We've accumulated too much for one page, so here is the old stuff. More current mail is here.

We haveposted stuff here, but please note that does not mean we agree with or endorse anyone's troubleshooting prowess. Heck, we don't know! We rely on our Ford dealers to keep our Windstar running. Also you need to know we don't check our e-mail on a real regular basis, so you may not see your comments posted in a timely fashion. Having said that, we've divided up some of the mail into categories. We hope there's something interesting for you here. Please note when readers are quoting dollars they may be Canadian or US depending on where they're writing from.

WE LIKE IT

From Ed Blessman, Nov 2003

Where to start the list. Ours is a '96 with limited options. It currently has 140k and has cost us about US$2,500/year in major maint. Replacements include: ABS pump and control (leaking break fluid ruined control) Dash electronics (no cruse control and harsh shifting) Steering rack (PS has made noise from day one, it is getting louder again) Head gaskets (Ford hosed me for the job, but the dealer botched it and the entire engine went within 200 miles. They paid for rental, hotel, travel and a boatload of other expenses. They used a short block for replacement.) The thing eats serp belts. They start chirping at about 8 months. Transmission, I didn't let Ford touch it. Had a local shop do it. Rear heat/cool controls. There is now a high pitched squealing on cold starts and a check engine light. I hope that a new serp idler will stop the squeal and I'll let my mechanic use some sealant and retorque the intake to try and get rid of the CE. Get me through the winter and I am looking at Toyota

From Beach Blue Maui, Sept. 2003

I traded my Mitsubshi Diamante for a Ford Windstar. I drove the car for a test drive and it was fine. I had problems with the interior light, the inside lights won't go off. When I go to a stop light and the light changes the car stalls and then kicks. I can't wait to get rid of this car.

from Bruce and Roberta Boylan in Edmonton, Sept. 2003

We leased a 1997 Windstar, then decided to buy a new 1999, with the four doors. My best friend has a '96, my son has leased a 98, and now has leased a 2003 Sport. We absolutely love them. We have had next to nothing in the way of problems. They run fantastic, and we put lots of KM's on em. we never let a maintenance date go by, and always return to the dealer for service. Look after them, they will last. It's always been Ford.

from "Mr. Goatee" July 2003

I purchased a 2001 Windstar SE in June of 2001 and it's got all the gadgets of the SEL and it's great. I live in the n/e USA and have taken it to Florida and North Carolina twice and Ohio and drive in big city traffic regularily. I recommend the entertainment package (TV/DVD) for all those who take long trips with kids; itÕs been worth the additional cost. I've read many of the stories on your sight and can say that the '01 model does not suffer from many of the problems that seem to be common in the mid 90's models. The engine has plenty of power and the doors work as expected. The only complaint I have is the rear bench seat is very heavy to remove and I heard Ford is considering a fold down seat in future models. I would strongly recommend the Windstar to anyone considering a minivan.

from "the Franks"

Comment: We have 149000 miles on our 97 Windstar and we still love it!! We have been towing a camper with the van for the last three summers the camper weighs 3500lbs

Alex & Ilva Burger, Nuremberg/Germany

Comment : We really love our "Windy". About 50.000 kms with no problems on the road, some of them on very bad east european roads, especially Lithuania and Latvia. Great Auto!

Roy and Shari Funkhouser, Tacoma, WA

Comment : We purchased a 2000 Windstar after much research. Everything we read was a 5-star rating. However, our research proved that the 3.8L engine was the better engine. We love it! So far, so good! ...

Dave W, Fruitland, Md.

Comment : We love our Winstar LE. It is our first Mini Van. As new grandparents we felt the need to have a more versatile vehicle. We have made several long trips and it's more than adequte

WE DON'T LIKE IT

From Ed Blessman, Nov 2003

Where to start the list. Ours is a '96 with limited options. It currently has 140k and has cost us about US$2,500/year in major maint. Replacements include: ABS pump and control (leaking break fluid ruined control) Dash electronics (no cruse control and harsh shifting) Steering rack (PS has made noise from day one, it is getting louder again) Head gaskets (Ford hosed me for the job, but the dealer botched it and the entire engine went within 200 miles. They paid for rental, hotel, travel and a boatload of other expenses. They used a short block for replacement.) The thing eats serp belts. They start chirping at about 8 months. Transmission, I didn't let Ford touch it. Had a local shop do it. Rear heat/cool controls. There is now a high pitched squealing on cold starts and a check engine light. I hope that a new serp idler will stop the squeal and I'll let my mechanic use some sealant and retorque the intake to try and get rid of the CE. Get me through the winter and I am looking at Toyota

From Beach Blue Maui, Sept. 2003

I traded my Mitsubshi Diamante for a Ford Windstar. I drove the car for a test drive and it was fine. I had problems with the interior light, the inside lights won't go off. When I go to a stop light and the light changes the car stalls and then kicks. I can't wait to get rid of this car.

From Tracey in Arkansas, August 2003

I am commenting on the information given by the owner of a harsh downshifting 98 Windstar. Mine is also having this problem. I have had it in the shop three times to be repaired. The PCM? valve was replaced, the computer was repaired. And the last time it was in they all but rebuilt the transmission. I have owned this van for one year and wouldn't you guess, the transmission is needing more repairs. If I could get the van running long enough, I would sell it.

from Bill Brothers, August 2003

We have had the full-boat collection of problems with our Windstar. If I hadn't gotten an extended warranty, this thing would have gotten stolen a long time ago... (assuming that If I left it downtime with the keys in it, that someone would want it.)

