Miscellaneous Fabric Manual

Art Linen (Part 1)

Fibre: Linen

Weave: Plain.

Characteristics: It is woven with even threads that are especially good for embroidery. It is very easy to "draw" the yarns for drawn thread work. Comes bleached, or coloured. Has a soft finish.

Uses: All kinds of needlework, lunch cloths, serviettes, etc.

Canvas (Part 2)

Fibre: Linen, cotton.

Weave: Plain.

Characteristics: Mostly rugged, heavy material made from plied yarns. Has body and strength. It is usually manufactured in the grey state but some is dyed for different uses. Almost the same as duck in heavier weights. Has an even weave. Ada or Java canvas used for yarn, needlework, almost like mesh.

Uses: Tents, sails, sacks, covers, etc. Finer types used for embroidery and paintings. Hair canvas is an interfacing material in various weights.

Crash (Part 3)

Fibre: Linen.

Weave: Plain.

Characteristics: It is very rugged and substantial in feel. Come in white or natural shades or could be dyed, printed, striped, or checked. The yarn is strong, irregular in diameter but smooth. Has a fairly good texture.

Uses: Toweling, dresses, coats.

Damask (Part 4)

Fibre: Linen, cotton, wool, worsteds.

Weave: Figure on Jacquard loom.

Characteristics: Very elaborate designs are possible. Cloth is belted, calendared and the better qualities are gross-bleached. Very durable, reversible fabric. Sheds dirt and the firmer the texture, the better the quality. Launders well and holds a high luster - particularly in linen.

There are two types of damask table cloths:

The quality of both depends on the yarn used and the thread count. - If the same quality and thread count are used, single is better than double because the shorter floats are more serviceable and the yarns hold more firmly. Double damask with less than 180 thread count is no good for holder use.

Huckaback (Part 5)

Fibre: Linen, cotton.

Weave: Dobby or basket.

Characteristics: It is strong. Rough in the surface finish but finer, shiner than cotton huckaback. Has variation in weaves but most have small squares on the surface that stand out from the background. Comes in white, colours, or coloured borders and also stripes. The motif is made from a series of floats, some of them rather long, which gives a loose effect in certain areas. This, if well spaced, acts as a good absorbing agency.

Uses: Mostly used for toweling.

Jute and Burlap (Part 6)

Jute is used in textiles for interiors, especially for wall hangings and a group of bright, homespun-effect draperies and wall coverings. Natural jute has a yellow to brown or gray colour, with a silky luster. It consists of bundles of fibre held together by gummy substances that are pertinacious in character. It is difficult to bleach completely, so many fabrics are bright, dark, or natural brown in colour. Jute reacts to chemicals in the same way as do cotton and flax. It has a good resistance to microrganisms and insects. Moisture increases the speed of deterioration but dry jute will last for a very long time. Jute works well for bagging, because it does not extend and is somewhat rough and course. This tends to keep stacks of bags in position and resist slippage.

Hemp (Part 7)

Hemp is a bast fibre dark tan or brown and is difficult to bleach, but it can be dyed bright and dark colours. The hemp fibres vary widely in length, depending upon their ultimate use. The thermal reactions of hemp and the effect of sunlight are the same as for cotton. Hemp is moth resistant, but it is not impervious to mildew. Coarse hemp fibres and yarns are woven into cordage, rope, sacking and heavy-duty tarpaulins.

Sisal (Part 8)

Sisal is one of a group of fibres obtained from the leaves of plants. It is obtained from a plant that belongs to the Agave family. Sisal can be dyed bright colours by means of both cotton dyes and acid dyes normally used for wool. It is important in the manufacture of such items as matting, rough handbags, ropes and cordage and carpeting.

Ramie (Part 9)

Ramie is a natural woody fibre resembling flax. The fibre is stiff, more brittle than linen, and highly lustrous. It can be bleached to extreme whiteness. Ramie fibres are long and very fine. They are white and lustrous and almost silk like in appearance. When combed, ramie is half the density of linen, but much stronger, coarser, and more absorbent. It has permanent luster and good affinity for dyes; it is affected little by moisture. Ramie is used as filling yarn in mixed woolen fabrics, and as a substitute for flax. This fibre is also useful for rope, twine, and nets.