BUYING A USED 200 SERIES VOLVO by Rob Funnekotter
Have you ever made an uninformed car purchase, only to find out you picked up a
third-degree lemon? I know I have. It's a hard and costly pill to swallow.
In today's tough economic times, a used Volvo may be the only answer. With the
demise of the 200 series, many are choosing a second-hand 240 as an
alternative. One should be extremely cautious when purchasing a used Volvo
because many previous owners fall prey to the old "Drive it Like you Hate it"
attitude. In turn, the following owner receives the brunt of that mentality, be
it structural damage from poor undercoating, or hidden engine damage due to
infrequent oil changes.
If you are considering the purchase of a used 240, please heed the following.
First of all, if you are of the opinion that high mileage doesn't matter
because Volvos last forever, LOSE IT. Regardless of what others may tell you,
high mileage takes a serious toll on any engine. Preventative maintenance
however, can prolong the life of an engine considerably. If the car has been
predominantly driven on the highway, and oil changes have been carried out at
regular 3000 kilometre intervals, the wear factor decreases. For example, my
last Volvo had 468,000 kilometres when I sold it. The compression at the point
of sale was 175 p.s.i. per cylinder, Which is very good for a car with that
high mileage. The original clutch lasted 426,000 kilometres. This car had oil
changes regularly and was driven mostly on the highway. Therefore, ask the
owner how often the oil gets changed. A good way to check for poor oil
maintenance is to unscrew the oil filler cap on the valve cover and take a look
inside. If there is a grunge buildup, chances are the oil wasn't changed
regularly. Look at the bottom of the filler cap itself. If the oil appears
chocolate milk-like in colour, chances are that this car is a short-trip
vehicle. This oil condition is due to the engine never reaching 100 degrees
celsius, so any water in the engine doesn't get a chance to evaporate, thus
leaving it free to circulate in the oil giving it this colour. An engine in
this condition could cause future problems and empty pockets.
While you are under the hood, check for Volvo-original replacement parts such
as the oil filter and the in-line gas filter( the label should read Volvo or
Bosch.) If aftermarket parts have been used, check with your favourite Volvo
mechanic about the effectiveness of that particular brand. Check for oil or
coolant leaks. An oil leak could indicate a problem with the positive crankcase
ventilation ( PCV ) system. A blockage in the hoses or a dirty screen or flame
trap can cause back-pressure in the system, resulting in blown gaskets and/or
engine seals.
Try to get a service history of the car to find out what has and hasn't been
repaired since it was new. For example, if the car has over 200,000 kilometres
on it and the service records do not indicate a clutch replacement, you can
count on replacing it shortly ( up to a $600 bill for the unsuspecting new
owner.) Look for recent bills with high-ticket parts and/or labour such as
transmission work or rear-end bushing replacement. The more work done, the less
you have to shell out in the near future. Check for frequency of tune-ups
because an engine that runs efficiently is subject to less wear. The timing
belt should have been replaced a few times as well, depending of course on the
age of the car and the number of kilometres on the clock. The cooling system
should have been flushed regularly as well.
Fuel injection is the best form of fuel delivery for street use today. It
marries high performance and fuel economy, two words not often used in the same
sentence before fuel injection was developed. Volvo incorporated several
different Bosch injection systems into the 240 line. The"F" series injection
(B21F, B23F, B230F) for example, delivers excellent fuel economy with moderate
engine power, while the "E" series ( B23E) combines high engine output and
low-end torque with moderate fuel economy. There is a label indicating engine
type on the driver's side shock tower. Consider your performance requirements
while checking engine type. If the car is a turbo model, the letter designation
will be "B21FT," or "B23FT" which brings me to my next point.
If a high-output engine is a priority for your next 240, a turbocharged model
might be right up your alley. The only turbocharged 200 series Volvos available
were the 1981 through 1984 GLT models. In 1984, an intercooled turbo was
available for those on a quest for even more power. Beware of turbos! Though
extremely fast, they were subject to rapid wear due to the scorching heat as
well as bearing wear and improper use. Regular oil changes are extremely
important for turbocharged engines.
