Supplies: Rapidograph pen (Koh-i-noor), 1mm size is best.
Rapidograph
ink - latex based. (3084-F)
Windex
or ammonia and water mixed.
Q-tips
Blank
geometric mylar cards.
It is best to get several copies made of the blank geometric cards to work with. This will give you a grid on a white sheet of paper that you can design on in pencil and erase errors easily.
The biggest problem people have is in making the design continuous. This is not a problem if you are just repeating a geometric design across the paper that fits evenly in the 60 stitch repeat. However, when working with different designs in a series you must make certain that where the last of the design ends on the right is where the design begins on the left side. Because of the way the photosensors read the card it has to have a continuous pattern. If you want and quick and easy way to check to see if the pattern is right, just roll the grid sheet together forming a tube. Does the end of the pattern on the right side of the card continue in pattern at the beginning of the design on the left side?
If you are making a design that is meant to be a single motif, instead of repeated continuously across the knitting, it is important to know that you are limited to about 56 stitches wide instead of the full 60 stitches of the card. If you make a design wider than that, you will end up with stray stitches selected at the edges of your design, and will not be able to isolate it properly.
Now, we need to talk about the MN's, movement normal, and the MR's, movement rapid. These are the 2 columns of small rectangles at the far right side of each card. The left or inside column is to tell the card when there is to be normal movement of the card, row by row; but, when the scanner sees a black mark in the column it will reverse directions. So, when designing a card that will read up, down, up etc. there must be a black rectangle filled in that column at the beginning and end of the design. The rectangle to blacken at the beginning of the pattern is the 3rd square up from the 1st pattern row. Count the 1st pattern row as 1, the next row is 2, and you blacken in the next row. Likewise, at the top of the pattern, the last row is 1, the next row is 2, then blacken in the following row.
The outside column is the MR control. It is the one that tells the box to move the card rapidly back to the beginning of the design. This column is used when you have a design that has a "right side up". However, the message is delivered by the ABSENCE of a black mark. On the blank geometric cards the far right hand column is all black. So, you will have to carefully cut out the rectangle in that 3rd space above the last line of your design. If you have any doubts, take a look at one of the printed designs you regularly use.
The easiest way to copy your design onto the blank grid is to lay the blank one on top of the paper one you have designed. You will be able to see exactly which ones need to be inked in. The wonderful thing about using the rapidograph ink is that it is easily removed if you make a mistake. Just moisten a Q-tip with Windex and wipe away what you don't want.
These pens and inks are sold at art stores or at some office stores. Artists and draftsmen use the. It is also possible to clean off the entire card with Windex, then dry with a paper towel.
The blank gridded mylar cards are no longer being produced and sold. So, save at least one with no pattern marked on it. You can take it to a good copy service place and get a photocopy made on mylar sheets. Be sure the copying is at 100% of the original size (some are just slightly off). You will have to trim the sides of the sheet to the width of the original. It can be difficult to punch the small holes at the top of the sheet, so I usually just use 2 pieces of clear tape along the top of the card to hold it in place in the card sleeve. Be certain that you have it in the sleeve absolutely straight.