Third Revision September 2002
LIFE IN SINGAPORE
Well I have been living here in Singapore for more then 1 year now so I thought I would share some more of my thoughts about this island country with you. Since I started coming here back in 1999 on a regular basic when I was in the Navy I see Singapore in a much different light now. Mostly due to the fact that I have had a chance to get out more and learn about the surrounding unlike when I was just here on my 1 or 2 week visit from my duty station. Back then when I came to Singapore it was a get away for my from an isolated island duty station on Diego Garcia while I was in the U. S. Navy, so coming to Singapore was my only really contact with what we called the, “real world!” Like those before me I can as a tourist to see the sights, have a few beers, good food and check out the place (I.E. the clubs). The good part for me was that I meet my future wife on my second stay in Singapore so she made a great tour guide for me around the city for me. We would spend hours walking around the city going to different places and seeing all the there was to see. What I really like about it here is that you don’t need a car to get from place to place. There are plenty of cabs, buses and the MRT (Mass Rapid Transit) which will take you from in end of the island to the other and go to most places you’ll want to get to.
Transportation
The cabs are all metered and there are plenty of them so you don’t have to worry about getting ripped off like in other Asian countries I have been to. One thing to check is the charges that apply to for the cabs during different time of day, pick hours, holidays, and after midnight. To give you and example, after midnight there is a 50% charge added to what ever the fare is, so if you find your self running short of cash you don’t want to get caught out there after that time depending on where you live this could be a problem for you. Most likely it would be due to the location where most of the hotels are and the area that you’ll be in. To get a cab you'll find cab stands or you can just hale one from the side walk by holding out your hand above your head and waving. If you see one with the roof light off it has a customer on the older cab, the newer ones will say, "for hire" or "busy". Singapore has also started to enforce the rear seat belt laws so to avoid the fine be sure to use them, a good point to remember if traveling with children that require a child safety seat although I am not sure how this applies you should call one of the companies to check first.
Comfort Taxis - 6555-1188, Citycab - 6553-3880, Tibs Taxis - 6369-0001
To use the MRT you purchase a MRT card from the booth
located in all the stations or you can buy a one way ticket for the machines. If
you use a one way ticket get it right before you get on the train because they
are times and may run out before you use it if you wait to long. The MRT cards
will cost you between S$12 and S$15. You can add as much to the card
as
you like depending on long you plan to be in country, you can return your card
for cash before you leave. It is best to only put about S$20 on the card just
incase you should misplace it. The MRT card is used for both trains and
buses so you don't have to worry about having two different cards to get around
the country. Trains run about every 5 to 7 minutes so catching one is not
a problem with breakdowns being very rare. If you are in one of the 2 main train
interchanges (City hall and Raffles) be sure
you are on the correct level going in the right direction. To check, look at the
map located in the loading area, it will show the direction of the train
and the stations it will be stopping it. During rush hour in the morning (7
to 9) the trains will be packed full, so if you don't want to deal
with the crowds avoid that time frame when heading into the city area. The work
on the third MRT line is coming to a close soon which will be a nice addition to
the already exciting line running from the World Trade Center the up though
Chinatown and Clarke Quay followed but Orchard Road, Little India and
ending on the North East side of the island close to the Punggol Marina. So this
line will be a welcome site to those that live in a line the new line.
MRT trains depart the 4 main stations (east, west, north and south lines) around midnight so depending on where you are in the city would determine when the train reaches your location to get you home. The stations have signs saying when the last train will depart from that location if not just ask one of the workers in the control station. The MRT now goes to the airport at Changi so if you have been here before and have an ideal where you are going you can take that vice the cab and save about S$15 in cab fare to your hotel.
Buses run the same as the MRT but no time listed of the last one. So now you can see how the cabs have a racket on the 50% fares charge after midnight with everything shutting down. One more thing on the cabs you may find it hard as hell to get a cab starting about 11:45 pm. They tend to hide out until midnight to start to pick up customers for the added fare charge.