I blew the head gasket at 63,578 miles (just under the 64,000 mile limit at the time). The dealer replaced it, but didn't bother to clean any of the crap out of the engine. Net result: In less than 3000 miles the main bearings were shot and the engine wouldn't maintain oil pressure. The dealer put a short block in. Cost to me $475US. Upon picking up the car from the dealer, I drove it half a block and said something to the effect of "uhoh, they didn't get something right." I drove around the block and back into the dealership. They claimed it was working fine when it left. I explained that the transmission worked when I dropped it off and now it doesn't. They diagnosed it as a bad sensor. Another $174. 10,000 miles later the transmission quit working altogether. Towed it to the dealer. Dealer replaced the torque converter and rebuilt the transmission. Cost to me: $900. (I learned later it was the aluminum piston, not the TC). In the meantime we have had all of the standard problems with electrical. Interior lights stay on, door alarm chimes from time to time. (I finally disabled the rear door switch altogether). Side door rattles. The thing eats front tires. I am really happy if I get 20,000 miles on a set of front tires. We have replaced the power window switches twice. The rear A/C control no longer works (I thought $1400 was too much to fix it). Speed 1 on the front control doesn't work. The right rear brakelight doesn't come on. The light is good, the fuse is good, (the computer is bad?). The left power window motor is now out. The plastic headline lens are yellow and fogged to the point of making nighttime driving hazardous. We have ignored the standard quality problems related to the seat fabric, trim falling off, etc. This is all before the vehicle reached the 100,000 mile mark. Since I had purchased a third-party extended warranty, I was very fortunate. They have paid more than $14,000 in claims on this vehicle. Since it has expired at 100,000 miles, I have replaced the belts, waterpump, radiator, hoses, and of course tires, tires, and more tires. The car now has 136,000 miles on it. If I can make it last one more year, I will give to a charity. The question is whether I can get the damn check engine light to go off long enough to get my smog certificate. Without the cert, I can't register it with the state of California (land of insanity). It seems the only problem I haven't had is the rack and pinion one. (sshhh! don't even say that very loud.) It still looks good, but what stinking pile of crap.

I have had Toyota vehicles for years and have never encountered these kind of problems. I bought the van because of the low step-in height. My Mother-in-law cannot walk well and this fit the bill. No more domestic cars for me. I should not have listened to those guys at work telling me that Ford is now a high quality car.

from Elizabeth in Calgary, July 2003.

Hi Windstar guy and girl. I have had continual problems with my windstar. I replaced my head gaskets at 108,000 kilometers, which Ford refused to pay or pay part of. They said they would have considered paying if I had 100,000 kilometers. My sliding door has never closed properly with the interior light on intermittently since new. The dealer claimed to have replaced all of the sensors, but I don't know. This has caused me to replace the battery. I just replaced the transmission for $2700 two weeks ago and now my tension pully (idler pulley) has frozen. I have been quoted $600 and they want to replace the water pump as well??? My driver side window does not work very well when the temperature is below freezing, takes about 5 minutes to go up, the dealership fixed this problem while under warranty, Ha. This is my windstar story, which is not a happy one. Seems to have developed major problems after 100,000 kilometers (60,000 miles). Any suggestions on what I should do with this vehicle? I cannot afford a new vehicle at this time but I can no longer afford these expensive automotive repair bills either. Thank you for listening.

from the Bengston family, May 2003

Hey Windstarguy(s)- (From Chicagoland area- NOT A HAPPY CAMPER- have a small pop up camper but not sure I will be able to keep using my Windstar to pull it) Purchased a 98 Windstar 3.0 in March 98. Now, w/42K miles- we have a problem. When the car is warmed up (after about 20minutes of running), and the car reaches 3rd gear the transmission slips and revs into low gear. I took it to the nearest dealer, and they suggested: replace the HDL (or something) sensor, as well as a speed sensor, and a flush- $650, but said no problem showed on their trans scanner. Because they also said the right and left motor mounts needed replacement (as well as the left front bearings) totalling $1200 plus- AND, YES I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE DOOR AJAR LAST MONTH ($170.00) - I went to the dealer where I purchased the van.

Regarding the trans, they advised to just have the trans fluid flushed/replaced for $150.00 (and it would fix the downshifting?). Thought could do for less, so, I brought it to AAMCO, where they advised a trans flush will do more harm than good and would not fix the problem.

Thanks! P.S. Not sure it's true, but, (the nearest dealer said the door ajar was a safety issue and should have been covered by the standard 5yr warranty too).

Here's a follow up report, June 7,2003

Turns out the problem has been fixed with a MLP sensor by the dealership (that sold me the van). I rode with a Ford service "Transtech specialist' who was able to identify the problem in 5 minutes. They charged $175, but I negotiated $120 with a service mgr after crying foul on the door ajar charge. Not bad after all... By the way, they also told me there is nothing wrong with the motor mounts, or front bearings. If I followed the advice at the (nearest) Ford dealer, I'd have lost a $1000.00. Good luck to you all!

P.S. The door ajar and dome light are back on again- seems its the sliding door. Last time it was the tailgate. Another $170?

from Pat, May 2003, Oroville CA

To put it short and not so sweet, add our 96 Windstar to the list of another blown 3.8L engine. We can't aford to fix it, so we are going to donate it to a charity and take the 7 cents on the dollar deduction on our taxes. If there is a class action lawsuit with Ford we would like to be included.

Top Ken Hildebrandt, Ypsilanti

Comment : perhaps you've never tried a basic repair on this non servicable junk.

from Julie, February 2003, re: '96 Windstar

We have had problems with our 96 Windstar for the past 2 years. It began with the heater no longer heating the car. Our dealership gave us an estimate of $1400.00 to repair a valve that wasn't operating. The car was a few months past it's warranty. We temporarily solved the problem by having an independent dealer force the valve to stay open. It didn't last for long... This week the engine blew. We are now faced with a $4000.00 repair bill again from an independent dealer. I am just beginning research into this, but am considering filing a small claims suit against Ford...if I can figure out how to do it.

From Boston

Comment : I very much wanted to believe in the Ford product - so after a 10 years of avoiding Fords in 96 I purchased a new Windstar. After an excellent maintenance history, in 2000 after only 50k miles - the enine blew up and I was forced to replace it.....

Kelton Gunter, Benbrook, TX

Comment : my '98 w/ 66k miles blew its 3.8L motor when the oil filter adapter (the part that it screws onto also screws into the motor) came unscrewed and the oil filter and the screw disappeared. Acura Care Extended Warranty will not cover it. $4,200 to replace ...

C.L. Manley, Bellingham, Wa.

