Namibia December 2003

Namibia - Dec 2003

Dust, dust everywhere. Range Rovers are not as dustproof as Landrovers and they in turn are not dustproof at all.

We travelled 6725 km in about 3 weeks. Most of that was on dirt and salt roads. In the 12 years since I was last there I had forgotten how big and empty this country was. In a V8 Range Rover petrol was going to be a major cost. Apart from a few niggles and the one brake disc cover falling off the car gave no trouble. Except, of course, for its usual trick of exploding tyres. The first one went on the way to Twyfelfontein. Quite surprisingly we were able to replace the tyre in Henties Bay. Then the second one split on the road to Sesriem. They managed to repair it and put a tube in for good measure. Both of these were Michelin tyres of which I am rapidly becoming to hate. On a previous trip another Michelin tyre burst.

As is usual we took a lot of stuff with us that we didn't need or use. A waterproof awning comes to mind. As does a box or two of spare parts and lubricants which were, fortunately, unnecessary. And the fishing rod and tackle.

Namibia has changed since I was last there. There are entrance fees for everywhere. Curios are ridiculously expensive. Camping is expensive. But there are now campsites and lodges everywhere. We didn't ever struggle to find accomodation even though it was peak holiday season. The coast is of course full of Namibian holiday makers. The interior seemed to be full of South African tourists. But it is a big place and there are very few people in it. And those few people are amazingly friendly and approachable. Wherever we went - borderposts included, people would smile. Even the few police roadblocks we came across were pleasant and helpful. This seemes to be a nation at peace with itself.

In Botswana the people are different. We learnt last year and it was similar this year. They are distant and unsmiling. Arrogant maybe. It takes a lot of effort to start a conversation. Especially with the officials at the border posts.

Swakopmund has grown. There are apartments as far as the eye can see going up the coast. And lots more development still continuing. The chocolate cake is disappointing - The fabled Cafe Anton came out with a piece that any schoolchild with a cake-in-a-box would have put to shame. But Kukes Restaurant is still going - not as a pub but as a much enlarged restaurant. The steenbras was tremendous. Another restaurant we went to was the popular Brau Haus. Excellent atmosphere and food.

Luderitz is windy. It doesn't stop. Maybe drops a bit in the evenings. But not much. Driving into Luderitz we encountered a sandstorm which cleaned the wheels on the one side of the car and removed a lot of oil from underneath. It also removed a lot of paint from the bumber and grille as well as leaving the windscreen pockmarked. Driving into Luderitz on the tar road one has to weave from side to side to avoid the sand drifts.

Luderitz is also beige. When asked when last it had rained our waitress responded - Never, It never rains in Luderitz.

Kang, Botswana you may camp behind the garage for a fee. Can highly recommend the restaurant - had a wonderful fillet steak.

En route to the Namibian border post

Our first recreational stop in Gobabis - Erics Bistro. Pleasant surprise is that the cheap local beer is now Windhoek and Tafel Lager. And the imported Castle etc cost more.

Boy, it took a long time for the gate to open and close.

Xain Quaz Lodge near Gobabis.

Hochfeld - a hotel, filling station and general dealer.

The road to Twyfelfontein

Aba Huab campsite, Twyfelfontein.

Twyfelfontein is famous for its rock engravings. Including animals not found in the area anymore.

The rings of dots enclosing a moon are a type of calendar.

Some engravings show the spoor of the creatures being hunted. Other engravings were copies done by children. Sort of a classroom.

Bottom centre is a lion with an antelope in its mouth. And a very long tail.

The Burnt Mountain

The Organ Pipes near the Burnt Mountain.

The longest tree in the petrified forest and Welwitschia plant. Think I have the same photo from the last time I was there.

Our campsite at Aba Huab.

Sunset at Aba Huab

The road to the Skeleton Coast

And this is what the Skeleton Coast National Park looks like.

Toscannini - failed guano project.

But the cormorants seem to like it there.

Some old shipwreck - V12 engine still visible.

Mile 108 campsite - fishermens heaven.

Cape Cross seal colony. They are just like people - noisy, smelly and bad tempered.

Campsite in Henties Bay. Our very own ablution block and kitchen.

Henties Bay

And golf course.

The picnic spot on the way to the Brandberg.

The Brandberg

From left Pondokke, Big Spitzkop and Small Spitzkop on the far right.

Spitzkoppe campsite.

On the way up to Bushmans paradise in the Spitzkoppe.

Bushman paradise is a valley in the Pondokke with lots of plants and shelter. Some paintings too. Probably water if you know where to look. But we had cold beer in the car so it wasn't necessary.