Escape from the winter rains

Tone's trip to El Gouna, 2003

 

I thought I’d let you good folk out there know of a fab option for some chilled out living and great diving, and it’s easy to arrange and affordable! Ever heard of El Gouna, no? Why not take a look at Georgina’s web site, www.georginac.supanet.com it gives you the low down and that’s just what I did! It was easy to arrange the flights and Georgina was always available for advice and to smooth the way; pre arranging the dive pack and fridge stocks in the apartment!

 

We, that’s Gill and me, travelled with Excel Airways from Gatwick on the Friday, just 2 weeks ago, arriving in Hurghada at around dusk. After the ol’ visa scenario, we were met by our taxi-man, Patrek and were whisked just half an hour north to the sleepy town they call El Gouna. Patrek was heroic, carrying 2 dive bags up to the apartment (no mean feat, @50 kilos…!) There’s a courtyard and 3 flights of steps to get there. The apartment is beautifully laid out, with a real feel to Egyptian styling. The main room has a domed ceiling with a stunning chandelier ornately hanging in the centre. There are so many light switches in the apartment it took 3 days to work out how to operate the many wall and hanging lights… Doh! Doors open onto a small balcony giving you a view across other pastel shaded apartments to the lagoon (1 of many!). The bedroom has a curved roof giving a cool ambience, and for those warmer nights there’s an air conditioner ready to go! Beer in hand, we climbed the stairs outside to the roof terrace and settled down in canvas chairs for the first of several fully chilled-out nights, sipping beer and breathing the cool night air. (Georgina told me a story about how she nearly got some benches and cushions for the roof terrace… but I’ll let her tell you that one!) The only thing that disturbs you for a few moments is the buzzing of the bug-man; using a diesel driven smoke machine to oust any mosquitoes that might be lurking in the vegetation!

 

After 2 days of major chilling, we decided to go-active and take up the pre-arranged a dive package and pick-up from the Dive Tribe. The only thing s that moves fast in El Gouna are the taxis, and the dive-bus was no exception! Signed in and kit transferred to boat boxes, we headed off for the marina. Whoosh… dive-bus again! Welcomed aboard MV King, we were briefed and away for the first dive (absolutely like clockwork; apartment to dive, no worries…!) As Georgina is a registered agent for Dive Tribe, you get club rates for the dive package, which makes everything very reasonable. Again, look on G’s web site for details.

 

The diving was pretty good, healthy corals, teaming fish-life, dolphins… y’know! We’d booked a 3-day pack, which were 2 dives a day. Day 1 was checkout diving, but good briefs and no hassle. No deco and 60 minutes was the main points! The second dive was at “Shabaha” (translates to Ghost… the reef has never broken the surface, it just lurks below… very Halloween!) we arrived at the mooring in the company of 2 bottlenose dolphins. Pretty common in the Red Sea, but not these two! 4 snorkellers from the boat entered the water while we kitted up for the dive. The dolphins drifted up to them and accepted a touch or two! When we divers entered the water quiet chaos ensued! They cruised up to everyone to say “Hi” and put on an entertaining display of underwater acrobatics and fly-passes! Fabulous stuff! They didn’t ignore anyone, back to the surface to see the snorkellers and then more fun with the divers. Four cameras were down there, so there me be some good records (Watch out for an article in Sport Diver Magazine by Peter Tatton around February. He was out there to do an independent report on diving out of El Gouna!) The dive went on, around the reef with beautiful sea fans and clouds of silversides whirling around trying to confuse the attendant jack fish. Meanwhile the dolphins were swimming upside down and cavorting around; crazy animals! Pete had shot a whole roll of film, had gone up to the boat, changed films and was back with the scene. The activities of the dolphins culminated in them making love, in front of the amazed onlookers… Well, not in front of the children, please! What a dive, and that was day one! Day 2 took us out to Abu Nuhas (the renowned wreck graveyard). We dived the century-old Carnatic, a beautiful carcass of a steel hulled steamer. All of her decks have rotted out over the years, but her skeleton remains absorbed into the reef surrounding it. Lunch onboard; velly good too! (For a massive £2.50…!) Next dive was on the Chrisoula K. This is a modern wreck, sunk the 80’s. Big and bold; no comparison to the Carnatic, which is serine and stately. Prop and rudder are still there and the bridge super structure is covered in healthy coral growth. The accommodation is accessible and contains 2 red mouth groupers, guardians to the 1000’s of sweepers that shoal inside (fabulous!) The dive guide had mentioned shoals of fusiliers, jacks and … dolphins on this one… Ok. The fusiliers came in like bees swarming, being schooled by jacks. Then, with only 4 of us still in the water 7 dolphins in Red Arrows formation (perfect unison) streamed in across the reef and bombed the fusiliers! Weh Hey, more fun! Another great day out and more to come…. Day 3 was more gentle but beautiful reef diving and flat seas. Excellent stuff! So, 3 days completed it’s “Chill Time”. Er… not quite! Somehow I was talked into a 04.30 start and away aboard ‘King’ by 05.15 bound for the Thistlegorm! That famous of wrecks, known for it’s cargo of guns, motorbikes, trucks, railway stock and BIG fish. It’s a remarkable experience if you’ve not done it before! Hanging in the current with big Black Snappers, Trevally and Big-eye Jacks and dog tooth tuna (2 meters long!) is an experience to remember! Do be aware though: safari prices to go there are a tad expensive and it’s ‘diver soup’ usually; 15 boats are not uncommon as daily visitors!

 

Hey Guys, why don’t you go and see it for yourselves? Just have a look-see at Georgina’s web site. Talk to her about hiring her fabulous apartment; book yourselves a flight and go dive, Dive Tribe!

 

If you’d like to talk to me about El Gouna and chilling out Big Time, then gizza call at work (Witt’ Divers 01243 672031) or drop me a line, at mailto:tonethegnome@yahoo.com

 

All the best folks, hoping you’ve had a good season and diving is still your passion!

 

Tone