Comment : I use my 1996 Windstar as a delivery vehicle for my florist business. I am a stickler for prevenetive maintenance. And still had to replace the entire transmission after 80,000 miles. ...

Lynn, Near Cleveland, Ohio

Comments : I have a 1998 Windstar with 38,000 miles that I would like to push into Lake Erie. I just had to have the rack replaced and the serpentine belt. Every time I turn around there are little annoying things going on....

Doug, Sugar Land

Comments : I like what the Windstar is supposed to be, but very disappointed in the quality

Carolyn Case, Colorado Dealer Blues and other comments

FYI We purchased a used Dealer 1998 Ford Windstar minivan the end of 1998. It had about 28,000 miles on it. We do like it but have had some problems with it. The front brakes were replaced in 2000. The Dealer said nothing was wrong with the van when I took it back in after hearing noises. Later I had to have the back brakes replaced. They had worn down to metal. I went to another place of course. Now my brakes are making noise again and I think it's the front ones.

POSSIBLE SOLUTION from a Windstarguy visitor:

Brake noise or brakes wear out fast. These could be several things. Here are a few fixes. It they are wearing out fast: Ford capiliters slide on two bushings, these are designed to adjust the front brakes, odds are they need to be greased (DO NOT USE WD-40, it is flammable and could cause a fire) instead use liquid wrench or wheel bearing grease. If the brakes are just making noise the next time you change or have them changed sand down the ends at a 45% angle - these help the brake dust escape.

We also had trouble with the interior lights staying on. Nothing could be found by the Dealer. After the van dying on me several times, I took it into the Dealer and they did replace a computer component. They actually put in an update. No more problems with it dying.

We have had problems with the door ajar light coming on. For the back door lift and now the side sliding door. I get tired of testing doors and will try cleaning the contacts.

I won't buy another one due to the turning radias {NOTE-I drive a company-owned 2002 Windstar and it turns much tighter - Windstarguy}. I have to make wide turns or run over the curb and it's difficult to make wide turns at all times. So people just have to wait on me or get out of my way.

Other than those problems, the van is nice to own. The Dealer here could be nicer. But I'm sure they all could. Once you've purchased it , you are no longer their concern. They have your money. So, I spend more money at other repair places and they lose out on that. I had heard that all used cars were required to have new front brakes before being sold again. I'm not sure about this but I know that was never mentioned to me when purchasing my used van. I now have about 48,000 miles on it.

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TECH PROBLEMS - ENGINE ETC.

From: rvhobo1969 Air Filter Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003

Hi,Could someone please tell me the trick to change the air filter on a 1998 windstar 3.0 Thanks

"A F" Windstar heater problem. Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003

In our van (1996 model) the heat works in the back but not in the front. We have flushed the heater coil out, checked the temperature control, and nothing. We tried to change the thermostat but the bolt is thin and on tight and out of fear of braking the thing we have not changed it. The defrost is seriously cold but if it is set to be by legs it isn't quite as cold. Can anyone give us any ideas on what to do?

From Bob Victor Nov 2003 PCV Valve, anyone?

I still can't find the PCV valve on our 1998 3.8L Windstar. It's at 100,000 and time to change. I looked in the Haynes Manual and it shows it on top of the front valve cover. Not there. Another "posting" service suggestion gave a suggestion about locating a "throttle body" etc etc. I don't follow highly technical directions but I'd like to replace it. Is there a layman's description for locating this pesky valve? Thanks for your Suggestions

From: Jim Ballinger 99 Windstar that won't start Sat, 22 Nov 2003

Have a '99 Windstar that has begun having electrical problems. The battery went dead but could be recharged enough to start the car, but then by next morning the battery was down again. The battery finally went completely dead and we replaced with a new battery. Now the new battery only works if we start the car about every 10 to 16 hours, if we wait 24hrs. the battery has discharged again.

We took to a local mechanic, got no answers, who then sent us to a Ford dealer. The Ford dealer said they could find no problem and sent us home. The discharging problem continues and this a.m. there was not enough charge to even operate the door locks. We assume that there is some sort of short that is draining the battery but the Ford dealer said that isn't so. Please help us, Thank you, Jim Ballinger

From Vera, Sept 2003 Installing Speed Sensor Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003

I have a 1999 Ford Windstar LX and I need to know how to replace the speed sensor (XF2Z-7H103-AA) Where is this sensor located?

From David Quintana Engine light stays on

Is there something wrong? Just under 37,000 miles, book says might be a gas/exhaust problem. I dont want to pay 100 to hook up to computer. David Quintana Commercial Production Manager KRQE News 13 764-5271

From: "Bob Victor" Subject: Have You Changed Your Sparks Plugs on Your Windstar Yet? LOL Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003

This is a war story some of you may enjoy. I set out to change the spark plugs on my 1998 Windstar 3.8L Van. I bought a pair of double platimum plugs at 97,000 miles. One weekend I came face to face with a modern reality about cars that I had avoided for quite some time - "They now make'em so as ya can't work on 'em yourself anymore!" That being said, I set out (as I often do) to prove them wrong. Only this time I won! Two months and 2,000 miles later, the new plugs were in!

This is how I did it: After checking a few posting sites, I received both the advice to get the three rear plugs changed by a) going over the engine, and b) going under the Van. I removed the plastic plenum twice in different attempts, and removed all nature of wires, to hopefully to return them all to the correct spot after my defeat each time. Do not waste your time trying to get the plugs from above. The only way to go is LOW. When you finally decide to get serious about getting under your van, WAIT UNTIL THE VAN IS COMPLETELY COOL!

You have to become quite intimate with this beast. Using three different extensions and a joint on the rachet wrench is required, but your fingers must work where you can't quite see underneath the Van, in order to pull the wire, position the plug wrench, and hope the joint doesn't give way under the torque of your wrench. It also helps to elevate the Van a bit on ramps to give you more room to squirm underneath it all as you comtemplate your mortality. I removed the third rear plug by pulling the wire off from under the van and loosened the plug with the wrench. After I could remove it by my fingers, I found it much easier to maneuver it out from there throught the front passenger wheel well. Seating the plug and spinning it finger tight is also best done this way. I'm sure it helps if you're right handed.

