Japan
part of the On the Road travelogue
Japan is simply a fantastic place to visit. The culture is unique,
ingrained, and fascinating. The people are generally very friendly,
and the food is excellent! The spoken language is easy to pronounce
(phoenetic, like Spanish), and you can sometimes get enough accomplished
by just deciphering the written alphabets (there are two!). In addition,
many people know at least a little English. The train
system is truly fantastic. Oh, and did I mention the food?
Yuki
During our two weeks in Japan we stayed in Yuki, a small sub-suburb of
Tokyo. Jason has a high school friend who is living there on the
JET program (teaching English to students). Derek
was incredibly gracious to host us, even though his apartment is authenitically
Japanese (aka small). It's two rooms: a foyer/kitchen/dining room
and a living/bedroom. There was just enough room to roll out three
futons to sleep in, with all of the furniture placed in the other room.
We put the bedding away every morning to reconvert the room into a living
space. (BTW, the only heat source is a kerosene heater for use during
the day. At night it gets chilly - I measure 45F the first night!)
We walked around Yuki quite a bit (I even went running twice!). There
are temples everywhere, and many small farms,
but other than that it's pretty much a quiet rural town. We got to
meet some locals too - a couple of Derek's friends
had dinner with us a few times.
I took a couple of side trips from Yuki to the towns of Nikko and Mashiko.
Nikko is basically temple-city.
There are five or six main attractions here, besides what looks like some
decent hiking in the summer. This is where I o.d.'ed on temple for
the rest of the time in Japan. I will spare you the endless soaring
roof shots, but there was a nice bridge
there. Mashiko is a pottery village - there are maybe a hundred kilns,
stores and galleries there, most of them along the main route. I
was partly interested because I just finished a ceramics class at the DeCordova
School before my trip. Right smack dab in the middle of town
is the mother of all pottery stores - a veritable Pottery-Mart. Marking
this great landmark is an enormous 25 foot ceramic bear
- go figger. Here you can get almost anything you can imagine, though
most of the stuff is generic grade. You're better off in the small
galleries for fancy stuff.
Nagano
The Olympics were cool - we saw four events:
-
Snowboarding half-pipe
-
Men's hockey: US vs. Sweden
-
Women's hockey: US vs. Canada
-
Short track speed skating
In general it was pretty crowded, but not too bad. We commuted into
Nagano Station from Yuki for each event -
about 3 hours each way. As a result we actually didn't spend load
of time hanging around - just a few hours of walking
around here and there. The weather unfortunately was mostly rainy
in Nagano - which meant lots of snow in the mountains. There was
one incredibly mobbed tent of official
souvenirs, but other than that the merchandising was pretty low key (except
for the pin-heads!). I was actually surprised how uncommercialized
it was - I'm sure it would be completely different in the States.
Of course we found a way to get online, courtesy
the Kodak tent. We even managed to crash the Canada
House - very cool space where there were always tons of Canucks hanging
out. I think there was a USA House, but it was for athletes only.
Meanwhile the Russian House was right over an international beer pub.
Doesn't that say it all?
Tokyo
Tokyo is a big city, like many other cities, but there are a lot of cool
places for all of those hard workers to blow off some steam. Plenty
of large video arcades, too many noisy Pachinko parlours (akin to slot
machines), nightclubs, coffee shops, movie theaters, and various seedy
establishments. The Shibuya area has a particularly high concentration
of all of these. Here we got to sleep in a tube
- otherwise known as a capsule hotel. These are basically bunk-sized
pods with just enough room for a bed (and a tv hanging from the ceiling).
They're mostly crash pads for those poor Japanese workers that don't make
it home after partying with the boss. They can just crawl out from
their tube and zip back to their waiting jobs.
We spent a day in the city with Derek's friend Miho.
She took us around to the Sony building, where we checked out their current
line up (and also hacked our way onto the net). We also visited the
Akihabara area, which is the electronics district. I was pretty much
floored with all of the cool gear they have for sale. They seem to
be about a generation or two ahead of us in everything: portable phones
so small they look like toys; MD player/recorders just big enough to fit
a disc (like a CD, but smaller and recordable); laptop computers half the
size of those in the US. No need to doubt where the trade deficit
comes from.
We also stayed up all night in Tokyo - twice! Once we hit a nightclub,
which got swinging around 3am. When we left at 5, we found a Denny's
to hang out at until the trains started running. The second time
was the night before we left Japan - we went into the city to wait for
a connecting train the next morning, and killed time walking around, hanging
out in a coffee shop, then going
bowling at 4am!
Recommended Reading:
If you're headed out this way, you might want to check out the following: