The Details: A real beaut crag. Within about an hour of Brisbane, it’s a brilliant daytrip crag for those lucky enough to have it. But if you don’t live nearby, you really have to take the time to get out to this awesome cliff, especially given that it’s such a great winter option for those from the southern states. So take some leave, hit the road, and head North for more brilliant one pitch crack climbing than you can poke a stick at. Deserving of special mention is Conquistador (*** 45m 21), Devil’s Dihedral (*** 45m 20) and Deliverance (*** 45m 23), an incredible looking trio of routes next to each other. Resurrection Corner (** 30m 17) looks good but harder! Tonnes of other cracks also look fantastic, what a great crag!
Access: To get there, head S out of Boonah for about 2kms, then turn R at the obvious pub and follow the windy road uphill for 10mins to the park. Follow the tracks over to a descent gully which is about in the middle of the cliff.
Described L to R, facing the cliff.
*** Infinity 35m 19 (OS)
A crag classic and a crack classic, with fingers down low and a great 10m jamming section up high. Start to the R, stem up 5m then step L to the main crack. Awkward off-fingers through a bulge, reasonably strenuous with only sparse faceholds, almost the crux and with no real rest for several metres above. Jam the diagonal crack up R through bulge, then 6-8m of beautiful jamming up vertical crack, absolutely no faceholds and just widening to off-hands for the last metre or two, brilliant!! Easier for the last 10m to chains.
Here's a photo of Bob on the off-fingers bit, with the 8m handjam section above him fairly foreshortened.
** Short Order 35m 20 (OS)
Just another great crack route, go-go-go from the moment you start. Quite strenuous up the initial face crack, then into the corner crack. Sustained and tiring, but great moves, all the way up the corner. Take care with some small chockstones, and enjoy the beautiful parallel off-fingers crack section all the way into the steep conclusion at the top of the corner! Scramble 10m up and L to a chain around a tree.
Here's another foreshortened shot, this time making it look overhung when it fact it's vertical.
*** Deliverance 45m 23 (YP)
Another one of the major classics of the crag. An absolutely incredible route which might appear a little dirty but is an absolute mega classic!! Bouldery start up fused corner with absolutely zero faceholds, with a series of pin scars offering some sinker fingerlocks and so-so wires. With feet skating on nothing, you campus up a series of fingerlocks! Then into a 10m section of a 2-way corner crack, negotiated by doing funky cross-through jams! Next is a long fingertips cornercrack with a slippery blank wall on the L and a steep blank wall on the R split by a finger crack, against which you semi-chimney. The overhanging last 8m finishes it off with class, a big undercling move around a roof to establish a high stem stance then long reach up past an un-usable tips crack to a fingerlock, a few stems then into the final-moves crux. Up over-vertical corner with two great fingerlocks and crap feet, crank off the fingerlocks to some shocking slopy crimps, then more crap feet to finally get a better hold! Amazing!
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Look closely, Bob's up there, just below the crux.
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And here's a slightly less foreshortened view, showing Deliverance on the R, Devil's Dihedral in the middle, and Conquistador on the L. The crux of Conquistador is the beautiful overhung fingers section.
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And here's a photo of some guys on a 19 further along.
© 2002 Will