
The Company decides to have 59 year-old sir John Franklin lead its final expedition to join
the east-west links.
He's given two ships: Erebus & Terror. Sir John was knighted after his failed expedition of 1819-22
in which he lost 11 of his 20 men.
1847 March 25, John
Rae steams from
London to New York with Sir
John Richardson aboard Hibernia.
April 10, they
steam to Montreal, spends three days with George Simpson at
Lachine and
take the
steamer
to Sault St. Marie; then,
Sault St. Marie to Thunder Bay and on through
Cumberland House to Methy Portage p.88
Sir
John Richardson accompanied Sir John Franklin on his 1819-23 and 1833-35
expeditions. He was by this time a very experienced northern explorer.
1848 July 15, he
travels via Methy
Portage to Fort Chipewyan and
on to Fort Resolution p.91
Here, Rae has misgivings about the men he receives from England,
but he is reassured in the knowledge he has with him his most trusted guide: Albert One-Eye
(who, incidentally, had both eyes).
After crossing Great Slave Lake, Rae, Richardson and 18 men start down
Mackenzie River with three
York boats and a Halkett
(rubber inflatable). Rae stows provisions as he travels.
He makes meticulous scientific notes for which he becomes well known.
The group has a run-in with thieving Natives but they are run-off by gunfire.
Here, again, Rae supplies his party with venison he shoots.
1848 August 3, arrives Arctic coast after
travelling 40 miles per day.
This is Rae's fastest journey by covering 3616 miles in
90 days [40mpd]. The end of August heralds the end of short Arctic summer. Rae decides to head south;
he and his men only eat twice a day: breakfast and dinner.
They travel east to the Coppermine
River via Tucktoyuktuk
Peninsula, then to Cape Bathhurst, Cape Perry and
Cape Lyon, (the latter, Rae made one of only a few of his surviving
sketches pp.92-94
1848, September 1, Rae abandons the boats because everything is frozen;
they travel overland to Fort Confidence via the Coppermine and
Kendall Rivers. Rae River is named by Richardson p.95
Sir John Richardson leaves Fort Confidence but instructs Rae in company policy which now
encompasses two fronts : Continue the Franklin Expedition searches and search for the
North West Passage. There is,
however, one policy taking precedent over the
former two: Head south before the onset of winter!
1849, June 9th, Rae leaves Fort Confidence
and drags his boats 30 miles to Kendall River to return
to the Arctic coast. Rae finds the Coppermine River still frozen and waits one week.
By mid-July, he descends the Coppermine carefully navigating Bloody Falls (so named by Samuel
Hearnes in 1771 after the massacre by his
Chipawyan companions of 22 Inuit natives).
From the mouth of the
Coppermine, Rae travels 30 miles up the Rae River
then backtracks and carries on to Cape Kendall and Cape Krusenstern,
arriving July 30, 1849 p.105
August 19,
the party crosses the Dolphin & Union Strait
and heads north for Victoria Island
(then called Wollaston Land).
Here, they rowed for ten hours in ice & fog
until turned back by severe
weather -- they nearly all perished.
They return to Coppermine River
where the plan is to dragline heavy boats up river to save a strenuous portage; a line breaks and the
York boat
starts downstream. Albert One-Eye
misunderstands Rea's command and
jumps into the boat. It capsized in a whirlpool and Rae
loses his best friend and only person to perish under his
command. This loss of life
haunts Rae for the remainder of his days. The party eventually
arrives back at Fort Confidence.
Two days later, Rae leaves for Fort Simpson on the McKenzie
River by York boat,
arriving
September 12, 1849;
here, Rae spends a miserable winter at Fort Simpson. Again, he requests leave to return to England.
May 15, 1850,
journey is made by boat from Fort Simpson to Mackenzie Delta;
then, back to Fort Simpson by June
10. During this trip, Rae hears a horrific story about cannibalism among Europeans and naming
some company men as alleged perpetrators. The gruesome story in part relates how after entering a man's shelter, human remains - hands -
were seen in a cooking pot on the stove. Rae's personal notes make reference to a dereliction of duty on the part of a Company
manager, but more about this later.
While at Fort Simpson, Rae receives two letters: one from Sir George Simpson and the other,
from Lady Franklin; Simpson wants Rae to return to the North. Rae is mortified. Lady Franklin writes
salutary comments to soften Rae up to accept the challenge at hand
-- that of searching for her husband. Everyone from the Admiralty on down, know Rae is their best hope of finding any knowledge of
Franklin's Expedition. Rae's response is: "Why didn't Franklin just stay home?" Franklin had now been missing five years.
p.114
Rae goes
up-river to Fort Resolution on Great Slave Lake. While Rae awaits supplies from Red River, he formulates a brilliant
Franklin search plan and sends it to
Sir George Simpson. In the same mail pouch, Rae gives Sir George Simpson an ultimatum
regarding his leave to England.
Sir George's response is to promote Rae to Chief Factor. - p.120
Rea
travels north to Fort Confidence August 10, 1850,
and spends the winter
here on Great Bear Lake
where he receives a copy of first published book: Arctic Narrative. Over this winter,
the temperature dips to minus 72
degrees F., on January 21, 1851.
By March, it's a balmy, plus 30 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
April 25, 1851,
Rae leaves Fort Confidence via Cape Kendall to the
Arctic and
ictoria Island. pp.129-130
This is Rae's most ambitious undertaking in the Arctic: 2700 pounds of supplies on
three
dog-sledges. The party uses sledge dogs Inuit fan-style
and by now, Rae only
wears Inuit clothing.
Rae continues
his practice of sending small parties
ahead caching supplies at Provision Stations. Because of
snowblindness, Rae travels only at night.
They cross Coronation Gulf to Wollaston Peninsula (Victoria Island),
to Point Lockyer, then across Dolphin & Union Strait by way of Douglas Island;
here, they head back east, past Cape Lady Franklin and names Richardson Island
on the way. Rae names Simpson Bay & Cape Hamilton.
May 10, 1851, Rae goes further than Dease & Simpson reached in 1839 from the east;
on this date the
temperature is recorded at minus 20 degree F. p.133 They then head west man-dragging 35lb sledges.
Next, it's north to Prince Albert Sound.
By May 23rd,
a spring thaw threatens to trap the boatless men on the wrong side of Dolphin & Union Strait;
Rae sends bulk of his party back south. He continues north with one man -- Linklater -- naming Cape Back (after George Back who in
1821, saved Richardson & Franklin from certain starvation).
From this vantage point, Rae can see Cape Back across
Prince Albert Sound. He records the wonder of the aurora borealis and an enormous rainbow across the northern
sky. Rae, carries only a compass, sextant and musket for protection against wolves and bears.
Unknown to Rae is that Robert McClure -- ten days before (May 14,
1851) -- was just 40 miles
away across the strait while icebound in H.M.S. Investigator. p.135
May 24th, 1851, Rae & Linklater head south
to join the rest of their party before starting the trek back to Cape Kendall.
On the way, they meet a large group of Inuit, but no word of seeing any Europeans.
June 4th,
they reach Richardson Bay and their stash of provisions. Reflecting on this winter's journey, Rae wrote in his notes this was perhaps
-- at 942 statute
miles --
the longest single journey ever recorded in Arctic exploration. p.137
Rae has specimens of wildlife sent back to England. Rae writes Sir George Simpson about applying to the Royal Geographical Society for their
10,000 pound reward money and he again asks for leave
to return
home. Then it is back up the Coppermine River
to Fort Confidence p.138
