Backpacking The Continental Divide Trail
(Part 2 -1997)

I had a very enjoyable hike this year. I started at the CDT's Northern end, Glacier National Park, Montana.

I arrived at the park by traveling on Greyhound bus to Shelby, MT, taking AMTRACK from there, to East Glacier. Stayed at the AYH, then took a "Jammer" (Expensive, $47 US one way) bus from Glacier Park Lodge to Prince Edward Lodge, Canada.

This year, the park started a reservation system, for the backcountry campsites, 50% of them can be reserved. However, there's some restrictions, campsites closed because of snow, etc. If you plan on hiking thru the park, make reservations early! In '98, the park will start charging $4 a day to hike.

I was rerouted from Goat Haunt thru Mokwanis Junction, too Belly River. Then, to Elizabeth Lake, onto Many Glacier. If you are in the backcountry more than six nights, you must renew your permit. Also, to be a continuous hike, you can only cross the Going-to-the-Sun road at Siyeh Bend crossing. After the road, followed the CDT into East Glacier.

This was my first time to visit the park. In July, it was still chilly at night, but pleasant temps during the day. Didn't get any rain while in the park. The scenery was spectacular. Did run into some snow patches. Saw some griz tracks, but no bears. At this latitude, the sun sets between 9:00 - 10:00 PM, there's many daylight hours to hike.

Picked up my care package at East Glacier, and headed off to the Bob Marshall Wilderness. (Note: If you need a phone, there's one at Maris Pass, at the Roosevelt Memorial) I pack a pair of beach sandals, for lounging in camp, and fording streams. Wore them for quite a distance, as there's many fords, on the South Fork Two Medicine River. It's shallow though, no problems fording it. Talked to the Rangers at the Badger Ranger Station, they almost have a high route completed, to cutdown on the fords.

At Beaver Lake, I cut across its north side. It's somewhat marshy, but you'll meet the trail on the East Side. There is no CDT markers. The trail starts uphill, going north, just keep bearing to the right at any junctions, you will get to Bager Pass. From the pass, it's downhill all the way to the trail junction of 161, 155 and 324.

I followed trail 160 (Clack Creek) to Gooseberry RS, and 241 to Switchback Pass. A severe thunderstorm started in the afternoon, I spent the night on the Gooseberry RS porch (No one was there). A steep switchback is on the 160 trail. Had a little trouble getting up it. It was still raining, and a horse train had made the trail quite muddy and slick. Once on top though, you have a wonderful view of Pentagon Mtn.

2 to 3 miles up to Spotted Bear Pass was overgrown, but well worth going thru, to get to a view of the Chinese Wall. Meet a couple going northbound here, forgot their names, they gave me a water bottle, to replace one I lost.The CDT runs along its east side, for about 10 miles. The wall is stunning, I even saw a herd of Elk in the valley. After climbing out of the valley by Cliff Mtn, it's a pleasant hike all the way to the Benchmark Ranch. (Note: There is no trail junction marker were 175 and 203 trails meet. As you come down a mtn, just bear left.) About ten miles north of Benchmark is a quite popular area, saw a lot of campers.

Stopping at a log cabin, at the north end of the airstrip, I wanted to verify the ranch was down the road. The guy that owned the cabin invited me in, and fed me a great breakfast! The owner of Benchmark was there. We drove down to his place, I got my resupply box, and took a hot shower. Leaving the ranch, I entered the Scapegoat Wilderness. Further down the CDT, it's a 2 1/2 mile climb up trail 209, to the Divide. I decided to head toward Heart Lake, then picking up trails to take me right into Lincoln.

Getting to the Lincoln post office, picked up my box, signed the CDT register, then went and stuffed my face with good chow! Did laundry, and ate again! Stayed in the town campground that night, ate a good breakfast the next morn, before heading back to the CDT.

Top

Made a mistake of not refilling my water bottles, south of Stemple Pass. The creek next to the road was full of cow pies. Should have climbed upstream and got H2O, as there's no close water until Dana Spring. (Note: The Forest map is marked wrong for trails 440 and 497. I spent an hour looking for 440. You have to go up 497 about a 1/2 a mile to get to 440.) Meet a northbound hiker, Bruce Foster, right on a mountain top, so we chatted awhile.

The day was very hot, and I did a lot of climbing. Got to a open treeless ridge, about out of water. Lucky for me, there was snowpack there. One problem, it was on a steep ledge below the trail. Stringing my water bottles and cooking pot together, I scooted, my back on the ground, slowly down to the snowpack. Using the pot lid, scooped snow into the bottles. Reaching for the pot, I touched it, and it went sliding over the edge! There just was no way to retrieve it. Went without cooking for several days. Some trail magic happened though.

After leaving Dana Spring, at Roundtop Mtn, I meet a group of Montana Wildlife Federal Volunteers. One of them, Mr.Bill Ousell, said he would get me a pot, and to pick it up at Frontier Town, at McDonald Pass. Sure enough, while I was feeding my face at the restaurant there, he drove up, and gave me a perfect hiking pot! Thank you!

From Bison Mtn, I followed the Continental Divide, towards Thunderbolt Mtn. Passed Cottonwood Lake and Electric Mtn. After that mountain, I either lost the trail, or there is none. XC'd to the ghost town of Leadville, then to Cold Spring. From there followed FS road 1516 to Champion Pass. Taking Ray Jardines advice (author of the CDT Pocket Planner), I headed west from the pass, toward Warm Springs (good goodies!) and Anaconda.

Piced up my care package, and spent a nice day in Anaconda, leaving late in the afternoon. Took highway 1 east, to Mill Creek Road (274), following it to the Mule Ranch, picking up the CDT here.

My worst days on the CDT were from north of Page Lake, to past Cutaway Pass. It was very heavy rain for the whole distance. (Note: watch for the cutoff to Page Lake, off of trail 39! It was blocked by a fallen pine, I missed it in the downpour, and had to backtrack about three miles.)

Just before Suprise Lake, I started passing a lot of blood in my urine. My next food drop was Gibbonsville, ID. If the problem didn't clear up by the time I reached there, I knew I'd have to get some type of medicine. From Suprise Lake, I kept following trail 9 towards Gibbons Pass.

Arriving at Gibbons Pass, I meet Mr. Paul Adams. He was under contract with the Forest Service, to construct a mile of CDT, at the pass. (It cuts off about two miles of walking Gibbons Rd.) When I arrived, he had just finished, and was awaiting final inspection. He was from Missoula, and going back there that day. I still had my problem, and he offered me a ride to Missoula, a place to stay with shower! Trail magic! I decided to take his offer, as I didn't know if I could get any medicine in Gibbonsville, and any public transportation is a long way from there.

I was out of the woods, and in Missoula by early evening! Went to a drug store, and got some medicine. I took a bus early the next morning, for home.

My intention had been to hike to Mack's Inn, but hiked between 450 - 500 miles, and really enjoyed it. I used Jim Wolfe, and Ray Jardines's guidebooks, and Forest Service maps. For anyone hiking the CDT long distance, I recommend using these guides.

Continued in '98.........


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