Grit E7 6c moves, with serious injury potential. E7's on grit are created entirely after toproping (even Master's Edge), though the number of on-sights are creeping up, probably about 7 currently.

The E7s
SAFE but technical	Jumpin' On A Beetle E7 6c Black Rocks Solo. Once over the gutter, step left and make one delicate step up to the arete. Spotters advised. It only just fits into the 'safe' category, but is low in the grade. KP Nuts E7 6c Roaches, Lower Tier Solo. Strange bouldery route from Nadin, taking the bulging wall left of Ascent of Man. Safe with good spotting team, and gear in the break. Unrepeated? Chocolate Girl E7 6c Wilton One Despite the New Lancs. guide stating there are four pegs there are actually only two (the first two mentioned - although the first one of them looks old, and could even be from the aid days of 1969!). The second peg looks good and protects the crux, not a 'wild slap' if you use the footholds! Friend 2 or Quadcam 2 provide sanity afterwards. F7c/7c+ The Salmon E7 6c Bamford Recently re-climbed and upgraded by Dawes after a 'crucial' pebble disappeared, this is low in the grade at E7, but only because of the fallout zone. Good gear in break just above half height (F2-3s) followed by hard friction moves with HUGE fall potential to worry about on the final hard moves going right to pockets and the top. The best route of its type on gritstone. Many variations have sprung up around this routes recently: see here for descriptions. Not sure whether Dawes' line has been repeated. F7b Climber: Matt Gallagher Cock Robin E7 6c/7a Froggatt Takes the overhang and slab just to the right of Strapadictomy with gear in that route. One hideous mantel on the hanging block since the slab above it offers no handholds. Possibly easier for those with short legs. Back-rope useful to prevent a painful encounter with the lower arete. F7c Crack And Slab E7 7a Curbar A new route from John Arran, giving Moon Crack a direct finish via an impossibly hard mantel onto the top slab. Gear in the wide break at the top of the crack. Unrepeated? Fast Forward E7 6c/7a Ilkley Somewhat of an eliminate but well protected and interestingly slopey! Climbs the scoop and hideous finish at the far right-hand end of the Cow. Strappotente E7 7a Froggatt The overhang and brief slab right of Cock Robin. Solo up to the lip (gear) "before an extremely powerful roll-over and pebble pull to finish. Independent of other up routes too. " [Seb Grieve]. Reachy. Unrepeated? Groove Is In The Heart E7 7a Stanage The obvious central groove right of Stanage Without Oxygen. Small RPs in the break protect hard moves over the bulge on crimps and slopers - looks deceptively easy. F8a? Warm Love E7 7b Cowperstone Dawes esoteria: the direct finish to Snug... involves a dynamic throw for a heel smear to reach the pebble. Brilliant! Unrepeated? Little Women E7 7a Stanage The blunt, hanging arete just right of Stanage Without Oxygen on alarmingly non-existant holds. At least I think it's safe ... well, let's hope so, eh? Unrepeated? Happy Hart E7 7a? Curbar Ahead of its time (climbed by Dr John Hart in 1987). Protected by high side-runners in Scroach (which, incidentally, is more like E4 than E2) the thin seam is attacked via desperate (read impossible) moves. A side-rope would probably be a good idea to reduce the swing. F8a at least to top-rope. Unrepeated?
