Mt Buffalo

The Word: Outstanding granite.
Best Seasons: This is Victoria's prime summer destination (Dec-Feb), with perfect days usual when the rest of the state swelters in 30-40C. Being up to 1800m above sea level this is also a minor ski destination in winter, which rules out climbing for all but the most (fool)hardy during May to September (at least). So on one hand, freezing weather is possible at any time of year, but on the other hand, for those within striking distance its possible to take advantage of good weather days throughout the year, provided you don't mind camping in sub-zero conditions overnight. Personally I'll consider Buffalo throughout Sep-May if the weather forecast looks good, but I pretty much rule it out in winter.
Style & Length of Climbs: 10-300m. The staple diet up here tends to be rather run out slab climbing plus carnivorous cracks which often require big gear ("a #4 camalot is never out of place on a Buffalo rack"). However there is a small smattering of vertical face routes, usually where dykes offer better edges. The other major offering here are the 150-300m aid routes, mainly on the North Wall of the Gorge, which make for multi-day adventuring.
Rock type: Granite, mainly superb however it does choss out a bit in places (eg the top of Catani Crag).
Guidebook(s): The 1996 Jeremy Boreham/David Brereton "Mt Buffalo, A Rockclimbers Guide" is the only guidebook still found in shops, but unfortunately there are quite a few niggly problems in it, eg imprecise descriptions of access to routes (particularly in the Gorge), inaccurate route lengths, and failing to mention dangerous downclimbs (eg Chalwell Galleries). Dec03-Mar04: the VCC is undertaking the big job of compiling a new guide - give them your suggestions, help out as much as you can, and have a say in making it great!!

The Details: Buffalo is perhaps the best established granite area in Australia. The best place to stay is Lake Catani campground, which is only open from November 1st to April 30th over each summer. Sites are $12-19 (depending on season) but you'll need to book well in advance on most nice weekends, and especially around public holidays. Bookings are taken by the Entrance Station (03 5756 2328). Tatra Lodge (further out on the Plateau, near The Hump; ph 1800 037 038 or 03 5755 1988) offers 4 bed backpackers style rooms for $15 per person (low season).
The climbing is awesome, with the crags being a mix of tors and slabs/walls, most of which are much bigger then they seem. For example the Cathedral looks single pitch at first sight, until you spot the tiny flyspeck climbers 3 pitches up it!! And of course there's the mighty gorge - the North Wall offering the best Australian big wall aid routes, and the South side offering lower grades, plenty of exposure, and the odd single pitch rap-in classic.

Access: 4hr drive from Melbourne. Head north up the Hume then East to Porepunkah (some people go via Oxley, Milawa, Whorouly Sth etc, however as a creature of cruise control comfort I stay on the Hume a little longer and just take the Great Alpine Rd nowadays, as it has fewer towns with 60 zones). From Porepunkah the road heads to the Entrance Station then winds steeply up the hill to the plateau - apparently the record is 12mins from the Entrance to the Gorge, but it takes the rest of us more like 30mins. Once up on the Plateau, the road is in a huge T shape across the plateau. At the only intersection, the road to the left (after coming up the hill) takes you to the Gorge and the Chalet, while straight ahead takes you to Lake Catani, the Cathedral, and eventually to the Horn. It's about 5mins from the Gorge to Lake Catani, another 8-10mins from Lake Catani up to the Cathedral, and another 5-8mins from the Cathedral up to the Horn.