Colonial Mexico
On
February 19, 1519, Hernan Cortés, with a force of some
600 men, fewer than 20 horses, and 10 field pieces, set sail
from Cuba. Cortés sailed along the coast of Yucatán
and in March 1519 landed in Mexico near the present day city
of Veracruz.
In 1535, some years after the fall of the Aztec capital, the basic form of colonial government in Mexico was instituted with the appointment of the first Spanish viceroy, Antonio de Mendoza. For the remainder of the Spanish colonial period, from 1535 to 1821, a total of 61 viceroys ruled Mexico.
Thus, the beginnings of the Spanish Colonial era. Today, Mexico is a gem of Spanish culture, architecture, and music. A rich history, often violent and chaotic, provides the traveler a vast array of sights and opportunities to explore and discover. What better way to travel and see Mexico then by motorcycle! This article presents one trip through the heart of the Spanish Colonial region of Mexico. Even though the Spanish influence is spread throughout Mexico, the Central Highlands region is particularly representative of Spanish culture. It is here the great gold and silver mines abound. The cities built up around these mines are grand in every sense of the word! Magnificent Cathedrals, royal palaces, grandiose government buildings and rich rancheros are found here. History is packed into every village and town. One has only to ride these roads to feel the Spanish influence and culture.
January 23, 1999 is the beginning of our trip as we cross over into Mexico from the small border town of Del Rio, Texas. Robert is riding a BMW 1100GS, Charles on a Honda ST1100 and the author is riding a new Triumph Tiger. We are heading for the city of Saltillo, about 300 miles south.
Saltillo,
in a broad valley surrounded by the imposing peaks of the Sierra
Madre Oriental, was founded as a Spanish outpost in 1577 by Alberto
del Canto. In 1591, Francisco de Urdiñola established
a mining settlement populated by relocated Tlaxcaltec Indians.
By the early 17th century, the town was a strategic center for
Spanish expeditions embarking on explorations to the north. From
1835 to 1847 Saltillo was capital of a territory that included
Texas and extended as far northward as present-day Colorado.
As we approach Saltillo we begin to notice the highway signs directing us toward "El Centro" (Center of town). This is where we want to go. Over the years we have found that simply following the inevitable "El Centro" signs will get us to the main Plaza (Zocolo) where the old Colonial hotels are to be found. Resist the urge to stay on the outskirts of town. No history here! Head right for the center, ask for the Plaza (every Mexican village, town, or city has one) and find a hotel right on the Plaza. This will allow you to walk and sightsee at will. If you get lost, simply ask a taxi driver to take you to the Plaza or "El Centro." Follow him and you will soon be there!
During
our travels in Mexico we have learned to depend on the travel
book, "Lonely Planet," for hotel and other city attractions.
They are not always "right on" but generally a great
resource for travel in Mexico. We choose to stay at the old Colonial
Hotel Urdinola just off the main Plaza. Had a great interior
courtyard and very Spanish in design. Be sure your hotel has
secure parking before you check in - many in town hotels do not
have parking. The Urdinola has parking next door.
There are two downtown
plazas. Numerous monuments and well-preserved colonial buildings
line the streets around Plaza de Armas. The plaza is flanked
by the city's grand 18th-century cathedral and the Palacio de
Gobierno (Government Palace), which contains murals illustrating
regional history. A few hours of sightseeing and picture taking
and we are ready to eat. We generally find small local restaurants
that serve regional specialties. Each town or city has its "specialty."
Just ask for the "Comida Regional." (Regional Specialty)
Much livelier is Plaza Acuña, 2 blocks northwest. Here
there are an abundance of shops, and the square is ringed with
little cafes and bars. Occupying one corner of the plaza is Mercado
(market) Juárez, which is a good place to browse for handicrafts,
sarapes, rugs, pottery, silverwork and bizarre-looking tin masks.
The only drawback to traveling by motorcycle is the inability
to buy lots of souvenirs! The markets (mercados) are a wondrous
place to visit. Every town has one. So many things to buy!
The next day we will continue south to the rich mining city of Zacatecas. Our route will continue taking us across the high central desert plateau of Mexico. Dry, cool, and clear weather prevails here.