mini 4wd Tips
Overall SetupFor high speed tracks the lighter your car the better. Some racers even sand off extra weight from their cars just to make them lighter. For tracks that have jumps the heavier the car is in front the better. It's also best if you equip your car with brakes just to make sure your car will not fly off the track. An overly setup car tend to be heavier than its ideal weight. One point of consideration is the length of the track. I usually survey the tracks first. Some tracks even allow some practice time before the race proper. That allows you to change the setup of your car in case it cannot handle some jumps and turns. You can even spy around your friendly competition. Take advantage of the free practice time. Though they may change some parts of the track come race time, it usually is very minor. For tracks that doesn't allow practice time, try to watch some races first before signing up for the race. It allows you to identify the problem areas of the track so you can change the setup of your car. It also saves you money for re-entry. Invest on high quality parts specially original Tamiya. It makes a lot of difference in performance and durability. It may cost a little more but it gives you more satisfaction when you win a race or even a few rounds. The stores that sell the lowest priced Tamiya parts are Lil's Futaba at Park Square Makati (they don't sell motors unless you get a car and some parts are controlled so you can't get the quantity you want) and JMN's Hobby Square at Harrison Plaza Manila (where they also sell Auldey and other budget-priced parts). For those who are tight on the budget and does not require the best performance you can try the stores at Plaza Miranda near Quiapo church. It offers tons of tune-up parts for those on a tight budget. Bearing and screw/spacer vendors also flock the sidewalks. Some stores even offer original Tamiya cars and parts that are reasonably priced.
Motors
For maximum speed, Plasma-Dash, Ultra-Dash or Jet-Dash.
For technical tracks, then use the least a Torque Tuned or at the most
a Hyper-Dash 2. Try to invest on the higher performance motors first
because the competition already has. Just remember if your car
can not stay on the track with the higher performance motors its
not because the motor is too fast. It's because your car isn't set up
to handle the speed!
Description |
Power Consumed |
(With
Load) |
(Without
Load) |
Torque |
Stock FA-130 Motor |
1100mA |
9900 |
13800 |
10 |
Torque Tuned Motor |
1200mA |
12000 |
13600 |
10 |
Atomic-Tuned Motor |
1300mA |
15700 |
N/A |
10 |
Rev Tuned Motor |
1500mA |
14300 |
17600 |
10 |
Hyper-Dash Motor |
1600mA |
17200 |
19300 |
10 |
Mach-Dash Motor |
1900mA |
20800 |
23400 |
10 |
Jet Dash Motor |
4000mA |
23000 |
28000 |
22 |
Ultra-Dash Motor |
4000mA |
24000 |
29000 |
20 |
Plasma-Dash Motor |
4100mA |
25000 |
29000 |
20 |
Gears
I use at least a 4:1 or at the most a 3.5:1 specially on very fast
tracks. On technical tracks I use 4.2:1 or 5:1. The length
of the track is also very important in choosing the right gear
ratio.
Gear | Battery Life | Acceleration | Top Speed |
3.5:1 | Bad | Bad | Best |
4:1 | Good | Good | Better |
4.2:1 | Better | Better | Good |
5:1 | Best | Best | Bad |
Tires/Wheels
I use one-way wheels as much as possible. This offers the best
cornering performance since the wheels are not dragged. Original
Tamiya one-way wheels are the best. You may need to do some modifications specially on the
fully-cowled cars. There are at least a dozen tire/wheel combinations
with each offering their own set of pro's and con's. The table below
has a lot of information and may seem confusing at the beginning, but
its a lot of information, so...
Dia/Width/Tire | Top Speed | Acce. | Cornering | Shock Absorp. | Drag | Stability | Weight | Grip |
Small/Nar/Sponge | Bad | Good | Good | Bad | Good | Bad | Good | Bad |
Small/Nar/Reston | Bad | Good | Good | Bad | Good | Bad | Average | Average |
Small/Nar/Rubber | Bad | Good | Good | Bad | Good | Bad | Bad | Good |
Small/Wid/Sponge | Bad | Good | Good | Bad | Bad | Good | Good | Bad |
Small/Wid/Reston | Bad | Good | Good | Bad | Bad | Good | Average | Average |
Small/Wid/Rubber | Bad | Good | Good | Bad | Bad | Good | Bad | Good |
Lar/Nar/Sponge | Good | Bad | Bad | Good | Good | Bad | Good | Bad |
Lar/Nar/Reston | Good | Bad | Bad | Good | Good | Bad | Average | Average |
Lar/Nar/Rubber | Good | Bad | Bad | Good | Good | Bad | Bad | Good |
Lar/Wid/Sponge | Good | Bad | Bad | Good | Bad | Good | Good | Bad |
Lar/Wid/Reston | Good | Bad | Bad | Good | Bad | Good | Average | Average |
Lar/Wid/Rubber | Good | Bad | Bad | Good | Bad | Good | Bad | Good |
Rollers
The best rollers are the ones that doesn't have any
horizontal/vertical play. These are the ball-bearing type
rollers. Try using the bushing type rollers as an alternative as
long as the bushings fit snugly on the rollers to minimize
horizontal/vertical play. During practice time try not using any rubber on the front
rollers as much as possible so as not to sacrifice speed specially
during turns. The sharp edges of the rollers will handle the gripping
on the tracks just fine. But if your car keeps on flying off the
tracks, put the rubber back. Bending the side extension roller
mounts forward also helps the car stay on the tracks. But overly
bending them also makes the car fly off the tracks so make sure to
make the adjustments very little at a time. Putting rubber on
the rear rollers makes the car slower during turns and waves.
You may also consider this a point of adjustment for your car.
Here are two tables to recap the
information mentioned above. For those who learn in a more visual
manner, this may make it easier to decide which is best for your
situation.
Overall Dimension | Stability | Cornering | Front/Back Dimension | Stability | Cornering | |
Narrow | Bad | Good | Wider in Front | Bad | Good | |
Wide | Good | Bad | Wider in Back | Good | Bad |
Batteries
I have used the NiCd and NiMh batteries and its really a toss up
to which I prefer. I don't have a NiCd discharger and have to drain
them with a flash light. NiCd's are lighter and have a slightly
higher voltage than the NiMh. Since your objective in racing is to
finish first you will want a battery that has the highest charge
capacity. I see some cars at their top speed in the qualifying
rounds but lose power during the finals because their battery is
already drained. Invest on at least a 1000 MaH battery. I usually race more than one car and
have the NiMh in one and the NiCd in the other. When drag racing
I advise you use Alkaline batteries since these have the highest
voltage thus making your car a lot faster.
Type | Memory | Weight | Voltage |
Alkaline | No | Average | 1.5 |
Ni-Cad | Yes | Average | 1.25 |
Ni-Mh | No | Bad | 1.2 |
Li-On | No | Good | 1.5 |