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Cage should be large enough for the ferret to stretch and for limited play even though he may sleep most of the time that he is confined. It should be large enough to provide room for a litterbox, an area for food and water, and an area for sleeping. A cage measuring about 3 feet by 3 feet deep by 2 feet high will comfortably house one or two ferrets.
In the cage, you'll want some sort of "bedroom" for your pet. A ferret won't be very happy sleeping on the open floor of a cage, even on a towel or shirt, but any small cardboard box or basket works well as a bedroom. Old T-shirts and sweatshirts make excellent bedding, as long as they aren't too easily chewed to bits. Old towels usually work well too, though some ferrets tend to get their nails caught in the loops.
Any kind of litter meant for cats is okay for ferrets. You and your ferret may prefer one to another, since they all control or cover odors differently, track more or less dust, cost more or less, and so forth. Many people favor pelleted wood litters. Regular cat litterboxes can be used also. A sometimes better and cheaper solution is to use a small, rubber dish pan with one side cut to about 1-2 inches high. The higher sides of the pan will help prevent "overshoots."
Ferrets seem to love toys that squeak. Normally these are made of vinyl rubber. The major problem with these toys is the ferret's sharp teeth. Ferrets will, in very short order, puncture and tear the toy. The risk is high for ingestion of the pieces and possible intestinal blockage. Cat toys work well for ferrets, again you need to be sure they don't have any small, removable parts. You can put the toy in an old sock and tying a knot in the end of the sock to keep the toy in where it can't be eaten. Not only does it protect the toy itself, but the sock is a toy all by itself.Most ferrets enjoy playing in a hammock made from a piece of cloth and some metal eyelets, and the leg from an old pair of jeans will be fun to crawl through or nap in. For other toys, try umbrellas, bathrobe belts, tennis balls, golf balls, ping-pong balls, film canisters (rinsed to wash out any chemicals), or old socks with bells rolled up in them. Plastic shopping bags are popular, but watch to be sure your pets don't suffocate or eat the plastic. Cardboard boxes are also fun, especially several nested together with ferret-sized holes cut at various places. Plastic bottles can be turned into clear ferret play-tubes by cutting off their tops and taping them together. Carpet-roll tubes and tunnels made of plastic pipe, dryer hose, or black drainage tubing are popular too.
The domestic ferret will thrive on a premium dry ferret food or, if that's not available in your area, a premium kitten food. Keep in mind, though, that cats and ferrets have differing nutritional needs and cat/kitten foods will not completely satisfy the dietary needs of a ferret. Soft cat food is not good for ferrets, partly because it generally contains much less protein than the dry kind and partly because it isn't hard enough to rub plaque off their teeth and can lead to tooth decay. However, very young kits and those recovering from illness or surgery may need their food moistened with water for a week or two. Note that moistened food spoils much more quickly than the same food left dry, so dump out leftovers every day.
Most pet store ferrets will have received the initial vaccination from the breeder at about 6-8 weeks of age. Some pet stores promote this initial vaccination as "the ferret has had all of it's vaccinations." This is definitely NOT true. A booster is required by 11 weeks of age, and another at about 14 weeks of age. There is a general agreement that the ferret be re-vaccinated every year after that.Ferrets also should be inoculated against rabies. The only current USDA approved vaccine is IMRAB-3, a killed virus vaccine. This should be the only vaccine used since it is the only one recognized by the Government. Vaccination is recommended after 14 weeks of age and annually thereafter. Ask the veterinarian for a certificate of vaccination. Make sure that the certificate states that IMRAB-3 has been used.
Sizing the collar
For either of the collars, you may need to make an extra hole, then trim off the extra length and (for nylon) melt the end together. Be sure to leave enough to go through the little ring after it's buckled. For the ball chain (the kind made for light-pulls or to lift the stopper in a toilet), just snip it to the proper length. The collar should be loose enough to go over your ferret's head easily; if it gets stuck on something, better a lost collar than a choked ferret.
We've never had any problems with any of our ferrets getting hurt by catching their collars in anything, but we make sure to leave them loose enough that the furry snakes can slip out if they happen to get caught. In fact, the easiest way we've found to get the collars on is to fasten them, then shove them over the ferrets' heads while occupying them with Ferretone.
The cord-like figure-8 leash with a screw for adjustments, sold wrapped around a cardboard cutout of a ferret, isn't the best choice for a leash. It's too easy to get out of and too hard to adjust, the adjustment nut can break, and the cord can chafe the ferret. A flat nylon H-type harness with a leash clipped to the back will work much better. Several people have recommended the harnesses made by Marshall Pet Products.Tags and collars are handy for nearly all ferrets. Ours have never gotten out, but even just around the house it gives enormous peace of mind to be able to tell where they are!
Please feel free to email us if you have questions.
