Escape from the winter
rains
Tone's trip to El Gouna, 2003
I thought I’d let you good folk out
there know of a fab option for some chilled out living and great diving, and
it’s easy to arrange and affordable! Ever heard of El Gouna, no? Why not take a
look at Georgina’s web site, www.georginac.supanet.com it gives you the low
down and that’s just what I did! It was easy to arrange the flights and Georgina was always available for
advice and to smooth the way; pre arranging the dive pack and fridge stocks in
the apartment!
We, that’s Gill and me, travelled
with Excel Airways from Gatwick on the Friday, just 2 weeks ago, arriving in
Hurghada at around dusk. After the ol’ visa scenario, we were met by our
taxi-man, Patrek and were whisked just half an hour north to the sleepy town
they call El Gouna. Patrek was heroic, carrying 2 dive bags up to the apartment
(no mean feat, @50 kilos…!) There’s a courtyard and 3 flights of steps to get
there. The apartment is beautifully laid out, with a real feel to Egyptian
styling. The main room has a domed ceiling with a stunning chandelier ornately
hanging in the centre. There are so many light switches in the apartment it
took 3 days to work out how to operate the many wall and hanging lights… Doh!
Doors open onto a small balcony giving you a view across other pastel shaded
apartments to the lagoon (1 of many!). The bedroom has a curved roof giving a
cool ambience, and for those warmer nights there’s an air conditioner ready to
go! Beer in hand, we climbed the stairs outside to the roof terrace and settled
down in canvas chairs for the first of several fully chilled-out nights,
sipping beer and breathing the cool night air. (Georgina told me a story about
how she nearly got some benches and cushions for the roof terrace… but I’ll let
her tell you that one!) The only thing that disturbs you for a few moments is
the buzzing of the bug-man; using a diesel driven smoke machine to oust any
mosquitoes that might be lurking in the vegetation!
After 2 days of major chilling, we decided
to go-active and take up the pre-arranged a dive package and pick-up from the
Dive Tribe. The only thing s that moves fast in El Gouna are the taxis, and the
dive-bus was no exception! Signed in and kit transferred to boat boxes, we
headed off for the marina. Whoosh… dive-bus again! Welcomed aboard MV King, we
were briefed and away for the first dive (absolutely like clockwork; apartment
to dive, no worries…!) As Georgina is a registered agent for Dive
Tribe, you get club rates for the dive package, which makes everything very
reasonable. Again, look on G’s web site for details.
The diving was pretty good, healthy
corals, teaming fish-life, dolphins… y’know! We’d booked a 3-day pack, which
were 2 dives a day. Day 1 was checkout diving, but good briefs and no hassle.
No deco and 60 minutes was the main points! The second dive was at “Shabaha” (translates
to Ghost… the reef has never broken the surface, it just lurks below… very
Halloween!) we arrived at the mooring in the company of 2 bottlenose dolphins.
Pretty common in the Red Sea, but not these two! 4 snorkellers
from the boat entered the water while we kitted up for the dive. The dolphins
drifted up to them and accepted a touch or two! When we divers entered the
water quiet chaos ensued! They cruised up to everyone to say “Hi” and put on an
entertaining display of underwater acrobatics and fly-passes! Fabulous stuff!
They didn’t ignore anyone, back to the surface to see the snorkellers and then
more fun with the divers. Four cameras were down there, so there me be some
good records (Watch out for an article in Sport Diver Magazine by Peter Tatton
around February. He was out there to do an independent report on diving out of
El Gouna!) The dive went on, around the reef with beautiful sea fans and clouds
of silversides whirling around trying to confuse the attendant jack fish.
Meanwhile the dolphins were swimming upside down and cavorting around; crazy
animals! Pete had shot a whole roll of film, had gone up to the boat, changed
films and was back with the scene. The activities of the dolphins culminated in
them making love, in front of the amazed onlookers… Well, not in front of the
children, please! What a dive, and that was day one! Day 2 took us out to Abu
Nuhas (the renowned wreck graveyard). We dived the century-old Carnatic, a
beautiful carcass of a steel hulled steamer. All of her decks have rotted out
over the years, but her skeleton remains absorbed into the reef surrounding it.
Lunch onboard; velly good too! (For a massive £2.50…!) Next dive was on the
Chrisoula K. This is a modern wreck, sunk the 80’s. Big and bold; no comparison
to the Carnatic, which is serine and stately. Prop and rudder are still there
and the bridge super structure is covered in healthy coral growth. The
accommodation is accessible and contains 2 red mouth groupers, guardians to the
1000’s of sweepers that shoal inside (fabulous!) The dive guide had mentioned
shoals of fusiliers, jacks and … dolphins on this one… Ok. The fusiliers came
in like bees swarming, being schooled by jacks. Then, with only 4 of us still
in the water 7 dolphins in Red Arrows formation (perfect unison) streamed in
across the reef and bombed the fusiliers! Weh Hey, more fun! Another great day
out and more to come…. Day 3 was more gentle but beautiful reef diving and flat
seas. Excellent stuff! So, 3 days completed it’s “Chill Time”. Er… not quite!
Somehow I was talked into a 04.30 start and away aboard ‘King’ by 05.15 bound
for the Thistlegorm! That famous of wrecks, known for it’s cargo of guns, motorbikes,
trucks, railway stock and BIG fish. It’s a remarkable experience if you’ve not
done it before! Hanging in the current with big Black Snappers, Trevally and Big-eye Jacks and dog tooth tuna (2 meters
long!) is an experience to remember! Do be aware though: safari prices to go
there are a tad expensive and it’s ‘diver soup’ usually; 15 boats are not
uncommon as daily visitors!
Hey Guys, why don’t you go and see
it for yourselves? Just have a look-see at Georgina’s web site. Talk to her
about hiring her fabulous apartment; book yourselves a flight and go dive, Dive
Tribe!
If you’d like to talk to me about El
Gouna and chilling out Big Time, then gizza call at work (Witt’ Divers 01243
672031) or drop me a line, at mailto:tonethegnome@yahoo.com
All the best folks, hoping you’ve
had a good season and diving is still your passion!
Tone