Wednesday 28th after looking at SJ's report, JJ tells the boys that they think a certain spot in Wales will get 30ft+ waves breaking on the reef. A final decision must be made, do they get a train to this place in Wales and see a once in a lifetime Hawaiin line up in British water, or go and surf some of the biggest, heaviest, gnarliest waves they could ever dream of?
Thurday 29th, and we had all been wondering weather it would be safe to surf the big swell coming our way. We dash into the computer room at school to check Croyde Surf Cam for swell size and direction, but the computer technician has closed the room for servicing...sods law...We hope and pray all afternoon that the swell has hit in time. So we ring up Steve at The Little Pink Shop in the afternoon and are gutted to be told that it is a sloppy, barely rideable 4ft mess.
Bens dad arrives at school, do we go or not?.......We finally say: lets not go down. We manage to scab a lift with two of our contacts from Bristol for Friday after School.
We had been psyched for a whole week now and when JJ tells the boys over the phone that the Bristolian sponger can give us a lift they go balistic and almost start crying...aaaaaggggghhhhhhhh.....said Ben, wwwoooooohhhhhhoooooo...said Hux, yyyeeeeeeeeeeehhhhhhaaaaaa.....said Ali, llllleeeeeegggeeeeeennnnnddddddd......said Greg (greg denies any such remark), and STOKED....said JJ.
We decided not to look at a single report of weather forecast all day and we left from school with Bens illegally imported new Greenday album banging about in the car. After 45 minutes of 5 in the back shouting and screaming SSTTOOKKEDDDD we come in to view with the beautiful 6 to 8 foot lines of perfection that we know oh so well of Saunton. We then slowly crept around the headland to see huge 10 -12 ft + monsters breaking at Downsend. We look to each other and say ummm NO - we would give the reef a miss. We got in and spent most the time in huge church like Barrells after a sunset session we got out Stoked to our heads and celebrated our epic day or week by taking shots of Sprite, as we were all broke.
These pictures will give you some kind of idea to the epicness of the first real swell to hit this Autumn. Thanks to Croyde Surf Cam for the pictures.
