls under Bhatkal taluk lies on the Sagar road about 20 km
from Bhatkal. It had been once the capital of the Saluvas. Shorn
of all its glory, it has since been reduced to an
anonymous hamlet. The village amidst lush foliage has interesting
Jain monuments. The Padmavati temple is one of its prized
possessions. In this temple one can see an array of statues of 24
Theerthankaras engraved in fine black polished stone, each over a
half meter tall. The beautiful bell metal statues of Yakshi,
Padmavathi, Jain, Saraswati and Brahma on horseback bear testimony
to the excellent of the artists of yore. Especially so the bell
metal icon of Ananthana Theerthankara encircled with a halo on
which are engraved the figures of 72 Threethankaras. Nearby there
are two hillocks called Chandragiri and Indragiri. Below
Chandragiri is the fine Chandranatha Basti of Vijayanagar times
with fine lathe-turned pillars. In the smaller Basadi located outside
this Basadi, we can see the transparent marble statue of
Chandranatha in standing posture. The outer column contains
engravings depicting pots, bracelets and anklets. The door with
intricate carvings depicting creepers reveal a high standard of
artistic excellence.

Kaikini
Prominent
centre of ancient times, this village of about 6,000 people, is 13
km from Bhatkal and lies along the Bhatkal-Honnavar Road. The only
basadi, is the old Parshwanatha Basadi, which houses 24
engravings. One of the inscriptions found in the Basadi testifies
to the facts that Kaikini was a busy town in far-off days, that 24
`Jananis' look after the town administration and that during
Vijayanagar period, it was a bee-hive of `Vaisya' (traders)
activities.

Marvanthe A
fairyland of scenic beauty, about 45 Kms from Bhatkal is Marvanthe,
a scenic spot. The highway bordered on either side by the Arabian
Sea and the Sauparnika River, with the Kutachadri Hills forming
the background, makes the drive an exciting experience. And at
sunset a crimson sky and golden rays reflected both in the sea and
the river convert Marvanthe into a fairy land of scenic beauty.

Chitrapur
Shri Chitrapur Math, the
renowned Parijnanashrama Swamiji's monastery, is the abode of six
samadhis at Chitrapur (Shirli). So far a lineage of ten swamijis
has been at the helm of affairs here
starting with Swami Parijnanashram ascending the Peetha in 1675.
The tenth swamiji in the lineage known as Parijnanashrama swamy
the third who died recently was an acclaimed scientist.
Around this monastery are situated the temples of Gopalkrishna,
Dattatreya, Shantadurga and Keshvanarayana. A beautiful park has
been raised in the vicinity of the Math and animals like the
deer, hare, etc., have been reared. The Shri Chitrapur museum set
up in 1973 houses a mass of archival wealth and several types of
conches, halos made of bellmetals, plates, idols made up of
ivory & sandalwood, swords, shields, spears, copperplates and a
lamp dating back to the 13th century and many other artistic
articles

Syed
Abubaker Maliki Comments
& Suggestions bhatkal@eim.ae
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Syed Abubaker Maliki,Post
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