Riding Technique
How you ride is probably more important than what you ride. In order to ride effectively, your bike should fit properly. Refer to Zinn for fitting guidelines. Also, Keith Bontrager has a good online article on bike fitting.
Riding skills can only be improved by practice and visualization is key for rapid improvement. At the end of every ride, set yourself one realistic goal for the next ride. Visualize how to do it at home and go through all the motions. Then get back on the trail and practice, practice, practice.
Lessons can help prevent bad techniques from becoming bad habits. A number of resorts and tour companies offer mountain biking courses during the summer months. Maybe join a bike club, a good instructor or mentor can be invaluable to a beginner.
Topics
I think safety is alot more than just wearing your helmet.
First, let's deal with protection. The helmet should be well adjusted, not to impede vision and fit snugly so as to maintain its position during a fall. The hands should be gloved with padded palms. The shoes should laced such that the shoelaces are not exposed to the chainring. The pant legs should be close fitting or fastened such that they will not be sucked into the chainring. Suitable close fitting eyewear is needed to protect the eyes from bush and harmful UV rays. Exposed skin should be treated with waterproof sunblock. The lips should be treated with lip balm. Remember your nose, behind the ears and the back of the neck!. If you are just learning or learning to ride clipless, elbow and knee pads are a good idea. If you are downhilling, various pieces of body armor may be in order.
Second, let's deal with the physiological requirements. Hydration is really important, you can lose alot of moisture during a ride and not realize it. Carry water and remember to DRINK it regularly. Avoid dehydrating beverages, beer and caffienated beverages like iced tea, cola and coffee can actually make you more dehydrated. If you are suffering for heat exhaustion, AVOID COLD beverages, they can cause you to go into SHOCK and be FATAL. Hydation backpacks have the nice side effect of cushioning a landing if you fall on your back. If you lose a lot of moisture, you may need some salt to prevent muscle cramps.
Take a course in basic first aid. Bring a selection of bandages, sterile wipes, gauzing, antiseptic cream (I like Savon cream, its ouchless), tape and scissors. Having a first aid kit in the car doesn't help much when you are 10 miles from the trailhead. Know your allergies, if you are allergic to bee stings or are prone to asthma bring medication. Let your fellow riders know where the medication is and how to use it. Learn to recognize dangerous plants, like poison oak, devil's club etc. and edible plants/roots. Learn about the wildlife, learn to differentiate between bear spoor and deer droppings. Be NOISY.
Plan your ride, don't ride alone, let people know where you are going and when you will be back. If you change your plans, leave a note in your car. Wear a watch, bring a compass and map. Remember to stop and look behind you once in awhile, the trail looks completely different in other direction. If a trail is completely new to you, mark the forks with surveyor's tape. If there is a remote chance that you will be riding late, bring a spare light, matches, space blanket. Leave some extra food and water in the car. A cellphone is handy but coverage can be spotty to nonexistent on the trails. Motorola talkabouts are great for group rides.
Ride defensively, approach blind corners with caution. Don't follow too closely behind a rider. If he falls, you will likely crash as well, if he veers abruptly to clear an obstacle, you will likely biff. Learn your limits, don't be afraid to slow down or walk when you are tired. Resist the temptation for that one last ride at the end of the day, you are mostly to biff when you are tired and in a hurry.
Ride safe.
Posted by not quite an expert, buuu on August 19, 1998 at 08:59:02:
In Reply to: Need to improve technical skills posted by No Balance on August 18, 1998 at 20:53:12:
Starting from scratch. The first "skill" to learn is "ratcheting." Simple enough. get on your bike, set pedals at the 3 O'clock and 9 O'clock position. make about a half a pedal stroke, bring the pedal back and repeat the process. Ok, 20 seconds later, you have the hang of it. Do it with the other leg. Just like the name implies, you use the pedals as a ratchet to move the bike forwad.
Next is the trackstand. BALANCE is built here. Pedals level
(or at 3 and 9 again). Try to balance the bike while stationary.
The key here is ratcheting. Instead of making full circular pedal
strokes, you want to make shorter ratcheting strokes. Dont worry
if you can stay still. If you can go slowly, that will build
balance. Think if using your rear brake like a clutch. Keep
pressure on the "clutch" and keep pressure on the
pedal. If you need to move forward, fine, ever so slightly let
out on the rear brake, "ratchet" the bike forward,
regain control and balance and then level the pedals again by
ratcheting backwards.
Continue the brake and ratcheting process until you can stand
still or close to it. Some people find that by turning the
handlbar to the left or right, you can find a "balance
point" an the bike will feel very stable.
When you get this down (trackstand and riding extremely slow) draw about a 6 foot circle and just ride inside of the circle without touching the lines. Learn to do it both clockwise and counter-clockwise. when you get good at that, try two circles and make figure 8's.
Also, try a water bottle pickup. Ride slow, set a water bottle down while bent over, then come back and pick it up. All while never stopping or putting your foot down. When you get good, you will be able to pick up coins!!!
Doing wheelies, although very impressive, offer little in the way of practical bike handling skills. COOOL to learn though.
Turns: You need to learn the proper "APEX." That is entering from the outside of the turn, pointing to the insinde of the turn, then back out to the outside. Properly done, you will use the whole "track" and the turn becomes almost a straight line. If there are turns in close succession, you will need to adjust for early or late apexes. Thats a different lesson.
SLOWRIDING might be boring, and just doesnt getthe blood flowing like some hugh air or carving a turn at 60 mph but you learn all your skills without the fear of braking collar bones!
Sorry if I sounded patronizing
Posted by bania on August 19, 1998 at 15:45:18:
In Reply to: Re: Need to improve technical skills posted by not quite an expert, buuu on August 19, 1998 at 08:59:02:
that's a very good description of a trackstand..... a couple
other points are:
it's much easier to do standing, keeps your hips high, forward, a
little bit past the center of the bike, also you don't need the
brake, by using the pedal pressure to move forward and then
letting off(ratcheting) the pedal to roll back, even on flat
ground.
A good way to learn trackstands is to find an gentle uphill slope, ride along the slope and come to a stop, then turn your bar into the slope and go from there. Once you master that, practice going up the hill (fairly easy) and then pointing downhill (hard)...then when you have that mastered, practice it with either foot forward and the bars turned either way...
There's a lot of different ways you can practise balance, throw a 2x4 on the ground and ride it, riding along a curb,etc.
You will be amazed at how much your riding will improve if you practice slow speed skills....
good luck
kenny b.
Pedaling or "spinning" moves you forward. That is pretty obvious but what is not so obvious is that there is a wrong way to pedal. And most beginners pedal incorrectly. Keith Bontrager discusses why you should learn to pedal correctly. The benefits of pedalling correctly are less energy wastage, better climbing ability and less wear on the body joints.
Ok, you are sold. Well how to spin? Spinning is moving the feet in a circle with the applied force tangential to the circle. Imagine you were using a wrench to tighten the crank bolt. You would only press down when the wrench is at the 3 oclock position. At any other position, you would be pushing at a tangent to the circle. For example, at the 6 oclock position, you will be pushing left.
Most beginners ride by pushing down, pumping each leg like they were using a stairmaster. However, with that method it is only maximally efficient for one leg when the pedal is at 3 oclock. At all the other crank positions, energy is wasted. To pedal efficiently, both legs must share in the workload not only on the down stroke but on the up stroke as well. In addition, power should be directed in the direction 90 degrees to the crankarm. To accomplish this, the shoe is attached to the pedal so power can be delivered by both legs all the time. The foot rotates during the spin cycle to direct power smoothly to the crankarm. Keep the legs moving evenly through the entire cycle in a smooth circle. Practise with a higher rpm's with a lower gear ratio, try to maintain 90 rpms.
Wearing the finish of the crankarms and heel rub are symptoms of poor foot alignment. When the foot is not parallel to the chainrings, force is applied off center. This has the effect of working against the crankarms and wasting valuable energy. Notice how only force applied along the axis of the chainrings will rotate the crankarms. So when you are riding condition your muscle memory to direct force in the direction parallel to the chainrings. Make smooth circles with your pedaling, so you will do this subconciously.
Posted by Humma Hah on June 28, 2000 at 20:32:11:
In Reply to: What would Joe Friel say --- Bonking posted by LDF on June 28, 2000 at 02:28:31:
I just can't picture continuing to ride at 25 mph after bonking. I can picture falling down, running into things, crawling off the bike and sitting on the road side confused and dazed and wondering why you did something so dumb as riding with no fuel ...
An honest bonk is not just getting tired and hungry, it's a severe blood-sugar drop that leads to confusion and disorientation, and a total lack of energy. Those who've done it frequently describe a very sudden onset, like "being hit by a ton of bricks".
I've bonked. Nearly passed out -- tunnel vision, rubber legs. I avoid it now like the plague.
Posted by sj on June 28, 2000 at 05:44:47:
In Reply to: What would Joe Friel say --- Bonking posted by LDF on June 28, 2000 at 02:28:31:
An occasional bonk I feel is good. Every day, hmmm. Your body
is a survivor, and it will get what it needs not just from fat
but also protien (muscles). Fat first. Some pros are known to eat
just protien prior to a long endurance ride for the purpose of
training their fat engines. I would opt for that if it was going
to be a couple of times p/wk , this gives your body something to
work w/. Doing this all the time could not be good for
performance, your body needs carbs, protien, and fat in that
order for optimal cranking.
Using Time ATAC clipless pedals
Ah, the ingenuity of mankind. I'm convinced that someone has perfected genetic engineering and the clipless pedal must be derived somehow from the root snake. I'm sure most of you have encountered the root snake at one time or another. You are riding along some trail with nothing out of the ordinary and when you least expect it a root snake grabs hold of your tire. Suddenly, you biff. Of course, the root snake has long since slithered off as you are getting up.