To finish it off, it's best to go underneath and to the rest or the work on this plug by snaking your left arm underneath the van like the other two. You have better leverage to wrestle the wire on as you finish the job. The front three plugs are easy enough they don't need to be mentioned. It's appropriate that the double platimum plugs shouldn't have to be changed for another 100,000 miles!!

From: AnntVrg@aol.com Wed, 27 Aug 2003 FUEL PUMP DOES NOT WORK AFTER SMALL COLLISION

I recently had a small collision in my 1995 Ford Windstar on the front driver side and when I tried to restart it the engine just kept cranking. I have reset the collision button in the rear of the van to no avail, and checked all the fuses. Is there something I am missing? Stranded in San Antonio, Texas. Hopefully someone can help me because the Ford dealer wants $85 to diagnose it plus the towing to the shop. HELP!

from Shawn Senger, Oil Pump problem, Sept.6 20036

We have a 1998 Ford Windstar in the family, it recently started making noise under the hood (sounded like it was time for a water pump), the Ford Dealer says it's the oil pump, and they won't (nor will any other mechanic) change it, it's easier to change the engine..........at the cost of $4200.00??? Has anyone else had this issue, or heard of this before?? Anyone know why they won't change the oil pump??? My brother-inlaw is also a mechanic, and says the same thing.. Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem,, and how it worked out. thanks for any input.

from the Pohls, engine hesitation May 2003

Dear Windstar guy. Thanks for the web-site. Do you know if anybody from Ford reads it? I'm going to need it!

I have a '96. There are a couple spots on my way to 70 mph where the engine hesitates in a way that tells me it's not getting gas (it happens about 40 and again between 55 and 65. It's my excuse to the trooper if I get pulled over in a 55 zone). It seems to be worse on hot days and after it's warmed up. The problem seems to be minimized if I accelerate quickly through those spots. In addition, after a long road trip (3 hours or more) the "check engine light" goes on. We're planning a 1,200 mile one way summer vacation so figuring this out before we go would be real nice. Thanks for any help you can lend. Ron and Theresa Pohl

POSSIBLE SOLUTION from a Windstarguy visitor:

There are a few people that have written about their engine's light coming on. Go to their local auto parts store and buy the book! Under the trouble shooting section, it will show you how to pull the codes out. Some thing to remember is after you fix the problem reset the computer, remove the negative battery cable for at lease one minute.

from Braysley, 3.8L engine needed in Michigan

We bought our Windstar minivan March 1996. In November 1998 I had spent $1985.00 on the heating system and the breaks. I even have documentation from the dealership that stated that the engine was pulling to the right three months after the van was purchased. In November, 2000 the engine blew on the highway. We tried to get Ford Warranty to take care of it, but we have no success. I spent $2000 on used engine after 10 months of being grounded. The use engine blowed again June 2002 after about one year. It has been a very bad experience for myself and my wife. We are still looking for an engine for the van. Can you help us? We have 1996 Winstar Minivan GL 3.8L motor. <If you can help, write Braysley at FamurewaB@michigan.gov>

Top from "INTERVAL" Problem with "check engine light"

Hi,just asking what you think a probable cause of my check engine light staying on and then temporarily shutting off again could be -this time I replaced the pcv and after a few minutes it went away.Now its back again. Please list the most common causes and fixes. Is this a particular problem with this year/engine size? I have 71,500 miles on it and its running about as regular as always. thanx!!

from "Lotus-Elan 7" Problem with EGR System

Just before the warranty expired, two EGR ports started spewing hydrocarbon paste. The dealer fixed it. They found Ford knew about the problem which they said was caused by the computer opening the EGR valve too soon. The computer was reprogrammed. The next year four EGR ports started spewing hydrocarbon paste - my opinion is that the EGR's opening at the wrong time allowed vacuum in the intake to draw exhaust gasses into the EGR chamber in the intake manifold. When the EGR began working legitimately, it pushed this mixture, now condensed into hydrocarbon paste, back out into the ports plugging them. I had to disassemble all of the parts and clean the intake manifold, both the plastic top half and the bottom half which contains the EGR system.

Now at 96,000 miles the head gasket is leaking. Ford has an extended warranty for head gaskets for certain Windstars depending on VIN number. Mine is not included. Maybe the next class action suit will include my vehicle. The big problem here is that the motor has become so contaminated that even when the head gasket is fixed the inside of the motor will be choked with muck.

It is a nice vehicle but mine has spent too much time being lame. I should have bought a Suburban. The cost of the additional fuel would have been far cheaper than the anguish and the repairs to this vehicle. Plus, when I had the initial EGR problem the dealer had the car for half a week just trying to figure out what was wrong!

The dealer had to have known or strongly suspected that the intake need removal and cleaning. I do not work on cars for a living but it was clear to me and subsequently my mechanic friends who own shops, etc. that there was a problem in the design or the execution of this EGR system. Ford knows about it. They have a "hidden" computer change that evidently masks or diminishes but does not fix the problem - the computer reprogram changes it so the vehicle does not go into "limp home" when the problem occurs. Only the "check engine" light comes on.

from Jim, Problems with EGR Ports

I have a question about my 98 Windstar. I did a search on the internet for "EGR ports" and "clogged EGR ports" and I found about 70 items. Several of which happened to discuss problems with these ports on Ford Windstars, and one of the other posts had your email address. Our car has about 52k miles and was having stalling problems. The local Ford dealer found 1) the I.E. Control valve to be bad, 2)a vacuum leak, and 3) the EGR ports were clogged. All of this would have costed me $900 or so dollars. Instead I opted for #'1 and 2, which fixed the stalling.

Now I am wondering if there is something I can buy(like a fuel injector cleaner) to clean the ports. I have seen some things mentioning blowing out the ports, but I am not really equipped(knowledge and equipment) to handle this. I am hoping for an inexpensive repair because we will probably be selling it within a year. Any advice?

