AEG: Batteries/Chargers

Batteries:

Battery size should be considered when purchasing and upgrading AEG's.  Smaller stick and mini batteries should not be used in upgraded guns.  They will have a hard time making the mechbox turn over and they will not last long.  Overpowered guns can push a mechbox so fast that you easily risk gear and piston striping.

I have always chosen to buy/recommend AEG's with large battery storage.  I also highly recommend custom batteries for certain AEG's, such as this one for the MP5SD forgrip:

I'm particularly fond of custom batteries that require no modification.  I generally run a 9.6 volt 1700mAh NiCad battery in my HK51.  It's a specialty pack made with "4/5" sized cells (slightly shorter than normal cells, but just as big in diameter).  Because of their size, a 9.6v(8cell) battery is slightly shorter than a normal sized cell 8.4v(7cell) battery, and believe me, that extra cell is worth the sacrifice of a higher top mAh.  This battery made it so I did not have to modify my stock.  It is also a nicer size battery for replicas with tight fitting battery compartments, like the Fa-Mas and AK-47.

If you have a replica with small battery storage, there are a few options.  A "battery bag" is a common choice.  A pouch, such as an on the stock extra magazine pouch, can disguise a battery.  Then just run some extra wire out from the forgrip/wherever.  A poor mans option is to leave off the top half of the forgrip and use some electrical tape/athletic tape/rubber bands/whatever(do not use duct tape because it may leave residue).  My friend mistakenly bought a specialty 9.6v M4 battery for his XM177(doesn't work because the XM's forgrip is skinnier).  He went for a while with leaving the top half of his grip off, but then he decided he wanted the full forgrip, so he ran the wire out through a drilled hole near the back of the forgrip to his battery placed within the carry handle.  Doesn't look great, but it's much better than before.

NiMH vs. NiCad:  I have not done to much research on this subject, but here is my basic understanding.  NiCad's have an edge in that they can dump their power slightly faster than NiMH, they can take quick charging better, and they retain their power better(although you do not want to store them partially/fully charged).  NiMH's main advantage is that they do not have "battery memory."  You do not have to fully discharge before charging, don't need to worry about letting it completely charge before you yank it off the charger, and you can get them with higher mAh ratings.  The problems with them include quick charging and the ability to retain charge.  I once heard my brother say they lose approximately 5% of their remaining charge a day(don't hold me to that though, after all that was my brother, hehe).
 

Chargers:

Having a good charger is important.  A good charger can keep your battery in good condition and make sure you get maximum charge.  "Peak" chargers ensure proper charging and they make it easy for the lazy person who doesn't want to sit there and guess the charge from battery temperature.  R/C hobby stores such as Tower Hobbies are a good place to look for chargers.  Aside from being a peak charger, look for features like:

• AC/DC ability--AC for charging at home and DC for charging off of your car at the field.
• Discharger function--good for NiCad users.  Get one that has an automatic cut-off so that it won't over discharge.  A discharger can also be purchased separately.
• Voltage & mAh ratings high enough for your battery--many R/C cars are run on 7.2v batteries, so the chargers may not be made for 8.4 or 9.6 volt batteries.

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