Maximum strength is the maximum force a muscle can exert at any one time. The form of training best suited to improving maximum strength involves high to maximum muscle tension combined with relatively long duration for each individual contraction.

A distinction is made between, on the one hand, absolute and relative strength (i.e. strength as a function of body weight) and, on the other, three different kinds of work done by the muscles, all of which occur regularly in rock climbing: Concentric contraction, Eccentric contraction and Isometric contraction.

Concentric and Eccentric contractions are also known as dynamic work. The best way of exercising the muscles for dynamic work is through so-called Pyramid training. Once the maximum strength has been established, the following exercise schedule should be completed:

The pauses between the sets of repetitions should not be less than two minutes. When changing over to another exercise or to another piece of equipment, the break should be between three to five minutes.

It is important when training for maximum strength, and particularly so for climbers, not to spend too much time on exercises requiring less than 80 per cent of maximum strength, since this leads to an increase in muscle mass and therefore body weight.

With exercises requiring more than 80 per cent of maximum strength, on the other hand, the increased strength manifests itself rather in improved neuromuscular coordination, which is beneficial to the development of the relative strength that is so important to climbers.

Strength training particularly in the sub-maximal and maximal regions and when using free weights, should be done with a partner to support and, if necessary, assist you.

Isometric capacity is important to the climber in all situations in which he is not moving upwards but gripping a handhold, holding the body in a particular position in order to survey the rock ahead of him for holds, etc.

Isometric exercise involves an increase in muscle tension without any lengthening or shortening of the muscle. This is best done by applying pressure against stable resistance, with the joints bent various angles, with 80 to 100 per cent of maximum contractility being used and each contraction lasting between 5 and ten seconds.

The maximum force a muscle can exert can be increased only by making it bear additional weight. That additional weight can be provided either by metal discs attached to long or short dumb-bells or by so-called "multigyms", as found in fitness centres and gyms.

During the exercises, for a Concentric contraction, breathe out, and for an Eccentric contraction, breathe in.