Most riders will tell you that you will fall about 10 times before you are accustomed to using them. What they don't tell you is that this an undeniable physical constant of this planet, sort of like the speed of light or the gravitational constant. And you are strapping a pair of root snakes to your feet. This has some dire consequences for a rider, first this is like some black hole of biffing where you will gravitate to any biffing situation within a 20 foot radius. And you have a special affinity to Murphy's law of silly biffing where you will ride up to a group of friends and proceed of biff in front of them. You will biff at intersections, climbing obstacles, in mud. Just thinking about a place being pretty darn silly to biff in will instantly increase the odds of you biffing there. Such is the awesome power of clipless pedals. After about 10 biffs, the root snakes will start to get bored and wander off in search of another hapless newbie.
My technique is to get those 10 biffs over with as soon as possible. Here is what to do. Sit on the bike and clip in with one foot. It is deceptively easy to clip in, just sliding the foot forward on the cleat will do it. Then clip out. Note how difficult it is? Yanking off, forward, backwards, sliding sideways, shaking the foot, nearly any of the natural reactions will not unclip you. The best motion is to rotate the heel outward and simultaneously roll the foot forward. Now repeat the motion 100 times, you need to build your muscle memory so this will become a reflex reaction. Now look at the pedal, see all those metal flakes? You have worn in the cleat so that it is easier to release. Repeat with the other foot. Once you are comfortable with the release motion, it is time for the next phase.
Build a crash area. I piled a bunch of pillows, towels and blankets onto a futon. That works great because you don't have to fall as far during a crash. I found it is a general rule that you will biff on the side you are trying to clip. So clip in one foot and ride towards the crash area, keeping the crash area on the same side as the clipped foot. When you get to the crash area, slow down to a stop and try to unclip. You will likely crash but it will be painless, kind of fun actually as you tumble into the futon attached to the bike. It like learning to snowboard on a powder day. Continue for a couple of hours, alternating feet, until the root snakes get bored.
One thing nobody mentions is that it is easy to pedal without clipping in. Just ride with the pedals closer to the arch of the foot. You can test during a ride if you are clipped by lifting the foot off the pedal. The plan is to ride unclipped until you find a easy section and then clip in. Clip out any time you are approaching a questionable section. Continue to clip in more as you become comfortable. Oh yeah, remember this: On your first clipless ride, never ride up to a group of friends in the parking lot clipped in. Those root snakes live for that moment....
Remember to periodically check the cleats for tightness.
Posted by Charles Coker on June 07, 2000 at 07:18:14:
In Reply to: right-of-way etiquette? posted by none on June 01, 2000 at 16:10:39:
I usually yeild right of way to others
I will even yield to someone coming down a section if I am
climbing if I look at the person and they look like they are
doing all they can to hang on....
i.e., if the guy coming down is bombing and he looks like he
knows what he is doing I will just try to get over to the side a
bit, if he looks like he's a novice that might run into me, I
just get the heck out of his way...
also, common sense and courtesy should prevail
if everyone out there, I repeat everyone just was courteous and
did the right thing we would have a lot less problems....
Charles Coker
hammerheadbikes.com
Posted by BigRing on June 02, 2000 at 06:14:53:
In Reply to: right-of-way etiquette? posted by none on June 01, 2000 at 16:10:39:
Yes the uphill has the right of way, but who is going to
enforce that for you in the woods?
I try to alway take the attitude of courtesy and over
friendliness. There is really no piece of dirt worth getting bent
out of shape over. Soem riders are jerks and some just know know
the rules. I always yield up or down. If they yield first I let
them and keep riding. If I am in a show-nuff stand and grunt
uphill I will keep going and move over but 99% of the time I pull
over and let folks by and speak just out of good nature if
nothing else.
If everyone did that we would not have any problems. Stopping for
5 seconds is not going to take anything off the end of my life.
Posted by woodmouse on January 19, 1999 at 07:15:51:
In Reply to: Paging Bania, ALs, Hoser and other trialsinners posted by LeeL on January 16, 1999 at 14:03:31:
I went out and hopped the bike around in the garage to find the answer (lots of ice/snow/rain here) Anyway, I'm most comfortable in the middle 'ring and the 2nd or 3rd ring from the inside of the 11-30 cassette. With adequate leg strength, this gearing allows me to bring the front of the bike way high with one pedal stroke, and allows me to pedal into obstacles at decent speed (more momentum, the better, for me anyway...)
As far as brake modulation, my XTs are set up pretty loose, and I can squeeze the levers to within 1/2 inch of the bar. This seems to help my grip while maneuvering, especially rear-wheel-only moves such as hopping off a picnic table onto the seat or ground. For roll-stop-roll trials moves (hop onto 3' rock, hop 90 degrees, wheelie drop off), I seem to be able to modulate better with the increased lever travel, so I'd guess that would work the same with your Maguras. The stock XT pads are working great for me, as long as it's not wet.
wm (physically aching to ride)
Posted by bania on January 16, 1999 at 21:03:33:
In Reply to: Paging Bania, ALs, Hoser and other trialsinners posted by LeeL on January 16, 1999 at 14:03:31:
Hey Lee!
I'm using my granny(24) and my third cog(11-30),sometimes my middle ring and my largest cog, basically you want a gear combo that moves you the distance of your wheelbase with one complete pedal stroke..
Can't help too much with the Magura's, only had one ride with them so far, it had taken me about an hour before i was getting comfortable with them and then they started to feel real gooood, but the black pads they came with sure suck for trials, gotta get me some reds, or better yet some citrics.
The timing for the pedal kicks takes a little getting use to, practice on flat ground first...as you pedal kick, throw your weight back ( read arse) over the rear wheel, at the same time braking and ratcheting back..once you can do this little exercise it becomes almost second nature( the ratcheting part).
Have fun!!
ken
Posted by Jury Rig on January 17, 1999 at 10:50:39:
In Reply to: Paging Bania, ALs, Hoser and other trialsinners posted by LeeL on January 16, 1999 at 14:03:31:
As for gearing, I try to use the middle ring and the smallest cog in the rear, or the granny and the third out (i'm on a 12-32 cassette though). I find most people try to use too big a gear, but try a smaller one and concentrate more on weight shifts. From the sounds of it, you're not on your rear wheel yet, so think about weight shifts more. Later on, you'll need to choose a gear more carefully for distance, but at this point the gearing is of little importance (Cause it's actually possible to get on the rear wheel with nearly any gear).
As for lever throw, I like a lot of pull before brakes are engaged. If you're not locking up fast enough, try tarring your rims (don't worry, it washes away quickly for xc rides). Whether you choose more throw or less, it's vitally important to know exactly when they engage, so choose something you like and stick with it for a while.
Jeff
Posted by rich on November 07, 1998 at 12:04:31:
In Reply to: Climbing? Low gear or Higher gear? posted by JC on November 06, 1998 at 22:54:53:
I like to mix up my techniques on long climbs because: 1) it uses diferent muscles, allowing some to rest while working others; 2) can give me greater speed and agressiveness, important in a race; 3) keeps me from being bored to tears on long climbs.
Let's say I'm in a race, coming off some flats or fast
singletrack, and my HR is already at my anaerobic threshold, when
I have to start climbing a long hill. If possible (not too steep
or loose or technical, I'll go in the middle ring as long as I
can, seated or standing. Then when my legs feel like lead or my
cadence is too low (less than 40-45) I'll drop to the granny for
some of the middle section, or very technical, steep, or loose
sections. Then, after getting my legs back, when I see the top of
the hill, or am in a flatter section, or have excellent traction,
regardless of how steep it is, I shift to the middle ring and
STAND AND HAMMER in a hard gear. This sometimes takes other
racers by surprise, because most mountain bikers do little work
on hills standing. If the traction is good, you'll learn where to
position your body to keep steering good and traction on the rear
wheel. Just hover over the seat and move back or forward slightly
to find the right spot. Practice this until you find the gears
that work for you, and you'll be surprised how much this helps.
Posted by Roger on February 02, 2000 at 11:15:28:
In Reply to: Best Gears for Hill Climbing ?? posted by Max on February 02, 2000 at 00:08:29:
what you mean by the best way to climb. Do you want to climb
at moderate unpainful pace, then find a comfortable gear to spin
and not push. On the other hand if your talking about climbing
fast, you should find a gear just above your comfort level and
spin efficiently as possible seated, and each time you feel the
need to stand, shift to the next harder gear and climb standing,
but when you go to sit again shift back to the easier gear and
once again spin.
Approach stairs at a 90 degree angle. Shift your weight back, hang your butt of the back of the saddle. Stretch out and keep your chest low over the saddle. Keep you eyes at the bottom of the stairs. Your vision get all jittery : ). Do not brake, do not steer with the handlebars, just let the bike run out at the bottom.
Posted by beej on September 02, 1999 at 23:48:03:
In Reply to: Surviving the learning curve posted by tele mark on September 02, 1999 at 14:00:07:
The first is a bit obvious, but still very relevant: practise! We all empathise with you on the "losing confidence coz of crashes" thing, but the more you tackle difficult downhills the easier they become.
The second is Be Relaxed: this is the simplest tip I can give on such short notice when going downhill (there are others, but they need to be practised - and you don't have the time!). Basically, stand on level pedals and grip the saddle with the insides of your thighs. ALL your weight must be supported by your legs - and stability comes through the thighs. THE ONLY THING you use your arms for is to steer (read 'guide') the front wheel. When I'm flying down a fast, washed out fire road for example, I don't even bring my fingers round the handle - my grip is so light that they just dangle, with my middle finger resting lightly on the brake lever... just in case. There must be NONE of your weight supported by your arms. Picture in your head that you're holding a small bird in each hand and you don't want to crush it - your grip must be that light!
Good luck in your next race!
beej over and out
Posted by beej on September 05, 1999 at 23:38:10:
In Reply to: Re: 2 things... posted by tele mark on September 03, 1999 at 09:27:13:
What I was talking about here was general riding on fast, relatively technical downhill stuff. It's level pedals till I hit a real corner, then I drop my outside foot and enter cornering mode. As soon as I'm out it's back to level pedals and light touch on the handlebars again. So nothing has changed.