SAFE but sustained	Fat Slapper E7 6c Eastwood Rocks Big roof climb but with reasonable holds and protection, just a long way between them! Crux slap around lip finishes what is likely to become an obscure gem, especially as climbing at Eastwood Rocks is banned. Unrepeated? Beau Geste E7 6c Froggatt Rightly restored to its proper grade. The epitome of a grit 6c move, harder than it was since the demise of half the pebble. Small RPs (2 and 3) in groove, 2 Friend 2.5s in break on right, crucial Rock 1 or RP3 (better) in crack after crux, if you can place it. (To place this is certainly the crux move of the route, being harder than the pebble move, unless you know the cunning trick!) Two belayers required to reduce swing around arete. Top arete solid 6b, with cunning toe-hook move. Just don't stand on what's left of the pebble! John Redhead is rumoured to have been spat off the crux on-sight, before it was done by Johnny Woodward. The first ascent by Woodward probably had less pre-practise than most of the subsequent repeats. Still not been on-sighted. F7b+ 1st ascent report from Climber May '82 Sad Amongst Friends E7 6c/7a Stanage Ok gear exists in this power-fest that is certainly easier for the short (6c). A F0 on the right might protect the cramped shuffle left in the second break to under the top roof, but probably better to have a big team of burly spotters. Friends 1 and 1.5 protect the desperate mantle finish. Unrepeated until relatively recently - funny one that considering it's been the cover of The Bible. F7c in 6 metres. Has been flashed! Master's Edge E7 6b Millstone Only enters the safe category due to the protection in the shot holes at half height, which is either narrow Aliens or the original Amigos. Wolfgang Güllich placed the gear on-sight, fell onto it and lowered off. All his mates hung on the rope to test it and then Güllich ripped it falling off on his second try and broke his back. (Incidently, the first route he did afterwards was Separate Reality in the US - solo!). A great line and the first grit E7. It features continuously hard lay-backing to a final lunge for the jug at the top. F7b+ Balance It Is E7 6b/c Burbage South Superb left arete of the Yoghurt buttress from the top crack of Boggart Left-Hand. A long reach left to the arete sets you up for sustained left-hand slapping - get your skin up to the job with brillo-pad training. No single move is easier than 6b. A pocket near the top offers an RP4 placement or a hold for two fingertips - your choice! "A good sport route" [Seb Grieve, after his ascent] F7c. White Lines E7 6b Curbar An unsung gem from Dawes, unrepeated until the late 90s. Traverse in from the left or make a 6c boulder problem start on the right to gain the line of flakes. A lot of crimpy, technical moves bring a final, worrying mantelshelf for the break, and some welcome gear (F4). Finish off with exciting 6a moves over the capping roof, not thinking about the poor gear in the back of the roof. Friend 1-ish useful in the lip of overhang. F7c Ray's Roof E7 6c (ungradable) Baldstones A simple crack climb? Certainly an anomaly when Ray Jardine brought his prototype Friends to the UK and climbed it after four days of effort, grading it 5.11 (E4) in the 1970s. For comparison, he climbed Ramshaw Crack in about 30 seconds. It then remained unrepeated until Leicester boy Steve Allan made it his obsession and finally claimed the 2nd ascent. Since then many notables have failed on it until Chris Plant got in a 3rd ascent while it wasn't looking. Begs the question - is it only E6? Rodney Mullen E7 6c Ilkley Rocky Valley Very hard but short arete climb from Saun Myles. It's been climbed in the best of styles now so we can forget all about a preplaced peg and enjoy the climbing! One peg (definately not preclipped - sorry Saun) protects the dynamic climbing. F8a The Bottom Line E7 6c Brimham A strange contribution from Dave Pegg. Takes the outrageous overhanging 'bums' on Cubic Block. Probably not a single positive hold on the whole route. Protected by friends and small in situ thread. Very much F8a. Gigantic E7 6c Wilton One Not the most attractive of venues, but an important route as it is a good one for hot summers. Free-climbs an old aid route, up a thin crack in a hanging prow. Can also be finishedup the arete instead of reaching into Adrenalin at the same grade. Fierce and technical. F8a/8a+ The Screaming Dream E7 7a Froggatt Shortest E7 in the world? Well, outside of Wales maybe. Pure power lay-backing and slap for sloping top. Nearly flashed by Ben Moon who fell off the initial moves ('when 5c is easy and 5b is approaching a rest'). Only fell to Mark Leach after his historic 50 day plus seige, but that was the first ascent. F8a+