Hotels and Motels
Being such a small place Singapore has some outstanding
hotels and fairly good deals due to the exchange rate right now of S$1.70 to
1.80 to 1.00 USD. You can get a 5 star hotel for S$165 and up. There are plenty
here to choose from too and all in the central area of the city so just about
everything is
with
in walking distance if you are up to it. On the on other end you have budget
motels throughout the city that will range from S$8 for a backpackers place to
S$69 for a nice budget motel like Hotel 81 in the Geylang area. Some of the
smaller motel can be quite cheap in the way the rooms are as many are use be the
working girls throughout the city for short time trips, hourly rates apply in
many of these motels but the government is trying to stop this practice. You’ll
need your passport to check into the high class hotels while just about any kind
of ID will get you into a motel. There are plenty of web sites that list the
hotels in Singapore and many give great rates for internet reservations so it is
worth checking them out. If all you need is a place to lay your head down for a
night sleep then check out the Geylang area to meet your need. One of the
biggest cost you'll have while in Singapore will be for your hotel. So if
you cover come that obstacle then you'll have more cash in hand for other
things.
The locals
I have found most everyone to be very friendly and helpful here. Crime here is very low but it is still present so you should take care when out on the town. Singapore has its gangs like anywhere else along with its pick-pockets and other low lives. Orchard Road and Suntec City Mall has be having more than its share of pick pockets this year (2002). I have never had any problem but that is just me. Maybe my travels around Asia have given me sixth sense about traveling around and avoiding trouble.
You’ll find that Singapore that a mix of just about everyone in Asia here. Many of the construction workers here are from India, Malaysia, Indonesia and Thailand to mention a few places. Maids working here are from the Philippines, Malaysia and Indonesia. Most of the imported workers work 6 days a week on meager wages (S$300 to 800 per month) doing the work that the Singaporeans don’t want to do. So for most of them Sundays are their day off and you’ll find them throughout the city mingling together on Orchard Road around the malls or other locations. You’ll know then when you see them because there will be masses of people just standing around talking, having picnics or doing what ever.
As for the Singaporean, I find them pretty complacent for the most part. There is a need to establish one self before getting married here so many of the younger people (18 to 35) are single and available for dating. You can go in many of the clubs and find plenty of people to talk with that are out on the town with friends most of the same gender. I can’t figure this out because there are a lot of great looking girls here and I never or hardly see them approached the guys in the clubs. It may be from the discouragement of dating at a young age (secondary school) thus they don't develop the skill for dating that others do in different countries, but this is just my opinion. Plus living at home until they marry has to have its affects also on how people date here one would also think. One thing you don’t see here is the drinkers like I am use to seeing in the states or even Japan so this is hard on the clubs here and many small places do not last for long or changes management often to try to survive.
Back in November 2002 there was a article about the SPG's (surong party girls) and how they where attracted to the Expat males here. I think it was all blown out of proportion myself because I have seen this all over the world when it comes to guys from different places in a country. So yes, you have that action going on here in Singapore to just so you know and want to try your luck with a local girl.
People here love to travel too, as I walk around I’ll see Hard Rock Tee-shirts from every where around the world and if you talk to many you’ll find that they have been to at least 2 or 3 other countries if not more. A few of the girls I have talked with had European, Australian or American boy friends at one point or another. So if you hit the club seen don’t feel you will be singled out because you are not a local everyone had a fair chance here in Singapore. Yet I will add that some clubs you may have better luck depending on your race. Its just the way it is like every where you travel to, it's not the rule it's just human nature I guess. All I can say is go out and have a good time anyway and you'll do fine here.
Tourist season is from December to March for the most part but there is always someone coming here. The big deal is when the U.S. Navy pulls with one of it's aircraft carriers and 5,000 guys hit the town. A few days before the news paper will let the country know what ship is pulling in and to take care of your girls. It was funny as heel to read and what was said. (I should have saved it) most of the guys will head for Orchard Road, Boat Quay or Clark Quay, these are the best known party areas to the fleet guys so other parts of the city go relatively untouched by sailors during their stay. Orchard Road will be teaming with the guys looking to meet anyone they can and as much as I hate to say it they do it in the normal loud American way most of the time. It’s not as bad as it use to be but you can always tell when Navy man is in the club. This makes it easy for the Singapore Party girls (SPG’s) to seek them out and start the partying that is more that welcome from the lonely souls on liberty.
