An essentially undeveloped crag, between the "Mount Blackheath" and "Blackheath Lookout" climbing areas. It's worth a day out there looking around.
Photos of the best new route I've ever done. Great rock, great pro, and a great variety of moves - jam, layback, fingerlock and bridge moves all the way! The crack hasn't been cleaned all the way to the ledge, so for the moment its rap-access only. (Feel free to get out there, clean it out, and claim the first complete ascent).
I must point out that yes, I am leading in these photos. We rapped in to a hanging belay, and because the route is 3m overhung (see the final pics here for proof!), we had to place gear on rap to be able to pull in to the belay.
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The start of the crux laybacking after pulling out of the tight little sentry box down low.
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Jam baby, jam!! A real sustained sequence for a long way, with occasional semi-rest bridging stances for gear placement.
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Phew! The only rest. A big thumbs up for this awesome route!
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Warming up the 'ole hands. This photo shows the overhung nature - check where my shoes are hanging on the rap rope! Pity about the vegetation on that awesome wall round the arete, huh? (Even more of a pity that I've already started on the only line up the even better wall directly below the photographer!)
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** Blistering 30m 16 (OS)
The great corner crack which slices straight up the middle of the orange walls. Walk W along clifftop from hang-glider ramp (through 2 gullies), until above the obvious overhanging orange buttress. Rap down corner (placing and clipping into gear to keep in touch with the rock), to stance at small tree and semi-hanging belay from gear in crack. (#5 camalot useful). Easily to sentry box then jam, bridge, lock and layback up corner to rest. Fingercrack over little bulge to ledge then chimney to top. Belay off trees well back. FA Will Monks, Andrew Duckworth, Peter Monks 18/7/99
In addition to this route we also did a lovely little number on the lower cliffline about 80m to the R:
* Day of Departure 15m 16
The lovely orange finger-sized corner crack on the lower cliffline. Great pro and lovely layback moves on gorgeous rock lead up the finger crack to the roof. Easy traverse R, then some tricky moves gain a stance and good wires in the crack above. Continue up the crack to the top. FA Will Monks, Andrew Duckworth, Rob Hadley, 27/6/99.
© 2002 Will