Will's Rock Climbing Page > Crags > AU > NSW > Blue Mountains > Bowen's Creek

Last updated: Jul '04

Bowen's Creek

The Word: Sportclimbing out in the bush.
Sun/shade: Sun from late morning.
Wet weather options: Heaps. 75% of routes stay dry.
Best Season(s): Winter is when Bowen's can really stand out, being well protected from the wind and getting sun nearly all day. It's a good wet weather option year round, but sunny days above about 22C will get pretty toasty.
Style of Climbs: Sportclimbing on ringbolts, leave your rack at home. Some routes may need a 60m rope for lowering off.
Rock type: Not the best quality sandstone of the Blueys, and at first glance the Main Wall looks pretty crap, however the remaining holds tend to be good and the climbs are in fact excellent.
Grades: 19-30
The Crag Classic(s): 97% Fat Free (25) is probably the best thing I've been on here.
The Hidden Gem: Walter Mitty way downstream is well worth seeking out.
Guidebook(s): Blue Mountains Climbing, Pircher/Carter, 3rd ed. Aug 02 (Pages 222-231)

Bowen's Creek Main Wall basking in winter sunshine

The Details: Being located in the National Park, this is a contentious crag. Originally you could drive down the road to the top of the crag, which the NPWS didn't like so we got the gate and the 30min walk. Additionally the use of power drills caused some angst, partially because they were mistaken for chain saws leading to the assumption that the loggers had moved in! The NPWS has issued a ban on climbing here which as far as I know is still in force. Nevertheless with the bolting apparently all finished, the issue seems to have died away and now lots of climbing gets done here. The deal is sportclimbing, and nearly all of it is overhung.

Access: 30-40min walk depending which wall you go to. Park 200m E of the locked gate on the N side of Bells Line of Road, 1.5km drive east of the Mt Banks turn-off and 7.7km drive W from Mount Tomah. The easiest and quickest access is to walk the full length of the road to where it ends at large power poles (25mins to here). To your L is a cairn and track leading down scrambly sections to the gully. Bull Crag is 2mins downstream (to your R facing out), while Main Wall is 3-4mins upstream. It's also possible to drop down into the gully upstream from the Main Wall, though without decent landmarks you might need someone to show you. For this option, after 20 minutes walking down the vehicle track, at the bottom of a slight slope, a track appears on the L. Head L down into the bush following a new track for about 10 minutes to an 8m downclimb with help from a fixed rope. Shopping Crag appears immediately on the R. Continue downstream to Bum Wall on the right. Another few minutes leads to the Main Wall.
Descent(s): Practically all routes have lower offs.

Described L to R, facing the cliff.

Bull Crag

*** Walter Mitty 25m 19 (OS)
An excellent route, much as I didn't want to admit that to the FAionist. Crux past the first bolt is technical and thin but no harder than 19 if you do it properly. Then its just glorious up the wall, the outstanding short corner above, and onwards through the top bulge.

* Daydream Believer 25m 20 (OS)
Same thin start as WM, then step R on lip of roof and up the orange rock 2-3m R of WM. Several ok moves and worth doing but not as good as WM.

A view of Bull Crag showing sum dood on Zulu Dawn (22), with Walter Mitty (19) taking the orange corner to his R, and Daydream Believer (20) in the orange rock further R again.

The first ascentionist modelling the wonderful corner moves on a repeat of his instant classic Walter Mitty (19).
Walter in the flesh

Main Wall

Mutton Poacher 15m 20 (OS)
Love the name. Not actually on Main Wall but about 25m further L. Tenuous but not too hard across the slab to the second ring, then tricky up to the lip and to clip 3rd ring. Pull out R onto the steep wall above and pump up on jugs.

An old codger working hard on the 3rd clip of Mutton Poacher (20).
Those damn Austrian accents

** Mr Pink 15m 21 (OS & RP)
The second leftmost route on the Main Wall proper. To 2nd ring then continuously up and R through pumpy territory, the crux being the final moves (hint: style the crimpy sidepull and its quite easy). One of the best routes here.

* Bustin' Dustin 15m 22 (OS)
A heinous start, the first RB is best stick clipped. Then jump to ok hold and desperately crank to the obvious ledge. Easier up through half height with some nice moves, before a polished little crimp protects the finish - if you're sweating off it you can actually pop again to the holds above.

* Shut the Gate 15m 21 (OS)
A nice finish up the short square arete under the roof. Tricky mantle onto ramp past first ring, then simple up and L to interesting rock, then a nice move to base of arete. Undercling to good pinch on arete, then gain opposing crimps on face and to DRB (one is loose!)

* Kraut Pleaser 15m 20 (OS)
Up flake on good holds (which keep falling off!), to some hard moves past final rings between jugs in horizontals. DRB.

Adam on Kraut Pleaser, me on Shut the Gate behind.
yay for ringbolts

*** 97% Fat Free 25m 25 (L)
Outstanding!! Easily the best route I've done here. Numerous brilliant 22/23 moves, no killer crux, 7-8m overhung....and no rests! (or is there... ? ;) Techie thin start past 1st RB, then a bit scary to 2nd RB (lazy belaying would make for a grounder). Trend up and L, pass a few RBs, then a touch runout back up and R to a major break. Traverse R along here, then more techie moves up a sidepull flake, before some thin reaches over the final roof. Awesome! I will definitely be back for this one, it'll be a pleasure to spend time working a route of this quality.

Strong kiwi bloke moving past the 2nd ring on 97% Fat Free (25).

Same dude runs out of steam and takes to the air half way up 97% Fat Free (25).
That move was so good he's jumping off just to do it again

Bum Wall

Number 51 18m 16 (OS)
The corner crack at the L end of Bum Wall. Plenty of pro but only one nice move, past the little roof at two thirds height (13 to the big roof). Traverse 8m across (crux), 3m under the roof, to DRB. Hey, I had to get my Mexican credentials up. FA Will Monks, Greg Andrews 20/6/99.

Lard Arse 14m 19 (OS)
The left line of rings. Stays dry in the rain, and has the odd ok move.

* Sludge Bottom 14m 21 (OS)
The middle line of rings. Good moves and sustained til half height.

More Internet Sites on Bowen's Creek Climbing

Bureau of Meteorology Navigate to "South East" - The Central Tablelands and Orange weather is a fair indicator for The Blueys

Australian Maps Enter "Berambing" into the suburb field (and NSW as the state), the crag is about halfway between Berambing and Mt Wilson, with the walk-in going down "Haystack Ridge".

Onsight Photography Two of Simon Carter's Blueys shots are of Bowen's (numbers 32 and 33).

NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service Park information, downloadable maps, etc.

Rock Climbing Australia Grandiose name but only skimpy information.

TheCrag.com As always. Record your Bowen's ticks here, and see what everyone else is climbing.