Due to the weather 33c to 36c (80 to 90f) during the day here the cloth that are worn are light and colorful but black seem to be a favor color of many of the ladies while on the town. You can se it all here too from the hip hugger pants to the mini skirt with the platform shoes. What ever you seek you can find here in Singapore in the way of fashion. The discos have dress codes so it is best to call before hand to make sure you are wearing the appropriate attire, this is usually just a shirt with a collar and slacks so that shouldn't be a problem for anyone. The pubs, well just about anything goes in them when you figure that just about everyone lives in shorts and sandals anyway. One last thing, don't forget your umbrella it can come in handy while waling around or for the rain that can come at anytime so get a small one that can fit into you backpack so you will not have to carry it when it is not needed.
The family units
Since there is a shortage of land in Singapore most of
the population lives in housing units call “flats”, these can be anywhere for 1
to 5 bedroom in size in high rises that average 16 floors or more. To buy a flat
you have to be married or above the age of 35 if a Singaporean because of the
shortage of flats and the time needed to build more. So because of this kids
have to live at home until their days come. This makes the family a tight
group
in most cases. While Singapore is a fairly new country (1965)
many of its roots are from China or Malaysia which Singapore was a part of until
it independence. So for the age group that was born after 65 life has been
different that for those that migrated here over the years and helped to make
the country when times where a lot harder. So the people that grew up here have
had a fairly easy life with cheap family housing available for first time buyer
and the good economy that the country had for such a long time. Jobs where
plentiful and just about everyone worked! Well now that is not the case with the
things changing in the area and companies cutting back on workers. Many older
workers find it hard to get reemployment due to their age and the market is more
geared to younger workers that will be with the companies for a long time and
have come out of collage while many of their predecessors had only secondary
education.
Singapore is all about is all about making money first and foremost! “If it doesn’t make money it not Singapore” a cab driver told me one night and he was dead right too. You see this everywhere if you look. Everyone works to get save up to buy a flat, 300,000 for a nice place. If you want a car well that is another matter. That $20,000 car in the states will cost you about $45,000 here and another 2,000 just to get your Driver License. So when you figure that the average Singaporean makes from S$2500 to 3,500 a month that is a lot of saving. But when you live at home and have only a few bills it shouldn’t be that hard to save.
The Water
For those of use that come from the Untied States drinking water is never a question but here in Singapore it is a different story. As developed as Singapore is the residents still need to boil their water before drinking it. At first I didn't notice the little things I took for granted in the states, like drinking fountains for example. The whole time I have been here and all the places I have gone I have yet to see one anywhere. When you check into your hotel you will have you 2 to 3 bottles of water and a electric water heater which I guess is for making your own water as well as your morning coffee or tea. So is it safe to drink? I really couldn't tell you if is or isn't. For my self I haven't had any problems when drinking it that I know of and I drank more than my share when I first got here. I have to add that I had all my shots from the Navy too so that may have been my saving grace. In September the government introduced what they called "New Water", this is water that has been processed and is clean for drinking straight from the tap. when it will be island wide is still unknown but at least it is on the way at last.
I wanted to add this part just so you where aware of the status of the water here. One more thing to add is that most of the water here comes down from Malaysia across the causeway that links the two countries together. Singapore buys the water cleans it up to a point then disabuses it out and even sells some of it back to Malaysia, figure that one out?
Cost of Living
When I first came here I spent money like
it was going out of style because I didn’t understand how Singapore works but
once you get the hang it you find that the cost of living here can be really
cheap.
