Here are some work outs that we have been using over the last number of years. Some of these are also offered in word document form, the rest are in HTML. Disclaimer: Avoid injury, listen to your body :)
Current Training Program | Mental Notes | Speed Program
Here are some notes that I have regarding training. It has been compiled from numerous climbing magazines, books and other useful advice from friends. I hope it can help you as much as it has helped me!
Word - Formatted Documents:
| Metral Training / Notes | mental_training.doc |
| Training Program 2000 (week 1 and general info) | training_1_2000.doc |
Training Program - Week 4 (October 2 - ) Local Edurance (last week ! We will be hitting power in the next week)
|
Monday |
Tuesday |
Wednesday |
Thursday |
Friday |
Saturday |
Sunday |
| Pasig | Planet Rock | Rest | Tandang Sora | Rest | Tandang Sora | Montalban, etc |
|
3 routes (climb each 2 times) - with ok handholds, but use only the smallest foot holds) 8 walls climb-up and climb-down (different walls)
20 minute Traverse |
7 Easy to moderate routes (ideally ones that you have not done before - try to visualise the moves prior to executing them) Light bouldering |
Areo - again.
streching and general contiioning work out (inlude wrist curls, pronators) |
10 Easy routes 20 minutes traverse (promise one of the last endurance work outs) |
Milage agin is key (Boggie wall, Shashimi-Wasabe, etc.) | ||
| Perf Day | Skill Day | Skill Day | Skill Day |
Training Program – Week 3 (Sept 25-)
Focus of this week will be increasing climbing mileage, while not focusing on performance, rather on skill practice.
|
Monday |
Tuesday |
Wednesday |
Thursday |
Friday |
Saturday |
Sunday |
|
1 x 20 min of high steps, flagging, backstep. climb down 1x 20 min one-handed climbing, climb down 1x 20 min travers |
4 routes on-sight level (performance day) rest Bouldering
|
rest |
Run, Swim, Bike or Dance (30 min aerobic) 3 sets of reverse wrist curls, hand pronators, pull-ups, push-ups, abs |
Rest |
2 x 5 routes, 2 to 3 grades below on sight level. Climb them fast, without becoming sloppy. The use of a laser pointer may be good for this stage. |
Outdoor climb, bike or surf |
|
Quietly, fluidly and precisely |
figure out the route and the sequence that you will use before climbing! |
Avoid rests and focus on climbing through sections that are a bit tough. |
Mileage is key. Forget trying to do redpoints of hard routes at this stage – climb as much as possible on varied terrain |
Workout level should be 40 to 70 percent, not more. Focus on climbing 60 to 90 minutes continuously without getting a deep pump. During the first 30 minutes of the work out, focus on improving the weakness
Training Program – Week 2
I hope everyone has had a chance to take the evaluation quiz from the E. Horst book. If you have not, copies are available from me. Michelle has taken the liberty of killing all of our abs (what is left of them) and turning us into aching blobs.
Focus of this week will be increasing climbing mileage, while not focusing on performance, rather on skill practice.
|
Monday |
Tuesday |
Wednesday |
Thursday |
Friday |
Saturday |
Sunday |
|
3 x 20 min sets of laps / multi wall / traverse sessions |
10 routes, 1 to 2 grades below on site level, and down climb on any holds |
rest |
Run, Swim, Bike or Dance (30 min aerobic) |
Rest |
2 x 5 routes, 2 to 3 grades below on sight level. Climb them fast, without becoming sloppy. |
Outdoor climb, bike or surf |
|
Quietly, fluidly and precisely |
figure out the route and the sequence that you will use before climbing! |
Avoid rests and focus on climbing through sections that are a bit tough. |
Mileage is key. Forget trying to do redpoints of hard routes at this stage – climb as much as possible on varied terrain |
|||
Workout level should be 40 to 70 percent, not more. Focus on climbing 60 to 90 minutes continuously without getting a deep pump. During the first 30 minutes of the work out, focus on improving the weakness you have (rock over, dyno movement, drop knee, etc – look at the guide in the first taining program guide).
Do not forget to get quality rest (sleep) and take your dinner (high in protein) within 30 minutes of the end of your work out.
"Everything is possible with the right frame of mind. Can I burden you with some advice? If your feet are in the wrong spot, you won’t do the move."
"Greatness and excellence don’t always ride with fame, there is no damn money in this sport and if your feet are wrong, you won’t do the move."