Training for Power

Power denotes the ability of an athlete to overcome resistance by contracting the muscles at high speed. As already noted, it is used mainly in dynamic climbing. It is interesting to note that excessive maximum strength training actually reduces a climber's power.

Maximum strength is the determinant of power, but in training process, high maximum strength is associated with reduced speed of movement because of the extremely high additional loads it places on the body. This is why it is recommended that these two aspects of strength should be developed alternately. In neither case should training give rise to excessive fatigue, since that would prevent the central nervous system being stimulated.

Any training intended to improve a climber's power should be preceded by a maximum strength test, which measures the maximum force an athlete exerts in an exercise that he can perform just once by expanding all his strength. The result of the maximum strength test provides the basis for determining the training load.

The following method can be used to improve power once a high maximum strength has been achieved:

Sets of explosive exercises requiring 30 to 50 per cent of maximum strength should be repeated six to ten times. The pause between each set should be two to five minutes, while the number of sets per training session and exercise should be between four to six.

It is even possible to simulate something close to power training during an actual climbing session. A climber can use techniques he has already mastered well and that are suitable for making rapid moves on the rock face. The main phase of the move should therefore be as explosive as possible.

During this phase, the muscles involved are subjected to extremely high loads. So you should always warm up properly with stretching exercises and should never embark on power training when tired. This means that such training should never be preceded either by maximum strength or endurance training.