Western Alps '95

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The Western Alps '95 (summer) by B.C. TOK

The Western Alps has always hold an impression of ruggedness, remoteness, and supreme technical difficulty. Like all high mountain ranges, their formations embody a variety of hazards for climbers. The steepness of terrain, height of the mountains, their climatic characteristics and their consequences pose an immense challenge to anyone who dare to confront it. Fortunately, like all climbing sites, there is always a selection of easier routes that one could choose.

A great opportunity came about before I was dued to return to Singapore for a 3 months long holiday. Without hesitation I snatched this great chance of staying back for yet another 2 weeks, to my first ever visit to the western Alps. To climb in the Alps has always been my first dream. As many of the great name and great pioneers had already set foot on these mountains ranges further inspired my urge to climb here. I supposed, special thanks... should goes to our great pioneers such as Whymper, Mummery, Ravanel, Charlet, Contamine, Bonatti, Desmaison, Rebuffat....and in more recent years Gabarrou, Grassi and Piola. There is no doubt that the Mont Blanc Range and the Bernese Oberland provides any alpinists with some of the finest quality routes in Europe. Whether be it a long and delicate snow crests, on rough red granite or steep hard ice, there are enormous opportunity. For such a relatively compact range, a staggering large number of climbs have been recorded, approximately 4000 over routes. Inevitably, this is the Mecca to which most alpinists aspire and that hopefully includes me.

I was on my way to Grindelwand. I've never been to Switzerland, not to mention seeing 'Eiger' for the first time. I was very excited about the whole situation when the train slowly rolled into the valley of Grindelwand. Even then I was not allowed to get a full view of the Eiger as thick layer of clouds kept the middle and upper walls mysteriously hidden. The Eiger had not given me a warm welcome, and similarly to those who dare to scratch crampon marks on its surface.

Surprisingly, Grindelwand has lost its charm as the classic mountain village in the olden days, as compare to now a tourist infested resort, full of Japanese and Korean. Even some shops here were own and operate by Japanese. I described my arrival into Grindelwand as really a nightmare. I was a student then. Shouldering a total load of nearly 35 kg, I couldn't find cheap accommodation and was forced to return back to Interlaken to look for camp ground. Fortunately I managed to locate the campsite and also through a bit of luck, I met a British climber that was alone looking for a suitable partner. As I camped not far away from him, it didn't take very long for me to break the ice, that resulted in an invitation to stay in his huge caravan. With that partnership, I have solved my transportation problem as Simon's own a land rover which he had towed his caravan all the way from Warrick, England.

It was actually Simon's idea to climb the Wettehorn's. Certainly not by it's steepest north face, but through an easier line on the west side (alpine AD-). But it doesn't sound as easy as it looks! I supposed one of the difficult bit is the rather long approach from the valley floor to the hut at about 2317m. The trail's towards the hut is made more exciting by having to cross beneath a waterfall. The stunning views along the trail's really captured our breath away. We had fine weather, good condition and plenty of food. With an early start at 2.00am the next morning from Gleckstein hut, we gained the summit of this 3701m peak at 11.25am. The climb consist of initial snow terrain, follow by a series of mixed climbing. The route's was pretty straight forward with the exception of a few tricky and delicate pitches of shit rock climbing. I remembered that there is a section of about 2 pitches on shit rock, that we actually climb without protection. This hair raising experience was fast over in no time as we found better rock on subsequent pitches. I was still very surprised by the fact that the rocks on the north face of Wettehorn looks very much like those of the Yosemite El Capitan granite structure, but sadly the west side of it looks like a piece of shit! Somehow I just don't feel safe in putting protection on these rocks?

On the way down, after passing the dangerous rock barrier, we could see many snow basins that facilitated our descent with a few easy and reasonably safe glissade back down to the hut. The day was very much rewarded with a summit, a good rest, and of course a heavy dinner back in the hut, which comprises french bread with cheese, plaster, sausages covered in tomatoes and carrot pastry and a pot of hot maggie soup, and last but not least, the ever refreshing and rejuvenating brew of warm tea. Our intention was to stay on for a couple of days, but had under-estimated our hungry appetite for food. We have no other alternative but to return back down to the campsite while the weather was still holding on. I supposed, with that continuous stretch of 4 fine days would definitely see some big routes done on the North Wall of Eiger?? A dream that I hope to realise one day!

A few days of resting at campground made my body rather restless. To think about doing the 9 hrs trek back to the hut, we decided to scrap this painful effort of getting back to the Wettehorn group, and diverge our concentration to the French Alps. There are so many climbs in the Swiss Alps that I wanted to stay longer, but Simon desperately wanted to spend more time in the French Alps. I ended up changing my plan to join him. On our way towards the Swiss-France border we encountered our first obstacle,.....'engine overheated' !!! The road towards France is on steep up slope terrain. Due to the weight of Simon's caravan and the reliability of his land rover radiator fan, we had to make frequent stop for the engine to cool. We ended up arriving into the little village of Argentiere just before mid-night.

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