BOLD and technical	Hairlip or Balding E6/7 6b Froggatt An eliminate through the graffiti scar just left of Hairless Heart, basically using that route's footholds as handholds. Skyhook runner on the ledge might protect what boils down to two moves. F7a Three Blind Mice E6/7 6c Burbage North Solo, though you can get a good Rock'n'Roller 1 in before the crux (might make it E6), and a good RP3 after. Just sneeking into the Bold category, this offering from Dave Pegg climbs the awkward bulge and slab right of Long Tall Sally, via a multitude of methods, spoiled by proximity of the filth crack. F7a+ Perimiter Walk E7 6b Wilton 1 Solo. Crux is right at the top: a high rockover to a good side pull and easier ground. F6c? Jasmine E7 6c Bamford Solo. Ron Fawcett's last big new route (Traverse of Stanage excepting) taking the technical steeper side of Wrinkled Wall via some deceptively steep crimping. Landing is not good, but the overall position is excellent. Kaluza Klein E7ish 6c Robin Hood's Stride Friends in the break and heavier, fast belayer should protect the crux, a long reach for poor flutings off a slippy smear. Only E6 for the very tall, but desperate for the very short! Dawes thought it was E8, afterall. Perhaps you should take an E grade off (start at E8) for every 2 inches above 5'4" you are...? Has been on-sighted by Adam Long. Hard F7a+ on average Climber: Julian Webb © J.Webb Shining Path E7 6c Roaches Mark Katz route up the slab to the left of Private Display. Thin smearing. Anymore details? Perimeter Walk E7 6b Wilton One Solo. Fingery climbing up a blank looking wall. Climb the centre of the wall until within a few feet of the top, crux. Undercut in left hand crimp in right,left leg very high, and rock over to a good side pull. Monopoly E7 6b Millstone Two tech. 6b moves (second one is a high rockover - crux), possible skyhook placement on a flat pocket (becoming damaged - no more drop testing!). Remember - tied down skyhooks are cheating, weight them if you must. Ben Heason didn't need them, he soloed this on-sight. F7a+ Monoethism E7 6b/c Gardoms The wall and overlap between Moyer's Buttress and Stormbringer. Large nuts or Friends in the back of the roof sparingly protect the overhang but not a nasty crash into the slab below. Dangerous Crocodile Snogging E7 6b Ramshaw Weird! Roll into the 'mouth' below the fin of Clipperty Clop... (LARGE Friend) and use this to get established on the LH wall, from where a commiting slap for the slopey top and some extreme scrabbling ensures victory. F7a+/7b and weird. Climber: Mark Sharratt © M.Sharrat Agadoo E7 6c Leashaw brow ("Where?" I hear you cry) An obscure, odd little find. Not sure where it goes but "gear in crack on left and poor RP on right. hard roof on slopers, no gear. (RP1 would be desperate to place on lead). F7b" [Tom de Gay, Apr '01] Shock Of The New E7 6c Kinder The roof of Chinese Wall. Poor gear in the break, from flake under roof pull round on slopers and go for the break. Reminicent of Shine On without the pockets. F7b+ Path Of The Righteous Man E7 6c Robin Hood's Stride Solo, now the only gear placement has fallen off! Three or four tricky moves above a bad landing: it's a good idea to wear jeans so you can grip the arete with your knees. More independant than it looks. F7a+ Wise Guys E7 6b/c Ilkley Solo, but can take a tied-down skyhook. Excellent moves on undercuts and smears lead up the groove. Crux at half height. Rumoured to have been 'done years ago' (youth, presumably). Logical Progression E7 6c Lower Tier, Roaches Takes the hanging lower arete just right of Headless Horseman via a very hard traverse from the right to the obvious pockets (crux) and a lovely balancy move to stand up in them. The arete above is much easier. Good Friends under the roof protect the crux (back-rope useful) while a very poor Friend 1.5 in the right-hand pocket serves