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TECH PROBLEMS - INTERIOR LIGHTS

from "Dick" Problem with interior lights

I too have a 1998 windstar. I want to share my woes with the interior lights. It's not that they don't work, they won't turn-off! We moved from Indianapolis, Indiana to Natchitoches, Louisiana USA a month after buying our windstar, so we lost having the original dealer service opportunity. It basically gave us good performance until the warranty ran out. The local dealer didn't seem to have a clue. His reliability could be summed up with the diagnosis he came up with when I showed him the used oil looking power steering fluid: "It's a faulty tie-rod'. Anyway, we ended up removing the interior light bulbs to keep from killing the battery. We're saving money, but it sure gets dark some nights.

from "Jorge Pais" Problem with interior lights

Hello, I came across your site and we also own a 98' Ford Windstar. A "Limited Edition" it is great but we have encountered a occurring problem which I don't know if you have seen. That the interior lights stay on after the van has been turned off and key removed from the steering column. We do have the delaying lighting but the lights stay on from 15-45 min afterwards. I've known of other owners having the same problem. Do you any answer or know of where I can get some help on this. I did also have that same problem with the slider not locking. Had contact strip replaced at a body shop 5 minute job.

from Jason Flack Problem with interior lights

Hi there, i have just bought a 98' ford windstar And i had a Q for you! does your inside lights stay on? If so what was the problem with it? Other than that the van is a sweet ride!! from Donald Reynolds Can you tell me how to get to the Door ajar switchs on a 1998 ford winstar? I am having trouble with the alarm staying on indicating the doors are not closed. I check all doors and all will be closed properly. Is there a way to disconnect the alarm? It is getting on my nerves.

DOOR AJAR LIGHT

We've heard from so many people about this that it warrants a special section, so here you go:

Top

POSSIBLE SOLUTION from a Windstarguy visitor:

Door Ajar or interior lights will not go out? This is a common problem on all Ford vehicles, most of the time it is the driver side switch though it could be any of the doors' switches. All you need to do is clean the contacts and adjust the switch if necessary.

from Jon Erickson June 2003

After washing van, the dash idiot light(door ajar) and the interior lites will not shut off. In previos occurances I've cleaned the contacts and prongs on sliding door this seemed to work,until now. I can't see any switches on the two front,rear hatch doors,they must be internal. Any suggesttions or clues what, where to fix? I'm somewhat mechaically inclined,and would rather fix it myself then spend hundreds to let someone else try. HELP!!! Thx, Jon

from Jeff Tucker, Lagrange GA, Problem with door ajar light

We have a Windstar that the door ajar light will stay on even after making sure all the doors are shut (repeatedly) this usually happens during cold wet weather this will leave on the light even after turning off ignition Any suggestions? I was wondering what kinda switch or relay might be bad. It is very annoying because it makes the door ajar chimes go off the entire time you are driving.

POSSIBLE SOLUTION from Jeff:

Hey, figured it out. A can of WD-40 and electrical contact cleaner fixed it all. The row of contacts on the sliding side door become corroded and the switches inside the door latch can stick. So cleaned the the contacts and lubed the doors and about 5 minutes later the chimes went away...

POSSIBLE SOLUTION from Craig Owen, Owen Automotive Ltd. Toronto, Ontario

The most common problem would be from a bad door switch, if the switch intermittently loses contact that will cause the interior lights to stay on and the chime to "ding". Another source could be a problem with what Ford calls a GEM module and this module is what takes the signal from the door switches and then sends a command to the interior lights and door chimes. The first thing to do is check all of the door switches and see if you can identify one that is acting up, if you cannot find any problem there then the van would have to go to a shop that has the appropriate scan tool to diagnose the GEM module. Hope this helps.

POSSIBLE SOLUTION from Bud Sowell, St. Loius MO

Hey! I had the same problem with our '98 Windstar with the "door ajar" light and the ding ding ding till you're goofy warning chime. Also the dome light was'nt turning off. I figured that they both worked together, and I was right. Once you fix the door ajar, the dome light goes out. Pretty cool eh? [Bud speaks Canadian! - WG.]

What I did to fix the problem was the same thing Jeff did. I cleaned the contacts on the slider and WD-40'd the door captures, and with a little reluctance, it worked.Remember though, the chime rings only when the driver side door is ajar. The other doors only keep the warning and the dome light on. At least on my van.

P.S. I would rid myself of this vehicle if it was'nt paid for. And that still might not stop me.

POSSIBLE SOLUTION from Terry Haas, June 1, 2003

We have a 1998 Ford Windstar that would display a door ajar light constantly. I figured it was the rear hatch/door in the back of the vehicle which usually needs to be slammed to make the light go off. This time, I couldn't get the light to go off at all. I figured there were mechanical switches in the latches on each side of the rear hatch/door. I figured these switches were not opening due to lack of lubrication so I shot some WD-40 into each latch and worked the rear hatch several times and my door ajar problem disappeared.

UPDATE and more tips frrom Terry, June 2003

This last two weeks I've been on a Windstar fix mission. Yesterday I discovered what was causing the rear A/C to malfunction. The symptoms: * Turn on A/C and set rear fan control to cooling. * The upper vents do not work and hot air comes out the heating vent instead of cool air. * The problem was intermittent at first. Sometimes the rear A/C would work but eventually it stopped working altogether. I bought a Haynes repair manual for $14 at the local auto parts dealer. (I do not recommend this manual!) The manual had some pictures of the rear A/C fan assembly but no printed information on how the hot water and air flow was controlled. There was one picture of a hot water valve that can be reached from underneath the vehicle. There is also another motor that controls the air flow to the upper A/C vents that wasn't working. I figured that there was a relay or switch that was malfunctioning but the wiring diagram didn't mention anything about a heater valve and air flow motor. I went underneath the vehicle and pulled the wire off the heater valve only to discover that it was a vacuum line! My rear A/C was not working because I was not getting any vacuum when the rear A/C was supposed to be ON.

