Freeing Up Seized Cobra Baffles
by Charles "Ratdog" Greene
Mon, 17 Mar 2003

Cyclops wanted his old baffles pulled, so he could install some new ones (to be cut first).  We found that there are at least two versions of Cobra baffles.  The version on the left are what came with Cyclops' bike.  Carbon build up and rust had seized them into the pipes, so some creative "persuading" needed to be implemented.  The version on the right (purchased from a VRCC member) came with a cross bar welded to the mouth of the baffle to grab hold of during removal... much better design !
 
 
The pulling tool I ended up having success with was 1/8" wire rope, looped through the hole which the mounting screw is threaded through.  A loop is created by fastening the two ends together with some cable clamps.  As you can see, the toughest baffle to remove required a second hole to be drilled through it for final removal.  My tool ripped clean through the first hole initially.
 
 
Here's how the "tool" affixed to the baffle would look (but without the hole already being ripped through)
 
 
At the business end of the job, I looped the wire rope around the handle and head of a hand sledge (red handled one), pulled it tight, then proceeded to BEAT the hand sledge with a longer handled sledge.  NOTE... you may need to insert a screw driver against the baffle's edge and beat it inward with a sledge to "break" loose the baffle.  Having ripped through the first hole, I drilled up through the pipe's mounting screw hole to create another hole in the baffle to pull from. 
 
 
After getting the baffle about halfway out I had ripped through the second hole, but was able to work it in/out until finally removing it completely.  This was the most stubborn of the six baffles, most of the others were much easier to extract.  You may be able to simply grab hold of the baffle with a long nosed needle nose plier and pull the baffles out.
 
The next job was to hone out the pipes, removing all build up of carbon/rust, and returning them to original inside diameter.  This allows the new baffles to slide in/out with ease.  The tool of choice here was a 1 1/2" wire wheel and a 12" long bit extension attached to my heavy duty drill.  All six pipes were honed out thoroughly.  Note... the rust appearing on the outsides of the pipes is simply the residual dust from the inside honing.  A good wiping down afterwards returned them to their brilliant luster of chrome.
 
 
Each of the new baffles were also honed clean on a wire wheel before their flanges were coated with anti-seize compound, slipped into place and their mounting screws snugged into place (threads coated as well).
 
 
Now... once we can locate some muffler packing material, we can "play" with his new baffles... or simply REMOVE them altogether when some HD's need a little "in yer place" spankin'. 
 
Final note... a similar method of removal could be used for removing the oem baffles from a Valk's system if you've previously cut your piggies "flush"... instead of leaving yourself an inch or so of pipe to work with later.

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