the rest. F7b+ Mount Vinson E7 6c Stanworth Quarry, Lancs. While some of the flakeline this route climbs broke off (fresh scar visible Aug '99), it is still the same grade. E7 6c. Only a little broke off, and the gear still doesn't protect the high-up crux! Marrow Bone Jelly E7 6c Caley For a long time a ground-up Al Manson project, until he top-roped it! Sustained friction arete climb with the landing just too far to get away with. Ankle-breaker if you land well, though it was first done with a side-runner in Adrenalin Rush, unfortunately the one that pops out. Tech crux low down but psychological crux is a high rock-over near the top. F7c One Chromosome's Missing E7 6b Harston Rocks, Staffs. Odd, old Nick Dixon route which was certainly one of the first E7s on grit. Has apparently been on-sight soloed by Ben Tetler - is he mad? He obviously forgot to place a bombproof R3 in a mono, before the crux, from a hands-off rest. A Place To Be E7 6b Rylstone Mega solo. Takes the rib left of Heartbeat City. Somewhat of a death landing, but awesome moves. F7a+.Has been on-sighted Bud E7 6c Froggatt The leaning left arete of the slender buttress just right of Sandy Crack was climbed by Andy Popp some time ago, but never written up. Very technical and bold up to a nasty slap for the obvious jug (RPs in crack on the right - could be better!). From here one of the weirdest moves on grit enables you to stand on it and romp to the top. F7b+/7c Avoiding The Traitors E7 6c Bamford Roof problem right of M35 via obvious bowl in the roof and flared twin runnels above. Gear is at the back of the roof, but the nasty ledge below is closer! Crux is not falling off when you inevitably cut loose. The Braille Trail E7 6c Burbage South Protection - small friend in low break, hand placed pegs and a 6" nail! Hard move to gain arete and the most exposed gritstone rest (but see Appointment With Fear for exposure!) and balancy rock-up into crack, which is a lot easier to do if you don't climb it as Dawes does in Stone Monkey. The protection has been tested by an assortment of foreigners (see Hard Grit), but I think it still fits into this category. F7b Climber: Readza © P.Curtis Dreadnaught E7 7a Stanage Same F0.5s as for Scarpa Flow just about protect the desperate pull over onto the slab, using obligatory slopey holds. Mike Lea (first ascensionist) found the next move, a dyno off a pebble for a small crimp, to be the crux. However, unfortunately for Mike, if you're over 6' it's a lot easier at 5c! But then you'll probably find the pull round the lip impossible ... serves you right for being tall. F7b+ish Black Car Burning E7 6c Stanage Climbs just to the right of the groove of Groove Is In The Heart to gain an obvious hold in the hanging scoop. The RPs on Groove ... may help a little, but probably won't do you much good. The Possessed E7 6b Wimberry More Pegg madness up the thin crack and thin scoop right of Blue Lights Crack. RPs in the crack prove fairly useless for the crux friction moves leaving the scoop. Dave was rescued off before he finally led it. Has now seen a few repeats and is said to be "quite easy". It Hurts E7 7a Wilderness Rocks Takes the wall right of Sans Pic Arete via a hard move for a slopey crimp and a big dyno for another sloper (crux). F2 in break on left, RP0 and R3+4 in oppo on the right - all pretty poor apparently. Living In Oxford E7 7a Burbage North The last of Dawes's 1980s grit routes to be repeated, mainly because of the loss of a hold. Climb the arete on the right using undercuts and kneebars before rocking over on the slopey ledge. A cam on the arete (very low) and some wires just to the right protect. F7c+ Unfamiliar E7 6c Stanage Brilliant arete, with obvious holds and desperate moves between them. Looks a lot easier than it is. Was a ground-up Dawes project for many years. Gear at two thirds height after crux, unfortunately. F7c+ MaDMAn E7 6b Wimberry Solo. This subtly titled Dave Pegg route takes the huge blunt arete right of Trident to very sloping notch where it goes left and joins Trident. Thin, exposed and relying on a lot of pebble moves. Throw in a rest stance to get completely psyched out on and you have a full-on top-end grit E7 experience - utter terror! Recently lost pebbles (only one left now!) and possibly E8. Unrepeated?