Also, you ask about whether my technique means I'm unweighting the front wheel too much. Well, let me go through it again and I'm sure you'll see what I'm talking about:
1. Proper balance means constant and equal weight distribution between wheels, no matter what the gradient, right? Well, if you're standing on your pedals (zero weight on the bars) you're weight distribution should be spot on - i.e. right in between the wheels. Now as the gradient decreases and you still keep your weight on your level pedals then what should happen is that your body naturally moves back towards the rear to keep balance. This then moves the center of gravity to wards the rear of the bike, as it should.
2. Now, it's not only about too little weight on the front tire, it also includes too MUCH weight. If you're balanced then you are perfectly positioned over the bike, irrespective of the gradient ---- and you can only know this balance point if you have all your weight over the centre of the bike, i.e. standing on the pedals. As soon as you start weighting the front wheel through your hands, you push this equilibrium out of whack and your front wheel (under load) is not allowed to do its natural tracking.
beej over and out
From: Chris Barrett
Newsgroups: rec.bicycles.off-road
Subject: Re: MTB Descending
I am considered to be, by all those that have ridden with me, a very good bike handler. When I was racing I won more than a few local downhill events. The one year my brother Patrick and I entered the Mammoth World Championships we both placed top 10 in the Kamikaze. I placed 2nd G.C. and my brother Patrick placed 5th G.C. in what was then called the sport class combining all three events: Trials, Downhill and x-country. I raced between the years 1982 and 1987 and was on the first TEAM ROMP off road team sponsored then by Velomeister of Los Gatos. IMHO, the following is what it takes to reach blazing speeds on the descents. I call them my ten commandments of going fast on the descents.
1) Most important is that you have your bike dialed. The fit, from frame to stem to pedals to bars to brake levers, is critical in your ability to go fast. If you're not comfortable on your bike you won't be able to go fast. Get the fit dialed then make sure your brakes and shifting are spot on. If you don't have confidence in your equipment, you can't go fast. Experiment with settings like tire pressure and if you have suspension get it dialed as well. Once your bike is dialed and race tuned, keep it that way even if you don't race. A clean, well lubricated and adjusted bike is a happy and fast bike.
2) Practice, practice, practice. . . . Seriously. You must be able to know how your bike will respond in EVERY situation. If you are even a bit unsure, you will not be able to go fast.
3) Train. Get fit. You can't go fast downhill unless you can go fast. Gravity is your friend but it doesn't do all the work. A big chainring will only give you more top end if you can push it.
4) Learn to read the trail and pick the fastest line. In general, look as far down the trail as possible. The faster you go the further ahead you need to be looking. In general, you and your bike will tend to go where you are looking. If you are looking right at that big rut down the middle of the trail, it will most likely make a meal out of your front wheel. Identify possible hazards in your path as soon as possible, then don't focus on them. Instead, focus on the best path around, over or through them and focus on that line as you continue to scan the trail ahead. In a real scary section, look where you want to go, not at big rocks and ruts. NEVER look down at, or just in front of your front wheel at speed unless it's for just a split second. Keep your head up and eyes down the trail. It's okay to let your eyes flit up and down the trail, but concentrate on looking ahead as much as possible.
5) Learn to hop your bike. I hate the term bunnyhop, but I love to practice the technique. It is a must do to being able to go fast. Most of the time you don't need much height. This is especially true at speed. Learn to time your hops so that you spend the least amount of time with your wheels off the ground. Learn to do it several times in rapid succession. Learn to do it and be able to change direction slightly. This comes in real handy in really rough rocky or rutted sections.
6) Let the bike work for you. Try to think of your tires as edges on a pair of skis. Keep your weight centered over your bike and let your bike dance around beneath you. Keep your grip firm on the bars, but your arms and legs lose. Keep your but just off the saddle. Don't put much weight on the saddle and remember keep the weight on the outside pedal. I like to have the outside pedal slightly towards the rear of the bike and put as much weight on it as possible. The inside foot is either resting lightly in the clips with the knee pointed away from the bike or I pull my inside foot out and stick it up near the front wheel and out slightly. It depends on the speed and terrain. If you don't have suspension don't worry about the wheels wanting to bounce around. Let them. Just keep your weight centered, look where you want to go and keep the bars pointed in that general direction.
7) Learn when to go slow. This is one of the most often overlooked parts of going really fast. Knowing when to slow down, and more importantly, how much to slow is critical to blazing fast times. The brakes are your friend. Use them wisely. Remember, about 70+% of your braking ability comes from your front wheel. When you really need to scrub speed quickly, grab a healthy handful of front brake. Do NOT lock up the front wheel and NEVER try to scrub speed once you have committed to a line through a corner. That would be a really bad move. If you come in to a corner too hot and you need to scrub speed, use both brakes and use them sparingly. It's best to enter the corner at the fastest speed that you can safely carry through the corner. Practice braking later and later for the turn. Many times the person that brakes later, and correctly, will be the first one out of the turn and on the pedals sooner.
8) Wear your helmet, glasses, gloves, cycling shoes and shorts. There is nothing worse than having a bug or small bit of debris fly into your eye at speed, or to have a bush or tree branch reach out and whack you upside your unprotected head. If you fall without gloves and helmet I guarantee it will be painful and ugly.
9) No fear. . . This is what really separates the posers from the people that go fast. If you have confidence in your equipment and your abilities, then you are well on your way to increased speed. Confidence = trust = no fear.
10) Have fun! I have found that a big ear-to-ear grin and rebel yell will definitely make me go faster. Try it. Don't be so serious. There is nothing like being in really good physical shape and being really in tune with your bike and the trail.
Good luck! Regards, Chris Barrett
Posted by DT on June 16, 2000 at 14:12:32:
In Reply to: Climbing? posted by Drew on June 15, 2000 at 11:41:37:
crouching is a good start. Here's the technique I've been taught (not exhaustive even if long).
-long before hitting the hill, shift to a larger rear cog, spin fast to the hill. (don't shift to a cog too large, or you increase chance of the rear tire slipping--this is actually the hardest part: gauging which cog to use to attack the hill, especially an unknown hill.)
-as it gets harder, put your hands up on the bar ends and bring your chest down.
-at the same time, scoot your butt up onto the nose of your seat. The steeper the climb, the further up. I often have the nose nearly going up my butt on super steep climbs.
-if, on long & steep climbs, you feel your hand tug on one side of the bar as the opposite foot (I think opposite--a matter of feel for me) is going up, and then tugging the other side of the bar as the other foot goes up--like alternating row/tugs--then you are doing something right.
-stay seated like this as long as you can. If you do stand, scoot your whole upper body further up the bar and lower yourself as far as balance will let you. Only stand as long as necessary, and sit again slowly or the weight shift will kick you backward and stall you or worse topple you.
-focus on picking a line, not the top of the hill. Just the line and only five feet or less ahead of you.
-keep a steady, not a "fast" pace. Steady wins uphill. Beginners attack hills and races hard at first and give in before reaching the end.
-roots and rocks can stop you dead. if you can't pick a line around them, you'll have to go over them. lift slightly on the bar and hammer down on the pedal as the bar comes down. hammer once again just inches before the rear tire meets the root/rock.
-on tough climbs, stop at the top and look down over your
kingdom and glory. bask in it.
Posted by bania on August 25, 1998 at 07:03:58:
In Reply to: RIDING OVER LOGS posted by HK on August 24, 1998 at 21:39:01:
It depends on the size of the log........different techniques can be used for different sized logs.... for smaller logs 6"-8" in diameter, you can use a manual wheelie and some momentum to get over it, as long as the approach allows you to get that momentum. In case you don't know, a manual wheelie is a wheelie with no pedal stroke needed to lift the front wheel, it's all weight shift. by throwing(not violently) your body weight back,at the same time pushing your bars forward and up, this will lift the front end, and allow your front wheel to clear whatever object you want it to clear (great technique for riding puddles, you don't get the water off the front wheel in your face).
For medium sized logs 8"-12", you can use the same technique, if you have the momentum.. it's easier to use a pedal stroke to lift the front wheel though. When you approach the log, about a wheel length away, using your opposite foot(the foot that is normally at the back when riding ) pedal to lift the front wheel, and at the same time shift your weight back slightly. This should get your front wheel up onto the log , now you should have your good foot (power stroke) forward, allowing you to pedal over the log, as you shift your weight forward (unweighting (sp?) the rear wheel).
For large logs, you can use the same technique as for medium sized logs, remembering that your chainring will most likely hit the log, throwing you off balance. There are some really good slow speed trials type skills for large logs, using your pedal to dab on the log as you go over, sidehopping onto and then off of the log, pedal kicking onto the log,etc
have fun....hope that wasn't too confusing!!
kenny b.
Posted by kendog on December 22, 1999 at 12:44:20:
In Reply to: How to get over logs going uphill? posted by Santa Cruz'n on December 12, 1999 at 16:38:18:
The critical element in crossing a log while going uphill is
momentum. Plan ahead. As you approach the log start accelerating.
When you are about two pedal strokes from the obstacle STAND UP
and keep pedalling. Manual the front wheel up onto the log. Now
depending on the size of the log you will do one of two things:
FOR LOGS SMALL ENOUGH FOR YOUR CHAINRING TO CLEAR:
Let the front wheel roll off the log. As soon as it hits the
ground stop pedalling. Your pedals should be level (at the 3:00
and 9:00 o'clock positions) and the back tire should be just
about 1" from the log. Shift your weight forward slightly
and unweight the rear wheel. As the wheel starts to roll onto the
log "help" it by pushing the bike forward with your
arms. As the wheel comes across the top of the log start
pedalling again.
FOR LOGS TOO LARGE FOR THE CHAINRING TO CLEAR:
This is harder. After you manual the front onto the log you must
immediately throw your weight up and forward. Use your feet and
hands to pull the bike vertically into the air and then shove it
forward underneath you. What you are doing is jumping up and
shifting the back tire to the position your front tire was in.
