- Zinn
- Zinn's Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance. A really useful
guide to do everything. Recommendation:
Goto dvd-coupon website and use barnes and noble coupon
at bn.com.
- Barnett
- Barnett's Bicycle Manual. The $150 definitive bike shop
manual. Recommendation: The
Specialized and the Barnett site post different chapters
on the web. Collect them !
- Torque Wrench
- Wrench with indicator to show force applied to bolt. Two
common types the needle indicator and the dial indicator.
- Recommendation: get the needle
indicator because it can be recalibrated by simply
bending the needle to point to zero. Need a 3/8"
Craftsman wrench that reads in foot pounds, available at
Sears for about $20. This is used for tightening the
crankbolts. You will also need a 3/8" wrench that
reads in inch pounds, available at jcwhitney for about
$9. Used for tightening stem bolts.
- Hex Allen Wrenches
- L shaped hexagonal wrenches in metric sizes 2mm to 10 mm.
Also 3/8" socket drive allen wrenches, these are
used with the torque wrench.
- Spoke Wrench
- Special wrench that fits over the spoke nipple. Need to
match wrench with spoke nipples. Included
with spline drive nipples.
- Truing Stand
- Stand to hold wheel during wheel building. Measures
lateral, radial trueness and dishing.
- Recommendation: Performance Spin
Doctor or Minura Truing stand. Feeler gauges on left and
right side, reasonably priced. Minura stand includes T
alignment gauge. Alignment gauge isn't really necessary
though, you can use the front wheel once it is true.
- Cordless drill
- Handy to convert presta rims to schraeder. Recommend Makita 7.2 volt cordless drill.
Controllable speed, keyless chuck Lots of power, long
charge.
- Spoke nipple bit
- Take a Phillips #2 screwdriver bit, (one of those hex
bits) and file off two of the opposing ribs. You just
made yourself a $12 spoke nipple driver.
- Bike Repair Stand
- Stand to hold bike upright while you are working on it. I
got the Park CS1.
- Chain whip
- Bar with chain attached to grip on rear cogs to remove
rear cassette. I got the Park SR1.
- Lockring tool
- Tool to turn lockring on rear cassette. I got the Park
FR5.
- Crankarm puller
- Tool to pull crank arm off bottom bracket. I got the Park
CWP5. It allows you use a separate wrench for more
leverage and realign for a better working angle when the
wrench is close to the crankarm.
- Bottom bracket tool
- Tool to turn bottom bracket mounting rings. I got the
Phil Wood bb tool. The Shimano tool doesn't work with the
Phil Wood bottom bracket.
- Alien multitool
- Allen keys, wrench set and tire levers combined into one
compact gizmo.
- Tire levers
- Pry bars to coax tire onto wheel rim. I got the Park blue
plastic levers.
- Tube cutter
- Rotary cutter mounted in a clamp. Look in the plumbing
section of Home Depot. Get one that can cut at least 1
1/4" diameter pipe.
- Cable cutter
- Although a little more expensive, the Shimano cable
cutter for SIS derailleur cables and brake cables is the
best. Mtbr.com reports alot of people not happy with the
Park cutter.
- Chain Tool
- Tool to remove chain links. I bought the Park CT 5.
- Rubber mallet
- Reduces risk of damage to finish by errant blow. Didn't
think of buying one but they were on sale for $1.89.
- Chain ring nut wrench
- Tool to hold chain ring nut from turning while wrenching
the chain ring allen bolt. Some people use a large
screwdriver but I find it incredibly awkward to torque
the bolts while gripping onto a large screwdriver. I
bought the Park CNW1.
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- Tip:Check if your tool is too wide to
seat properly on the chainring nut. If so, file the side
of the tool until it seats well within the nut groove.
Wrap some tape around the handle to prevent scratching
the crank finish.
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