BOLD and sustained	Stretch Armstrong E7 6b Curbar Takes the front face of the Figit block, and is essentially a reachy, bold direct start to Instant Karma. It's not entirely clear how independent these routes are under the main roof. If you climb the arête all the way, it's about E5 6a. It may be possible to get a cam in on the right under the roof; nut runner in lip. Climber: Pete Hurley © A.Lincoln Feeding The Pony E6/7 6c Black Rocks Four 6c moves in a row, on the slab right of Lean Man's Climb, which holds a Hex 11 which itself may not prevent deck out from slopy top. Awesome moves (kneebar your forearm for a rest!) The Driven Bow E7 6c Hen Cloud The crack and rippled wall between Bitching and Solid Geometry. Once started, escape to either side is harder than pressing on. Fingery and sequential: Offset Friend 1 at the highest placement in the crack, but is too low for comfort when higher up. Email me for full beta! F7b Climber: Readza © N.Grimes The Young Pretender E7 6c Hen Cloud Solo. Ahem. Not the stunning LGP, this is further right and down. Takes a inconspicuous short vertical arete, with an uncomfortable landing. A cheval thrutching, via some reachy slopey moves and a sharp crimp. Ground is close but unpredictable landing. F7c. Strangeness E7 6c Caley Solo. Very extended bouldering from fireman Steve Rhodes. Superb cranking on slopers to good monos above a flat landing: low runners exist but the last person to test them ended up in hospital. Has been on-sighted. F7b Paralogism E7 6c Upper Tier, Roaches Nadin roof climb from the mid-80's. Gear protects the start of the roof but by the time the lip comes you're on your own. Snap Decision E7 6c Ilkley Hard bridging problem protected by poor pegs, though the lower one has been body-tested courtesy of Adam Lincoln - cheers Adam! Has been on-sighted by both Ian Vickers and Seb/Dave/Seb Grieve. Deathwatch E7 6b Ilkley Solo. Crimpy wall climb, with sloping landing but far away for the crux out-of-control cross-through lunge. Has been on-sighted. F6c+ B4 XS E7 6b Hen Cloud Tough, reachy and rounded arete. Gear low down, but a very fast belayer might stop you hitting the floor. Easy 6b for the tall. End of the Affair for the E7 leader. It might be possible to put a small sling on the nubbin, but whether it would hold it a different matter! F7a Pair O'Genes E7 6c Harston Rocks A quality climb, though not quite the super-route it could have been. Hard moves on mono and slopers lead to the Weetabix-like thread. Crimp up the wall just left of DNA (6a/b) trying not to look at the original 7a line to the left. Bad landing with out a mat, though both this and the thread have been tested! F7b Chocolate Swastika E7 6c Hallam view butress "This really is an exceptional route, but no-one believes me. Oh well... tiny undercut, 6c move slapping between slopers, then two 6b moves, gaston, pebble, break, gear, 5c to top. Landing used to have a big spiky boulder, but someone has (sensibly) moved it. Put it back for the full tick. 7b+" [Tom De Gay, Apr '01] Gecko Blaster E7 6c Shining Cliff Solo. The LGP on Youth Hostel Wall. Tough but brilliant moves lead to the undercut and the crux: pulling round on small crimps. Finish sketchily up the slab above. F7b+/7c Appointment With Fear E7 6b Wimberry Climbs an amazing fin-cum-prow-like arete, without clipping the very old bolts under the roof. Very old bolt en route while an RP1 is useful. Exposed to say the least. However, word reaches me that the traverse out isn't harder than 5c, and the rest 6a? Impressive none-the-less. Rumoured to have been onsighted Dharma E7 6c Duke's Quarry A stunning line when dry. E4 6a to half height and a hands-off rest (3 PRs). A hard move by gear then press on up the rampline, with improving holds. A skyhook after the hard bit, and peg in final crack. Dawes flashed the first ascent! F7c(+) Mind Bomb E7 6b/c Earl Crag Solo, though a 'washing line' can be fashioned with tension between gear adjacent to the ledge. A cold day really makes a difference: "easy static 6b+" Black Mountain Collage E7 6b Ravenstones Superb Andy Popp route in the remote Chew Valley. From the top of the initial crack of Pulpit Ridge (and the last gear), make a few moves up and a tricky move right on a sloper. More sustained padding leads to welcome salvation. The remote setting of this route surely increases its seriousness and stands as a counterpoint to the 'convenience danger' of the eastern edges. F7a Mindbridge E7 6c Hen Cloud Gear, at below mid-height unfortunately, protects hard moves up spaced pockets, but is redundant for the insecure moves up the slopey fluting. Very dirty and very unrepeated. F7b+?

© J.Read '02