Your body moves very little. You are moving the bike underneath
you. This is similar to a J-hop which was featured in the
November cycling. It is an excellent technique for any obstacle
over 12" high.
Remember, in both cases your momentum is doing a lot of work
by carrying you and the bike forward as you execute the hop.
Without sufficient momentum it won't work. It is truely amazing
some of the stuff you can get over with momentum. I routinely hop
onto a a footbridge which has an 18" lip. The approach is up
a steep hill with lots of rocks right in front of the bridge. I
can tell wheather or not I'm going to make it by how fast I
approach. Speed is good.
Posted by kendog on February 04, 1999 at 16:21:27:
In Reply to: Logjumping posted by GUNSPORT on February 04, 1999 at 14:02:02:
Approach the log at walking speed or a little better. Now you
need to work on the coordination of the following things or it
doesn't work. I assume you know how to lift the rear wheel off
the ground 8-12" if not you need to master that first. It is
really very easy just practice shifting your weight up and
forward real fast and pull up with your feet (clipless pedals
make this easier).
Ok, so here it is, and remember you need to string all these
things together fluidly for it to work:
1 Pull your front wheel up and place it directly on top of the
log (work on this so you can get it right where you want it).
2 Before the front wheel rolls off the log pull the back wheel up
into the air by throwing your weight up and forward while pulling
with your feet.
3 While the bike is still in the air push the bike forward. This
will roll the front wheel off the log and put the back right
where the front was sitting.
That's it. You need to do all this stuff real fast, but once you
figure it out it is VERY EASY to do repeatedly. What your
basically doing is hopping up in the air and pushing the bike
forward a couple of feet before it lands. Piece of cake! Let me
know how this works out.
Posted by Nigt Hitter on November 14, 1999 at 16:12:10:
In Reply to: How do you ride in Sand? posted by rphsooner on November 13, 1999 at 15:02:42:
1) Low gearing and smooth spin as previously mentioned
2) Weight back on the saddle to have slightly less weight on
front tire
3) don't steer with your front wheel (keep it pointed straight
ahead -- use your balance and hip movement instead to keep the
front wheel from digging in and stopping you
Night Hitter Over and Out
Posted by Bob on July 03, 2000 at 14:37:21:
In Reply to: how to approach a sandy corner posted by Paul on July 03, 2000 at 07:07:07:
Try to use your brakes to slow your speed before the corner
then let off both brakes as you enter the corner to keep the
wheels rolling throught the sand. Most people washout on a sandy
corner due to excessive use of the front brake. Try to stay off
your brakes completely as you go through the corner.
Posted by Airbear on August 10, 2000 at 14:59:05:
In Reply to: Re: Sand!! posted by Mike W on August 10, 2000 at 14:27:12:
In addition to unweighting the front, don't make any sudden corrections. Also get a *bunch* of extra speed before entering the section. This way you can just sit back and zip across the surface without sinking in so much.
The front end is going to want to wander on sand. Kind of let it go where it wants rather than trying to keep correcting it into a straight line (see above).
If you are a good rider and can handle riding on someone
else's tire rut at speed, aim for one and follow it. It will be
more packed down, and the tires will follow it.
Posted by NWOriginal on October 25, 1999 at 12:42:54:
In Reply to: How to ride WET stuff posted by Wet blanket on October 25, 1999 at 09:18:43:
My tips for riding wet stuff.
1. Don't think you can go the same speed over a slick wet surface as you can over a dry one.
2. When it is wet you need to pick a line not just roll down the middle of the trail. At first this will be a conscious thing but it will become automatic soon. The bonus is that when things dry out again you will now be able to run super light and fast semi knobs and keep traction.
3. Learn to read the trail. To accomplish #2 above you need to be able to quickly evaluate the available traction. For example, if you cross a wet root sideways your tires will want to slide in the direction the root angles. You want to either hit it head on, pull the weight off of the front wheel as you go over it and be ready for the rear to kick out a little, or go around it. Also when the entire trail is crisscrossed with roots it is possible to aim for the natural "V" shapes so that your tires will have nowhere to slide. A general rule is to keep your bike as perpendicular to the trail surface as you can at all times.
4. Learn to get the most from your brakes. If you ride steep muddy stuff you can't get away with just dragging your rear wheel all over the place. This just digs ruts and will not slow you down enough. Get used to using a lot of front brake and learn to modulate them so you don't lock up the front and dump the bike (Maguras help). For me, I go through about 2 sets of front brake pads for ever rear set in winter. It takes some practice to brake hard on slick surfaces but if you want to ride steep trails in winter it helps a lot. I ride a lot of motorcycle trails in winter and they are crazy steep and rutted so I get plenty of practice.
5. Choose your tires carefully and keep in mind that weight and rolling resistance are not real important when you have 5 pounds of mud stuck to each wheel. For all out mud performance lots of people like an open aggressive tread design like the velociraptor. What I don't like about these types of tires is that the open sections of tread allows the tire to slip on roots and rocks. For me, most of my unexpected nasty crashes are caused by roots and rocks so traction on them is what I look for. I have been extremely happy with Geax blades on slick hard surfaces. They are great for things like running over an angled barkless log. Instead of sliding sideways they almost always track straight. Some of my friends use the Tioga downhill tires in winter and love them. Also running as little air pressure as possible will help.
5. Have fun and be aggressive. I love riding nasty, wet, muddy, snow covered trails in the winter. I actually get kind of bored with the trails in the summer and long for something more challenging. If it's cold where you ride take advantage of the extra crash protection the additional clothing provides. You can wipe out a lot more often without getting hurt when you have no exposed skin. I like to wear motorcycle pants when it is not to hot.
Also make sure you ride on trails that are open all year.
Avoid your local pristine hiking trails when the ground is soft.
I ride on private timberland all winter myself.
Posted by kd on November 08, 1999 at 17:18:49:
In Reply to: mud techniques? posted by Lee Chun on November 08, 1999 at 13:53:30:
Mud, the love of all mtn. bikers. You're going to want to take
those tires and bleed a tiny bit of air out of them before you go
out there. Don't make em mushy but give em a little give. It
helps traction in mud with more surface area. THe key to riding
mud is to keep the tires rolling smoothly. On climbs, try to stay
in the saddle, or keep your weight down on the bike to maintain
traction. You'll just spin out if you power grind the ride. Speed
downhill in mud is primo for fun. You will slide and control will
be a non-issue, but hey that's half of the enjoyment. The only
other advice I can give you is that cleaning up after a muddy
ride is necessary, especially if you're riding a steel frame. You
can watch it fade if you don't. Take garbage bags for your muddy
clothes, and rinse them in the sink before you toss em in your
laundry maching, your significant other won't kick your ass for
leaving a ring of chud around the inside of the washing machine.
Posted by rich on June 13, 2000 at 07:31:22:
In Reply to: how to ride through mud posted by mont on June 12, 2000 at 21:12:53:
(disclaimer) Don't ride mud unless it's a race and you need to race it (points series, etc.) and the trail steward/parks people have judged that the trail won't be ruined.
1) get mud tires or tires that are narrow- 1.8 is the max for mud
like you have. I'd stay away from "spike" types- they
stick into the ground on this type of mud and cause huge drag.
2) prep the bike as much as possible- spray the frame and the shock and the underside of your saddle with something slippery like Armor-all (take wheels off and cover your brake shoes).
3) Stay out of your granny ring because it is subject to chainsuck in the mud.
4)Try to pedal circles more than ever- no surges of power. Smooth is key.
5) Don't steer- lean the bike.
6) DO NOT GO THRU GRASS OR STRAW at any time- this will clog in the mud, wrap around your gears, and render the bike inoperable.
7) When you're done, remember to take your shock apart and
clean it. You'll be "shocked".
Posted by KP on July 15, 2000 at 09:11:21:
In Reply to: Do you ride through the mud or... posted by Stine on July 15, 2000 at 06:06:13:
If you can ride around it while still staying on the trail, then go for it. It'll be faster and less chance you'll have mud-related problems (i.e. chainsuck, bad braking, etc). However, you shouldn't ride off trail to avoid it - that will widen the trail and turn singletrack into a four lane road...
If you're going to ride through it, try to set up before entering the mud so that you don't have to turn - and if you do find yourself in a situation where you have to turn in mud - turn my leaning rather than by using the bars. Also, hit it with as high of a rate of speed as possible and try to maintain momentum.
Posted by Eeny Bear on July 04, 2000 at 12:06:44:
In Reply to: loose fireroad turns posted by Dirt Monkey on July 04, 2000 at 10:48:36:
...AND THE SECRET IS :
Firstly, there's going to be some skittering no matter how you
turn a loose dirt/gravel corner. So the trick is to learn how to counter-steer
your bike correctly. As the name suggests, it's the opposite
of steering. No I'm not joking. :) A lesson is included below...
Tire choices will influence the degree of slipping and sliding and will also dictate where you can enter and exit a turn and at what speed. However, the secret for making the turn in the first place is in how you counter-steer your bike.
A lot of mtb'ers do not have much experience cornering at speed unless they have learned how to properly ride a motorcycle or a road bike.
LESSON 1 :
Try this... go to a vacant paved parking lot and get up a good
speed in a straight line. Now, ever so gently, apply a subtle
downward pressure on the right grip. The bike will veer slightly
to the right. Likewise, pressure on the left grip will turn the
bike to the left.
LESSON 2 :
Now, with your parking lot experience in recent memory, go and
try to do a dirt corner at a reasonable rate of speed. Don't
exceed the limits of common sense however. To turn left, drop
your left shoulder and apply downward/rightward pressure on the
left grip. You'll bank over and take the corner with style. Now
try it on a right turn.
