A Charity Walk - In SPAIN
Jerome Farrell, one of our members, has just completed a 300-mile sponsored charity walk for GAP-ISRCDE, an organisation helping people affected by AIDS in Gujarat, India. He sent out the following newsletter, which I quote.
"I returned from Spain on 26 June after walking from Burgos to Santiago de Compostela along the ancient Pilgrims' Way, or Camino de Santiago, over 23 days (including one rest day in Leon). There are many starting points for the Camino - Burgos fitted well with the amount of time I had available and was an obvious starting place for me as my great-grandfather, a judge, was born and died there. Before setting off I spent a morning in Burgos City Archives (yes, a bit of a busman's holiday!) and found the record of his birth, then visited the church where he was christened and saw the grave where he and my great-grandmother were buried in 1913 and 1942 respectively.
I covered approximately 475 km (300 miles) averaging about 13-14 miles a day. The route passes through varied countryside - the vast Castillian meseta or plateau with enormous fields of wheat stretching to the horizon and many miles between villages. Two mountains ranged with some spectacular scenery, the fertile "Bierzo" with orchards and vineyards, and the green hills and valleys of Galicia with a network of winding country lanes, small fields and an abundance of dairy cattle. The weather included some torrential rain and cold spells in the mountains (even a frost one morning), but was mostly dry, warm and sunny.
Although I did most of the walking alone, I met new people nearly every day and often kept re-meeting the same people later one. At this time of year most of the people walking the Camino are foreigners (Spaniards predominate in July and August), and I met a wide variety of people of all ages and nationalities. The pilgrim "refugios" or hostels, where you can stay free of charge (a donation of a pound or two is expected) if you are walking the Camino, also provides an opportunity to get to know a cosmopolitan mixture of people, this was brought home to me on my first night when involved in cooking an improvised communal dinner with two Italians, three Germans, two Belgians, two Swiss, two other British and three French people! On another occasion I found myself eating with six Brazilians and a Japanese girl - in a Chinese restaurant in a provincial Spanish town!
The impression I got was that people walk the Camino for all sorts of reasons. In some cases recent retirement, marriage, divorce, unemployment or career uncertainty, bereavement or serious illness seemed to have provided the impetus, other people just wanted some space to think or get away from the rat-race for a while, or in some cases see it as a sporting exercise, or a cheap holiday. Whilst some come from a traditional Christian background, many do not. Among the people I met were a German architect, a gay Brazilian concert pianist with leukaemia, a newly married Hungarian couple a young unemployed Scottish baker, a Spanish artist, an American Episcopalian priest and his two sons (8 and 12), a Swiss Buddhist woman who gave tarot and numerology readings, two Breton merchant seamen, two people in the film industry in London, a Dutch woman living with cancer, two Australian girls "doing" Europe (they got a bus after a few days), a retired Belgian couple, a 75 year-old Frenchman (7 children and 17 grandchildren) and four Basques.
I found it physically very hard going, especially in the first week- lots of blisters - but after a while you get into a rhythm of walking. I barely noticed the weight of my rucksack after a few days, and I greatly enjoyed the peace, the birdsong, the diverse scenery and the wonderful wild flowers. Along the way I saw storks, buzzards, vultures, lizards, frogs and a snake. As I can get by in Spanish it was interesting to talk to local people too. They were usually friendly and helpful, and in some cases extremely welcoming and generous. I had a long conversation with a Castilian shepherd miles from anywhere on the meseta - with his 360 sheep and two dogs - and on a number of occasions people walked out of their way to make sure I did not get lost. Occasionally drinks in bars (and in one village restaurant, whose owner had walked the Camino herself, the entire meal) turned out to be " on the house. On the one hot day I did get lost, an elderly Galician couple insisted I came into their shady garden to rest and cool off, and then plied me with iced beers which they said were " a present from the Saint" (i.e. St James).
Traditionally the Camino ends at Santiago Cathedral where you climb up to enter the "Portico of Glory", place your hands on the Romanesque Tree of Jesse sculpture (worn smooth over the centuries), visit the crypt to see the casket said to contain St James's remains, and climb the stairs behind the high altar to embrace the shoulders of a large statue of St James - the "abrazo para el Apostol", or hug from the Apostle which marks the completion of the pilgrimage. With your Pilgrim Passport (stamped every day along the Caiman) you can then obtain your "Compostela", a Latin document issued to pilgrims since the 15th century which entitles you to three free meals and also these days, free entry into Santiago's museums.
I spent three days in Santiago, (not doing very much walking!), which is a lovely small city, and my last evening there coincided with a fiesta, the "Noche de San Juan" or night before St John's Day - regarded in Spain as the shortest night of the year. Over a hundred bonfires were lit in the plazas of Santiago around midnight and there were loud volleys of fireworks, music, grilled sardines and barrels of wine. It was a good note on which to leave!
Oh, and the feet are fine now thank you everyone who has asked!"
Almost 100 sponsors have pledged approximately £2600 to date and I expect to transfer the final amount raised to India in the Autumn, and will let you know at Christmas time the exact figure and some more information about how the money will be used.
Jerome Farrell
|