Guwahati
(The Gateway to North-East)
 
     
 
 
 

            The name of this rapidly-growing city that is also the largest in the North- East, is apparently derived from "Guwa" (or betel-nut) and "Hatt" (meaning market). Apparently, the place was a bustling, prosperous market which attracted traders from the surrounding hills and from nearby valleys to its environs. And it was not just betel-nut that the market was famed for, though these graceful trees, which look like "arrows shot down from heaven' in the words of a visitor here, are still very much in evidence in the suburbs of the city. However, though the present name of the city denotes a practical aspect, the city itself, under different names, has had a long and glorious history. References to it, as well as descriptions of it, are to be found in the Hindu epics, as well as in the accounts of travellers of various eras. As "Pragjyotishpura" it was the "light of the East". It was a revered centre of Tantric worship. The continuing archaeological excavations at Ambari, in the heart of the city, speak of a flourishing civilization, advanced culturally as well as materially. It is the city built by the demon king Narakasura, and as such it is also a magical city. It is the place where the Mongoloid peoples from the east have met with Aryans from the west, and mingled with the Austro-Dravidians. Anthropologically, therefore, the faces seen in the city are an absorbing mix of many races.
 
 
      Guwahati is the gateway to places of beauty and interest such as Meghalaya, Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland, Kaziranga, Manas and so on. However, it is much more than merely a gateway : in its own right, it is a place of interest, with varied offerings for the tourist to the city. The first aspect of the city that strikes the visitor is the natural beauty of the place. It is ringed around on three sides by a chain of hills that stretches to the horizon. The northern side is bounded by the awesome Brahmaputra. A sight of this turbulent river at the height of the monsoons is a wonderful sight. There is lush green vegetation everywhere. Indeed, the luxuriance of the plant-life here is uniquely rich and verdant.
 
 
            One of the greatest plus-points of the city is that it has not yet become 'touristy". What it lacks in tourist infrastructure is therefore more than made up for by the fact that there no cheats to fleece the unwary traveller, no importuning touts to bother him. Of course there are a large nwnber of comfortable and reasonably-priced hotels and rest-houses in the city. Bus services are good. Rickshaw rides are an adventure in themselves, while autorickshaws, though compar- atively expensive, are a convenient mode of transport. And the people are warm-hearted, hospitable and very helpful to tourists still. Guwahati and environs are dotted with numerous places of worship. Foremost among these is the Kamakhya temple, atop the Nilachal hill near the western rim of the city. Mention of this Important shrine is made in ancient treatises. It attracts pilgrims from all over the country, especially during the 'Ambubashi" that occurs at the height of the monsoons in June. At the very peak of the hill is the "Bhuwaneshwari" temple. The architecture of both these temples, the rites and rituals associated with Tantrism which have an important seat here, are of absorbing interest to the visitor. However, even those who are neither religiously inclined nor archaeologically minded, often drive up to the top of the hill for a breath taking view of the city below, the curve of the river ahead, and the blue hills stretching hazily away to the horizon beyond. The sunset on the river, seen from this vantage point, is simply glorious. Another important temple is the Navagraha temple, also atop a hillock near the centre of the city. It is an ancient centre for the study of astrology and astronomy, and is dedicated to the nine planets.
 
               Besides, there are countless other smaller, yet historically-rich temples that dot the city, such as the Sukleswar temple on the banks of the river, the Ugratara temple in Uzanbazar and the Mangalchandi temple, again near the river. Besides, there is the beautiful Shyam Mandir, a newer structure at Noonmati in the east of the city. There is also Umananda, or the Peacock Island, a small island on the Brahmaputra that has an important Shiva Temple, and is a pilgrim centre. There are several well-run institutions worth visiting here. The Assam State Museum, at Ambari, houses important artefacts. A visit to it is a must if one is to get an idea of the richness and diversity of the regions historical past. A visit to the State Zoo-cum-Botanical Gardens, in the south of the city, is also a happy experience. This sprawling, well-maintained zoo replicates, as far as possible, the natural habitats of many of its inmates. Animals here are not usually cooped up in confining cages, but are allowed to roam free in spacious, moated enclosures. Several species seen here are success stories in conservation, and have been bred in captivity.  
                  The Botanical Gardens are a source of interest, as is the Herbarium. During the winter, autumn and spring months, an attractive Son et Lumiere show takes place in the evenings on an island on the Brahmaputra. This, too is an enriching experience. The visitor should also make it a point to take a boat or ferry ride on the river. A cruise up and down the Brahmaputra is an uplifting and peaceful experience. Another tranquil spot to visit is the Vashishtha Ashram, situated in the southernmost rim of the city on the Sandhyachall hill. Thick forests loom around the area. It is said that the sage Vashishtha had established his "Ashram" here. Three gushing rivulets, charmingly named Sandhya, Lalita and Kanta, meet at this point. The temple here is also worth a trip. Across the Brahmaputra is North Guwahati, a peaceful and historically rich place that is worth the ferry-ride across the river. Or, more prosaically, one may also go there by bus, across the Saraighat bridge. This little town is dotted with numerous temples, chief among them being the Vaishnavite shrine, Doul Gobinda. Nearby is Ashwakranta or Ashwaklanta, where a rock on the river bank holds an impression that devotees believe is the imprint of Lord Krishna's foot. The place reverberates with myths and legends dating back to ancient times. Any of the friendly locals will be happy to fill one in on the rich mythological lore of the place.  
                  Madan Kamdev (40 kms from Guwahati) is a historical spot, mention of which is made in the Yogini Tantra. Besides the temples, there are also images and icons scattered over a large area. The city is dotted with several peaceful lakes. "Dighali Pukhuri" in the centre of town, has been developed as a Tourist Centre. Its paddle boats are a popular draw. Shopping for souvenirs and gifts is best carried out in one of the several Government emporia around town. One can also shop for textiles in the numerous "Co-operative" as well as privately-owned stores in the main markets of the city. Saris or mekhela-sadors (the local two-piece garment for women) are available in a variety of colours and designs, in muga as well as paat, too silks for which Assam is famous. One can also buy these weaves in cotton. Also popular with tourists are cane and bamboo artefacts, as well as bell-metal objects. Why not take home a small rhino in bell-metal as a souvenir of your visit here? Besides, one can buy shawls and wraps in Endi, Muga or Paat. One can also buy the tribal shawls of Nagaland and Mizoram in the shops here, for a reasonable price. The heavy Lysamphuiis from Manipur make excellent throws and covers. Local Assamese jewelery, in gold, silver and gold-plated silver, encrusted with red and green stones, make very attractive and unusual souvenirs of one's stay here.  
 


OTHER PLACES IN AND AROUND :


1) MADAN KAMDEV
2)UMANANDA
3)KAMAKHYA

 
     
     

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