Although Volvo produced a V-6, you would be wise to stay away from them. Yes,
they are significantly more powerful than the fours but they are also prone to
expensive camshaft failure if oil changes aren't done religiously.
Another touchy area of the 240 is the electrical system. There is a drainage
channel in the unibody behind the two front fenders. Blockages can occur in
these channels causing salt water to corrode the unibody wall. Behind the left
wall sits the fuse box. Once a hole has formed, water gets into the fuse box
causing massive corrosion. A leaking windshield can also cause this. To check
if the fuse box has been infected with the corrosion virus, simply remove the
fuse box door and look closely for white or green deposits on the contacts.
This small task might save you a tremendous amount of grief and money in the
long run. Make sure the heater fan works properly and quietly. It is very
expensive to replace. In addition, try the wipers and the washer to ensure
their proper function. If the wipers knock loudly, either the pivot shafts are
seized or the wiper motor might need replacement. All instruments should be
fully functional. Check the engine wiring harnesses as well. The insulation
tends to crumble off with time, causing shorts in the system. These shorts can
disable the charging system, and can give you false engine temperature and oil
pressure readings. Check all lights for proper function, paying particular
attention to back-up lights.
Like any other vehicle on the road, Volvos are prone to rust. A well maintained
Volvo however, can retain its structural integrity quite nicely. There are
several areas of the body, some hidden, some not, to keep your eye out for. The
floors, fender edges, lower doors, rocker panels, hatch( wagon,) hood and spare
wheel containers tend to rust badly. Watch for holes! Probably the most
overlooked area of rust on the 200s and the most detrimental to passenger
safety, is the lip just above the rear bumper. The upper-bumper rubber slides
onto this lip to hold it in place. The big problem with this system is the salt
water that gets trapped under the lip. Rust forms and holes are soon to follow.
Carbon monoxide from the exhaust is then free to enter the trunk and eventually
the passenger compartment as well. Check this area very carefully. Due to a
design flaw which, incidentally, Volvo never corrected throughout the entire
200 series run, the area surrounding the license plate lights rusts to the
point that the lights can actually fall out! Shock towers are another part of
the body commonly overlooked by a prospective buyer. Inspect them thoroughly
for rust. Inspect the sunroof for rust, particularly if the car is
air-conditioned. Look for floor mats. This can make all the difference when you
consider what salt and snow can do to the outside of a car. No mats could mean
a badly rusted inner floor. Give each door a "lift" to see if the hinges are
worn out.
Have your mechanic look at the car closely before you make your decision.
Components such as brakes, steering, suspension, fuel system and universal
joints can be checked at this time as well as engine compression and fuel
management.
Drive the car. Is it comfortable? Is the performance geared to your needs? If
it is a four speed with electronic overdrive, make sure the overdrive engages
firmly and immediately. Check the seatbelts for fraying and proper function. If
there is a sunroof, try it to make sure it works properly. Make sure the hand
brake works. Listen for ticks, rattles and clunks coming from inside or outside
and ask your mechanic about them. Often, clunking noises will originate from
the control arm bushings, universal joints, or the center hanger bearing on the
driveshaft. In order to test the clutch, lumber along at approximately 20 k/ph.
Leaving your foot on the gas, depress the clutch pedal and quickly release it.
The car should give you a considerable kick if the clutch is in good shape. Let
go of the steering wheel and note whether the car veers in either direction. If
it does, and the tire pressures are even, the car will need an alignment.
Have a lien check done to protect yourself from unneeded debt. A trip to the
land registry office and $6 is a worthwhile investment for your protection.
These are just a few helpful tips on buying a used 240. Your mechanic will
probably have others. If you have any questions, my e-mail address is
robandsue@igs.net
Last updated: 29 January, 1996rdoherty@opal.vcu.edu
(
geocities.com/vyque)