Clutch Cable Discussion

I seem to recall there are several cable lengths too, so I'm not sure it's even the correct cable.

The Rocky Mountain Motor Works catalog says that '62-'71 Bugs used a 2260mm cable. Kinda hard to measure it while it's in the car, though! :-) But - for future reference... They're only $6.95. The other one (I think a 2280 - which is used on some VWs) - pokes so far through the butterfly nut it just touches the engine tin. I didn't know there was a 2270, but maybe it's a universal replacement.

As far as I know the cable attaches the same. There are only two lengths of cable and both have the same "eye" on the pedal end.

On my RHD model I remove the cover plate from the left side of the tunnel (where your pedals come out) and the hook is visible at that edge of the tunnel. The clutch cable is fed in from the front to the back on all models as far as I know. Difficult to start the cable into the tube, as the threaded end doesn't allow much room to bend the cable, but not too difficult.

And knowing VW it will be the same cover plate which is moved to the left side -- they seem to be very good at designing parts which will work with both models. On the standard bugs I believe the tie rods etc. are simply reversed.

The pedal cluster is different of course. On yours the accelerator pedal axle is the outer of the nested axles and the clutch is the inner one. On mine that's reversed, the accelerator axle is the inner one, since is comes from the far right on RHD models. But the accelerator and clutch hooks end up in the same position so the cable runs are the same.

Replacing the clutch cable is not really hard. So long as the tube it runs in is OK, then it's a relatively straight forward job. The clutch tube runs the full length of the tunnel, so once you have the cable started inside the tube it feeds in easily.

You remove the pedal cluster and you'll find the front end of the clutch cable just inside the tunnel -- it has a rectangular "eye" on it which hooks over a hook on the pedal cluster.

The cable is withdrawn through the front and of course if it's broken you'll have to pull the rear section out from the rear end too.

Getting the new cable started in the tunnel tube it a bit awkward - there is only JUST enough room to get the solid threaded end in first, then the flexible part feeds through easily. It's a good idea to coat the whole cable with grease as you feed it in (making it a very messy job). It doesn't really matter what kind of grease you use, so long as it's not too heavy - otherwise it will get very sticky in snowy weather and might make the clutch operation heavier on your foot - wheel bearing grease is fine.

At the rear end the cable has to go through the clutch operating arm on the side of the gear box and then you install the wing nut (or double lock nut if you have the old style of cable).

Adjusting the slack out of the cable is difficult as there is not much working room over the gearbox, but persevere until you have the clutch working in the first half of pedal travel - not down near the floor.

I recall having trouble getting the clutch cable through the Bowden tube -- fussed and fussed with it until it dawned on me that the Bowden tube had to be removable (I'd seen replacements in the catalog).

Yes -- I vaguely remember my first attempt with my 1970 Bug in about 1980 -- it took some working out (no manual).

The cable CAN be replaced without removing the Bowden tube, but if the sag in the tube needs adjusting, it has to be removed.