HOMEWORK :
If you want a further idea of what's going on...
take your front wheel off your bike. Hold it in front of you with
your fingers gripping each end of the axle/skewer. Get somebody
to give it a good spin. Now push your right hand forward and feel
the wheel fight back and actually turn to the right. Now try the
other hand.
FURTHER STUDY :
There's a magical device called a gyroscope and an interesting
physics lesson hiding in there but sometimes you just have to
feel it to truly understand.
OTHER :
The biggest mistake a mtb'er can make is to try to
"steer" around a corner at speed. There's no faster way
to crash. A lot of motorcyle accidents result from an
inexperienced rider trying to "steer" away from an
obstacle. The reslt is they turn right into it.
Take a look at dirt track racers (both bikes and carts). Notice how the front tires are going in the opposite direction of the turn? Ever wonder how cyclists (both mtb abd road get to lean into a corner to the point where they look like they're going to fall over? It's all the result of proper counter-steering.
Keep practicing.
Be happy.
Posted by Rick on July 09, 2000 at 19:42:58:
In Reply to: loose fireroad turns posted by Dirt Monkey on July 04, 2000 at 10:48:36:
I was riding with a guy a couple years ago who was burning me
on the downhill
and I couldn't figure out why so I asked him. He told me to do
the following
and it helped me. Say youre turning left. Your right peddle
"outer" should be
the one close to the ground. You should weight heavly on that
foot..." the outer
foot." Literally puch down on it as you go into the turn. At
the same time your doing that you should be pushing down on your
left hand "inside hand" So you push down on your outer
foot and inner hand at the same time as you go into the turn.
This helps prevent the bike from sliding. It feels weird when you
first try it
but I think it helps a lot. Also, break before you go into the
turn and excelerate as you start to come out of it. Good luck
Posted by super spit on July 07, 2000 at 00:55:36:
In Reply to: loose fireroad turns posted by Dirt Monkey on July 04, 2000 at 10:48:36:
i ride loose, fast, curvy fireroads quite a bit. the way i approach a corner is this: i ride into the corner with no brakes, set up as far to the outside as possible(set up far left for a right hand corner). right before i put my bike into the corner i get on both breaks super hard "late brake". depending on how fast im going and how fierce the corner is i either let off both brakes or let off the front brake and drag the back brake. the front brake is bad when trying to corner.
now the goal is to get though the turn starting on the outside and ending up on the inside. the best way to do this fast is to set your bike into a nice tasty carve.
the best way to do this is to carve your bike just like you
carve a ski.
stand on your outside pedal agressively thoughout the turn.
put pressure on your outside grip thoughout the turn.
feel the carve and relax.
stick your inside leg out and forward if need be.
at the very last part of the corner stand up and pedal
agressively to keep your momentum up.
dh tires make a hugh difference.
Posted by Humma Hah on June 27, 2000 at 18:56:15:
In Reply to: bike drifts on loose stuff what am i doing wrong? posted by nervous on June 27, 2000 at 12:20:49:
Any time you're riding on the edge you have to expect to occasionally break loose and slide a little -- this is not necessarily a bad thing. It may feel scarry but doesn't generally mean a painful death.
Of course, it MIGHT mean a painful death if you do it with a cliff on the outside of the turn, or something similarly dangerous. The more often you get hurt or realize you might have, the more cautious you'll be at spotting places where you REALLY don't want to lose control.
If you can spot a few turns where you won't slide into anything, put on a little body armor (and maybe jeans) and try the limits of your skill on them. I sometimes use a peculiar technique -- I really lay the bike over, inside pedal up to clear the ground, most of my weight on the outside pedal, and I'm actually "on top" of the bike. I don't stay on the seat or behind it, but hook my inside leg over the top tube or behind the seat and put my body almost entirely on the side of the bike outside the turn.
This does a couple of things. First, my torso is the most massive thing turning, and I'm putting that out at a further radius on the turn, greatly reducing centrifugal force. Second, I'm pushing the tires against the ground. And if I DO end up in an uncontrolled slide, the bike takes the worst of it.
This technique is partly why I prefer small-framed bikes that give me a lot of frame-to-crotch clearance (the other reason being dislike of getting whacked in the crotch).
Another trick, for less severe turns, is to stabilize the frame. If you're just up on the pedals and bars, the bike can jerk around under you. One leg against the top tube can make the bike noticably more stable and predictable.
And try to miss those big loose bumps.
About 1/3 of the way into the turn, pretend you have no brakes. Braking at the apex is a BAD idea -- you have to coast thru. Not only will braking often cause loss of traction and control, it may also make the bike stand up and go straight, just when you most need to turn.
Even a rider who doesn't like to go fast should practice this
sort of thing. The day you snap a brake cable, or suddenly
realize you forgot to reconnect a cable after putting a wheel on,
or hit a deep puddle just before a downhill, you may find
yourself with inadequate braking. Or maybe you'll come around a
corner, another rider is coming the other way, and you have to
swing wider and turn harder than anticipated.
Posted by rich on October 12, 1998 at 13:36:41:
In Reply to: Creek riding -- fu** posted by Buff on October 12, 1998 at 10:09:27:
As for the creek riding- I hope you're just
crossing, not riding down the creek. Riding down the creek is bad
for the creek, you, and your bike. If you're crossing, try to get
a lot of speed going into the creek. Keep your pedals level and
don't steer- keep it straight, and weight balanced over the bike
in the "attack" position. Pedal only after you've lost
half your momentum. Then keep pedaling till you're clear. Don't
give up or bail out- if you keep your legs spinning and your bike
balanced you'll make it.
Posted by Eeny Bear on June 14, 1999 at 11:17:21:
Hi,
I noticed that there has been a lot of talk about turning over the last few days including a "spirited debate" involving trail maintenance. :) A couple of things occured to me. Many MTBers (despite brave claims) have not successfully or often ridden in excess of 20 MPH (30 KpH). And, they may not have had the pleasure of learning how to properly ride a motorcycle or a high-speed road bike. These missed experiences may have denied them the opportunity to feel the effect of "pushing" through a turn.
For those that know what I'm about to talk about, just skip to
the next message. For the few others, try the following:
1. take the front wheel off your bike
2. hold it in front of you with each hand holding one end of the
axle.
3. get someone to spin the tire (hold it away from your nose)
Now push your left hand gently away from you. Feel the force of the wheel push back against your hand and actually turn the wheel into the pressure. Now push gently with your right hand and feel the wheel turn to the right. It's counter-intuitive but it works. And this way you don't have to learn a bunch of physics formulae involving momentum and angular acceleration and our old friend centrifugal/centripital force. Practical experience is so much better.
Now, put your wheel back on your bike. Go to the mall parking lot and pedal really fast until you're going upwards of 20mph. Now, while coasting and without shifting your weight, press gently forward on the left bar and feel the bike turn left. Then push gently on the right bar and feel the bike turn right. I say gently but you'll find that you need to exert a fairly firm pressure to make it work. Start slow and build up.
Now we're going to put it together. You know those magical times when you lean into a turn the turn feels effortless? That's largely because - now visualize this - as you lean you are pushing the bar away from the direction you want to go thereby actually push-steering the bike into the turn. Feels good doesn't it? And you were doing it without realizing it.
To maintain complete control once your bike has a stable rolling speed you must push-steer - no exceptions. This is the main reason for a very high percentage of high speed bike and motorcycle accidents. The car door appears or the tree is in the way and you try to steer around it ...... but at speed, your bike will turn the opposite from the direction you "twist the bars". So many inexperienced motorcycle riders actually drive right into the obstacle they were trying to steer away from. As mountain bike speeds increase, many riders will actually hit the tree or rock they are trying to steer away from.
So, try the wheel trick. Then, try to push-steer in a parking
lot. And the next time you have to try a high-speed turn on the
trail:
1. pick the straightest line if you have any options
2. straight-leg the outside of the turn to load the side lugs of
your tires, and
3. push the bar away from the turn
and you'll sail around the corner with little or no skiddiing.
YEE HAAAWWW !!
If this qualifies as a blinding glimpse of the bloody obvious for you then just smile and go on to the next post. If it's new information please give it a try. I, for one, really appreciated being told this when I was starting to ride motorcycles and I use it all the time now with my bike.
Be happy.
Posted by wheely30km on June 09, 2000 at 04:56:40:
In Reply to: High Speed Cornering posted by road rash on June 08, 2000 at 17:57:10:
If you are going to the grip limit, you should use the
motorcycle technique : Inside foot off the pedals and forward
(e.g. near the front hub). The more weight you have on a tire,
the more it grips, so putting your feet forward adds weight to
the front, and unweighed the rear. So when you go to the limit,
the rear wheel will slide first. In most cases, when the rear
begins to slide, countersteering will control the slide, and you
won't slide all at once. Once you begin to slide with the rear,
you can put your weight backwards: more weight on the rear = more
grip = reduces & stops sliding.
If they use this technique in motocross, downhill, Dual slalom,
it's because it's the best one.
Exception : when you come to soft surfaces : you have to put
weight on the rear : otherwise, the front will sink into the
sand/snow/mud..., and you'll lose control. Put your weight back,
and the front wheel will "float" on the sand. Of
course, you don't have the same grip than on hard surfaces.
This also can be a cause of crash : you come from hard surfaces, weight front, and when you come with the front wheel on slippy or soft surfaces, you'll slide all at once with the front; so watch the ground !
Hope this helps,
Pascal
Posted by Jury Rig on February 02, 1999 at 14:21:09:
In Reply to: How do you do a trackstand? posted by Gearhead W on February 02, 1999 at 13:52:46:
Position over your bike is obviously important. I bend my knees a little, and get my head and chest up over the stem. Keep your arms pretty straight but not locked and your butt floating in the air. I use my inside calf/thigh to stay in contact with the bike (helps keep my balance).
Start in a parking lot or something with a smooth surface and a slight incline (the steeper the better, to a degree).
Ride perpendicular to the slope and use your brakes to slow down. Turn you wheel so that it points up the slope at a 45-60 degree angle (and more and you can't roll the front wheel). Try to set yourself up so that you turn the wheel away from your lead foot (which is the foot you feel more comfortable having in front).
