The Turbo Charger

Very few people actually know how a turbocharger works, so below is the best basic description I have ever read. If you don't feel like reading this, and you don't already know you should probably go back to the Basics Modifications page. Because building a forced induction set up will require a lot of patience, money, time, and above all you must understand exactly how they work. So to do this, just click on the link below.
How a Turbo Charger works

Remember, turbochargers only work under load.

Different Types of Turbo Chargers Ball Bearings-Some turbochargers use ball bearings instead of fluid bearings to support the turbine shaft. These bearings are made of very light, but strong material to handle the speeds and temperature of the turbo. They allow the turbine shaft to spin with less friction than the fluid bearings used in most turbochargers. They also allow a slightly smaller and lighter shaft to be used. The lighter the shaft is compared to it's size will help the blades accelerate more quickly, which helps to reduce turbo lag.
Ceramic Turbine Blades-Ceramic turbine blades are lighter than the steel blades used in most turbochargers. Again, this allows the turbine to spin up to speed faster, which reduces turbo lag. The down side is that a ceramic turbine is significantly more prone to shattering. Twin Turbo This type of set up uses two turbochargers instead of one. Some of these are often known as a sequential turbo set up. One turbo is smaller, which accelerates quickly in lower rpms, and the larger turbo will take over to produce boost at higher rpm's. Sequential set ups do not always use one very small turbo, and one very large turbo. Sometimes the only difference is one turbo is clipped, or they have different trim levels. Although not all twin turbo set ups are sequential. Some use two identical turbochargers just for the added boost.

Boost Lag One of the largest downsides of having a turbocharger is boost lag. That means when you step on the gas, the turbo is not instantly creating power. The turbine must speed up to higher rpm's before it starts to create boost. One way to reduce this is to make sure your exhaust flows very well. You can also get properly sized piping.

Properly Sized Piping Each turbocharger and intercooler use a certain amount of air, you should always try to set up a close ratio of each. One way you have to do this is to have piping that is properly sized. If your pipes are too large, you will have more boost lag because the turbo cannot build the pressure up as quickly. The smaller piping will reduce boost lag, and increase velocity. The problem with smaller piping is that it can choke the engine. You must research this and find a nice medium. The largest concern with the piping is the length. A one by one inch pipe will flow thousands of cfm, but if it's 12 inches long it will only flow a few hundred at most. For the intercooler piping, in general most people use piping that’s 25% larger than your compressor output. One of the largest limitations is the throttle body, make sure the throttle body can keep up with amount of air flowing into the engine.

Clipping the Turbo Charger Clipping the blades on a turbo will allow air to flow through the blades easier, in turn it increases the breathing of the turbo. This means two things, the turbo will breathe into higher rpms, but it will have more boost lag.

Picking the right turbo Picking the right turbo makes is probably the biggest difference in the way you want your turbocharger set up to work, and how it will actually work. The smaller turbochargers boost up quicker, since there is lass mass there and consumes less air. But, a smaller turbocharger will not make the mass gains in the higher rpm's like a larger turbocharger would. The smaller the turbo, the less boost it makes. The less boost it makes compared to it's potential, the less strain. You have to figure out the proper sized turbo for your car. Remember, sometimes a smaller turbo is not a good choice. The smaller the exhaust side is, the more backpressure there is, which causes more stress on the engine internals. Also, because of the added back pressure there is more heat on the motor. Take in to account how fast you would like to boost, how much power you want to have, if this will be a street set up or a race only car, and your budget. Make sure you consult with someone to this if you do not understand the different trims and turbos, and how they would work with your engine.

Here is list of pretty much everything you will need to have a full turbocharger set up ready to install. I got all of this information from Raf (FRCFD6 on probetalk.com, a turbo God, and a FI Moderator at probetalk.com)

Collector pipe: pipe that merges front and rear exhaust manifolds and feeds into turbocharger
Turbocharger
Wastegate
Intercooler
Intercooler piping: from turbocharger to IC, from IC to VAF
Blow off valve or compressor bypass valve
Silicone couplers and clamps for intercooler piping
Down pipe: pipe expelling exhaust from turbocharger to cat
Oil lines: Feed line, -4AN; Drain line, at least 1/2”
Tapped oil pan: preferably have a ½” female fitting onto the pan
Oil drain flange/gasket: flange that bolts to turbocharger oil drain outlet
FMU: rising rate fuel pressure regulator used to increase fuel pressure according to boost levels
Spare fuel high-pressure hose/clamps: factory size used to connect FMU
Fuel pump: Preferably a 255lph Walbro in-tank pump. Less desirables are the Walbro 190lph and any in-line fuel pump
Vacuum lines, vacuum block/several T’s
O2 sensor bungs (if you replace the log-manifolds with header primaries)

Now here's a basic list of the tools required for a installation.

Piping in a variety of sizes, including elbows, U bends, and straight sections
Chop saw for cutting pipes
Welder for exhaust piping and flanges
Drill with large drill bits for drilling out waste gate, o2 sensor, and blow off valve flange holes
Couplers and clamps for IC piping, oil drain, and fuel lines
Standard and metric sockets, variety of wrench sizes, and standard wrenches
Large scale cutting tools for cutting through front wall and modifying front bumper. (Sawzall, etc)
Other miscellaneous automotive tools for removing and installing basic components

Information on turbo parts

Waste Gate-The waste gate is a valve basically, it senses the boost level and if it is too high, the waste gate will open and allow some of the excess air through and bypass the turbine, which in turn will slow the blades down. If it senses it does not have proper boost the waste gate stays closed and no air is bypassed. The waste gate can be either an internal or external. You must make sure the waste gate is large enough to support any extra air that may be bypassed.

The Intercooler-The intercooler is there for one real reason. To cool down the air that goes through the turbocharger. The colder the air is, the denser it is. The denser the air is, the more oxygen there is. An intercooler, like a turbocharger, must be properly sized. The larger the intercooler is, the most time it takes to fill and get air to the turbocharger. When looking into which intercooler to use, try to find out how much air flows through that intercooler so you can achieve a nice ratio between that and the air flow of the turbocharger. Also consider how much pressure is lost by each intercooler. If it takes your

turbocharger a long time to build up pressure because of the intercooler, you will get along nicely with boost lag. The thicker the core, the less air flow to the cooling system. There are also two basic types, the air to water and the air to air. Air to Water intercoolers are more common at tracks because they are more efficient until the water they use hits ambient temperate, then they drastically loose efficiency. Air to air is far more common, and stays just about as effective throughout most of the time. If you really want to drag race, spray your intercooler with a fire extinguisher right before you line up at the track. If you have an air to water, you can put ice in your water reservoir.

Porting-Porting a turbochargers flanges, and any other items that will help air reach the turbine faster will help beautifully with the performance of your car. By porting these parts, the air flows more freely and achieves a higher velocity. It also allows more air to pass through the piping at the same time. You really should not port the housings because the blades are made with a certain clearance from the housing, if you port the housing you change that clearance and pressurized air can revert and slow up turbine considerably plus the reverting air will build up a considerable amount of heat.

Polishing-Do you have that much money? Expect to spend a a few grand more by doing this apparel mod. Not my style.

The Blow Off Valve-The infamous blow off valve, this works by releasing the air the turbo just compressed, so that it doesn't push against the spinning blades, when you let off the gas. You must tune your blow off valve properly to achieve that lovely whistle. This basically works the same way as a bypass valve.
To hear some of the bypass and blow off valves on the market: Sounds

Down pipe-You can increase the size to improve performance by allowing more air to pass through, and for the money this is one of the better modifications. to do.