The Details: You've probably heard 2 things about this place: "dodgy bolts" and "sport climbing paradise". They're both true! Fortunately the number of dodgy bolts is being dramatically reduced by the efforts of the local climbing community who now preferentially place threads with bomber 10mm cord (take some cord to donate to their efforts). There is lots of up to date information about bolt quality too. Which leads me to the good bit - this place is bloody brilliant!! The climbing is unbelievably good, up steep solid waves of gorgeous limestone, usually blasting up blank polished walls by swinging from one pocket to the next! Then there's the weather....and the food....and the swimming.....and the elephant trips....and the islands...and the cheap prices....and the wonderful locals!!! So scrape together the airfare and just get there!!
It is also worth while to plan your trip according to the tides. In general you want low tide to be during the day, because the walk around to Ton Sai is best done below half-tide (although there's a muddy alternative at high tide), while several crags (Low Tide Wall and neighbours, Happy Island etc) are only accessible on foot at low tide. However you might want to factor in some high tide days as well, to allow boat-starts on some crags.
The rock: Limestone/karst. Beautiful smooth polished rock when overhung, most routes climb heavily pocketed sections or tufas and stalactities. It's nasty and sharp (and best avoided) on the vertical or slabby sections exposed to runoff or rainfall.
Accessibility:
Proper Terminology: Krabi is the name of the Southern Thailand province in which the whole area lies. Krabi is also the name of the city a 30-45 min boat ride E from the crags. Krabi is also the international airport you should try to fly into (Thai, Phuket Air and several other airlines do the Bangkok route; the Singapore route was temporarily out of action due to SARS while I was there).
Ao Nang is another town on the "mainland" accessible by bus, and is a little closer than Krabi to the crags by boat, but without an airport.
Phra Nang is the name of the ~10km long peninsula, which juts out into the Andaman??? sea and is absolutely festooned with karst (limestone) formations so big and so dense that no roads go out along the peninsula. Phra Nang is also the name of the beach on the end of the peninsula, with the best swimming and Happy Island just offshore.
Raylae aka Raylei aka Raelee (etc) is the name of the main village out on the Phra Nang Peninsula where most people stay. Raylae East beach is where boats from Krabi come in, and Raylae West beach (nicer than the East) is where boats from Ao Nang come in.
Ton Sai is the name of the beach 300m NNW of Raylae West beach, and also the name of the "village" (group of shacks) on that same beach. Ton Sai Beach is sometimes incorrectly called Andaman Beach.
This is a view looking North over the Phra Nang Peninsula, with 9 of the climbing areas indicated.
A view of the Western side of the Phra Nang Peninsula, with 9 of the climbing areas indicated, and also showing Raylae village nestled in the trees.
 *** 1-2-3 Crag ** Muay Thai
NORTH EAST FROM RAYLAE
PHRA NANG BEACH
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*** Thaiwand Wall
TON SAI BEACH
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Climbing in Thailand Simon Foley's outstanding site should be your first stop. TheCrag.com As always. Use this powerful database before you go, and record your Thai ticks after you get back.
© 2003-2004 Will