The following topics related to disc brakes are discussed herein -
Dave wrote to Rob –
You have disc brakes on the front!?
Rob responded –
Yes. I never could understand why they gave you bigger engines first in the US(in 1970 you got the 1600cc, we kept the 1500cc), but left you with drums on the front brakes. I suspect (but I'm not sure for certain) that it was a cost thing -- you also got the double joint (IRS) rear suspension in ‘68. Here only the autos got it, and we had to wait until ‘71 and the Super to get the IRS. It’s like -- the US wants a better suspension, so they get the IRS, but to keep the cost down we'll leave them with drums. You got reversing lights, rear window demister and double joint rear axle before anyone else -- and the drum brakes DO work OK I guess.
The pads last a LONG time -- just three replacement sets of pads so far. And I have NEVER had to replace any of the seals/calipers etc. in my disc brakes. The discs are now getting a bit too shiny -- I'll get them machined when I do the car up. That will be the first time for machining too.
Another thing you (and I) can do to improve brakes is to fit Type 3 rear drums. These have wider shoes, but apparently they fit straight on. I haven't bothered because mine seem to be OK (they need machining too now though), but I believe it can make a big difference, and the performance boys usually go this route.
Rob wrote -
The conversion is easy enough with a conversion kit I believe. There are several types of VW disc sets though. Mine are identical to the Type3 units from about 66 they have single retaining pins on the pads. A later version has two pins. Doesn't matter which you have, they both work VERY well. The original master cylinder can be used, but there is a specific one for the discs -- it uses a different method of bleed holes inside the cylinder to move brake fluid back into the reservoir. There is no fade with disc brakes -- even when pulling a big load (I've done THAT a few times). You'd like the disk brakes -- they feel very 'solid'. Gives the VW confident braking.
Dave wrote -
I’ve been able to improve the brakes significantly, but I’m still not satisfied with them. I have quite a complete set of instructions, with pictures, on how to install disk brakes on the front of a Super Beetle -- it doesn’t look all that hard. I looked in the RMMW catalog for disc brake kits -- they have them ($445) but only for Standards, not Supers. I noticed an ad in VW Trends for a the kit for Supers -- about $395 as I recall. A kits from TopLine Parts runs about $350 American. Spendy!
Advice from John Connolly (Aircooled.Net) regarding conversion to disc brakes -
Convert to front disc brakes: Plan on three hours. Super beetle and 4-lug Standare Beetles alike will really benefit from this upgrade (especially if you are planning on increasing your driving speed with engine and suspension modifications). There are two distinct advantages to disc brakes:
NO master cylinder change is required. Consider adding stainless brake hoses while you are at it; these swell less for a firmer pedal and better feel. 4-lug car owners should also consider changing rear brakes to the type 3 units; scrounge the junkyard and get everything from the backing plate out. They bolt right on and are about twice as effective as your stock units, and retain your stock emergency brake.
Dave wrote -
The kits come with everything, of course -- I wonder how difficult it would be to take the disc brakes from one car and install them on another with drum brakes.
Rob wrote -
I wandered into a wreckers yesterday and found a complete front disc brake assembly which would fit your car. They are complete assemblies still on a VW, there would not be any missing parts. There is not much to them really -- the spindle (I don't know if that's different to the drum spindles), the disc, the caliper. The brake lines are the same as far as I know, and your master cylinder should work OK since the newer types are "universal" (the first disc master cylinders were the same size but had a different pressure relief system to the drums).
Rob reported the change out of the front disc pads on his Bug -
I changed the front disc pads on the weekend. You remember me saying it was pulling to the left a little under brakes. When I pulled them I realised that worn pads were the probably cause -- the inner pads were wafer thin. I didn't have any new pads available and tried a couple of local auto shops on the off chance... (my "one pin" pads are Bendix DB23, which are also used by some early Alfas) but no luck, so I borrowed the 1/2 worn pads from my other Bug (currently not drivable). Big difference -- nice smooth brakes now. I should really get the discs machined too - they are a little too mirror like and not as flat as they should be. I'd love to do that myself -- I have access to an excellent lathe -- we'll see.
Disclaimer stuff: Rob and Dave have prepared this information from their own experiences. We have not assumed any specialised mechanical knowledge, but we DO assume that anyone using this information has at least some basic mechanical ability.
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Last revised 4 May 2004.
