Directions:

The Wenatchees are a huge region of granite W/SW of Leavenworth. Mt. Stuart: Fr Leavenworth, follow Icicle Creek Canyon Rd 8.5 mi to Stuart Lakes Trail at Bridge Creek CG. Turn L on Eightmile Rd for 4 mi to Stuart Lakes Trail. Hike S/SW for ~5 mi for Mt. Stuart / Dragontail climbs. Also accessible via Jack Creek off Icicle Canyon or Ingalls Creek off Hwy 97 (both with longer approach time). Cashmere Crags encompass a broad backcountry area of innumerable, polished, granite spires ranging from Icicle Creek on the North, Mill Creek on E, Ingalls Creek on S, and Snow Creek Glaciers on W. Several access points. Obtain area maps.

Notes:

The Wenatchees are generally known as a more arid range of the Pacific Mountains and hence generally drier weather for rock climbers. Mount Stuart is a renowned alpine classic and the second highest granitic peak in the state at 9415'. Nearby Dragontail Peak's Backbone Ridge offers a classic IV 5.9 route. But, "draggin' tail" here could result in a "lightning bolt" from the top.

Classics:

Mount Stuart- N Ridge IV 6 (big wall), Dir N Ridge 8; Dragontail Peak- Serpentine Arete 8, Backbone Ridge IV 5.9, Prusik Peak - W Ridge, S Face II 9; Cashmere Crags

References:

AAJ ['89-141, 89-128, 84, 77, 68, 66, 63, 60, 51, 49], C [132, 125(4/91)-74, Mntnr ['70, 67], Su [7/84, 7/70, 11/67]; Challenge of the North Cascades by Fred Beckey; Guidebook(s): Nelson/Potterfield's Selected Climbs in the Cascades, Fifty Classic Climbs, Beckey's Cascade Alpine Guide (Columbia R)