The Haynes manual doesn't mention anything about vacuum controlling anything in the rear A/C but there is a picture of the rear A/C fan switch in there and you can see the vacuum lines plugged into the top of it. I replaced the rear A/C fan control switch and everything started to work again. It took me about 20 minutes to replace the switch: * Remove the two small hex screws near the ashtray/drink holder underneath the front A/C- heat control panel. * Pull up on the plastic molding that covers the A/C-heating control panel. There are four hex screws that hold on the A/C-heat switch panel that need to be removed. * The rear A/C fan switch is on the far right. There is a small 1/4" hex screw is holding the switch in place. Remove the screw and replace the switch.

There is one multi-pronged electrical connector and a vacuum connector that snap into the back of the switch. The switch cost was approx $23(US) plus tax from the local Ford dealer. I don't know if the auto parts store carries these or not. The dealer told us it would cost at least $200+ to fix the van and would take two days. I'm going to replace a faulty electric window motor next.

SUGGESTION from a Windstarguy visitor:

As for the people asking for wiring diagrams etc., go to your local Ford dealer's parts section and they will print out almost any thing you want for your vehicle I have do this many times, as for parts do not forget about junk yards. You will be amazed at what you can find, remember a lot of parts are the same on different makes if you need a part for your 3.0 windstar and you can not find a Windstar then check a 3.0 Taurus.

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SUGGESTION from Carl in Wisconsin, Sept. 2003

I too have had my share of frustrations with the door ajar (interior) lights coming on and draining the battery. After cleaning all the contacts, and having the dealership tell me how much it would cost to troubleshoot and fix (and even then it's not permanent), I decided to tinker a bit first. I went to RadioShack and bought a rocker switch with an inline automotive-type fuse. I located the regular fuse in the Windstar that controls the interior lights (easy using the service manual or Chiltons), pulled it out and jammed in the ends of the wires coming from the rocker switch. Mounted the rocker switch on the lower left of the dash, perfect for hitting your knee when you get in. Now, when the interior lights won't shut off, I just hit that rocker switch and force them off. Only drawback is I have to turn it back on to use the power windows. But for a $5 fix (vs. about $500 at the dealership) I can live with the minor inconvenience! Hope this helps.

from Derek and Dana Ferland , Weird problems with door ajar alarm

I've seen several posts on your web site about a recurring problem with the door ajar alarm going off intermittently. We have a '98 Northwoods 3.8L with about 65,000 miles on it. Lately the beeping goes off at odd times. Sometimes it seems to go off when we mess with the fan knobs. Other times it seems to come on when the car slows down and goes away when we speed back up. Very strange. The only solution I saw was to try cleaning the contacts on the door slide. Is there anything else that can be checked/replaced? Thanks.

from Ed Kopanshy, Where is the door alarm?

Hey, thanks for the great web site. I find it really informative. I have that annoying alarm sounding that a door is not closed or something. I too have tried many things (advice from your other readers/supporters too). NO LUCK. Now I just want to remove that "bell/buzzer/device" so I don't have to hear it anymore. Where is it?????

from Steve Grasser Problem with door ajar light

I have a windstar that the door ajar light will stay on even after making sure all the doors are shut (repeatedly) this usually happens during cold wet weather this will leave on the light even after turning off ignition Any suggestions? from Ed King i own a 1998 3.0, my problem is this the wipers will not go off or delay. After some time they will go off after about 15 to 30 minutes. Any suggestions. if i unplug the motor and plug it back in they will turn off.

Steve Hasley, South Lyon Michigan Problem with door ajar light

Comments : I have a 98 Windstar, the siding door contact on my van also had to be replaced. Now the 'Door Ajar' light on the dash comes on when it should not. All doors can be secure and we will still get this warning. I have over 80,000 miles on my van...

from Trisha, Problem with door ajar light

I have a 98 ford windstar and I have a problem with the door alarm saying the doors are not shut and now I have a problem with the power locks not working and making a clicking noise like they are stuck. Have you any information on what is causing this and what can be done to fix it? HAVE A GOOD DAY!

from Jerry Watson, Problem with door ajar light

my 98 Windstar just developed a problem. Maybe you have the solution. The "door ajar" light stays on constantly. There are no doors ajar. There are also no visible sensor switches on the doors that I can find to see what's wrong. Any help?

from M Perry, door alarm stays on at low speed

We have a Ford Windstar 1998, 3.8. The door alarm stays on when you are under 15 mph. Is there anyway to disconnect the alarm so we can't hear it?

from Niki Sprauer, door chimes stay on at low speed

How can I fix these door sensors? Door ajar light is constantly on. When driving with headlights on the chimes are especially annoying and only go silent after a speed of 20 (?) mph is reached. My 97 windstar also has a leaky head gasket at 64k miles. I hate this van. I have 4 kids, my wife is a stay at home mom, and now I find out that ford has a history of problems with this van. It kind of feels like this corporation has used and violated families by selling such a lousy product.

from David Riek in Florida, June 2003, how about door chimes at high speed?

Greetings! I have a problem where once 75mph is reached, the chime comes on and won't shut off until I get under 75mph. When you travel a lot, there are times were exceeding this amount is practical and I don't want this chime going off. I would rather not disable the chime altogether: it is used to signal many things. I just want to disable this chime whenever a reach or exceed 75mph. Any ideas? Thanks for your help.

They said it was . . get this . . A FEATURE. It was put in as a "safety" item for families. What a crock! :-)

from Chuck Bohleke, July 2003

Dear Windstar Guy, I am the unfortunate owner of a 1998 Windstar (purchased new and complained about ever since). The transmission hasn't failed yet, but I'm sure it will soon (my sister-in-law and brother-in-law are on their third). We recently drove from New Mexico to Florida and encountered the notorious door ajar problem, but after finding your site I sprayed it with WD-40 which solved the problem. You saved me the price of the service, parts, and labor. Thanks for your taking the time to create such a worthwhile site.