First
off eating out in a nice restaurant can run a couple about S$75 with a few
drinks included. But at the same time you can eat at a Food court or Hawker
center for S$10. These are areas that have food stalls selling all kinds of food
and drinks. That glass of beer you paid 10 bucks for in the restaurant well get
you 2 bottles of beer or 5 glasses in the food court and that 35 dollar crab you
had can be gotten for only 15 to 18 dollars. So you see you can save a lot on
your cost while in Singapore if you know where to eat at.
Using the transportation system will save you a bundle also vice taking cabs all the time. Again once you find your way around the central area you’ll see how close everything is and that you can walk to many of the spots you which to go. Plus walking give you the chance to see all the small places you miss while in a cab and there are many places that can be missed that are worth seeing. From the airport to the central area in a cab will cost around 15 to 20 dollars while if you take it MRT it will only cost you $1.60, see how it adds up?
Renting a place (flat) can run from S$500 and up to S$800 for a room in someone house. If you are just on a short trip then this will not work for you but if you plan to be here for a while you may want to check out this option vice staying in a motel the whole time. You can find places in the paper or on web site for Singapore.
Singapore can be a very expensive place to live if you go about it like most tourist do but then again they are here to spend their hard earned cash on vacation. Some come here looking for deals on electronic equipment and computer items. Well from what I have found is that is just about the same in cost as anyplace else you go. You can try Sim Lim Square or Tower for your deals. It is close to Little India or the Bugis Junction MRT station which is just 2 short blocks away. You will not find any deals on Orchard Road so save your time and don’t go looking there. Another place you can try is in Little India or even China Town for your deals. These shops are more like mom and pop shops and a lot friendlier too so you may be able to swing a deal if your skills are up to it. With the economy being what it is they want to make the sale so you have that on your side. Another place you can try is around the housing blocks and smaller malls where you can also find street fairs where they will set up for a week or so to sell their good. These move around from place to place so you might have a hard time finding one. If you do just ask a cabbie and he should be able to take you to one or two of them.
If you are looking for the CD games
or programs at discounted prices (pirated software)
it can be found in Singapore but is illegal to sell or have. From time to time
the police will raid the shops and shut them down but they always seem to
reappear either in the same place with a new manager or close by. The computer
software and CD's will run you S$10 and up depending on how many disk are in the
set while games go for S$8 and X-rated VCD's are S$10 although a lot harder to
find. All the cab drivers are Singaporeans and know the city well so give
them a chance to get you to where you want to be. Like in any city if you need
something just ask a cab driver!
Hard times in Singapore
Over the pass year that I have been here I have seen and read a lot about how the economy has affect the lives of the local Singaporeans and the Expats' that live here too. Many (if not all) of the employers are only looking for those that have either a PR status or work permit before they will even talk to you. With many Singaporeans being retrenched (laid off) there is am ample supply of workers that can be hired with out the employer have to put up the S$2,500 work permit bond needed by the government so for the non-Singapore that is looking for work here it can be a bit hard to find your employed for a while. Many of the companies are looking for personal with degrees to booster the yearly earning to help get the company back on it's feet. Many get recruited by the the many head-hunter that have jobs posted for foreign workers. It appears that these job pay very well for those that are able to land them since many are in upper management or Senior Director positions. On the other hand many Expats' have been leaving Singapore since a company can save by releasing the high paid managers and may not speak Mandarin or Cantonese since this languages are widely used by the locals and in China which Singapore is looking very at as the next area to invest.
In the local paper there was an article about the rental units around the Orchard Road and how they where not able to rent them out at the prices as they did before. Many of these service apartments would start at S$4,000 and got up quickly from there in price but since the Expat's where not renting many lay empty right now.
Singapore is doing all it can to help it's citizens though the times that have been come over the small country yet many of the locals are not happy with the way things are going at the moment. With 6% unemployment here that unrest can be understood since Singapore was doing so well before the Asian market crashed in 1997. As companies resize and try to cut cost many Singaporean feel the noose tightening around then. Housing sales are down and most are holding on to their cash to see how much longer this recession will last before making any big purchases.
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