Technical and scary (but relatively safe) Epiphany LH is an E6 6b arete, first climbed by Phil Burke in the early 1980s. It had been graded originally at E4 6a, but it's thought that is for if you climb on the right-hand side of the arete. Or maybe Burke was just brilliant, and couldn't grade? Or perhaps we've all gone soft?. I have always looked at it and was sceptical; "E4???" Nick Dixon was perhaps the first person to climb it on the the left-hand side, while Ben Heason recently added a direct start, during an on-sight solo of the route. I bet he doesn't think it's E4! Ken Wilson was here that night, and as well as being incredibly entheusiastic about the whole thing, he did castigate me for not putting side-runners in. Funny old world, innit? Photo: Elisabeth Lester