Thanks Chuck! [Windstar Guy and Gal]

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TECH PROBLEMS - OTHER

Nov 2003 Noise

!hi windstarguy.... I have a question about my 2000 ford windstar wich I bought at the beggining of the year with 35000 miles. everything it's ok but a few weeks ago i started hearing this noise everytime I turn leftÊ I don't know if its a cv joint or power steering problem...the noise sounds like some plastic scratching metal with no lubricant. i hope you can help ......just give me an idea because i got no clue what it is and am afraid to take it to the dealership I got no warranty it expired.......thanks Ralvarez355@cs.com

From Rob Laudeman 1999 Windstar battery/electrical problem Sept 2003

We have begun to have a recurring problem with our 1999 Windstar. We purchased a new battery in March 2003. Over the past several months the van has failed to start at various times - often after having just been driven somewhere and being off for a short period of time. The van starts when jumped and when we have connected a battery charger the battery appears to be nearly completely discharged. However, the battery appears to hold a charge after being charged by the charger. We have turned off all interior lights and taken care not to leave anything plugged into a power jack inside the vehicle. The problem has been very random but extremely frustrating.

from Carl Lien, August 2003 320.259.3091 SHIFTING PROBLEM

I have a 97 Windstar GL . Just recently it seems to downshift out of overdrive for a few seconds then shift back into overdrive. When I bought the vehicle used 4 years ago it had a similar problem where it would down shift and stay in a lower gear. A mechanic replaced some kind of electronic module that controls the shifting. I can't remember what this was called or whether this could be acting up again. Now it is a brief downshift. Have any suggestions?

From: "TerriAnne Caraluzzo" in Milford PA Dirty Fuel Filter '98 3.8L

I just spent 1.5 hours trying to replace the fuel filter on my 98 windstar 3.8. I cannot free the front fuel line from the filter. Is there any special method or am I just stupid? I would appreciate any assistance you or other Windstar owners would give me.

Answer from Keli Yang. August 2003

There is a black plastic clip in place, and there is a spare clip provided. You need to change these clips when you change the fuel filters. If you bought your filter from K-mart or somewhere, the clip was not included, but you are OK because there is a spare in your car. Next time you will have to buy a clip from Ford.

From Greg Wedge, July 2003, Timmins Ontario ABS Brake Module

hi, just a note if u could help me my van right now has a abs problem my dedals brake goes to the floor so i changed mastercylinder and still does it. ford wants 2300.00 to change abs module my van only has 76,000 km. this price is awful. i think ford canada should replace this part at no cost this is a safety feature. we cant afford this kind of repair already spent 500.00 to find out. about abs module..

We tried to reply to Greg's e-mail but couldn't. So here's our reply:

Hi Greg, Your mileage is about the same as ours. I don't know if Ford have any kind of hidden warranty on ABS units. You might try checking Phil Edmunston's Lemon-Aid site for hidden warranty info as well as ideas on getting Ford to pay attention. I personally doubt that Ford will replace the unit for you at their cost as it is out of warranty after all, but if you ask them for some help where you are prepared to pay some of the cost, they may help you out. I'm no lawyer, but they probably have no legal obligation to pay for this repair.

First, talk to your Ford dealer and see what they will do for you. They may go to bat for you with Ford. If they don't do anything, then second, contact Ford Canada directly. Your dealer can give you the phone number for Ford customer service, or you can e-mail them through their web site at www.ford.ca. If they tell you "too bad", then I suggest you e-mail Mr. Gilles Contant, VP of Ford Customer Service in Canada, at gcontant@ford.ca and ask for his assistance. He might pass it along to another service rep to contact you in person.

But follow the steps: 1. Dealer, 2. Ford Customer Service, before you take it higher up. Ford will probably ask if your dealer has confirmed that in fact the ABS unit is the problem, so have that info ready for them. They will also want your vehicle indentification number (VIN).

I suggest the best approach is to be as calm and reasonable as you can, to invite them to work out a mutual solution, because we're never dealing with a faceless corporation, we're talking to real people with feelings who are in a difficult situation of dealing every day with people who have problems with their vehicles, so a little good ol' Canadian politeness (but you can be firm and ask quesions) might make the people at Ford willing to work with you on this. That sounds like a very expensive repair, so I hope they help you out. Good luck.

Jonas Miglinas wrote, July 2003 Turns over but won't start when hot

Bought this car late last summer with 80k on the odometer.Never had a problem (except intermittent door ajar alarm) untill now. When I drive the van untill it is fully warmed up, and if I turn off the ignition off, the car ever more frequently will not start. It will crank rapidly but acts like there is no gas or no spark. If I leave it alone for 5 minutes to a 1/2 hr it will start and run well again. The car idles well and so far the temperature gauge is always in the middle. Just now the engine light turned on and the code said po171: bank 1 is lean; The mechanic I talked to said it could be a host of things. I believe I fixed the "no start when hot" problem. I believe the fuel pump pressure relay had dirty contacts. Just a guess on my part, pulled the relay from the fuse box,(inside engine compartment) pulled the relay and noticed it was a bit dirty. I cleaned the contacts and itÕs been going strong since. The service engine light is still on, and the code is still the same,po171 bank 1 lean. I guess thatÕs my weekend project.

Pheo60@aol.com, July 2003 Stuck in Park

Our 1998 WIndstar gets stuck in park. We can do what the manual says and put it in neutral then start it, but then the brake lights are out. I've checked the fuses and they all seem to be okay. I thought there my be a relay, but was told there isn''t one. I hope I am checking the right ones. This just started and seems intermittent. It turned out a wire broke to the pigtail for the brake light switch. Purchased connectors and wire, fixed it.

From Robert Babbini, July 2003 Squealing and stalling, FIXED!

I have a 2000 LX with 40,000 miles, and began experiencing problems where the car started making a squealing noise from the engine. At first I brought the car in for routine service, where the dealer replaced the serpentine belt. After picking the car up, I still had the squealing noise occasionally and then the car suddenly stalled out. So I took the car back to the dealer and the car didnÕt act up for them. So I picked up the car and went through the same process where I had the sound the stalling out.