Now your stopped (or close to it) on a slope with your wheel pointing upwards. Give your front foot a little push. Notice that your bike is shifted up the slope and so you will fall down the slope. Set up again, and this time take the pressue off your back pedal. Your bike should roll back a little and with the front wheel turned, your bike should shift down the slope and you'll fall towards the uphill side.
Now you have all the mechanics of it, but you need to put it together. Setup again and try to stand perfectly still. You won't be able to hold this very long. If you feel yourself falling uphill, give the front pedal a soft push to bring the bike back under you. If you fall downhill, unweight the back pedal to compensate.
This will be easier on a steeper slope and harder on a shallow one. There's one more trick to learn when trying it on a downhill or a flat surface, but post again after you've gotten this far.
Good luck, and don't get frustrated. Do this for half and hour straight and you'l learn it in no time.
Jeff
Posted by Jury Rig on February 04, 1999 at 14:26:44:
In Reply to: Thanks, but some q's? posted by Gearhead on February 04, 1999 at 12:41:18:
Okay, the gearing I use is usually granny, and the fourth (this is cause I only have a granny ring up front... trials bike). I like something pretty low, because its easier to torque, but you might want something a little higher so that you don't have to take as much of a stroke to compensate. You should be able to rock with it though (so it's gotta be pretty low). Actually the grade you're on makes a big difference. I learned to do this at my school where they've got this big hill. The grade's gotta be 30-40 degrees! I just dumped it into a really small gear and did the rocking thing. It sounds like you're getting the feeling for the rocking back and forth so you don't have to worry about getting a really big grade. But a lower gearing has better 'feel' but a higher one requires less motion (and hence shifts your balance less). Find a happy medium.
I assume that when you say you've pedaled a few times and you're perpendicular, you have been ratcheting your cranks. Good, I forgot to tell you that. Well, if you're ending up parallel to the grade, then you're leaning to far uphill (and hence, as you say, you always have to pedal forward to keep balanced). This is a common problem because it feels more 'natural' to prepare to fall uphill (where you tend to look and pedal). Try to get used to rolling backwards more and lean a bit back downhill. Just keep concentrating on the rocking motion and you'll get more used to it without riding upwards.
Overall, you should stay pretty centred on the bike, but you can use slight weight shifts to compensate. Try to stay centred though.
Another tip, look at a stationary object about ten feet in front of you (it's not really that important how far, but make sure it's stationary). That helped me a lot. Focus on it, and 'feel' which way you're falling rather than seeing it. (But don't do it with you're eyes closed cause that messes you up).
It sounds like you're doing really well. Keep practicing and let me know how it's going.
Jeff
Posted by Jury Rig on February 02, 1999 at 14:24:11:
In Reply to: Some tips posted by Jury Rig on February 02, 1999 at 14:21:09:
Brakes. Yeah, my friend kept asking me what to do with the brakes.
Umm... I use them to come to a stop, but if the slope is steep enough, you don't need them. So while you're learning, I say use the brakes to stop initially. Then stay off the brakes and try to use the slope or front pedal to stop you during your shifts back and forth.
Oh, and another tip: don't think of it as an exercise in stillness, think of it as rocking back and forth to stay upright. It's like a unicyclist. Notice how he never sits still, but is rocking back and forth to stay up? Same idea.
Jeff
Posted by beej on July 29, 1999 at 00:42:20:
In Reply to: how to jump logs without bending chainrings? posted by alex on July 28, 1999 at 22:02:04:
One option is to get a Rock Ring (chainring ring guard).
Otherwise, it's all about timing. When you approach a log thats higher than your chainring clearance, you need to pull up on the handlebars and land the front wheel on the log. As your front wheel is about to land on the log, jump up as hard as you can and lift your rear wheel high in the air. If you do it right, you'll make it over the log by wheeling on your front wheel for a foot or so and then dropping the rear wheel down on the log and riding away.
To practise this, first do it on a single step to get the right timing. Remember, AS YOUR FRONT WHEEL IS ABOUT TO LAND ON THE STEP, JUMP! This should give you the right timing for logs.
beej over and out
Posted by Cyemm on June 28, 2000 at 23:57:31:
In Reply to: hopping posted by pokgai on June 28, 2000 at 13:44:44:
Of what you do involves your hands.
Rolling at a jog pace, crouch down, compressing the tires/suspension/bending your knees and elbows. Time your jump so the rebound of this compression aids the jump.
To lift off - you've got the right idea with your feet, they should "curl" down and back. Bending the knees can aid in getting more height, too.
Your hands initially pull the bar up and forward, give a wrist rotation to help the rear up. It should feel like you're twisting the grips like a motorcycle throttle, except it's the opposite direction. Think about the bike first gaining height nose first, then imagine rotating the entire bike around the grips.
That's it. The trick is to time it right. Practise, practie more. try hopping small objects to aid your sense of the bike's position and attitude in the air.
Happy Hopping.
Posted by Sam B on July 12, 2000 at 20:24:44:
In Reply to: Bunnyhop posted by Groog on July 12, 2000 at 18:53:42:
I could help you with all but the narrow plank, but I'm not up to that so I'll jsut help you with the bunnyhop. First of all you can get very high by pulling the front wheel way up untill you are almost looping out then tucking your legs up to your body and shoving farther forward (and up) with your bars. I can hop right onto the benchless side of picnic tables with this technique.
Here goes...
try and break the bunnyhop down in two motions but keep a fluid connection between the two. It's sort of an up, then forward, motion. Pull your bars back as you shift your body back (without bending your arms much at this point), then pull your arms back a little. This is the end of the first part of the motion, next you push your bars up and forward as you pull back (this is kind of crucial) and up with your feet. Your hands should have made kind of a 'C' motion with the curve towards your body - does this make sense?
If that was confusing let me know. I think the best way to learn is to watch BMX videos... Oh yeah and regarding the logs larger than your chainring...
If the trail is straight and easy on both sides of the log you should just try and hop it (be ready to come up short). But if this isn't possible (or easy) try going medium/slow and lofting your front wheel onto it. Then, as it starts to roll off the back side, lift your back wheel onto the log and let it roll off.
Good luck,
Sma B
Posted by Photino on July 03, 2000 at 10:00:53:
Here's how to wheelie:
1)pedal and get front wheel up off ground but progressively
reduce the power as you get the front wheel higher off the ground
2)find the point where you feel an overwhelming sense of comfort
in the bike
3)lightly hit brakes (with the amount of force that a leaf stuck
in your brakes would supply)
4)supply light stream of power to stay there (with the amount of
power a small breaze would give you).
Learning how to wheelie just takes a lot of practice, to be precise about 20 minutes a day for 2 months take or add a month. Basically you just have to be calm about your approach and not try to do a wheelie right away, but instead to work on getting the front wheel up one day, feathering the brakes another, then learning how to pedal lightly and putting them all together on the fourth day. Also the balance point, it's a crazy thing but you just gotta try to move your bike and body around to find it and try to stay there as long as you can. Also one mistake i see my brother make trying to do a wheelie is that he can't really control the amount of power he gives to the brakes or to the pedals so he just goes out of control even if he does find the balance point.
Posted by tom on June 13, 2000 at 13:44:47:
In Reply to: how to ride a manual posted by kendog on June 13, 2000 at 13:13:54:
1) stand up
2) go at a medium pace
3) pull up like a muthafucka
4) keep your butt way back over your wheel, and keep your arms
almost fully extended. make small adjustments by slightly bending
your legs
5) if you feel like you're gonna tip backwards, feather the brake
6) practice a lot and a lot
that's the best way. or you can try doing a wheelie while seated, and just stop pedaling while leaning way back, further than you would have to if you were pedaling.
for what it's worth, I can do a fairly good manual on my BMX
bike, but can't get the front end up at all on my mountain bike
(a 19" frame)
Posted by LeeL on June 13, 2000 at 15:22:33:
In Reply to: here's how posted by tom on June 13, 2000 at 13:44:47:
more - use flat pedals. tip your knees side to side to control
sideways movements. If you want to just work on the balance point
- practise on a slight uphill
Posted by NearTheEdge on June 14, 2000 at 14:46:24:
In Reply to: how to ride a manual posted by kendog on June 13, 2000 at 13:13:54:
The other tips were great but for most people who aren't X-BMX'ers, the manual or "wheelie" is difficult because they are unfamiliar with the concept of getting the front wheel lofted high enough to get a full manual going. Here's a great way how:
1) Start by rolling on a smooth flat surface with pedals level, strong foot forward.
2) Here's the secret: shift your body weight forward on the handlebars. This will compress the front tire/shock and build up potential energy. Kind of like a spring, this will help you bounce up that front tire.
3) At the moment of full compression, shift your weight back while simlutaneously yanking back on the handlebars and pedal forward at the same instance. If this is timed right (and it takes a little practice) your front wheel WILL loft. Keep pedaling and balancing to keep the manual going.
Over rotating can also be a concern ~ to compesate and return your front wheel to earth ~ you can give the rear break lever a tap or simply shift your body weight slightly forward.
The manual isn't just for show either. You can use it to surmount stream beds and V dips. It helps keep your speed up and prevents endos.
Hope that helps-RideHard
Posted by bania on June 18, 1999 at 09:57:35:
In Reply to: Help! I can't ride drops.... posted by Alex on June 18, 1999 at 02:01:56:
It is all mental, but there is a lot of technique involved too!!, depending which method you want to use, of course.
Woodmouse mentions lofting the front wheel method, a manual.This works great, it works well with a little speed and a FS bike(it doesn't have to be FS)but there is more of a tendency to land on both wheels with this method. So the comfort of FS would be better this way, especially when you're dropping 4ft or more.
The "wheelie drop" method is the way to go for now, keep practising on the small stuff and work your way up until your confidence is so high you could do it with your eyes closed. A 4ft drop is the same as a 1ft drop, technique wise, just have to use more body to soften the landing on the bigger drops.
