| Housing and Supplies |
| List of Supplies: 1. Hiding places- Leopard Geckos along with crickets need hiding places. It is required to have atleast 2 hide boxes. One should be cool and dry, while the other should be humidified: with a wet paper towel or with a spray bottle. Your hide boxes can be anything really. You can use coconut-huts, log huts, or even a small container or box. Just be sure that they are safe for reptiles. 2. Plants and Sticks- Leopard Geckos are not tree dwellers, but they will still need many plants and rocks for hiding. I personally suggest a rock for basking, and plants in the corner for shelter. Sticks are not necessary, but they add a nice touch. 3. Lighting- Leopard Geckos need some form of UV emitting light. I use a florescent reptile light. You can also use a reptile lamp with a special reptile heat bulb. A florescent light, and a reptile light bulb combo works best. You will also need a hot basking area along with a cool area of the cage as well. For best results, use a special basking light in the basking area. I personally recommend putting the enclosure by a window, because natural light truly is the best. 4. Heating- It is strongly recommended to have a heat pad, but if you simply can't afford it, then you can't. Make sure you maintain the heat level with a thermometer. I would put the heat pad on the basking side so that you have a nice basking area, and a cool area for them to cool off. (Below is a Temperature Chart) AVOID HEAT ROCKS AT ALL COST!!!! (They risk hot-spots that can easily burn and kill your lizard!! Why risk the little guys life, when a heat pad costs almost the same!!) 5. Substrate/Floor- You have the option of using sand, reptile carpet, and newspaper. Sand is the best, and it is also available with calcium in it. Be sure not to use sand for juveniles, because it is harmful to them when developing. When they are juveniles, it is best to use reptile carpet or newspaper. As soon as they loose their stripes, and become adults, you can use sand. Try to avoid bark chips, moss, and soil. They run a high risk for carrying mites. If you use soil, make sure it doesn't have perlite in it. It's toxic to reptiles. Again, I strongly recommend not using bark chips, moss, or soil. 6. Water- Leopard Geckos mainly drink water out of a dish, so a water dish is needed. You also need a mister bottle, because your leopard geckos will lap it up off the glass and leaves every now and then. You also need it to keep the humidity levels up. I suggest about 2-3 sprays a day. |
| Enclosure: First of all, you will need a cage. I prefer an aquairium, but screen terrariums work as well, they're just harder to keep warm. Be sure the enclosure is well ventilated. Minimum size enclosure for a single hatchling or juvenile leopard gecko is a standard 10-gallon aquarium. A larger sized enclosure (minimum 15-gallon) is strongly recommended for adult leopard geckos. Please note that leopard geckos do not need friends - they fare better in captivity if they are kept alone. It is critical that hatchlings and juveniles be housed separately, away from the adults. Do not house multiple male geckos together, for they will fight, generally to the death... The more lizards there are, the more hiding places that are needed - hence the tank must get correspondingly larger. Enclosures must have a secure fitting screen cover - leopard geckos are adept escape artists! |
| Temperature Chart: Basking Area Temperature: 85-88F Heating Pad Temperature: 85-88F Cooler Area Temperature: 75-80F |