Took the car back a second time and still it would not act up for the dealer. This time I went back to pick up the car and when I started it, the car made the squealing noise, so I had the service manager come out and after several minutes they were able to figure out that the cam sensor was no good and cam synchro, which they replaced. IÕm happy to tell you or anybody that is out there this fixed my problem

Ron Fowler, AC vent problem

Hi, I have an Air Conditioner Vent problem with my 1996 Windstar. When I turn on the air to the vents it will only come out the defrost outlets. I can reach under the dash and pull the arm on the red vacuum valve shut or open and it will come out where it is suppose to. The same for the rear seat unit , I can pull the vacuum valve lever open and the air will come through where it is suppose to.I am not sure how to trouble shoot this problem. Any advise you can give me would be greatly appreciated.

SUGGESTION from a Windstarguy visitor:

Some of the posts you have put in are talking about vent problem the most common reason for these is a vacuum line off somewhere or a collaped line. So check for a leak find a line that is easy to get off that you have access to. Then blow smoke throw the lines( sorry if you don't smoke) the smoke will come out anywhere there is a leak. As for a collaped line they are much harder to find you will need a diagram and then start at the end ie the heater box and work you way back to the controls. Don't forget there are vacuum lines under the hood.

Dave Whitely, Carolina Problem with ride-leveling suspension

Comments:

I have recently come into the possesion of a 1995 Windstar LX with every option known to man. It was a gift from my sister-in-law to my wife and it has become a nightmare. I have been getting a light on the dash relating to the ride leveling suspension. After cycling the switch as instrusted in the owners manual the pump clicks off "?" and the van rides like a skateboard. The local Ford dealers figure to make their annual Profit from me. The vehicle only show 124000 miles. The dealer, Young Ford in Charlotte NC, want $900 to replace the air bags, pump, and sensors. They also want $1200 to replace the water pump but that's another story.

I have a hard time believing that all those parts went bad at the same instant and I'm also sure that only one of them is bad. How do I trouble shoot the problem, keeping in mind that I generally have to do the job three times to use up all the parts I dismantle. I've since had time to disable the air ride (per owners Manual) and jack up the car. It would appear that when my sister-in-law had the van serviced, they put it on a lift without turning off the air-ride controls and the bags are elongated and distorted and now won't work. I thought I might trick it into working (It's like letting the car heal itself, ever hopeful but not generally effective), but that proved unsuccessful. I'm looking for a solution other than "Let's replace every nut and bolt and then we'll get it right"; at what point did diagnostics become a forgotten skill in the auto repair business?

My boss (I work for a lumber yard and we have a fleet of Ford trucks) sent me to a mechanic that works on the company's trucks and it turns out that one of the guys worked for ten years in a Ford dealership and was sure he could troubleshoot the problem. To make a long story short, it was the compressor which we replaced with one salvaged from a wrecking yard ( I'm sorry, automobile dismantler) and he installed it. Total cost about $245 as opposed to the bid of approximately $1000 that the Ford agency quoted. I found the pump theough Parts.com and was given two different pumps available in my area. I thought you might like to know to add to your lore on the Windstar.

Rick, Milwaukee, WI Problem with blowing fuses

Comments : I read your site and it is interesting. I also have a Windstar, but a 3.8 engine. The reason I am curious about windstars is because of an electrial problem I am having with mine. I blown a fuse for the right tail light and replaced it....

Top J C Davis. Sliding door rattles and ADVICE ABOUT COOLANT LOSS

I just hit 125,000 miles on our 96 Windstar. I have had only very minor issues, and it still runs great. I do a lot of maintenance myself, but I had to pay $250 for the 100,000 mile tune up. I can't even see the back bank of plugs, much less reach them! I do have a persistent rattle in the sliding door. Any fixes out there? Also, in very cold weather (Michigan) it takes 10-30 seconds for a fast idle on a cold start. Any suggestions? Otherwise, it just purrs along. Here's something I ran across: I was starting to see some coolant loss, so I suspected the famous head gasket problem. I later found the little hose going from the radiator to the overflow tank was loose. Check this before panic sets in!

POSSIBLE SOLUTION to sliding door rattles, from the Pohls:

For the person with the rattling sliding door I can tell him about my fix. It started rattling after my wife hit the accelarator thinking the door was closed. It lurched back to the end and slammed into the back of its travel. It rattled for months. Solution: Open the door and stand on the floor looking down on the runner. If it's like my situation you will see the bracket that attaches the door to the rollers has shifted (look for markings that might indicate where it was originally). It's held in place with two nuts approx 1/4" (it's metric). Loosen the nuts, have somebody hold it in it's original place and tighten nuts. This is a newly found remedy so I don't know how long it will last.

Maria Pittsburgh, PA . Squeaking steering column

I have a 1999 Ford Windstar LX. Purchased used with 30,000 miles in November, 2000. In August, 2001 we needed to replace the IAC Valve. ($201.25) The car would not idle. Last month the check engine light came on, so I took it in for service. O rings were leaking, they needed to be replaced plus it needed a tune up to the tune of $811.00. Now I am hearing a squeaking in the steering column. Should I get it looked at or should I just put up with it? Your site mentioned tie rod ends, do you know what the cost would have been if it wasn't under warranty?

from Bill, speed control not working most of the time

We love our 1998 Windstar, even with all the typical problems, (interior lights, ABS Brake light, door ajar light, etc.). Mainly our problem is the speed control not working. It may work 1% of the time. When the set button is depressed the light flashes momentarily, but it does not engage. If I could find some kind of schematic on the system, I could troubleshoot the system. If you know of any typical problem areas, that would help as well. I have already checked the interior fuse panel and even changed the fuse even though it was good. Our dealer here is no help.

SUGGESTION from a Windstarguy visitor:

99% of the time it is a 15 dollar fix if you do it yourself. I can not remember the name, it is a Spring ??. It is located between the steering wheel and steering column. All you have to do is remove the steering wheel( special tool you can rent at most auto part stores) and replace this part. BE CAREFUL if you have an airbag, use your hanse manual.

Russell Dueck, Calgary Problem with harsh shifting

Comment : By the looks of your maintenance write up, it does not appear like you have encountered much for problems. I have a '98 Windstar GL. The major problems I have had are: 1) harsh shifting of transmission at low speeds, especially downshift...

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