Something a lot of people do when "wheelie dropping" is bring the front wheel up very high at the start. You don't have to get it up very high at all, just keep the front wheel higher than the back!, sound stupid?..yep, let the back end drop out from underneath you. And only use two pedal strokes leading up to the drop, as your front wheel is about to go over the edge, with your OPPOSITE foot forward,a half pedal stroke will keep the front level or to bring it up a little. Now you have your good foot forward and your front end dangling over the drop, right?..all you need is to continue with your pedal stroke smoothly and you will drop in nice and easy. If you need to get a little distance from the drop, in case there is something at the bottom of the drop you need to clear, or if the drop isn't abrupt but sloping, then with your good foot forward you can use a little bit of a pedal kick to get the required distance...It's not really a proper pedal kick, but more of a stronger and quicker quarter of a pedal stroke.
If you are wheelie dropping higher than 4ft, then you should learn how to pedal kick from you rear wheel, takes a lot of practice, worth it though it's a way more controlled method. You can basically inch your way to the edge of the drp on your rear wheel this way, and slowly lower your front end and then just let the back roll off the edge..This takes a ton of practice though, but it's a real cool feeling dropping in using this method!!
If you want more info, there's a lot of info in the archives on wheelie drops and such
Oh yea, Have Fun!
ken
Posted by bania on November 06, 1998 at 15:11:42:
In Reply to: Trials help: Pedal kicks and the like posted by Dave on November 06, 1998 at 13:38:10:
Sounds like your part way there Dave, pedal kicks are so important in trials once you learn them, you will be surprised how much faster alot of other technique's come, they're used everywhere,sidehops,hopping,gapping,etc.
I'll tell ya a little exercises to practice timing first. Riding on a level surface at a slow speed(actually from a stand still is better).With your good foot forward, say at about the nine 'o' clock position,in one quick motion ratchet it back to about 11 'o' clock, and then a forward again, (obviously this is he pedal kick part).as you kick forward, throw your weight back and brake (rear)at the same time. Keep repeating this for awhile, eventually the timing will become second nature and you won't even have to think about it.
As far as rear wheel hopping/lunging goes , getting up on your rear wheel with a pedal kick is the first part, similar timing to above. But, as you pedal kick, throw your arse back and sort of down over your rear wheel(helping to lift the front wheel) then as you pedal kick lunge up and slightly forward, while grabbing a handful of rear brake.As you pedal kick, you can pull the bar in towards you hips/stomach slightly, but normally the pedal kick pushes that front wheel up anyways as long as your body position is correct.Once you start to get it, you may find that your pedal positioning is off, you may have to ratchet farther back for the pedal kick,otherwise you will find your pedal positions way off, it takes alot of practice, but eventually you will figure out where you need that pedal to be for an effective pedal kick(normally around 11-12 'o'clock).
There's a few other trials riders that hang out here, hopefully they will add to this and possibly correct this, it's not an easy technique to explain.
Good Luck....and have fun!!
Kenny b.
Posted by rich on March 07, 2000 at 07:49:47:
In Reply to: How to ride off-camber turns and switchbacks? posted by Bryan K on March 06, 2000 at 20:10:23:
If the off-camber turn is loose, you got to take it easy. If it is firm, then lean the bike severely but keep yourself upright- while putting ALL your weight on the outside pedal- and it will rail.
Practice on an open grassy hillside- get some speed going straight down, then start to cut across the slope. Keep practicing short runs until you are really building speed and confidence. Then lay out markers that force you to think "stay on the trail". Oh- do it both left and right- most of us turn better one way than the other. Discover which is your weaker side and build it up.
Once you're more confident and faster at off-camber on fiirm
ground, move to looser conditions, and learn to drift without
panicking.
Posted by Kendog on July 28, 1998 at 12:37:23:
In Reply to: big ass root posted by Jaybird on July 27, 1998 at 16:24:00:
I can't promise that this would work, but this is what I would
try (and have in similar situations). As your approaching the
root pick up as much speed as you can. I doubt you'll get too
fast since you are going uphill. Lift the front tire up onto the
root. Immediately throw your weight up and forward to lift the
rear wheel. As soon as the rear wheel is up high enough push the
bike forward. Hopefully, if you picked the rear wheel up high
enough and moved forward enough your back tire will be sitting on
the root now. Try this a couple of times and you should be able
to get it to work. I use this technique to clear a real tough
deadfall on a climb in my favorite trail.
Posted by BigRing on July 10, 2000 at 13:13:52:
In Reply to: Tips on clearing roots and rocks while on steep hi posted by Scott on July 10, 2000 at 11:00:09:
Like the wise acre says, very carefully.
I do two things. Much like what rich and Stine said.
I have learned to do a little wheelie while standing and cranking
hard uphill. Just enough to let the front wheel roll over the
root or rock. If traction is good that is enough to clear.
If traction is bad or if there is multiple bad things in the
trial I do the little crank and hop at speed. You have to think
of the front and rear tire as two seperate things. You are not
riding your bike you are pushing and pulling two wheels. Both
moving through space at different time intervals. In your
mind,simultaneously, pilot the front and back wheel seperately.
If your strong or you have long cranks or low gear you can almost
come to a stop or track stand when your front or back tire hits a
root. Most of the time keeping some momentum is key.
So, at risk of confusing you more,... As you approach the nasties
pull up on the front end in time with the pedal stroke to lift
the front wheel enough to roll over the mean root. As you stay on
the power and when the back wheel approaches the root, very
quickly and smoothly unweight the rear and do a micro hop. Not a
real hop just enough to take your full weight off the rear. What
you are doing is preventing yourself from putting full torque to
the wheel while it is in contact with the root and thus spinning
out. As soon as you are over, put the meat back to the cranks and
continue your momentum. With multiple roots you just gotta
practice.
Hope that makes sense...
Posted by Rick on December 09, 1999 at 14:40:54:
In Reply to: Riding (without falling down) "V" ruts posted by Yeti girl on December 08, 1999 at 08:47:38:
If I'm trying to ride a rut I'll keep the front tire weighted
enough to maintain steering. Moving you're weight back causes the
front tire to wander and unless the rut is straight you'll end up
slaming into the next turn. Keeping your weight neutral to
forward is the best for situations that aren't too steep. When
things do get steep I get out or slow down.
Posted by john on December 09, 1999 at 09:48:05:
In Reply to: Riding (without falling down) "V" ruts posted by Yeti girl on December 08, 1999 at 08:47:38:
reading about where you got the scraps tells me that you where in
the rut and tryed to redirect the bike outta the rut by turning
the bar, hoping that the front wheel would come outta it. Instead
it stopped and you went off the front-side. Hey i did this about
3 weeks ago on a HT and augered in hard.
In any rut you cant get outta the rut or control yourself just by turning the bar to direct yourself. its a leaning and turning thing. Also look down the rut and around the sides of it for areas where you can exit the rut, get traction and get threw that part of the trail.
First, dont stand up over the bike. hover over the bike , bend elbows and knees. As you hit things in and on the sides of the rut keep your upper body as still as poosible using your arms and legs to lean the bike to redirect it or react to things youve hit in or on the side of the rut. if you over exaggerate your actions in response to hitting something your upper bodies over correction will turn the bar, redirect the front wheel into the side of the rut and youll go over.
Dont hammer on the brakes. Slowing down to a crawl will make
getting outta the rut harder. you have to have some momentum so
you can lean and turn the bike outta the rut, bunny hop outta the
rut or lift the front wheel over the lip of the rut to get outta
it.
Posted by Shaun on August 10, 2000 at 20:20:38:
I just wanted to share this article I came across on the IMBA website. Probably old news, but the Bikes vs. Horse thing comes up here occasionally and I found it pretty interesting reading.
[http://www.imba.com/resources/soft_cycling/horses.html]
Equestrians And Cyclists: Can We Get Along?
Theo Stein
Perhaps no animal has meant as much to the advance of human culture as the horse. Paleolithic man first looked to this grazing herd animal as meat on the hoof. The trick was getting close enough to strike. On the steppes where it evolved, the horse's keen eyesight, hearing and blazing speed made it just about safe from attack. Hunters of all species had to wait for the herd to maneuver into tighter quarters like in the woods along a stream or water hole.
Once the horse was domesticated, its trainability, strength and speed afforded human cultures a quantum leap forward. The horse became beast of burden, transportation and a devastating weapon of war. On the broad back of this noble beast, kingdoms were gained and kingdoms lost. Today, because of the relative fortune required to purchase and maintain a horse, equestrians are often wealthy and landed citizens: people with clout.
Therein lies the rub: mountain biking is a new sport whose devotees are relatively young and not rich. We all wish it were otherwise, but money talks. It is the horse owners who will be able to pull the right strings when conflicts arise. Therefore, it behooves (sorry) us to make friends of equestrians, rather than enemies.
A wary, fast animal of wide open spaces
But this issue is more than just a turf battle over trails
between us young turks and them establishment types. It also has
to do with safety. On the back of a startled horse, attached only
by gripping thighs, a rider is in an extremely precarious
position. And to a horse, a mountain biker screaming around a
blind corner at Warp Nine looks like a nightmare from hell:
alien, silent and horrifyingly fast.
While hiker-cyclist conflicts provoke most land access battles, chance encounters between horses and bicycles pose a far greater threat of injury and death. A horse, by design, is a nervous, cautious beast. Mountain bikers are, more or less, risk-takers. When these two very different users meet unexpectedly on the trail, the results are sometimes disastrous.
Deb Carano, a rider for 26 years and world-class equestrienne racer from New England, believes that the majority of unpleasant horse-bicycle incidents arise from our own ignorance about how this this herbivore perceives its world. When faced with potential danger, humans may choose to fight or flee. Horses have one response, and that's flight - right now.
