ON THE ISLANDS
Day 5

We went by panga, back to the island of Santa Cruz, an island that is 2 million years old. We visited the area known as Caleta Tortuga Negra, which translates to 'Black Turtle Cove.' There were only 4 people left now, not including the panga operator and our naturalist, Lola. We cruised into a series of mangrove enclosed lagoons, a very sheltered area with calm, flat waters. No landing is allowed here, nor is it possible. It is a place usually filled with large numbers of sea turtles. It was very peaceful and quiet, with only the sounds of the many bird songs. We saw Great Blue Heron, pelicans, and many species of boobies. In addition, we saw schools of mullet, sea turtles, and some sharks, as well. Our panga operator turned off the engines, and he paddled the through the waters, so we could hear all the wonderful sounds. At times, we went through very small spaces in the mangroves. The areas were only as wide as our little vessel, and we had to duck down very low to pass through. The water is 'pea soup green', but crystal clear.

We followed up our journey through the mangroves, with a wet landing on the beach. During our visit to the islands, a certain procedure was followed, regarding the pangas. Once we were dropped off on an island, the panga returned to the Santa Cruz. It came to the island to pick us up only when it was time for us to return to the ship for lunch or dinner. Today was no different. We were free to explore on this part of the island without a naturalist. There were boobies, pelicans, swallow tailed gulls, and lava gulls on the beach.

The other couple with us was from Germany, and we really didn't know them at this point in time, so it felt as though we were really alone on this beautiful, desolate beach. It's an awesome feeling to be in a place like this, all alone, with no means of communication with anyone else in the world, except one couple who, as far as we know, doesn't speak our language, nor do we speak theirs. It was not a frightening feeling at all........just overwhelming. We lapped up the sun, swam, and just enjoyed the beach. As lunchtime approached, our panga showed up to take us back to the ship.

After lunch, a brief rest, and a brief coastline cruise, we landed on North Seymour Island. There are a large number of pillow lava boulders here, and a large part of this island is similar to a dry river bed. We had a hike of about 1 mile, half of which was on the lava, the other half on smooth beach. We witnessed the mating rituals of the boobies and the frigates, and the swallow tailed gulls. The gulls lay beautiful speckled eggs.

There are two different species of frigate birds. Although they appear much the same, their voices are quite different. One species makes the sound of someone rapidly beating a snare drum. The other's voice resembles the sound we made when we played the children's game, 'Cowboys & Indians'. Do you remember playing the Indian, and using your hand in front of your mouth to make a 'wah-wah' sound? That's the sound this species of frigate makes. The male frigate has a red pouch under his chin, similar to that of a turkey, but not as large. When he is trying to attract a female, he inflates this pouch so large, that you can barely see his head. He extends his wings, and shakes them violently, while making his vocal noises. It is so interesting to watch. They can continue this for very long periods of time. Several days, if necessary, to attract the right female.

Now, for the boobies. There are three different species of boobies. The Red Footed Boobie, the Masked Boobie, and the Blue Footed Boobie. The Blue Footed Boobie has the most interesting mating ritual, in my opinion. These birds have bright blue beaks, legs, and feet. The older the bird, the brighter the blue. In order to attract a female, the male stands in one place, and lifts one foot at a time, showing it off, hoping a female will notice how beautiful he is. He spreads his wings wide, shakes them violently, makes a sound that resembles someone blowing a whistle, and he flaps the sides of his neck very rapidly. He brings gifts of sticks to the female he is trying to woo. He repeats this ceremony over and over. When a female approaches, she looks him over, deciding whether he is beautiful enough for her. She may take about 10 minutes, prancing around with him, making up her mind. If he is not the one she wants, she will just fly off. He will begin again and again, until a female chooses him. The Blue Footed Boobie female lays blue eggs.

This island is swarming with these fabulous birds. Females are sitting on their eggs right where one has to walk, so you must step around or over them, as they have no fear of humans, and will not move away. Young frigate birds, one year old, are still sitting in their nests in the trees. They have a very special call to tell their mothers they are hungry, and they do not let up until she comes along and feeds them.

North Seymour Island is very wooded, and the birds are just everywhere. You do not have to search to see these marvelous creatures.......there's hardly room for the humans. There are also swallow-tailed gulls, marine iguanas and sealions on this island.

The panga has arrived to take us back to the ship for dinner, and the end of another exciting and educational day.