Tuesday 17th:
At about quarter past eight Ben and his dad parked outside my house with Ali in the back, almost shaking with excitment. JJ grabs hisstuff and jumped in. One last stop to pick up Fordy and we were on our way. We were all amped and somehow listening to the new (and already favourite) Green Day album on the way down got us in a really strange 'lets all go to middlesbough reef and kill ourselves' mood. Ford, being the novice, put a stop to that quickly by looking more that a bit worried and by the time we got there we were all laughing and pissing about.
Turning the corner into Croyde, we nearly felt like crying as it looked like 4 ft, fairly blown out mush. We were all silent as we put our wetsuits on and as we walked down to the shore. Ali, always the optimist, says "lets hope it picks up eh?" damn right...
At that point an onshore wind blew strongly into us and we decided to get out for a bit, as we were getting cold in our knackered summer suits. We stopped off at the rip off shop in Ruda, where JJ has his customary bowl of cereal. This time it must have been one muth@fu**in' lucky bowl of cereal, because as we walked down the slipway onto the beach, the sun was out. Most importantly however, was the fact that wind had changed with the outgoing tide and the waves were now a 6 ft picture of perfection.
Donning their wetties and grabbing their boards, (with Fordy shitting himself) the fearlessly amped guys started ripping at Downsend in the heavy surf. Smooth moves, along with the occasional heavy wipeout left the boys feeling truly hammered after a day that started ok, and ended up being what can only be described as epic. |