One of Deb's housemates, Tunde "Tucsi" Ludanye, has studied equine behavior and sensory perception. She said that if self-preservation is the first law of nature, it's also the last word in horse sense. The horse has an inbred fear of being eaten. It is known to be the fastest animal in the world at distances over 50 yards, but within that distance, it is vulnerable to ambush artists like lions and wolves. That first 50 yards is crucial. To gain this ever-important head start, a horse depends on an amazing sensory system - a 360-degree field of vision and ears which swivel a full 180 degrees.
Tucci said it's possible to understand a horse's seemingly irrational reactions as natural wariness. Remember, it's an animal of wide open spaces, not twisty single track. Tucci notes that a horse instinctively fears small, tight, dark places, like a trailer, as place where a horse-eater may be lurking. A tight trail in deep woods may also make a horse nervous, Deb said.
The only way to calm a spooked horse is to convince it that there is nothing to fear. A trained animal takes its cues from its rider or other horses. A startled horse under a startled rider is a dangerous combination. A startled horse under a calm rider is less so.
One of the most volatile elements in the mix is that every animal is different. "My horse Hardin is bomb-proof," she said. "The previous owner used to take him hunting and shoot a gun off his back." Deb and Hardin also used to tag along behind a racer-friend when he trained in the woods. "Hardin loved it. He would just fall in behind the bike and away we'd go. But even with a bomb-proof horse, if you startle it, it's going to shy."
While a horse is a large animal, it is also quite fragile. "There are a number of things that can happen to a horse, just like with any human athlete." A spooked horse, madly dashing over hill and dale, can easily pop a tendon, tear a ligament, break a cannon bone, or twist a fetlock, which is the equine equivalent of spraining our wrist. Any of those injuries entail a long-term recovery and big-time veterinarian costs. A severe injury may oblige the owner to euthanize the animal, which is part cherished friend and part investment. Any rider who has had a horse injured or put down after being spooked by cyclists is sure to hit the warpath against mountain bike access.
But the party most in danger during unexpected confrontations is the person is the person riding a spooked horse.
"Typically horses weigh 1,000 pounds and up," she said. "When you startle a horse, its instinctive reaction is flight, and that's when people get hurt." The most common injuries, Deb said, are broken shoulders and wrists and lungs punctured by broken ribs. But more serious injuries do happen. Deb said she saw one rider break his back after getting thrown. She also knows of riders who were killed after they were thrown into a tree or stone wall. Even a sudden sideways movement in the woods may result in the rider being crushed against a tree or clotheslined by a low-hanging limb.
How to avoid conflict
Approaching a horse and rider suddenly from the rear is the most
perilous type of meeting. Popping up in a horse's face will
certainly scare the bejeesus out of the animal, but at least the
rider can quickly identify the nature of the threat and act
accordingly.
A horse is likely to sense a cyclist approaching from the rear before its rider, and will instinctively perceive that cyclist as a threat to its safety. That's why it is vital that you make your presence known to the rider.
"No matter which way you approach, it's critical you alert the rider as soon as possible," Deb said. The best thing to do, she said, is to slow to a crawl or stop and ask the rider for instructions. Don't be bashful and don't wait until you get close. Just sing out, "Rider back. May we pass?"
The rider may tell you to pass, or to wait while he or she moves the horse off the trail. The rider may just need to turn the animal around so it can look you over. With a skittish animal or inexperienced rider, you may have to dismount and move off the trail yourself.
Deb also recommends you outfit your bike with a bell, even a tiny, tin kitty bell under your seat. "That may give the horse and rider the split-second warning they need to buy time for everybody involved."
But the most important thing is to let the equestrian control the flow of events. The horse needs to know the rider is in charge. "Ask the rider for instructions no matter what, she said. "They will appreciate it."
Anticipating incidents is the best way to avoid nasty accidents. Keep your eyes open for horse sign on the trail. A 1,200 pound animal shod with steel shoes leaves tracks on everything short of asphalt. Even then, manure piles should alert you that you're sharing the trail with an animal.
If you suspect there's a horse somewhere ahead of you, consider riding elsewhere. If it's your training day, do ride elsewhere. Otherwise, proceed with caution and make noise as you go.
Despite having a bomb-proof horse familiar with bicyclists, Deb said that she tries to keep Hardin away from mountain bikes whenever possible, more so because she's afraid of how bikers will act than how Hardin will.
"I like trail riding, but it's not relaxing, she said. Given that a horse may spook at the sight of a deer, a few anxious moments per ride in the woods is the norm. Knowing that mountain bikes may be in the area ratchets up the tension level dramatically.
"To be honest, I don't go to areas where I can expect to run into them," she said. "The potential for disaster is just too great where the horse and rider are concerned. I've been there and it's not fun."
Getting along
That admission begs the question: "Can we get along? Yes, if
we show respect and a sense of knowing what horses do and what
they need. If we don't do that, then I think we're going to be
denied access to a lot of great mountain biking." And who
wants that?
More Horse Sense From Equestrian Reader
Margo Ems, Lincoln, NE
I am a horse owner and have been trailriding the Midwest for 15 years. I also serve as equestrian advisor for numerous city and state level trail advisory groups, and non-profit trail organizations. I would like to say a BIG THANK YOU for running the informative article, "Equestrians and cyclists: Can we get along?" by Theo Stein in the September ITN.
I would like to make a couple more suggestions: 1) If a horse is crossing a bridge, cyclists should always wait for the the horse to finish. 2) Cyclists should never approach a horse while it is crossing creeks or other water. 3) When calling to the horserider to alert them of your presence, remember it is best not to holler or yell excitedly, but to speak calmly. If the cyclist is some distance from the horse, a loud but calm voice should be used. There is nothing wrong with a "Hello, it's really a nice day for riding, isn't it?" The more an approaching cyclists talks when passing, the more the horse will realize it is just a human being on a strange looking contraption.
One last thing just to set the record straight. Although owning a horse is an expensive hobby, the majority of horse owners who trailride for pleasure are not wealthy. Many trailriders are silly enough to dump every last, hard-earned dime they have into their hobby so that they can do what they enjoy. For many, trailriding is all they do with their horses. They don't show them and do not own expensive horses of show caliber. But they do come from all walks of life, just a mountain bikers do.
If all of us use a little common courtesy, and take into consideration the excellent points you have made in your article, everyone can go home at the end of the day after a safe and very enjoyable ride. Again, thanks for helping others understand a bit of horse psychology and promoting trail etiquette.
Posted by Cyemm on July 24, 2000 at 23:10:12:
In Reply to: How to keep your nose up in a jump? posted by Traveler on July 24, 2000 at 21:00:56:
If you hit front first all the time, you're not compressing the bike at the right time. The reason the front hits first is that it leaves the ground first, so the bike pivots around the rear axle since it(the rear tire) hasn't yet become airborne. You have to do something to keep the front up until the rear comes over the lip.
Can you bunnyhop? The idea of bending your knees and elbows to drop your bodyweight then pushing back up, extending and pushing the bike down and away from you provides the compression. As the tires and suspension rebound, you time it so you're still pulling up, so the bike sees you as weightless and freely comes off the ground.
Play with this idea of weighting and unweighting. It's surprisingly like downhill skiing. It'll also let you flow through sections of trail with less effort. Got a riding bud who just seems smooth, gliding through nasty stuff, rarely pinch flatting? He's learned to use the terrain and this unweighting idea to make the bumps work for him.
Practise. Bounce up and down on your bike as you ride. Feel the rebound. Progress to pulling the front up off the earth a little. Add a wrist twist and forward weight shift to make the rear come up as well. Now you're a hoppin' fool.
Start finding rolling dips. Feel the compression at the low point, add to it by dropping your body and then springing back up at the right time. Since the bike's now weightless, it'll float up the rise effortlessly.
O.K., jumps. The idea is to use a compression on the run-up, timed so the rebound will occur at the lip. This (you might have to exaggerate the bar pull) will keep your front up as it leaves the ground.
Start small. Please. For small stuff(say, axle height), landing level is O.K. As you get better and more comfortable, you'll try bigger stuff. The bigger you go, the more important it is to have a rear-first landing.(easier on components, more stable)
The way to accomplish this on the big stuff is to extend your legs in the air, so you're pushing the rear of the bike down, while pulling the bar toward your chest. As the rear touches down, your legs are extended, so you can bend at the knees and suck up the impact. The bike pivots around the rear axle as you're landing, spreading the impact force over time, lessing the peak forces on any one component.
A big mistake newbie jumpers make is to become a "dead soldier" in the air. If you become rigid, you'll land at the same angle you left the jump, often canted to the left or right, which means you'll wipeout on the landing. Try to stay loose in the air. A tip is to turn the bars a little as you leave the ground. This is called crossing up. It looks like you're just stylin', but it actually gives you a frame of reference and something to do during your flight, ensuring you'll stay fluid. Just remember to straighten the bars before you land.
My novel. Hope it helps.
Posted by harookz on May 21, 1999 at 21:52:29:
In Reply to: Teeter Totter HELP!!!!!!!! posted by Bob on May 21, 1999 at 17:44:24:
I've aired off teeter totters without making them move. The trick is to either...
1) Go at a slow controled speed and ride it.
2) Go at a high speed and air off it without even making the teeter totter move.
My advice would be to try #1 first. Just go at a speed where you have enough momentum to carry you to the midpoint of the teeter totter, the tt will slowly drop and just ride her through=)
Good luck!
Harookz
Posted by LeeL on May 10, 1999 at 09:50:44:
In Reply to: Re: Tips on riding logs? posted by kendog on May 10, 1999 at 04:04:04:
I'd agree - you're nuts to ride a log 10' off the ground, unless
- its wider than your tires
- you're riding flats
- you've got armour
- you can ditch your bike quickly and not care about it because
your bike is tough
- you practise on logs a little bit closer to the ground.
- you pedal smooth even strokes while on the log
- you can learn to close out the vision of the drop on each side
of you and ignore same
Most of the skill is in your head.